Most realistic flat calm water surface for a 3ft wide river?

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

Aft'noon all,

 

It looks like the toughened, smoked glass route for the broad river surface on TG has been scuppered due to toughened glass automatically coming with chamfered edges. I've ordered some Woodland Scenics 'Realistic water' to experiment with as a possible alternative but would appreciate a couple of other products to test. 

 

Is anyone aware of any others?

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Edited April 17, 2013 by Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71

[Miss Prism]

Perspex, or one of the newer acrylics? (Heaven knows where you might get a sheet that size, though.)

[Madcaravanner]

WHY ? does your glass have to have it's edges treating so that they are visible 

I am not familiar with your layout yet but I would be hiding the edges at least 2-5 cm under the scenics so any edge is safely hidden 

I know our local glass merchant will ask IF you need the edges or not although Toughened glass is rather sharper than most normal glass edges

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

Gray,

 

The broad river will be 3ft wide and 15ft feet long approx, crossing around half a dozen base frame joints. This means that there will be numerous joins in the river surface.

 

Your local glass merchant would need to contact the same 3 suppliers as mine for toughened glass and is likely to get the same response.

 

Tor Giffard...the layout is in the Layouts section of this site.

 

Dave   

Edited April 17, 2013 by Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

Mickey,

 

I'm wary of such as glue because it sets hard and brittle....flex in the river frames will be minimal but a sharp crack as the baseframes are transported, suggesting that the glue had fractured, would be difficult to rectify. If the 'Realistic Water' sets in a similar manner then I'll have to look for another option. 

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

Perspex or acrylic is an option MP but I don't want plastic that looks like plastic. If the Realistic water isn't suitable then I'll be visiting plastic stockists looking for plastic that looks like glass. 

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Edited April 17, 2013 by Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71

[Happy Hippo]

Gordon Gravett uses perspex painted on the underside with a river bottom colouring. The top is then coated with something:D, I can't find the MRJ that has the brief description of it.

 

(MRJ 216(?) With the 7mm scale West Country on the front cover).

 

But the end result is excellent.

 

When I first saw the photo I thought it was a real barge not a model

 

hth

 

Regards

 

Richard

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

Thank you Richard...I'll investigate.

 

Relevant back issue of MRJ located and ordered.

 

ATB

 

Dave

Edited April 17, 2013 by Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

For plastic that looks like glass, or rather water, you need a product of similar refractive index. Either Perspex (Lucite, Plexiglass etc.) or Polycarbonate. The latter will I think do better at resisting scratches. All those joins will destroy the effect though, unless they can be concealed. If your ally frame construction technique is up to the precision requirement of bring each join into close enough contact for capillary attraction (as well as ensuring the top surfaces are all in the same plane*), a liquid of near refractive index to the polymer may just near 'disappear' them. Needs to be inert with respect to the chosen polymer, paints etc. also slow to evaporate. Glycerine (pure glycerol) is one that comes to mind for perspex, 'descratches' the surface almost perfectly.

 

* In truth, the 'water' surface should really be modelled as a section of a sphere...

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

....excellent 34th...gives me an informed route forward with the plastics option.

 

Many thanks

 

Dave

[Andy Y]

I think you'll probably do OK with the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water Dave. Here's a shot showing the canal on BCB which used that as a top surface:

 

 

Tips:

Make sure the surface it's applied to is sealed with PVA.

Make sure you 'stop' the edges as it'll flow everywhere no matter what it looks like when poured.

Pour the product on the whole board's length of river in one go, don't try to do it in sections.

If the watercourse has any degree of fall to it make sure you've levelled the watercourse rather than the board otherwise you'll end up with a big puddle at the end of a dry river.

 

 

 

 

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

.....thanks Andy....I will be looking to create a peaty, brownish tinted, clear result so will probably have to mix in a  colour or else underlie a clear coat with similar.  

 

How brittle would you grade the 'set' water?

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Edited April 17, 2013 by Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71

[Andy Y]

Thankfully I've not tried bending it Dave but I'd say it's around the hardness of thickly applied but completely set PVA. I'd go for using it neat over the peaty colouring beneath.

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

....I've got a few techniques to experiment with now...thanks Andy. 

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[N15class]

Aft'noon all,

 

It looks like the toughened, smoked glass route for the broad river surface on TG has been scuppered due to toughened glass automatically coming with chamfered edges. I've ordered some Woodland Scenics 'Realistic water' to experiment with as a possible alternative but would appreciate a couple of other products to test. 

 

Is anyone aware of any others?

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Toughened glass has polished edges to stop it shattering. This generally leaves the edges rounded not square. But it does not need chamfered edges.

[ozzyo]

In the old days we just used to use a sheet of hard board painted to look like the bottom of the "river" and apply lots of coats yacht varnish the more the better. But you will always end up with dust on any "water" surface that can spoil the effect. The baseboard joins will always show unless you have a bridge across each join.

 

One thing that you could think of is to just model the bank so that you don't have a large expanse of water.

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. off to have a look at your layout thread.    

[gwrrob]

Tips:

Make sure the surface it's applied to is sealed with PVA.

Make sure you 'stop' the edges as it'll flow everywhere no matter what it looks like when poured.

Pour the product on the whole board's length of river in one go, don't try to do it in sections.

If the watercourse has any degree of fall to it make sure you've levelled the watercourse rather than the board otherwise you'll end up with a big puddle at the end of a dry river.

 

What would you use to 'stop' the edges please Andy ?

[Andy Y]

What would you use to 'stop' the edges please Andy ?

Well it can't be screwed so the answer must be duct tape.