GAP Z Class Kit

[Norwenglish]

Hi there,

 

I'm reasonably new to the Kit building scene and have been contemplating purchasing a Golden Arrow Productions Z Class (there's something about those big SR tank engines that makes them irresistable), my only trouble is identifying which of the Hornby 8f's is the correct one to use with this kit, and was curious if anyone here has built one and knows which of the 8f's is correct.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Barry Ten]

I believe any loco-drive 8F should be fine, so any 8F made since about 2003/4 or whenever the new model came out. Just avoid the much older tender drive 8Fs.

[Norwenglish]

Thank you!

[SRman]

Yes, any of the loco drive ones will do it.

If you look on Golden Arrow's website, the kit instructions are available for download so you can see what is required in the way of cutting/hacking of the chassis.

 

Because Hornby's catalogue numbers run on from each other, when you are buying online it is difficult to tell, sometimes, whether the item you are looking at is a tender drive or a loco drive one. If you can pick up a cheap 8F from a swap meeting you have the advantage of being able to examine it first.

 

I am currently putting the finishing touches to a GAP G16 which also uses the Hornby loco-driven 8F chassis but I wouldn't mind doing a 'Z' too but that is dependent on getting another 8F at a reasonable price.

[Barry Ten]

While we're on the topic, is there a straightforward way to get the correct cylinder shape on the Z class?

[SRman]

Good question Barry! I haven't achieved this yet, although I have filed the shape down a bit on the existing 8F cylinders - mine are still too rounded in profile at this stage.

Someone suggested getting some Hornby N15 cylinders as being a better shape but, from the pictures I have seen (eg on Peter's Spares website), the mounting will require quite a bit of modification to fit the G16/8F. I should take apart one of my 'Arthurs' but, since they are not broken and work perfectly well as they are, I am reluctant to do that.

I note that the OP is in Norway; I am in Australia, so we both have the problem of not having easy access to these things to actually see what we are getting.

Edited August 2, 2013 by SRman

[Barry Ten]

Good question Barry! I haven't achieved this yet, although I have filed the shape down a bit on the existing 8F cylinders - mine are still to rounded in profile at this stage.

 

Someone suggested getting some Hornby N15 cylinders as being a better shape but, from the pictures I have seen (eg on Peter's Spares website), the mounting will require quite a bit of modification to fit the G16/8F. I should take apart one of my 'Arthurs' but, since they are not broken and work perfectly well as they are, I am reluctant to do that.

 

I note that the OP is in Norway; I am in Australia, so we both have the problem of not having easy access to these things to actually see what we are getting.

 

At least for the Z class, the N15 cylinders aren't any closer to the real thing than the 8Fs. I'm not sure what the correct term is, but the side of the Z class's cylinder casing is angled, like on a 2 cylinder GWR locomotive.

[SRman]

At least for the Z class, the N15 cylinders aren't any closer to the real thing than the 8Fs. I'm not sure what the correct term is, but the side of the Z class's cylinder casing is angled, like on a 2 cylinder GWR locomotive.

 

... or an N1 or U1 (neither of which is available RTR)!

 

This is the current state of the G16:

 

 

(With apologies to Norwenglish for hijacking his thread!)

Edited August 2, 2013 by SRman

[Graham_Muz]

Although I have not done the GAP Z class I have done their W class (based on an Bachmann N chassis) and also converted a Bachmann N to N1 both of which require the same shape of cylinder.

 

I filed the cylinder to shape and filled the resulting hole that appears with Miliput and then filed to a finished shape.

 

[Norwenglish]

@SRman, no worries with thread hijacking, any input/information is more than useful.

 

@Graham_muz, thank you for the pictures. I have to admit, that seeing pictures of Fisherton Sarum is one of the main reasons for mine and my father's railway modelling sparks being re-ignited after many years (could have something to do with you having a Leader, Q1 and some 'Spam Cans' on there, which are his 3 favourite types of engine).

[Horsetan]

.... the side of the Z class's cylinder casing is angled, like on a 2 cylinder GWR locomotive.

Might be an idea to see if you can get the cylinder block from either the Hornby "Grange" or "Large Prairie" and adapt it to fit the "Z".

[Norwenglish]

Well thats the body kit and some of the detailing parts ordered, now just to find an 8f chassis!

[ozzyo]

What about the cylinders off a Hornby 28xx? Didn't Hornby use the same set of frames for the 8F and 28xx?

[Horsetan]

What about the cylinders off a Hornby 28xx? .....

I think they don't have the full tops to them, as they have to fit under the running plate valencing....

[SRman]

Well, I have just scored a reasonably priced Hornby 8F off eBay so I have also now ordered a 'Z' from Golden Arrow. I'll be following in these footsteps soon!

[Norwenglish]

@ SRman, will we be seeing pictures of it on here?

 

Progress report on how I'm doing is detailing bits have arrived, but no body shell as of yet (no idea if it's even in the post), and still no 8f found for a decent price.

 

Stuart

Edited August 8, 2013 by Norwenglish

[SRman]

There are a few projects ahead of this one but I will post pictures of progress on my workbench blog and in this thread too if you don't mind me hijacking it a bit.

[Norwenglish]

Don't mind at all!

[Norwenglish]

Well the stuff is all here now, so planning on making a small start over the next few days if i can find time, although other things will be taking precedence from wednesday in the form of Viking Re-enactment, then moving back to school to start an even bigger project than this, in the form of a 42ft traditional norwegian fishing boat (a picture of last year's one can be posted but not sure if it is allowed/ of interest).

 

But I was wondering if people could point me in the right direction for other detailing parts that they will be needed in this build, as I found some of the catalogues I was looking through to be quite a minefield of bits.

What I have so far is the body kit, buffers, safety valves, handrail wire and handrail knobs. So as usual, any help would be most appreciated.

 

Stuart

[SRman]

Stuart, could you tell me what safety valves you are using and where you got them, please?

[N15class]

I would be tempted to cut the cylinders off and realign them and the slide bars at the right angle. Or make a new set out of brass.

[Norwenglish]

@SRman, I got the Ross Pop ones produced by Markits.

 

@15class, to be honest I would prefer not to do any scratchbuilding with brass, as I have never done any of that sort of thing before, but I might follow Graham_Muz's post with filing and filling a set of cylinders to the right shape.

[SRman]

I might have to shop around to get the Markits valves - Markits themselves are difficult to buy from, from over here in Australia.

The first stage of my Z arrived today in the shape of a Hornby LMS 8F bought off eBay for a reasonable price. It has been quickly tested and runs fine; the tender pickups don't seem to be working but that's not really a problem in what will be an 0-8-0T!!  

[Norwenglish]

I obtained my Markit's bits from a seller on a well known auction site, luckily enough I was in england visiting family over the last few weeks, so it was quite easy to obtain stuff before coming back to Norway. My problem at the moment is finding the chassis.

[Gilwell Park]

Hi.  Here is my GAP Z.  My first such kit and quite easy to make.  Must remember to dust my models before photographing them. I tried filing the 8F cylinders to shape but am not really happy with the result. I should like to try a G16 at sometime.

 

Roger.