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Simond
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That's the sort of problem which would not trouble me in the slightest, so option 'c' would suit me just fine. But this is a matter of personal taste, interests, obsessions and priorities, of course. So for example, if it was me then the wrong shape of a radiator grille on a Morris 1000 would drive me nuts.

 

John

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Simon,

Rivets are for holding things together, not counting. If you had kept stumm no one would have noticed and if anyone had, they would have been driven off this forum.

Chris

 

 

Chris

 

you're absolutely right, of course, but fundamentally, I'm doing it for my pleasure, and that would be spoilt by making something less accurately than I can.  If I hadn't known, it would not have been an issue, but given that I now do...

 

Life is a series of compromises, and there will always be limits to the level of fidelity that I can, or am willing to, afford the time and/or money to achieve, but within these constraints, it seems pointless to do less well than could be done.

 

It's just frustrating to know that I could have fixed the issue in about 5 or maybe 10 minutes had I found the photo before I formed and soldered the damn thing, and to remake it is an hour or two, maybe more (though it would hopefully take less time that the first one!)  On the other hand, if we were all to sit around doing nothing until we had incontrovertible evidence of the details, there would be many fewer models built!

 

Anyway, I have left it at the moment, pending some of the transfer rivets that David has proposed.  A good solution, I hope.  If not, it is merely tack-soldered on, and can be replaced.

 

See you Saturday?

 

best

Simon

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Chris

 

you're absolutely right, of course, but fundamentally, I'm doing it for my pleasure, and that would be spoilt by making something less accurately than I can.  If I hadn't known, it would not have been an issue, but given that I now do...

 

Life is a series of compromises, and there will always be limits to the level of fidelity that I can, or am willing to, afford the time and/or money to achieve, but within these constraints, it seems pointless to do less well than could be done.

 

It's just frustrating to know that I could have fixed the issue in about 5 or maybe 10 minutes had I found the photo before I formed and soldered the damn thing, and to remake it is an hour or two, maybe more (though it would hopefully take less time that the first one!)  On the other hand, if we were all to sit around doing nothing until we had incontrovertible evidence of the details, there would be many fewer models built!

 

Anyway, I have left it at the moment, pending some of the transfer rivets that David has proposed.  A good solution, I hope.  If not, it is merely tack-soldered on, and can be replaced.

 

See you Saturday?

 

best

Simon

 

Simon

 

As I understand it, your evidence for the rivets is a photograph of a model, not the real thing? If so, I would not trust that as evidence - work from the full-size subject, every time.

 

John

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Chris

 

you're absolutely right, of course, but fundamentally, I'm doing it for my pleasure, and that would be spoilt by making something less accurately than I can.  If I hadn't known, it would not have been an issue, but given that I now do...

 

Life is a series of compromises, and there will always be limits to the level of fidelity that I can, or am willing to, afford the time and/or money to achieve, but within these constraints, it seems pointless to do less well than could be done.

 

It's just frustrating to know that I could have fixed the issue in about 5 or maybe 10 minutes had I found the photo before I formed and soldered the damn thing, and to remake it is an hour or two, maybe more (though it would hopefully take less time that the first one!)  On the other hand, if we were all to sit around doing nothing until we had incontrovertible evidence of the details, there would be many fewer models built!

 

Anyway, I have left it at the moment, pending some of the transfer rivets that David has proposed.  A good solution, I hope.  If not, it is merely tack-soldered on, and can be replaced.

 

See you Saturday?

 

best

Simon

Sadly, I won't be at Reading on Saturday. Saturday 3rd was kept clear, but because of the double-booking cock-up I have to attend a nephew's wedding in London.

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John,

 

You're right of course, but in absence of better data...

 

I believe the manufacturer is respected, and can be trusted to have made an effort. If I saw a Finney tender with the rivets, an a photo of a real one without, it would be hard to decide...

 

I wonder if Finney 7 can help. Excuse me whilst I slip over to the other channel...

 

:)

Best

Simon

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And after a brief search, it does appear that the Brassmasters 4mm tender is a Martin Finney design. Brassmasters kindly publish their instructions and some useful photos on't'web, so I was able to peruse. I'm now searching for transfer rivets.

 

There is one remaining example of this tender, in Swindon, attached to a Dean Goods, so I've probably stood on the footplate, when it was in the old museum, before "Steam". I very much doubt I'd have taken a photo of the water filler, simply because it's nigh on impossible to do so without climbing on the vehicle in question, and museum curators generally don't like that! In any case, I'm going to Reading on Saturday, and that's already well over 100 miles from home, so a further 30 or so to Swindon ain't happening any time soon.

 

Thanks for the comments and suggestions!

Simon

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Just back from Reading. Very happy. Warren Haywood brought my King & Castle which he'd painted, and Paul Martin brought back my Peckett, which had apparently had a motor problem, now resolved.

 

It was nice to put faces to a few names, met Chris (Spams) very briefly as he'd just got his lunch (Burger), and had a chat with Jim Snowdon, and caught up with many others. The show was quite busy, despite the date change. Met Terry Dumbrell, & bought a crane kit, changed a Parkside Dundas wagon kit for one of the right era, and spoke to Guilplates about the number plates for Tre Pol& Pen. Managed to get some rail and chairs so the track building can recommence at some point. All in all, a successful, if expensive day.

 

I think Warren has done a brilliant job, and I'm delighted with the result. They need the windows glazing, cab details & crew fitting, and a little subtle "in service" grime, as befits a couple of top link locos. The King needs its decoder & speaker refitting too. It's currently parked on a bit of paper!

 

post-20369-0-66515100-1481392814_thumb.jpg

 

(Just noticed how dusty the Hall is! That one is all my own work!)

 

Best

Simon

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Just back from Reading. Very happy. Warren Haywood brought my King & Castle which he'd painted, and Paul Martin brought back my Peckett, which had apparently had a motor problem, now resolved.

 

It was nice to put faces to a few names, met Chris (Spams) very briefly as he'd just got his lunch (Burger), and had a chat with Jim Snowdon, and caught up with many others. The show was quite busy, despite the date change. Met Terry Dumbrell, & bought a crane kit, changed a Parkside Dundas wagon kit for one of the right era, and spoke to Guilplates about the number plates for Tre Pol& Pen. Managed to get some rail and chairs so the track building can recommence at some point. All in all, a successful, if expensive day.

 

I think Warren has done a brilliant job, and I'm delighted with the result. They need the windows glazing, cab details & crew fitting, and a little subtle "in service" grime, as befits a couple of top link locos. The King needs its decoder & speaker refitting too. It's currently parked on a bit of paper!

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1015.JPG

 

(Just noticed how dusty the Hall is! That one is all my own work!)

 

Best

Simon

 

All looks superb Simon,

 

Nice line up!

 

Rich

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Good to finally meet you today Simon, even though it was very briefly. I did look out for you after the sausage bap but didn't spot you again for a longer chat.

Sausages eh? :)

 

Sorry we didn't get to have a chat, my crowd were pretty much ready for lift-off when I'd polished off my sarnie, so we headed East pronto. Next time!

 

Best

Simon

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Progress!

 

I think I must have been on a roll this evening as I was able to fix the top deck, and the shovelling plate, front plates, and do the beading all round the top. Having done that, I fitted the coal plates, and did the beading on them too. Result!

 

There's one bit that I discovered hasn't soldered, and I haven't done the beading down the front yet, so they'll be a task for tomorrow. That will conclude the "heavy" platework, then on to the detailing.

 

There's probably a bit of cleaning up to do...

 

post-20369-0-68954700-1481580574_thumb.jpg

 

post-20369-0-57624800-1481580792_thumb.jpg

 

Best

Simon

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A little further progress this evening. Also some pix of the GW rivet press if anyone's interested.

 

post-20369-0-84316200-1481664481_thumb.jpg

The press. The clamp can be fitted to the table, to enable the workpiece to be accurately moved under the press tool, using the screw feeds. It's a bit tedious, but very effective for circular or other complex patterns. I took the clamp off to do these parts, as they have half etched holes to locate the press tool. Nice neat, small holes, not gurt craters, like some kits...

 

post-20369-0-97617900-1481664507_thumb.jpg

I wiped the back with a felt tip pen to make it easier to see the holes

 

post-20369-0-85564200-1481664537_thumb.jpg

This is what the rivets look like - these are the stiffeners for the coal plates.

 

post-20369-0-21376700-1481664560_thumb.jpg

Tender with stiffeners, fire iron rack, and beading finished.

 

post-20369-0-75423700-1481664575_thumb.jpg

Ditto!

 

Edit - forgot to say, the frames have now been tinned with solder paint. This will enable the low-melt solder to be used to solder the cast whitemetal axleboxes & springs in place, once all the brass soldering is done.

 

Best

Simon

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Hi Simon,

 

That tender is looking very nice, glad you sorted the rivets.

 

I like that rivet press, I'll have to have a look on their website and treat myself.

I wasn't slating the Metalsmith press, I just find it lacking in substance, but it does its job ok. ~I'd certainly prefer something of that ilk above.

 

Jinty ;)

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Jinty, not sure you'll find a website. There's often an advert in MRJ and ordered is by phone or letter with cheque. Doesn't do many shows at all but was at Reading last weekend.

 

Simon's press looks like the super duper model with adjustable table. I've just got the basic £45 jobbie but that's sufficient for pressing out half etched rivets. Good bit of kit, recommended.

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Hi Simon,

 

That tender is looking very nice, glad you sorted the rivets.

 

I like that rivet press, I'll have to have a look on their website and treat myself.

I wasn't slating the Metalsmith press, I just find it lacking in substance, but it does its job ok. ~I'd certainly prefer something of that ilk above.

 

Jinty ;)

 

 

Jinty,

GW Models don't have a website (at least I don't think they do) but contact details are in their ad in the latest Guide magazine - if you dont have it handle, ping me a PM and I'll let you have it - but they are cheque only .. I enquired with them on Tuesday for a 10" roller ... Which may be the first step towards brass ;)

 

Rich

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I have the 10" rollers. But they are not as good as the 6" ones. They flex a little in the centre. No website, no method of payment except cash at shows or cheque. He would not even let me transfer money to his account as my cheques here are no good in the UK.

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Peter,

 

I had the same problem, as I'm here in the US. In the end, I had to write a sterling cheque and mail it (I still maintain a small UK account). I have the 10" and it came in very handy for rolling the garratt boilers.I also have the rivet press and find it invaulable. I think I'm going to probabaly going to dismantle and paint or blue both tools though, due to the surface rust developing due to the high humidity here.

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