Davids Workbench

[LNWR lives on]

So wood was cut and folding ensued on the main floor section in the vice with the three bearing frames following quickly behind

 

 

One ‘annoyance’ was that an instruction reads solder 10BA bolt to the centre floor holes, so I soldered the two bolts into the floor thinking they looked long but must be a reason later on, to find another instruction a few steps on saying solder two 6mm 10BA bolts into the floor for bearing units. So those bolts insitu now will have to be replaced or cut down later on. The units were assembled together as per instructions and with the coach body dry fitted on top this is where we are at with Hornby wheels acting as donors for now

 

 

Brake gear and footboards are next jobs to be carried out though some research is required to determine if full or short lower footboard is the correct version to fit. Gas cylinders will be omitted as I just dont think you will see enough of them once the footboards and brake detail is added.

 

If I am going to do more etched kits (Which if this coach works well will be another 5 of these minimum as well as anything else) then I think an investment in a smooth jawed vice and/or a small folding machine would be a very good idea.

 

[Jol Wilkinson]

David,

 

thanks for pointing that out, the instructions have been amended and sent to LRM.

 

When you have finished the underfame, cut of the unwanted bit of the bolts with a side or end cutter, that'll help trap the nut. When I built the test etches and wrote the instruction I just used 6mm bolts I had to hand and overlooked what JR at LRM would probably have in stock.

 

Jol

[LNWR lives on]

Jol,

 

No worries. I am really enjoying building the under-frame, its a much different challenge to white metal but also more forgiving with the soldering iron as well. Its not the best build you will ever see featured on RMWeb (referring to my workmanship, not the kit) but its going together and will be useable

 

Definitely making me think that I could tackle a etched loco kit 

 

David

[LNWR lives on]

So I got up a nice head of steam when I got home from work and started adding the finer details of the brake shoes and wire, unplugged the soldering iron to head downstairs for tea and when I went back up afterwards the soldering iron is not working, have changed the 3A fuse and checked the plug socket is working but no go

 

Most unimpressed as was really making some progress and now will have to wait until I buy a new iron. I had been thinking about buying a better quality iron (I believe Antex 25W seem to be the popular choice) as the one which has gone kaput is only a work-zone one but wasn't quite ready to spend as yet

 

So some details were instead added to the POW, underframe was put away safe in a box and the desk got a bit of a tidy up, so no photos to show tonight

[Brassey]

It looks like your POW has no flanges on the centre drivers. Is there a reason for that?

[LNWR lives on]

Brassey,

 

The POW is utilising a Hornby/Triang B12 chassis, of which this is one of the later versions and that's why it has flangeless centre wheels. The older version I have to go under a second GEM kit as an Experiment also has flangeless centres. I would guess that they fitted flangeless wheels to allow the B12 to go around the 1st/2nd radius set track curves

 

David

[Brassey]

OK.  I know some of the 0-8-0's had no flanges on a pair of centre drivers; I thought that I'd missed something on the Experiments.  I too have one of these to build.  Peter

[LNWR lives on]

Peter,

 

The real life versions did have centre wheel flanges, and I think (Check before you spend!) if you utilise the modern brass chassis from the current GEM owner you can fit flanged centre wheels as it has compensation/movement to allow for it. At the moment my intentions is to get as many locos running as possible, and go back later when I have more time and money to improve/replace the older chassis that I am currently utilising.

 

Having had a good think the Experiment will be my next loco build while the lessons learnt from the POW are fresh in my mind.

 

David

[LNWR lives on]

So £22 later I am back in business with a Maplin temperature controlled iron, which is taking a bit of getting used to but is definitely a nice little iron. The Underframe has progressed; a little messier than I would like but I think that is down to 1, the tip holding a different amount of solder than the previous iron and 2, the flux I am using is for white metal and could do with being a bit tougher/thicker for the nickel silver.

 

 

Managed to sort our a few pain jobs such as small details and filling joints on the POW as well as the details to the coach chassis so no photos to show of yesterdays progress

[Brassey]

Hi David

 

Peter,

 

The real life versions did have centre wheel flanges, 

 

My kit is Brassmasters etched brass and I already have the wheels (Sharman's), I just wanted to make sure that I had not missed something with the flanges as all my drivers have them on.  I have a set of wheels for my LRM C Class from Alan Gibson including a pair in a flangless version all in the correct H spoke profile.  For me the C class 0-8-0 will be ahead of the Experiment though I have to make sure both will run round my curves; not sure which will be the most troublesome.

 

In the meantime I might have a go at an LRM underframe kit inspired by your thread.  i have a 32' 6 wheel PO vehicle to build.

 

Peter

[LNWR lives on]

Hi Peter,

 

Best of luck with both locomotives, id suspect they may be as bad as each other but i suppose it would depend on your scale and curve radius?

 

The underframe I think is available in 30FT 1 IN and 32FT, so would it be slightly short for your PO van?

 

I would say go for it, if I can manage to get the underframe built to a reasonable standard (I am not near 100% happy with my first go) then pretty much anyone could do it. My Advice would be read the instructions through and have a real good think about the kit before you start building as I think when I start a second one I will be doing things a little different from the instructions, such as not soldeing the bolts in as early as it then means it rocks while working on a flat surface. I would probably also add some of the details and smaller parts in a different order.

 

David

[LNWR lives on]

GTF tender was painted yesterday, livery is LNWR wartime plain black so no lining to be applied, coal needs adding but what do people think? The front vents were a casualty of frame alterations and didnt glue as well as I liked so will have to be masked with coal and tools

 

 

Coach chassis was finished as far as I am taking this one, details omitted were something on the springs and also the ribbed footboards on the buffers. I substitued some brass buffers for the white metal ones supplied.

 

 

I am content with the chassis, there are a few steps I would do a little differently to the instructions as well as needing to improve the cleanliness and quality of my workmanship but overall I dont think its a bad first attempt at an etched kit

 

 

 

[LNWR lives on]

GTF has been though the paintshop now and is as below

 

 

Name and number plates to be attached once dug out of a box and then Satin varnish applied when I get some. Serious thought is being given to changing the motor from an X04 to something as powerful but smaller and less encroaching on the cab.

 

Prince of Wales has also progressed through the paint shop though it needs the front buffer beam cleaning up and changing to red, but pretty much also finished.

 

 

Both tenders need coal and tools, POW needs a driver and fireman and two locos pretty much complete

 

 

[Brassey]

Both look very well David.  Sorry that your flanges have taken a bashing again on the LNWRS Forum - guess it was I who started that one.

 

Look forward to a lined version sometime soon.

 

Cheers

 

Peter

[LNWR lives on]

Peter,

 

Don't worry about it, if the wheel flanges are the biggest problem I have then I am quite happy to be honest. That's only something small which can be corrected, whereas if the paint job was junk then that would be a lot worse. I took a worse bashing on the Crewe tank words I uttered....

 

Lined, rivet detail and also improved smokebox door I think are the next refinements. Also thinking there are more details I could add so a bit more research per loco before build I think will be carried out in future

 

Cheers

 

David

[DLT]

Hi David,

I've only just come accross this thread, some lovely modelling to be seen.  I'm particularly liking what you are doing with the vintage whitemetal kits.

All the best,

Dave.T

Edited September 9, 2014 by DLT

[LNWR lives on]

Dave,

 

Thank you for the kind words, but my work is nothing compared to yours. I am hoping to improve the modelling further by adding more detail on the next locos

 

Currently making a PC LNWR Dia 126 Brake First coach up, learning a few lessons of should have painted bits before fitting them as per the instructions.

 

Cheers

 

David

[LNWR lives on]

So after a re-organisation of the works prompted by house moving forcing cessation of modelling I am back to it at last. The LNWR Dia126 1^st Tri-composite Coach has been built and last night one side was lettered and vents were attached. Apologies for the photo quality, first phot taken in the new room and think I need to change the lampshade etc

 

 

 

Much happier with the numbering this time as it is all straighter, a touch off centre here and there but overall much better than the D216 and Full Brake. Vents are better too

One thing that does concern me is the battery boxes look as though they are a little low slung now completed…..

 

 

 

[LNWR lives on]

While being away from home on a CAD course and stuck in a hotel for 2 nights I did manage to get something done. 6 LNWR Ratio wagons bodies built, brass bearings drilled in. Brake gear to be added and join the paint queue.

[LNWR lives on]

Brake gear was put onto the ratio wagons last night, the D16 brake van received its second coat of paint and the buffers were glued to the Dia126 coach so nothing much to show there

 

While other things are drying One Plank Dia103 which were the replacement wagons for the Diagram 1’s, of which a ratio version is waiting to be built received lettering to one side as a tester to see how it took to the paint. The LNWR and diamonds applied well but the tare weight was more tricky as one of the bolts on the beam got in the way.

 

 

On examination of more photos the tare weight was put further to the right and also in some cases on the planking so may well be an option to move it in future to a place easier to apply.

 

The internal planking is currently in undercoat grey, but needs to be more of a timber colour, does anyone have any recommendations of a suitable paint colour which can be applied by brush please?

 

[Spitfire2865]

That wagon is looking very nice. I have a David Geen kit of the diag103 sitting on my desk.

For inside, check your other topic. I replied and if you want more help, I have either my workbench thread or Nelson Jacksons.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/78266-painting-realistic-wood-second-attempt-on-pg2/

[LNWR lives on]

Spitfire,

Thank you for your reply, I have read the replies on the question thread and prepared a shopping list of paints for the next time I get near a model shop which will likely be the weekend coming. I will be giving the techniques a go and will publish the results on here, fingers crossed good ones, and if it doesn’t work out well I suppose there are always tarpaulins!!!!!

Cheers

David

[LNWR lives on]

D16 brake van is now complete bar the chimney needs a touch of white paint, which needs to be acquired before I can do this. The roof will then get a light grey wash over and I need to find some suitable lamps as well.

 

 

As a build I feel its ok but it was very much a lesson in when to and when not to solder, I attempted to solder a few bits where superglue would have been a much better choice, but you live and learn. The roof is not ideal either as it seems to have drooped a little somehow.  If you wish to see one of these much better built head over to Niles Workbench Thread where he has produced this and the NLR version.

 

 

[LNWR lives on]

Diagram 33 6 ton roof door van has now been completed ready for the paint shop. This was one of 3 D&S kits bought as half built at ExpoEm North. The sides were straightened out a touch and an attempt was made to remove and straighten the buffers but abandoned as they would not budge so I will have to live with them.

 

 

After a couple of botched attempts the roof is finally on, the first worked well but was ruined by overweighting while the second was even worse. The plasticard I have is a bit thin, so a frame was built up underneath using coffee stirring sticks from a well-known outlet to make the frame which the card was then glued to, and the details added. The last remaining thing to do is to glue a couple of bracing strips across the van about half way up to stop the sides being pushed in by handling once painted.

 

[LNWR lives on]

Another of the three kits picked up at ExpoEm was a D19 Butter Van D&S kit which fell to pieces on handling. It seems to have been soldered together so a lot of work has been undertaken in cleaning up the castings to a point where it can be soldered up again hopefully more firmly. 

 

 

Livery choice with this will be a subject of musing/modellers licence as they were repainted later in life (around 1911 onwards) to the standard wagon livery than the White Livery with black lettering they were originally out shopped in which is more attractive.