Removed a/c Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Just a thought could you add a couple of straights to make them ovals? Just to get rid of the roundy round appearance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 I've definitely considered it. I'm going to a second hand dealer tomorrow in person, so if I can pick up a couple there, I will. I think it'd work best if I put the straights alongside the beach, so the oval is at a jaunty angle. It'd probably look more natural, and it'd be nice to see the trains running alongside the beach a little longer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjcampbell Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 You might have space for a half-straight, putting the oval "diagonally" is a good idea. How about cutting out the beach/sea section and, when adding the bracing, setting it a little lower (1/2" would do it, 1" if you can). Not only is it more realistic (which I realise is not the priority here!) but it would add a lot visually. Also don't make the tunnel too long, you will need to clean the track and remove derailed trains! Here's something similar I built for my son, much more complex though as the board folds in half to go under the bed! Hills and tunnels to follow. You can read the whole story here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Yes - in reality, the tunnel will be very short. Probably 4-5". Should be able to get your hand in one portal and out the other! Bit of a stumbling block tonight, when I suddenly wondered how I'd get a 4x4 board in a car. Any ideas? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stannyblade Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Two pieces then use the braces to hold it together. That's what I had to do with my sons 6x4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Course - if it doesn't fit in the car - I'll just keep it for myself and buy him some Haribo instead. Should be some more goodies arriving today! Photos later if they arrive! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 So - bracing bought (2 x 1 PSE) and is being glued as we speak. On another note - does anyone know if I'm allowed to change the title of this thread? I feel that I am veering away from the original aim, and would prefer not to have the £50 in the title anymore. It upsets me! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodshaw Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 I think if you edit the first post you can change the title. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Done - thanks. Could anyone show me an example of a layout with a 'cut out' baseboard beneath the scenery/terrain please? I'm considering hacking a big lump out of the middle to reduce the weight, and then simply staple chicken wire over the gap and add scenery. Is this a usual way of doing things? 9mm ply is quite weighty, especially now I've added the 2 x 1 bracing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Here we go - some progress with the bracing! As I expect to cut out much of the board, I think the outer bracing will suffice, particularly with it being 9mm ply and only 4' x 4'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Sorry to throw a spanner in the works, but the bracing would have been stronger 'the other way'. ie thin edge fitted to the ply. The way you have done it will still allow a certain amount of 'flex'. Good luck, Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 I considered both ways, but my concern was that the extra inch may have made all the difference when it came to fitting it in the back of a car near Christmas time! I'm limiting the height of my scenery to 6 inches (not including trees etc. which may be fitted 'on location'), so the total height of the layout is now around 7.5 inches including the baseboard. If worst comes to worst, and it DOES need extra support, a 1 metre length (3 and a bit feet) set me back 80p today. For another couple of quid, I can strengthen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted June 5, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2013 You could always strap the layout to the roof... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted June 5, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2013 Rather than chicken wire, use strips of cardboard (cereal packets), covered in kitchen towel soaked in a pva/water mix - two or three coats of this is quite stong (and a lot lighter !) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Would that also form a base layer for the scenery equivalent to modroc? I've always used chicken wire and/or polystyrene with a modroc topping, but this tends to be heavy. Your method seems much lighter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted June 5, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2013 Yep, it's obviously not as strong if it's leant on, but for supporting greenery it's fine. The more lattice work of card under it, the 'stronger' it is. I first coat it in suitable green shades (tester pots - Dulux are 3 for £1), or brown / grey for earth / path, then add the green stuff. If you know where you intend to plant trees, add a polystyrene block under the surface to take the stems. The hills on my BCbB module were made like this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 Well - the first train ran today on my outer circle! Just waiting for the second radius curves to arrive. As I don't want to rely on power clips (and they look ugly), can anyone tell me the name of the wires which connect the controller to the track? I'll solder them, as I have in the past. Seems like a silly question, but I've always had such a huge amount of this wire, I've never had to buy it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malton Seadog Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 Thanks - I'll write down the details and visit my local DIY shop. Just awaiting the second loop of track, and then I'll be fixing it down, wiring it up and running some test trains. Progressing slowly but surely! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjcampbell Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 At a DIY shop you want the smallest wire they do - probably bell-wire (i.e for doorbells), though even that is likely to be bigger than you really need. Just make sure it is multi-core. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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