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New Heljan 33/0s have arrived


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No. http://www.Heljan.dk/faste_filer/modul.asp?vis=varekatalog&doo=vare&vareid=2624&gruppeid=

The exhaust arrangement is correct for this loco in green livery though the clips shouldn't be there, neither should the two panels under the rad grill.

There was thread on RMWeb 3 where the appropriate loco numbers were more or less sorted out, if my memory is holding up it was D6583-87

HTH

Stu

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The Heljan "As Built" and West Coast Railways 33/0s have arrived in stock

 

These are

 

33/0 D6585 in early BR Green

 

and

 

33025 "Glen Falloch"

33029 "Glen Loy"

 

in West Coast Railways Livery

 

Thanks for the heads up - I missed the green 33/0 last time around and wound up making an idiotic mistake by buying 'Eastleigh' as a substitute - there's something about it that just doesn't fit huh.gif

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No green with no yellow panel Cromptons had the revised exhaust arrangement from new, this is a frequently trotted out urban myth that often pops up. The last one was built in the very early 1960's, the exhaust mod's didn't start until some years later by which time yellow panels and the 33/1 conversions were happening.

 

It's a compromise with the Heljan model that most can live with though!!

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Thanks for that, John. I always assumed that the modification to the exhaust took place at the same time as the cut out was made in the horn cowling but there is a photograph in "British Railways Standard Diesels of the 1960s" by David N. Clough (page 73) which shows a pair of 33s working the Bournemouth Belle (so pre August 1967) and the leading locomotive (in green with no warning panel) does have the cut out cowling. The exhaust ports are the other end and not easily identified, so your post clears the matter up. These modifications must have been done separately. The photographs on the Modelfair site suggest that the profile of the roof has not been corrected either but I agree with you that I am happy with the compromise in the layout.

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No green with no yellow panel Cromptons had the revised exhaust arrangement from new, this is a frequently trotted out urban myth that often pops up. The last one was built in the very early 1960's, the exhaust mod's didn't start until some years later by which time yellow panels and the 33/1 conversions were happening.

 

That was always my impression too, but when it was debated before it appears that a few of the late build 33/0 locos had the 'straight through' exhaust from new. I found a photo of D6585 which appears to confirm this, it's undated, but as the Winchester B4 is in shot, and the leading coach on the train is a Bullied BSK it must be in the early 60s. The general application of this arrangement started with the 33/1 conversions as I recall.

 

Another urban mith is the introduction of the horn cowling cutout. It was always there, but had a small cover over it which usually managed to get 'lost' the first time access was needed. Eventually they got fed up of replacing them at every shopping and just left them off.

 

Chris

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Hi,

That's quite correct Chris, they did exist. If you can get a copy of "The Power of the 33's" then have a look at Plate 39.

Where the Heljan model is compromised is that there are two small panels under the rad grills which shouldn't be there and the roof clips which don't seem to appear before full ellow end versions.

Stu

 

Edit - the loco in the picture is D6583 in plain green so Heljan have done their homework. No-one seems quite sure how many were like this but certainly 83-85 seem certain.

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Where the Heljan model is compromised is that there are two small panels under the rad grills which shouldn't be there and the roof clips which don't seem to appear before full ellow end versions.

Stu

 

Yes, the exhaust mod., roof clips and panels were suppost to be part of the same mod 'package', so you shouldn't find one without the others. (but don't take that as gospel)

 

The only other visible change at that time was to the white vertical pipe which drops down from the bodyside under the rad. grill. That was the exhauster exhaust; the mod was to fit it with a silencer.

 

Chris

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Having researched the subject quite thoroughly I have photographic evidence of D6582-D6585 being built with the revised exhaust arrangement. I believe that D6581 was also modified whilst still green and D6580 was also modified when it was converted to 33/1 or soon after. The modification was carried out as a result of the original recessed silencer unit fracturing, consequently emitting exhaust fumes into no.2 drivers cab and engine room. It has been suggested that D6502's fatal accident which led to it's early demise could have been the result of a similar occurrance. At least D6582 carried a small yellow warning panel according to my photo collection although there may have been another. D6582 was later overhauled at Crewe Works and gained large yellow ends and the loss of the D prefix in the process. Other locos known to have been converted whilst still green are D6553/60/63/66 and 68 and these all received full yellow ends. There may have been more but I haven't seen any photographic evidence of these as yet.

post-4697-12640024267144_thumb.jpg

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I have just received my model of D6585 and can confirm that the body moulding is the same as for the Kernow LE ones. There are two changes to the original model, however:- the couplings and cables have not been pre-fitted (except for those that would not foul the tension-lock couplings) and the newer style shiny wheels have been fitted. These improve the running somewhat and led me to consider retro-fitting my Kernow ones with the Bachmann Mark 1 coach wheels recommended by other members.

 

I managed to get one wheel off an axle easily but the other seems to be fitted without a bush, making it more difficult. Also, when I fitted a Bachmann wheel on the exposed axle-end, it was a very loose fit. Consequently, I have put things back as they were and will wait for the new wheels to become available as a spares item.

 

Dave

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I have just received my model of D6585 and can confirm that the body moulding is the same as for the Kernow LE ones. There are two changes to the original model, however:- the couplings and cables have not been pre-fitted (except for those that would not foul the tension-lock couplings) and the newer style shiny wheels have been fitted. These improve the running somewhat and led me to consider retro-fitting my Kernow ones with the Bachmann Mark 1 coach wheels recommended by other members.

 

I managed to get one wheel off an axle easily but the other seems to be fitted without a bush, making it more difficult. Also, when I fitted a Bachmann wheel on the exposed axle-end, it was a very loose fit. Consequently, I have put things back as they were and will wait for the new wheels to become available as a spares item.

 

Dave

Hi Dave

Patience is a virtue!

Just live with your old wheels for a little longer as I believe new wheelsets complete with axles and gears are on the agenda.

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Hi Dave

Patience is a virtue!

Just live with your old wheels for a little longer as I believe new wheelsets complete with axles and gears are on the agenda.

 

 

Thanks, its kind of you to take the trouble to reply. The next question is how to get the bottom plate off. The 47s have clips along either side of theirs but I cannot see how those on the Crompton are attached.

 

Dave

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Thanks, its kind of you to take the trouble to reply. The next question is how to get the bottom plate off. The 47s have clips along either side of theirs but I cannot see how those on the Crompton are attached.

 

Dave

clips on from the baseplate onto the sides of the bogies located inboard of the two axles. prise the 'tabs' of the baseplate muoldng slightly away from the bogie sides (use a small flat-head screwdriver) and that should release them from the pips moulded into the bogie unit.

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clips on from the baseplate onto the sides of the bogies located inboard of the two axles. prise the 'tabs' of the baseplate muoldng slightly away from the bogie sides (use a small flat-head screwdriver) and that should release them from the pips moulded into the bogie unit.

 

Yep. Found them. Thanks for that - had a bit of a senior moment there. They come more regularly as you age.

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Yep. Found them. Thanks for that - had a bit of a senior moment there. They come more regularly as you age.

 

Could someone please tell me how to fit the headcode numbers,I've removed the body as per the instructions,but the cab moulding appears to be well and truly fixed,I have also tried to prize the glazing out from the front with the end of a modelling knife.

 

Thanks,

 

Pete.

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Could someone please tell me how to fit the headcode numbers,I've removed the body as per the instructions,but the cab moulding appears to be well and truly fixed,I have also tried to prize the glazing out from the front with the end of a modelling knife.

 

Thanks,

 

Pete.

 

DO NOT TRY TO PRIZE THE GLAZING OUT FROM THE FRONT!!!!

 

Do as it says in the instructions and bend a paper clip at one end to form a 90 degree angle. Pop this through the cab moulding where the lighting bars pass through and use it to pop the glazing out from the B/back.

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Could someone please tell me how to fit the headcode numbers,I've removed the body as per the instructions,but the cab moulding appears to be well and truly fixed,I have also tried to prize the glazing out from the front with the end of a modelling knife.

 

Thanks,

 

Pete.

 

I did post some quite detailed instructions on the old site but cannot find them now. Basically, the cab moulding will come out. It has to be levered away from the cab roof with a flat-bladed screwdriver and then gently prised up (taking care that it does not begin to tilt forward once the tab is freed from the slot in the roof - otherwise it will scratch the door window glass). It is useful to remove the perspex strip which carries the side lights as well.

 

It might be possible to avoid this process and push the headcode glass out by inserting the paperclip through the open cab window but I have not tried this.

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DO NOT TRY TO PRIZE THE GLAZING OUT FROM THE FRONT!!!!

 

Do as it says in the instructions and bend a paper clip at one end to form a 90 degree angle. Pop this through the cab moulding where the lighting bars pass through and use it to pop the glazing out from the B/back.

 

Thanks for this ,job completed.If only Heljan made it a little clearer in their instructions,at first glance I did not see the small gap between the lighting bars.

 

Pete.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We don't see Heljan rolling-stock in the stores here in Montreal, I'm curious if anyone can let me know how these Class 33s run? quiet/noisey? smooth/rough? good slow-running?? I'd really like to order the West-Coast ones but haveing no experience of Heljans locos I hope I can get some insights from the gang here at RMweb.

 

Cheers

Gene

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We don't see Heljan rolling-stock in the stores here in Montreal, I'm curious if anyone can let me know how these Class 33s run? quiet/noisey? smooth/rough? good slow-running?? I'd really like to order the West-Coast ones but haveing no experience of Heljans locos I hope I can get some insights from the gang here at RMweb.

 

Cheers

Gene

 

All my Heljan stock (a Hymek,a clayton, a couple of 1000's, a Brush Type 4, a Class 26 and a 33) run brilliantly. Fine slow speed control and more pulling power than you'd need. Only the Clayton is a bit "grumbly" in terms of noise, the rest are very quiet.

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