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The Furness Valley Railroad


chaz

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Perhaps one of these might be useful https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aluminium-right-angle-drill-attachment/dp/B003739MII  I have a black and decker power centre (no longer made I think) which has a grider on one end and a flexible shaft with a chuck end on the other which would probably be able to do the job.

 

Don

 

Thanks for the suggestion - I do have something similar that fits my Dremel Don, but its capacity does not extend to 9mm! In fact I only have one more hole to drill in that area so I think I will deploy the mole wrench again ('orrible device though it is for this job).

 

Chaz

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Hi Chaz

Can I suggest that you put a large circular base on the tree and then bury it in a recess. The same trick that is used on removable signals. This will allow the modeling of the roots and blend them into some ground cover.

 

John 

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Hi Chaz

Can I suggest that you put a large circular base on the tree and then bury it in a recess. The same trick that is used on removable signals. This will allow the modeling of the roots and blend them into some ground cover.

 

John 

 

That's an interesting thought John. The one problem I can forsee is the blending bit - how to do it without an obvious join or gap. I suppose one overlaps the ground cover. It does appeal though, makes it possible to turn the tree around on the bench to model the roots etc. Cutting the hole for the recess will be easy with the largest hole saw. If the hole is round there will have to be a peg of some sort to ensure that if the tree is removed it goes back orientated correctly. Of course if a circular drop-in base is used and proves too obvious (a gap) then it can be fixed in place and the gap filled and covered.

 

Incidentally (and off topic) that's not the way I do removeable signals. My plug in bases are not much bigger than the foot of the post. Sadly US ng lines had no signals that I can include on the FVRR.

 

Chaz

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... The one problem I can forsee is the blending bit - how to do it without an obvious join or gap. I suppose one overlaps the ground cover. ...

 

In this case I would try to hide the gap behind some green stuff.

To conceal any circular shape I would use a mixture of bushes, brambles,

lower grass/grass tufts etc.

Regards

  Armin

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In this case I would try to hide the gap behind some green stuff.

To conceal any circular shape I would use a mixture of bushes, brambles,

lower grass/grass tufts etc.

Regards

  Armin

 

Yes, I am thinking along the same lines, behind and under. I don't anticipate "digging up" the tree very often but I have to concede that it will be useful occasionally to be able to get it out of the way. I think it will probably be worth making the disc fit into the recess fairly accurately so the gap is minimised.

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Yes, I am thinking along the same lines, behind and under. I don't anticipate "digging up" the tree very often but I have to concede that it will be useful occasionally to be able to get it out of the way. I think it will probably be worth making the disc fit into the recess fairly accurately so the gap is minimised.

just be careful about spraying or dribbling PVA in the area it will either glue the tree in or set in the hole and obstruct replacing it. So I would fix the scenery in that area first.

 

Don

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just be careful about spraying or dribbling PVA in the area it will either glue the tree in or set in the hole and obstruct replacing it. So I would fix the scenery in that area first.

 

Don

 

good point Don. Measures will be taken!

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Incidentally (and off topic) that's not the way I do removable signals. My plug in bases are not much bigger than the foot of the post. Sadly US ng lines had no signals that I can include on the FVRR.

 

Not quite true Chaz, if you look at photos of the depot buildings you should see what looks like a double arm signal mounted on the building. This is a form of signal called a 'Train Order Board' and acted like a starter signal. Grandt Line make a moulding of this item if you want to include one. However you are right about no signals on the Narrow Gauge or on many of the SG lines, trains were worked on Train Orders.

 

​As for covering your tree base how about a fallen branch or even a stack of sawn logs, just some suggestions.

 

​John

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Incidentally (and off topic) that's not the way I do removable signals. My plug in bases are not much bigger than the foot of the post. Sadly US ng lines had no signals that I can include on the FVRR.

 

Not quite true Chaz, if you look at photos of the depot buildings you should see what looks like a double arm signal mounted on the building. This is a form of signal called a 'Train Order Board' and acted like a starter signal. Grandt Line make a moulding of this item if you want to include one. However you are right about no signals on the Narrow Gauge or on many of the SG lines, trains were worked on Train Orders.

 

​As for covering your tree base how about a fallen branch or even a stack of sawn logs, just some suggestions.

 

​John

 

My understanding of the train order board was that it ordered a train to stop and receive a new train order if there was no signal the train was free to stop or go on as per its original instructions.  So the Train order board could stop a train to say wait here to cross with an extra, or a train that was due to stop and wait a crossing could receive a new order to say carry on and cross a the next station. It doesn't of itself do anything other than say stop there is a new train order. Have I got this wrong?

 

Don

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These train order boards - would I be correct in supposing that many stations would not have them? Maybe because all trains were expected to stop? And on less trafficked lines the need for orders to be changed in the middle of the route must have been less.

 

If I do decide to fit one to the depot building at Stoke's Ferry I will make it myself, and make it operate. Anybody have a drawing of a NG one or a link to where I might find one?

 

I should have added that I have found lots of pictures and drawings on the net, but so far none have been dimensioned. it would be helpful to have at least the dimensions of a semaphore arm.

 

Chaz

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Incidentally (and off topic) that's not the way I do removable signals. My plug in bases are not much bigger than the foot of the post. Sadly US ng lines had no signals that I can include on the FVRR.

 

Not quite true Chaz, if you look at photos of the depot buildings you should see what looks like a double arm signal mounted on the building. This is a form of signal called a 'Train Order Board' and acted like a starter signal. Grandt Line make a moulding of this item if you want to include one. However you are right about no signals on the Narrow Gauge or on many of the SG lines, trains were worked on Train Orders.

 

​As for covering your tree base how about a fallen branch or even a stack of sawn logs, just some suggestions.

 

​John

 

Sorry Chaz, I was quoting a quick e-mail I had received from my friend in Canada a while ago. I did not read it correctly and he did put in the link that Don quoted in his post.

 

As to a drawing, I might have one but will have to dig the book out if I remember where it is.

 

John

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Sorry Chaz, I was quoting a quick e-mail I had received from my friend in Canada a while ago. I did not read it correctly and he did put in the link that Don quoted in his post.

 

As to a drawing, I might have one but will have to dig the book out if I remember where it is.

 

John

 

Thanks John, if you can find a dimensioned drawing it would be a useful starting point. Of course, as in so many other things, the FVRR might well go their own way....

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Grandt Line have a kit

 

http://www.grandtline.com/for-the-model-railroading/miscellaneous-details/trackside-details/

 

Item 3028?

 

Either EDM or 7mm NGA?

 

Rgds Andrew

 

Thanks for the link Andrew, item 3028 seems a likely design, labelled as it is for Colorado NG lines. However it's obviously plastic and non-working. I think I would prefer to make a brass one as I would like it to work. There is penty of room inside the depot building to hide a servo.

 

Chaz

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Ah well if you want a working signal you could consider the Ball signal?

 

post-10483-0-06094600-1491901895.jpg

 

post-10483-0-84782900-1491902174.jpg

 

post-10483-0-06058000-1491901913.jpg

 

Making that a working example would be interesting (If it doesn't work - is that where the term "balls up" comes from?)

 

I'll get em coat.....

 

Rgds Andrew

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Ah well if you want a working signal you could consider the Ball signal?

 

attachicon.gifHighball.JPG

 

attachicon.gifDepot Signals.jpg

 

attachicon.gifwhitefield-s.jpg

 

Making that a working example would be interesting (If it doesn't work - is that where the term "balls up" comes from?)

 

I'll get em coat.....

 

Rgds Andrew

 

I should keep it on, if that's the level we can expect in the future (or should I say going forward:no: ).  

 

Yes, I knew about ball signals but I don't think they would be typical for the FVRR. Hmm, think I should just high-ball it out of here....

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The saga of the tricky corner continues. With the weather encouraging me into the great outdoors progress has slowed but here is where I have got to.

 

post-9071-0-15306600-1499763870.jpg

 

The tree on the left is tried in place, planted in its hole; later it will get postiche and scatter foliage.

 

post-9071-0-84641900-1499763898.jpg

 

Further along I cut the card support to silhouette shapes...

 

post-9071-0-95049400-1499763918.jpg

 

....which will have these "trees" glued to them. That section between the end of the crib wall and the two shrubs on the right is going to need some work - a small tree or two, more low shrubs, some brambles? Maybe some tall static grass?

 

post-9071-0-49349800-1499763937.jpg

 

They are pieces of horsehair torn to shape, sprayed with foliage spray and then covered with scatter. I left the bottom edge straight as they will fit along the backscene immediately above the crib wall. These were very quick to do, unlike the full, 3D trees but then they don't have any detail. There just isn't any room for anything better.

 

Chaz

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Some interesting information on here http://mysite.du.edu/~etuttle/rail/to.htm I note is says it was usual to have a train order board at all stations with a telegraph office so are you planning to add the poles (and wires?) for the telegraph.

Don

 

Poles? Possibly. Wires? Probably not. When I have seen it done they have either been too straight or, if slack, too "kinky".

It's going to be a bit tricky finding a way through the trees though - might be best not to bother?

 

On the other hand...

 

I have a book called "Colorado Memories of the Narrow Gauge Circle" which I picked up 2nd hand at a show (for £5!) and which includes lots of photos taken on the NG before most of the lines were abandoned. Telegraph poles with one cross bar and two or more insulators are prominent in many of the pictures. It would be a good extra detail to add.

 

Chaz

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Poles? Possibly. Wires? Probably not. When I have seen it done they have either been too straight or, if slack, too "kinky".

It's going to be a bit tricky finding a way through the trees though - might be best not to bother?

 

On the other hand...

 

I have a book called "Colorado Memories of the Narrow Gauge Circle" which I picked up 2nd hand at a show (for £5!) and which includes lots of photos taken on the NG before most of the lines were abandoned. Telegraph poles with one cross bar and two or more insulators are prominent in many of the pictures. It would be a good extra detail to add.

 

Chaz

 

I probably wouldn't add the wires myself but the poles and fittings yes. Originally it would have been for the telegraph .

Don 

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Yep Chaz, it is a on-line magazine, totally free but does mainly deal with SG however they do come up with some really useful scenery tips plus new 'O' scale products.

 

John

 

I had a look at "'O' Scale Resources" and found it excellent - its only drawback is that I could spend the rest of the week looking at it and not get anything else done.

 

You were right about the telegraph pole article - more information than you could possibly need, and some very helpful tips on how to make 'em.

Thanks for that really good tip!

 

Chaz

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Hi Chaz, Yes it is good, I tend to check out the index of each issue to see if anything catches my eye it is also bi-monthly so you do not need too spend to much time ploughing through irrelevent articles. The next issue is due in May.

 

John

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