RMweb Premium TheQ Posted June 24, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 24, 2015 Just bought one in my local newspaper shop this is the only part piece that I've ever seen get anywhere near its conclusion in shop. This is additional to my subscription copy as it will be converted to county of wilts to park some where on the layout. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) image.jpgThe county which appears to be copy of Dapol...Hornby...anyway my new GBL has Hornby 8f firebox of margate origin grafted on this afternoon as suggested by Tim shakleton in his book improving plastic body locos..as can be seen lot of work still to be done, but I thought would give it a trial fit...image.jpg Could you have used the GBL 8f body instead? Edited June 24, 2015 by darrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest spet0114 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Could you have used the GBL 8f body instead? That's already been added to the J39's cylinders and City of Truro's drivers to make a representation of a Lynton and Barnstaple loco... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Could you have used the GBL 8f body instead?hi Darren certainly could use the GBL 8f....better version though than the Margate one I used which had that little box in front of the smoke box. If doing this again...and no I won't be using my GBL one...saving that to see how the Lyndon and Barnstable conversion works out....anyway I would use the whole of boiler from behind smoke box to the firebox...removing dome and adding the two safety valve. The mud hole covers on both need to be removed and replaced in line where the county's were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 (edited) Hi all, I have a question for all you painters out there. Is it better to use a matt paint with satin varnish or a satin paint with a matt varnish to get a realistic look. I have always used a satin paint, But then again most of my loco's are black. I want to repaint my H-D Duchess of Athol. It have become weary over the length of it's life. Also what paint colour would you recommend as a good representation of LMS Crimson Lake and what colour for the boiler lining.. Thanks Edited June 25, 2015 by cypherman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Usually a gloss to help decals adhere without showing the backing layer, and then a blow over of spray matt varnish. I have found Humbrol to be OK. The Bradford Club useful data site says that Ford Damask Red is a good match for crimson lake, or else Precision Paints, brushed or airbrushed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Hi Smiffy, Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 And the lining is yellow-black-yellow I believe (I know very little about the LMS) which Fox Transfers make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 If it's LMS non streamlined 6230 - 6234 then they were Crimson Lake with gold lining bordered with fine red lines, with serif lettering and numbering in gold leaf with vermillion shading. Handrails and other details were chrome plated as were the nameplates, which had a black background. They were repainted black during the war and were never repainted red apart from some in BR days, where the livery history becomes complicated. Type LMS Coronation Class into Google and go to the Wikipedia page for full details. It is correct as all the information is the same as in the David Jenkinson and Bob Essery books. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Using an 8F to make a County? It'll never catch on. Oh wait, isn't that what they've done in real life? Good idea by the way. I picked up a couple of the Margate 8F bodies when someone was selling them on Ebay for buttons (about £2 each). Maybe worth a look on there if anyone is planning on detailing a County. Jason 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 It was either use the 8f or craft a brass version as Tim does in his book..soldering brass around formers...just like the late guy Williams showed in his scratch building books...Hornby plastic won that challenge...sorry Darrel for misspelling your name...iPad predictive text and not checking before post...it should also read GWR valve...bonnet...no two 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 The Dublo 6231 is only correct for the war period. She was fitted with a double chimney in 1940 and received smoke deflectors in 1946, but acquired a streamlined tender in 1945 (from 6247). I seem to recall reading somewhere that she was painted black in 1944, but don't quote me on that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Ordered British railways short double chimney and markits washout plugs...plus name county of Warwick...my home county before exile out here in the wilds of the Black Country...once Worcestershire...ordered from a very nice man at 247 developments...all I need now is a chassis ...pondering .........looking at my now discarded 8f cab...careful use of my razor saw...might just might,cut out the front windows and transplant in the GBL Kings cab...replacing those misshapen oddities....quick smelling salts over there for any readers of a western persuasion. Will report in due course on the health of this particular patient.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 (edited) Elsewhere, on the Western Front, other little problems have started to surface, much to my irritation: 1) The idiosyncratic placement of the two remaining internal bulkheads means that gluing in a reinforcement patch to join the cab roof to the central roof section would still leave a weak spot. This means having to create slots in the bulkheads so that the patch can be divided to fork through it. 2) To fill in the gap between the repositioned cab roofs and the rest means using plenty of plastic strip solvent-welded in, and then filed / sanded to match the curve of the roof cross-section. Model filler won't hold the joins on its own. 3) The roof cover plates (all of them) are a touch too broad, which has a knock-on effect on the cooler group grilles (themselves too long). There should be a noticeable gap between the edge of the cover plates and the top line of the cooler group grilles. 4) There must be a quicker way of filing down the Heljan mazak casting...... Edited June 26, 2015 by Horsetan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KalKat Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 4) There must be a quicker way of filing down the Heljan mazak casting...... ................ an angle grinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Mr Jekyll and Mr Hyde...one unaltered one with a malign midland influence grafted in ....a 8f cab window...such refinements as cab brass beading to be added 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 That's an improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) Hi all, I have had a bit of a disaster here and need some help. I have several original Riverossi articulated engines. The Big Boy I have was in it's original box with the foam packing it came in. I inspected these engines yesterday and have found that the foam has degraded and in so doing damaged one side of the engine. It looks like it has lightly acid etched part of the body and valve gear. Other than having to buy expensive and possibly impossible to get spares is there a way to clean this up and repair the damage, Especially to the valve gear. Any help would be most welcome as these engines are originals from the late 60's/early 70's. The other 2 a Cab Forward and a Norfolk and Western Mallet are in plastic line boxes so have fortunately not been effected. They were all boxed and mint condition so you can understand I am somewhat miffed about this. Edited June 27, 2015 by cypherman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Dear cypherman, I too have had similar disasters....dust can have a corrosive effect over time....water and my book collection...may I suggest posting a photo on site here,,,,not to advertise your misfortune but rather to allow our fellow modellers to make an accurate assessment before any suggestions as to remedy. In the meantime please accept our support...I was going to say sympathies...might be felt by some to be going over the top...but every modeller dreads seeing one of their models damaged by whatever cause. Best wishes Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Plastic foam needs to be insulated from models with a layer of acid-free tissue or polythene sheet* (over time it reacts with other materials). As to making good it might be possible to have the valve gear replated, but the plastic body is another matter. The Rivarossi models are still manufactured for the American market, but whether spares are available I don't know - they would be expensive! Fine wire wool will smooth off slight imperfections, but it depends on the extent of the damage. *I must check that I have eliminated all mine! (I used to use it as a divider). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf27 Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I done a bit of tinkering with the Western, not on the epic scale that Horsetan has been doing, just a bit of experimenting really. I have cut the front off and reduced the length a bit but I'm still not sure. it all a bit temorary at the moment S2380005 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr S2380001 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr cheers Shane 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) I see what you did there. You went the other way, Shane! Actually, it's quite a clever optical illusion, even though what you are doing is - in effect - making an incorrect model more "wrong". I wouldn't describe my version as "epic". Epic to me would be scratchbuilding the whole thing out of plasticard and sticking it on a Dapol chassis with all the bells and whistles. All I did was look at the GBL clone and realise that it had some possibilities. Having the 21st century Dapol effort alongside helped show up the flaws and - even more crucially - reveal the places where corrections could be made. The real breakthrough for me was looking at "46256"'s method of stretching the roof, and realising that his very clever dodge would automatically shift the cover patch on top into the right position. That also had the side benefit of putting the outer extremities of the roof cowls into more or less the correct spot, which should mean that we can concentrate on flattening the arc before bringing the cowl further forward. "46256" used filler; I used plastic strip as it's much easier to solvent-weld the latter to plastic and give the thing a bit of structural strength. The whole cab - including the side doors - could be shunted forward slightly and repeating this at the other end brings the whole model closer to the correct length and - even more importantly - means it can slip over a Heljan chassis, even though the mazak casting does need quite a bit of filing down on top. Edited June 29, 2015 by Horsetan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf27 Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Also had a tinker with the Brit. Swapped the valve gear for the 9f's and used the front bogie from a Mainline Patriot with new wheels. I'm looking at the feasibilty of using the 9F cab and front section of the running plate. S2380007 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr S2380006 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr cheers Shane 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I had a rummage in my plastics drawer, and came up with a length of U-channel. It occurred to me that this was almost the right width to bridge the gap, and form a fill-in roof section, so after a bit of trial-and-error I cut two short lengths which, when curved, would match the curve of the roof section. The sides of the "U" channel were shaved off, leaving a plain strip: Trimming a bit off the width of the strip made it easier to form a curve, which could then be solvent-welded to - in this case - the existing cab roof: I think I got lucky..... 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) Hi all, I have had a bit of a disaster here and need some help. I have several original Riverossi articulated engines. The Big Boy I have was in it's original box with the foam packing it came in. I inspected these engines yesterday and have found that the foam has degraded and in so doing damaged one side of the engine. It looks like it has lightly acid etched part of the body and valve gear. Other than having to buy expensive and possibly impossible to get spares is there a way to clean this up and repair the damage, Especially to the valve gear. Any help would be most welcome as these engines are originals from the late 60's/early 70's. The other 2 a Cab Forward and a Norfolk and Western Mallet are in plastic line boxes so have fortunately not been effected. They were all boxed and mint condition so you can understand I am somewhat miffed about this. It is worth pointing out that Tri-ang and Tri-ang Hornby also used foam packing in the 1960s. It does exactly the same to Margate Models. Tri-ang also used foam packing pieces in some loco tenders (to hold the weight down to the chassis) the R.759 Hall, and the "Flying Scotsman" models come to mind. These can break down, and the "bits" leak out of the holes in the chassis base and get everywhere...corroding anything they touch! Edited June 27, 2015 by Sarahagain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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