cleaning brass (as in etched kits)

[PeterR]

Hi,

 

I have some old etched kits that when assembled will need to be cleaned of the oxide on them, not much, basically discoloration.

 

What can I use to clean  it off please? 'Shiny Sinks' used to be the stuff, but having just been to my local Morrison's I could not see any.

 

Yours Peter Bunce.

[The Nth Degree]

I've heard Barkeeper's Friend is good for that (a tip from Buckjumper) but this thread may be useful:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/15742-is-there-an-alternative-to-a-fibreglass-brush/

[Jol Wilkinson]

I think it's best to clean the parts before assembly with something like a fine Garryflex block and/or glass fibre sticks.

 

If you wait until the kit is assembled, then it can be difficult to get at some areas.

[RedgateModels]

Yup, I'm a Buckjumper convert to Bar Keepers Friend, apply as a paste with a cheap electric toothbrush.

 

see how ell my O gauge pug body came up here

[Re6/6]

Shiny Sinks and an old toothbrush has always done the business for me.

 

It should be available from most supermarkets.

[Kenton]

Before assembly Garryflex > Cif > good solvent to remove oils and ilk

 

During assembly more Garryflex, glass fibre, wash off all excess flux with soapy water or Cif

 

After assembly, as long as you don't get finger prints /oils on it simple tarnish seems to be a good enough surface for the Halford's undercoat.

 

I'm yet to try BarKeepers though recommendation comes very high - a case of happy to stick with what has worked well enough and not seeing any advantage in change for change sake. But if BJ recommends it then it must be good.

[Siberian Snooper]

I use CIF & an old toothbrush after each session of soldering, when I have finished the kit and it has had its final clean with CIF, I then put it in an ultrasonic bath with Sea Clean. After which I use rubber gloves to avoid fingering the brass, I put it in a tin on top of the radiator to dry, before applying etching primer.

 

SS

[N15class]

I am with most of the above, there many products that do a similar thing, I personally use a vim type product which is similar to barkeepers friend.

 

If you are painting I would not worry about the tarnish. I always use brass blacking fluid after cleaning. This aides the paint to stick, if the brass is too polished it makes it more difficult to adhere. When I was in the clock trade we the better we got the finish on the brass the harder it was to get an even cover of laquer.

 

The brass needs to be clean not tarnish free.

[billbedford]

If you are just removing tarnish then a bright dip using a limescale remover such as Viakal, or the cheap ones from the PoundShop, or if you are feeling really tight a saturated solution of salt + vinegar.

[The Nth Degree]

Actually Bill, you've just reminded me, I have used undiluted white (distilled) vinegar before and it is really very good indeed. I normally use it on small parts where it would be very difficult to use a toothbrush or fibre pen.

 

I fill up a small pot (with a lid) and dip them in for a couple hours and they come out very shiny. Obviously you have to give them a very good rinse, which I normally use cooled boiled water out of the kettle.

[Kenton]

Just like using flux. Acetic acid (vinegar) makes quite a good flux - remember main requirement of flux is to provide chemical cleaning during soldering. It's major problem is that it can leave a white residue of its own.

 

Do not substitute borax for "salt" or vim/Cif - although it will clean the surface it will also blacken it. It is a slow substitute for other brass blackening chemicals.

[gateman49]

Or diluted Jenolite (phosphoric acid).  The perceived wisdom is to add the Jenolite to water rather than the other way round. 

[jazz]

I'm with most of the above.

 

I use a sonic cleaner that has degaussing, built in heater and  sea clean 2 liquid cleaner in it.   Five minutes in that when it's up to temperature and the brass is nice and clean. I then buff it up to a shine with with a quick rub over with a Garryflex block.

 

After assemby, Barkeepers Friend is the rel business.

[billbedford]

Degaussing -- as in blowing up magnetic mines?

[jazz]

Er. not exactly, no. But is essential to obtain uniform cleansing on materials.

[Kenton]

 

Degaussing -- as in blowing up magnetic mines?

No, as in "expelling the wind from within"

[jazz]

Great answer (not too far of the correct either  )

[billbedford]

As in degassing? degaussing only works with magnetic materials……….

[jazz]

As I undersatand it, the instruction manual explains the degaussing removes the tiny bubbles that occure on the objects when inserted into the liqiud. (I have noticed this on brass and nickle silver at times.) The bubbles disperse during the degaussing process and gives better cleaning. Or am I completely wrong in this observation?

[Jol Wilkinson]

Degauss -  "To remove magnetism from a device"

 

​I think degassing is the subject here. Non ferrous metals as used in models are are non magnetic, so don't need "de-magnetising".

 

How that would hep as part of the cleaning process for ferrous metal escapes me, unless it improves removal of magnetised particles such as iron filings.

[jazz]

Well, all I know is the literature also refers to the cleaning of jewelry and mentions degaussing it makes for better cleaning. This is due to dispersing  the airbubbles that can be seen in rings, necklaces etc.  I know it cleans a LOT better degaussing as I tried both methods.

 

How and why I cannot say. It does not mention magnetising or types of metal needs or not needs degausssing.

[Jol Wilkinson]

Jazz,

 

some interweb research shows reference to the benefits of degassing in ultrasonic cleaning. The only reference I could find to degaussing related to cleaning magnetic tone arm cartridges.

 

Could it be a typo in the instructions? Not unknown for far eastern products (well, at least my one is).

 

Jol

[jazz]

I guess that's quite possible.

[tranby]

Probably degassing- the bubbles,if allowed to remain, provide a resist to the cleaning fluid,hence uneven/circular blotching would occur on the metal surface. A similar problem occurs in traditional art etching baths, when the  dilute nitric acid  creates gas bubbles  on the exposed  copper or zinc metal,leading to uneven line depth, visible in the pulled print.The solution was the use of a goose feather gently brushed over the plate surface to remove said bubbles, these days a very soft  long haired nylon brush would do the job.

[jazz]

Tranby, that is exactly what is happening, the bubbles cause blotchy cleansing. Degaussing disperses the bubbles for an even cleansing as I tried to explain earlier. 

Regards Ken