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National Coal Board - Royd Hall Drift & Royal Oak Sidings.


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Agreed Kenton, I'd certainly want to know why the consumer unit needs changing. Maybe it does but could just be an extra work 'scam'.

 

Do the current regs. still allow you to do the installation yourself and then get a certified electrician to check it out, make the connection to the mains, and issue the certificate?

 

And why should there be a £100.00 charge for an electrician to essentially issue a certificate to test and guarantee that his OWN work meets current standards? Just another 'tax' on your bill.

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Be aware- when I wanted to add my new shed (16X10) to the house insurance I was left in no doubt that if I connected the shed to the house by ANY means that did not involve a compliance certificate issued by a qualified electrical engineer not only would it invalidate the insurance on the shed but also that on the house.

 

£906 is a lot of money- I paid about £800 two years ago, but before accepting insurance on my layout the insurance company had a copy of the certificate faxed to them.

 

Mine involved a new consumer unit (there was no spare circuit in the old one despite it only being 15 years old, a cable about 30 metres long by the time it had gone the long way round to the far end of the garden, and a consumer unit in the shed with three circuits- power, lights and PIR lamp- the security system has its own separate power supply.

 

All the very best

Les

(who can't afford half-a-million to rebuild his house after a major disaster)

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I did some shedding today. (Apologies for the poor quality of pics - Blackberry is the worst phone camera I've ever owned!)

IMG-20131103-00639.jpg.dba8c3df901fd62107945cddd35a60c8.jpg

The right hand wall is clad with hardboard, as is the floor and most of the ceiling. I've put polystyrene block insulation in the ceiling and walls to make it a bit cosier in winter and to, hopefully, stop it getting too hot in summer. The other walls will be so treated as I make progress.

 

The wooden cross piece on the far right indicates the height that the baseboards will be at and you can just make out the rows of holes drilled above it where the "tunnel" (a semi-circle of track, enclosed in a square wooden tube) leaves/enters the shed, and on the left the corresponding rows for the other end of the tube.

 

The large holes above the other cross piece are for ventilation and the cross piece gives something solid on which to mount a fan.

 

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The outside of the vent, which can be opened or closed. This is a standard fitting bought from B&Q, screwed on and the edge sealed with silicone to keep the rain out. There is a similar one at the door end of the shed.

Edited by Ruston
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  • 9 months later...

Since the last picture of the shed nothing much had changed until yesterday. I made a huge effort.

IMG_20150809_142129.jpg.13bfaa9d9413484569883006059a46d5.jpg

 

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And soon some cash from the sale of BT&S to start filling the shed with baseboard and track.

 

I think making the colliery screens with all the complex trackwork is too ambitious so I'm scaling back but it'll still be based on the same locale and the NCB. Less is more...

Edited by Ruston
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  • 8 months later...

Small update...

 

The shed has finally been wired to the mains, properly, armoured cable and all! A sparky friend did it for £180, including 4 sockets, 2 strip lights. Oh and he said there was nothing wrong with the existing consumer unit and that it did have spare capacity!

 

And... [drumroll, please] I have cut wood for the baseboard frames.

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The colliery layout may be back on but it won't be operated prototypically in that wagons will be shunted under the screens and hauled out the same way that the went in, instead of going under and being pulled (or rolling by gravity) out of the other side. This will mean I can make more of the available space.

 

See you in another 9 months.

Edited by Ruston
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hope its a bit less than 9 months this time Dave 

 

Good to see your return :)

Well, it usually take 9 months to create something wonderful and bring it into the world.

 

Good to see you back Dave.  Cleckheaton on Saturday?

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Well, it usually take 9 months to create something wonderful and bring it into the world.

 

Good to see you back Dave.  Cleckheaton on Saturday?

Evening, Paul. What's happening at Cleckheaton?

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Evening, Paul. What's happening at Cleckheaton?

Well, it was the Gauge O Guild show which was very good even though I'm not a 7mm modeller.  Not been on here since Thursday to answer you, sorry!

 

Very nice RTR 0-4-0 Peckett in the pipeline from Dragon Models which might be of interest to you.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I missed it then... Never mind, I wouldn't have been able to spend much anyway as I've just bought a new car. I'll search the internets for this Peckett of which you speak...

 

I've fitted up some of the timbers and have one side of the shed's baseboard frames almost ready to take tops now but, once again, progress has halted. I really can't decide on a trackplan now.  This is the stage when I need to finalise it so any roads or waterways that run beneath track level can be prepared for.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Peckett ain't no small critter! You've got to make sure that it knows to play nice with the Hudswell Clarke and especially around the H Class Manning Wardle!

 

post-13142-0-80129000-1434640894_thumb.j

Blimey!  It is a big'un isn't it, I hadn't realised that.

 

I am presuming that it is accurate to scale.......................... :smile_mini:

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I've had a look at the thread about the Peckett, elsewhere on this forum. I think it'll be good but I've got plenty of motive power as it is and I don't really need another Peckett.

 

This is my current idea for a track plan:

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The tippler ought to give plenty of play value but I'm not sure there's enough opportunity for 'grot and filth'. The other thing is that all that greenery scares me.

 

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Eugh, green stuff!

 

Looks good Dave. I assume the "tippler" is a drop for bottom doors/ hoppers instead of a rollover type affair, otherwise designing it so you can get an engine on it (to access the shed) and still securely hold inverted wagons will be fun. I know you are reasonably restricted on length but you could presumably have deeper boards or even slightly "L" shaped? Looks nice and open to the left and a bit cramped at the right. Will certainly be a different modelling challenge to BT&S with all that greenery, water and such. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Morning, Brian,

 

The tippler is going to be a proper tippler. i.e. it rolls the wagons over. Probably shouldn't have locos running onto it though - will have to re-think that one. Thanks.

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  • 1 month later...

I still have no definite track plan but progress has been made on the baseboards. I have the framing in place and have begun work on the semi-circle that will be on the outside of the shed. The semi-circle will allow the full 12-feet to be used scenically as trains will run through the end wall, and come back into the shed where the fiddle yard will be, on the opposite long wall of the shed.

 

I think that once I have the baseboard tops laid on the frames, and can place pieces of track and wagons around, I'll get a much better idea of a track plan. I'm hopeless at imagining two-dimensional scale drawings into three-dimensional real model railways.

Edited by Ruston
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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

I'm stuck again.

 

I had more or less decided on the layout being part of a colliery but this depends entirely on being able to make the screens actually load wagons with coal (probably some representation of coal as I expect the real thing would make an awful mess) and on this my mind has gone blank.

 

The basic idea was to have the roof of the building removable and some sort of hopper that can be filled with enough coal to fill 9 wagons (or 3 seperate hoppers holding enough for 3 wagons) through 3 discharge points, each capable of being operated independently of the others.

 

I can see the main problem being how to control the flow. Some kind of flap or valve?

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Guest Isambarduk

"Some kind of flap or valve?"
 
I think you will find it rather tricky to control the flow rate this way, Ruston. 
 
Faced with this problem, I would make a 'shaker-table', which is really just a small tray that your hopper will feed and which vibrates to agitate the 'coal' to allow it to flow in a controlled manner.  The vibration is simple a matter of a small motor with an out-of-balance flywheel that is fixed to the tray, which is loosely suspended/supported.  In setting up, the tray is inclined until the 'coal' just does not quite slide off on its own with the motor stopped so that, when the motor is switched on, the static friction is overcome and the 'coal' slides off.  To a degree, the more the vibration, the greater the flow.  I hope my explanation is clear enough to give you the idea.

 

David

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