jwealleans Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Hi Scott, If you have a look though my thread on the LNER forum here, start about two posts up from the bottom, there's a discussion about different ways to make up roofs. I use the technique Rob P mentioned above, rolling 20 thou plastikard round a former and pouring boiling water over it, but you'd need intermediate supports on one as long as this. David Jenkinson's book, Carriage Construction Made Easy goes over his scratchbuilding techniques. It's mainly 7mm but much of it is applicable. There was a thread on the old RMWeb about soemone making all sorts of vehicles in much the same way you are. I'll see whether I can find it when it comes back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 Hi Scott, If you have a look though my thread on the LNER forum here, start about two posts up from the bottom, there's a discussion about different ways to make up roofs. I use the technique Rob P mentioned above, rolling 20 thou plastikard round a former and pouring boiling water over it, but you'd need intermediate supports on one as long as this. David Jenkinson's book, Carriage Construction Made Easy goes over his scratchbuilding techniques. It's mainly 7mm but much of it is applicable. There was a thread on the old RMWeb about soemone making all sorts of vehicles in much the same way you are. I'll see whether I can find it when it comes back up. thanks JW. just below your thread link is exactly how i have started to contruct my roof. cheers scott. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2512silverfox Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Scott Fllowing from earlier postings. Here is a part built 4mm GN artic compo using the method mentioned in David's book. This book may still be available from Wild Swan and is indispensible. The closeup of the compo side is a bit cruel but shos the effectiveness of using 10thou X 10thou microstrip for the lower beading. The scrap view shows how a typical Gresley side is built up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 When I started building 4mm scale coaches in Plastikard circa 1962 the roofs were always the difficult part so I bought Triang roofs from their CKD (Completely Knocked Down) BR coaches. Coach sides were single-skin like yours but strengthened below the windows to keep the tumblehome formed. As 2512silverfox has mentioned, David J's 7mm scale coaches were double skinned to allow the glazing to slide between the inner and outer walls and this method does make for a very strong coach. Today we have a choice of pressed and extruded aluminium roofs. I would recommend the MJT extruded LNER roof for your coaches Gobbler. Larry G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 18, 2010 Author Share Posted January 18, 2010 Thanks for your input guy's. My stumbling block, hopefully un-stumbled, let me know what you think.... above, is how i have constructed the roof, using formers and strips. above, the roof is in my smoothing process abovs, again more profile correction and smoothing, using a 'knocked up' profile gauge and a steel rule, i am using humbrol grey quick drying putty and coats of primer. once all of this is done, a small gutter strip to be added to the lowest edge, the large curved roof strip, torpedo roof vents and some handles? that go over the toilet area of roof. SILVER.......what can i say? your artic's look brill. Scott. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenser Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Are the roofs on these coaches dome ended like the mainline Gresleys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Are the roofs on these coaches dome ended like the mainline Gresleys? No. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 thanks coachman, the suburbans i'm building are straight, right to the edge. they'll have a slight 'over-hang' just under 1mm. any comments or tips on my roof? Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Scott Fllowing from earlier postings. Here is a part built 4mm GN artic compo using the method mentioned in David's book. This book may still be available from Wild Swan and is indispensible. The closeup of the compo side is a bit cruel but shos the effectiveness of using 10thou X 10thou microstrip for the lower beading. The scrap view shows how a typical Gresley side is built up. how are the holes for the handles and levers made? how are the door levers made, were they after market etchings? scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 any comments or tips on my roof? Not knowing it's construction it is difficult to comment, although it looks fine in the photos. I hated plastikard roofs as they needed so much support to prevent them sagging over time. The few I made were double thickness to ensure the cross section remained to the correct 'curvature', plus I attached a strip of 60thou plastikard about 3/8" deep end-on almost the full length of the roof to prevent it sagging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2512silverfox Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Scott The holes are simply drilled through the layers of plasticard using a small drill held in a collet (cannot remember what size drill as I write) but each hole has a guide mark made first with a gramaphone needle in another collet. I use my own brass grab rails - make a pattern for bending, and I file up the handles from some very fine brass gimp pins and polish the ourer surface. These are all fixed after the body has been painted - much easier this way! Going back to roofs, the join is quite easy to disguise if you allow the roof to fit between the guttering of the top of the coach side. I agree with coachman abut the rigidity of roofs which is why I use Kirk roofs if I can (unless building MJT coaches of course). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2512silverfox Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Thinking about it a bit further, this photo might help. It shows the grab handles, door handle and the was the roof hides behind the guttering. Some purist might prefer specialiy made parts,but I have used these for years and I am too old to change my ways now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Silver......i am sooooooo inspired by your work. thanks for your pointers your teak effect is particularly good scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 Well....here's me' latest updated pix. roof mk 2 seems to have gone ok....what do you think? alan gibson torpedo vents added lavatory window frames added, just the toilet water tank vent and roof handles to be added. body side panelling thinned and sanded not sure about the curved gutter, may be slightly out, but not bad for 1st attempt will be working on the ends next thanks for looking scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Nick, must say I got your book on LNER coach drawings.........superb. back to my stuff....haven't done much as I have come down with a touch of swine flu, nearly fully recovered now. Anyways.....I bought myself some Bachmann bogies for the coach and I think they'll do. I also got some Bachmann LNER sprung buffers, they look a bit chunky and not as fine when compared the Drawings in Nick Camplings book. I'll post some pix soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 well.......this thread has been a bit quiet of late, but in the background i've been a busy boy....honest a quick shot of the strips i'll be using to make my roof's....widths range from 1mm to 2mm in 0.7 thk plasticard. a picture of my body kit of a 4 compartment 3rd class brake (made 2 of these, one is built as in the 3rd picture) here's two pic of the other 4 compartment brake 3rd this is a piccy of an 8 compartment all 3rd you will notice the top of the compartment dividers have two 'plates' this is so i can remove the finished roof here's a pic of the 7 compartment 1st class kit anyone interested in building there own? i can supply a cutting list, but you'll need Nick Campling's excellent book. more updates soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 Those look excellent, Scott. I have a stack of unbuilt Kirk kits before I look at scratchbuilding, but I may well try to bash one into a D 244 now I've seen yours. Have you got any in primer? You'll find they photograph a lot better. What are you doing about bogies and underframe gubbins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 What are you doing about bogies and underframe gubbins? MJT (Dart Castings) do a smashing tunrbuckle underframe etch pack and Comet do excellent LNER Gresley bogies. The cast bogies would put useful weight low down on your plastic coaches. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 Well..... i found some 8'6'' Bachmann gresley bogies.... as for the under frame.....on a couple i was going to use the 'girder truss' not sure if that's the correct terminology a couple of others i was going to try and make some turn-buckle types but was not sure on how to make the under floor pillars.. regarding the under side.....ian kirk supply some battery box fronts.... Q. do the battery boxes go the whole width? if so i was going to load these with weight. at john dutfields i found some useful comet castings for 50p per pack (torpefo vents, coach end wire connector thingies & large round buffers) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swhite01 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I have enjoyed reading this post, I have a number of GN/LNER kits to build and hopefully it will give me a shove to get going!... I hope this of help, I have posted a number of pics of the 2 GNR vehicles located at the Colne Valley Railway.... one only the underframe, but it may help with the layout and does include some pics of the Turnbuckle plates etc. I intend to add more pics to the collection as time permits of other LNER/GNR vehicles. Hope of help, Steve White Link:-... http://gallery17789.fotopic.net/c1826936.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 Steve, some good shots there i'll bookmark for later reference. i like the detail shots of the turn buckle and truss. cheers, Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 The Composit body looks superb Scott. You should be very proud, Gresley's aren't the easiest of coaches to scratch built (try it in N gauge!). I'm looking forward to seeing the other coaches progess as well as the prototype on its underframe and painted! Keep it up! B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeing757 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Hi, Apologies for any perceived hijack of the thread, but can anyone tell me the dimensions in 12" to the ft of the beading of teak bodied exGE or LNER coaching stock, or a size of microstrip to represent it in 7mm/ft? Thanks, B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 Here's my latest up dates 1st off the 4comp 3rd brake...... all the upper half of the bodies ribbing has been done, just finished doing it and waiting to dry as this is being posted. Once dry i'll glue in the blanks above the door windows then a light sanding will made over the body to make the appearance more flat. then i'll need to scribe the doors in. the 8 comp all 3rd similar to above, once all that's done i'll concentrate on the coach ends and lower body panel ribbing. I'll post more as it happens...... Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 OK update fans.......here's some more for you the 4 comp 3rd brake. These pictures show better the 'ribbed' effect on the guard compartment, the ends are on and the doors scribed. I've started to shorten the length of the roof as well...... what do you think??? Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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