Simon G Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 Back to back diodes also work, as each diode drops about 0.7 volts, so you can add them in series. So if you used 6 diodes (1N4004 will be fine) 3 in series each way, the voltage drop would be 2.1 volts.add or subtract diodes to suit. Just make sure you use the same number facing each way. I tried a 100 ohm resistor last night and the motor would barely start and wasnt at all controllable. Thinking about it, this is not surprising as the resistance across the Susumotor is about 10 ohms, so by adding a 100 ohm resistor, I increased the overall resistance by a factor of over 10. I cannot see how a 150 ohm resistor as mentioned on one of the links earlier would actually work (but then I dont know much about electronics!). The diode method is new to me, but I might give it a try if I can lay my hands on some of them - checking on Farnell/ebay etc, they certainly arent expensive - 50 for £1.99! I might just try a lower resistor first though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigherb Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 If it starts smoothly with your speed controller there is not really any need to add diodes, you are applying a variable voltage from 0-12V with your controller just use that to regulate the speed. I fitted some diodes to my 09 shunter all it did was make it start a bit further up the regulator but no effect on top speed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon G Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 After my failure with a 100 ohm resistor, I tried a nominal 15 ohm one last night (my meter measured it as 13 ohms). It ran really well, with good controllability entering and leaving a station. I was able to get the controller up to full power without incident, and while the top speed was still high, it doesnt matter to me. I will probably wire the 15 ohm resistor in permanently after this trial. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trustytrev Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Hello, I have now ground the lug off, and a friend had a 1/4 inch reamer, so the 5mm hole is now the correct 6.3mm size, and the collar of a Susumotor fits nice and snugly. The next problem is that the motor shaft diameter is approx 2mm and the Ringfield spur gear is 2.5mm, so I either need to build up the 2mm to 2.5mm or fill the spur gear hole with either glue or solder and then drill it back out again to 2mm. I made an attempt at increasing the motor shaft diameter, but it didnt work, so it will have to be the latter option of filling the spur gear hole and redrilling, unless anyone has a better suggestion? I used some plastic insulation from mains twin and earth.Warm it up and push it on the spindle making sure it is a bit longer than needed.When cold press the gear on and cut off the protruding insulation.I did one a couple of years ago and it is still going strong. trustytrev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ess1uk Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Another souce for LIMA remotoring kits is:- http://www.diesel-trains.co.uk That link doesn't appear to work, is the site down? Have they stopped trading? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigherb Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 That link doesn't appear to work, is the site down? Have they stopped trading? Works for me. They where still trading a couple of weeks ago when I had some motors off them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I have remotored several Lima locos with the motors from CD drives mentioned by Adrian White, A scalextric contrate pinion is an exact fit on the motor spindle and a simple strap with rear bearing bulge size hole in it across the faceplate mounting holes and shorter screws or spacers is all that is required. I run mine on batteries, 2 or 4X AA cells so I cannot comment on resistors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon G Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I have remotored several Lima locos with the motors from CD drives mentioned by Adrian White, A scalextric contrate pinion is an exact fit on the motor spindle and a simple strap with rear bearing bulge size hole in it across the faceplate mounting holes and shorter screws or spacers is all that is required. I run mine on batteries, 2 or 4X AA cells so I cannot comment on resistors. David, I would be interested to see a photo of your strap arrangement to hold the new motor in place in the Lima motor housing. I have used small sections of plasticard wedged between motor and housing to hold the motor in place, but have a few more to do, so am interested in other methods. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ess1uk Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Works for me. They where still trading a couple of weeks ago when I had some motors off them. tried it several times yesterday but its working now Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 (edited) David, I would be interested to see a photo of your strap arrangement to hold the new motor in place in the Lima motor housing. I have used small sections of plasticard wedged between motor and housing to hold the motor in place, but have a few more to do, so am interested in other methods. Simon The strap is just 1mm thick or so plastic drilled to fit across the faceplate fixing holes of the Lima motor housing, When I popped a body off for a photo I found the first one is just a straight strap and when I tried another it was as I remembered and has a hole to locate the motor bearing bulge on the motor Hopefully you can see them at http:// www.photobox.co.uk/album/2397622959 as I cannot post to this site. Edited January 29, 2014 by DavidCBroad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 David, Tried link and it just goes to photobox mainpage - maybe you copied link from a 'logged in' session in your own album area? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Hi Try it without the HTTP prefix as www.photobox.co.uk/album/2397622959 An earlier post mentioned uing diodes to drop voltage, H have done this but 1N400 diodes atually drop around 0.45 volts rather han the 0.7 volts usually quoted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon G Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Hi Try it without the HTTP prefix as www.photobox.co.uk/album/2397622959 David - that works - many thanks. Will try something similar on my next efforts, as I have 3 non-running Lima diesels arriving soon from an ebay purchase. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Has anyone tried these motors on DCC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) Pictures at last of my class 37 power bogies with computer motors held by simple straps across the standard Lima fixing screws. done 5 years ago approx, mine run on battery power. Edited February 17, 2015 by DavidCBroad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zorcan Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Back to back diodes also work, as each diode drops about 0.7 volts, so you can add them in series. So if you used 6 diodes (1N4004 will be fine) 3 in series each way, the voltage drop would be 2.1 volts.add or subtract diodes to suit. Just make sure you use the same number facing each way. Diodes wont work if you want DCC - the back EMF signal will be blocked. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 I got a couple of these from Finland and salvaged a few from DVD drives. Some comments, 1. 25mm diameter DVD Motors are available in two thicknesses, 12mm which is OK for Bo-Bo / 4-wheel bogies and 9.5mm which is OK for Co-Co or 6-wheel bogies. 2. I found the 6-wheelers had a plastic mounting stub for the intermediate gear shaft intruding into the motor housing which prevented installation of the new motor. Chopping this out left the intermediate gear without a decent shaft mount, so job shelved for now. 3. 4-wheelers were a doddle to convert and the supplied plastic gear is holding up for now. 4. All these motors run nice on a 9-volt brick battery and I have pulled the V-max down on DCC to limit the applied voltage and no problems to date. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 I got a couple of these from Finland and salvaged a few from DVD drives. Some comments, 1. 25mm diameter DVD Motors are available in two thicknesses, 12mm which is OK for Bo-Bo / 4-wheel bogies and 9.5mm which is OK for Co-Co or 6-wheel bogies. 2. I found the 6-wheelers had a plastic mounting stub for the intermediate gear shaft intruding into the motor housing which prevented installation of the new motor. Chopping this out left the intermediate gear without a decent shaft mount, so job shelved for now. 3. 4-wheelers were a doddle to convert and the supplied plastic gear is holding up for now. 4. All these motors run nice on a 9-volt brick battery and I have pulled the V-max down on DCC to limit the applied voltage and no problems to date. Rob What type of batteries do you use? I thought of these as an option but the rechargeable ones, at least from the well known manufacturers, only have about 170mAH capacity and would onlt keep one of my locos going for about 40 minutes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 I run my DVD motors on 2 X AA cells of about 2200 mah each for a top speed around a scale 40 MPH and they run for hours. I find keeping the voltage down is the key to long running times as high voltage (9 volts) means a lot of insulation between the tiny 1.5 V cells within the battery casing which eats up the area for battery capacity. My 156 ran with 4 X AA batteries for a more realistic top speed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 What type of batteries do you use? I thought of these as an option but the rechargeable ones, at least from the well known manufacturers, only have about 170mAH capacity and would onlt keep one of my locos going for about 40 minutes. I just ran them up on a standard 9v brick battery to see if they worked and how hard they were going at it before putting them to work on DCC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 I've just ordered a Susumotor for my GWR Railcar. I'm planning to convert it to radio control, so a lower voltage motor is a big advantage, especially as I read that the Lima motors start on 7 volts, and I'll be using a 3.7 volt battery! Although I've already got the same type of motor, I thought that it's worth a fiver to get the gear ready fitted, and installation instructions, to make the job easier. I've just got to convert the railcar back from EM to OO now! Has anyone tried fitting these motors to Mainline locos? It looks as though they may fit. My other current RC project is to convert a 56xx. I think it will run OK on 5 volts with the original motor, which I can easily step the voltage up to, and doesn't seem to draw too much current, but if it will run on 3.7 volts it's less stuff to work out how to fit in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Geep7 Posted July 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 19, 2017 I have a Lima 117 converted with a Susumotor running on DCC and it works fine. I've used an NCE D13SR, which gives great control over the whole speed curve. Still needs a bit more tweaking though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 I have to say I'm impressed so far. I discovered the idea of using a CD motor, and from there the Susumotors, on Tuesday, and a Susumotor arrived from Finland today. That's faster than a lot of stuff arrives from within the UK! Anyway, it looks as though my Lima GWR Railcar will now be my first attempt at radio control. The instructions suggest using a "quick super-glue", or "Loctite-type quick glue", but I wondered what other people have found works best. Gluing the motor in place seems a bit drastic to someone who's used to making things removable! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Those Susmotors look similar to these http://www.diesel-trains.co.uk/Lima_replacement_motor_kits.html Which I will be using to remotor some Lima diesels I did a remotor of a Lima class 08 and it works well on a 3.7V battery drawing about 110mA while pulling about 12 wagons Notice the diesel trains ones have a pre glued mounting plate Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 (edited) I used a flexible adhesive, in the one (and only) particular case: http://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-sticks-like-sh-t-290ml/22070?kpid=22070&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%2520Listing%2520Ads-_-Sales%2520Tracking-_-sales%2520tracking%2520url&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItJCxl4Gb1QIVbLXtCh0ivwg9EAQYASABEgKbKvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CK6Eo7yBm9UCFYzHUQodWzYN4w Other similar compounds available, I just had this to hand. Only done the one remotoring using the motors in question though.... Edit: Forgot to say it's quite easily remove with a sharp scalpel etc. I did that when I removed the susumotor and reinstated the Lima pancake. Edited July 21, 2017 by leopardml2341 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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