Jump to content
 

LNER D20 - Another kit from Arthur Kimber


Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium

The D20 is progressing. I have decided that this and others will have the cosmetic springs as part of the frames. This will no doubt please the EM and OO brigades but of course the wheelsets will be trapped in the frames once the wheels are mounted on their axles. The driving wheels ride on beams and use the usual style hornblocks. The bogie, being independently compensated takes a proportion of the loco weight and need not be sprung unless you decide to build the chassis as rigid.

 

I still have to finish off the Tennant 2-4-0 and I will make a strong effort to get the B15 (NER S2) finished off. The Worsdell cab J77 will probably follow that. I doesn't require much more work and I have all the casting apart from the tank vents, Springs and sandboxes.

 

ArthurK

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Mr Meginson, where are you, we need an update!

 

Mick,

 

Having moved to Scarborough, three months ago - to an old Victorian house - there has been much to do in the house. Most of that is now done so I'll be returning to the loco building ere long. This house has a large attic so I'm also in the process of setting up the railway (Hessle Haven) up there, while I think about the next section; the section from the shipyard bridge going east towards Hull.

 

Of course, when the sun shines - as it is now - then all of this model building goes by the board and I spend my time walking by the sea, sketching and drawing, or just sitting in the sun by the beach hut (they call them chalets here) which my lady partner part owns.

 

Oh it's a hard life here in Scarborough!

 

Cheers

 

Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • RMweb Premium

Since his move to Scarborough I think he has gone into hibernation! The last I heard he was taking the air on the prom!

 

I am currently waiting for what I hope will be the production etches for the D20. I hope that then things will come to fruition in the New Year. I still need a few castings but I have most of the ones that I need.

 

The loco suspension will use compensation. I found it nigh on impossible to find space for a CSB support behind the rear driving wheels but builders can try that if they wish. Then they can tell me how they did it. I find that with the centre of gravity ahead of the beam pivot there is a proportion of the loco weight on the bogie and since this in itself a fully compensated unit good road holding is assured.

 

This will be coupled to a revised 3940 gallon tender. This will have the lifting shackles as a fold-ups from the main body and will help to locate the tank top overlay. The underframe will still use a CSB but with improved support at the front and rear. it can be built as a rigid unit if preferred. The artwork for this will be sent off in the next few days.

 

The loco underframe locates through the loco drawbar and has a loop for tender coupling thus dispensing with that unsightly nut in the cab. The tender coupling will be simply 'hook' from 1mm wire.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 I find that with the centre of gravity ahead of the beam pivot there is a proportion of the loco weight on the bogie and since this in itself a fully compensated unit good road holding is assured.

 

I have used this system on my D49 - white metal (DJH?) body on Comet chassis - and, yes, it holds the road well but at the expense of low adhesive weight and hence poor haulage capacity. The problem on my loco is that the electric motor is just where I need to put ballast weight! I am thinking of putting the motor in the tender and using cardan shaft drive. Have you thought of this, Arthur?

 

Ian

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I have used this system on my D49 - white metal (DJH?) body on Comet chassis - and, yes, it holds the road well but at the expense of low adhesive weight and hence poor haulage capacity. The problem on my loco is that the electric motor is just where I need to put ballast weight! I am thinking of putting the motor in the tender and using cardan shaft drive. Have you thought of this, Arthur?

 

Ian

I used this system on my Chiver's D20 and since this is white metal it doesn't have too much of a problem with adhesion. The bogie carries in the order of 25% of the loco weight but as a precaution the front two axles of the tender are carried on a light spring enabling a proportion of the tender weight to be carried by the loco. If you read the earlier posts by Mike you will note that he has added lead inside the splasher sides. More lead can be added to the cab and the chassis. The firebox and ashpan can have lead added.

 

Of course putting the motor in the tender means that a lot of weight can be added where it is most needed but I have always fought shy of the added complication. Perhaps I should design a tailor made solution for a tender drive. All of my tenders are of similar construction.

 

ArthurK

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Ah but where will you be able to put the speaker if you do that?

There was enough weight in the cast tender body without needing to fill it with lead so there is still an empty space in there. Personally I prefer silent running! Now I am going to get a lot of flak!!!!!

 

ArthurK

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

It seems a long while ago since we started this thread, detailing the build of Arthur's D20 from test etches. In the intervening period, Arthur has concentrated on bringing others of his kits to market. Further research, by Arthur, and the test build have resulted in finding one or two anomolies, which have been corrected, and Arthur has revised his approach on some features of his design, notably the driving wheel springs. Arthur is also planning to offer etches for the inside motion for this kit.

 

This build stopped at the detailing stage and has been re-jigged to correct the most obvious anomolies but I now have almost all of the castings and other parts to complete this build so will press on and finish this, whilst also finishing the test builds of the new J77 kits.

 

Of all the North Eastern locomotives which I've built, now almost a dozen, this prototype, more than any, exemplifies the elegance of Victorian locomotive design.

 

So more anon as I finish this build.

 

Oh and the speculation as to my getting lost on the prom, here in Scarborough (one of the posts above) was just a little premature; I've found my way back to loco building. Mind you, the call of the sea, which I can see from my lounge window, is a clarion call indeed and there are but few days when I don't walk on that place where the land meets the sea.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

post-3150-0-15032000-1412335605_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

What will the inside motion look like?

 

The D20 is more difficult than the 0-6-0s as the are 4 slide bars to each crosshead. These will be supplied as standard with the the basic kit. I will try to represent the lifting links and the expansion links. There will be rudimentary representation of the eccentric rods  and connecting rods. I am not too sure of the crossheads. These woud be better cast, All this would be none operational but quite a lot of bits were visible between the frames as the boiler were quite highly pitched. 

 

Then there are the piston valves which were placed at a downward angle below the cylinders The valve rods for these were visible between the rear bogie wheels. Another hurdle to overcome. The valve rod guides in the motion plate were close together (as in slide valve locos) but the front of these rods took account of the distance between the piston centres.

 

All of this will take some time to develop and I don't expect it to be all finished when the first kits are released. It is possible that I will offer these parts as an add-on to the basic kit.

 

ArthurK

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...