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Fox or HMRS Transfers: Which do you prefer?


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Personally I don't like waterslide transfers. My preference is methfix although these are becoming harder to come by. Pressfix are ok when new but old ones aren't so good and rub down need careful handling. I like to be able to position the transfer before removing the backing as in my experience this give the best result.

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I think a lot of it comes down to what suits you best.

For instance, the general consensus appears to be that Methfix are best and that waterslide are the worst, but I find waterslide the easiest of all to use and Methfix just user-unfriendly versions of the same thing.

I suspect that that it is the quality of the product, rather than the nature of its application, that is the key and that you need to try everything that is available before forming your own opinion.

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Guest 40-something

I use a mixture of HMRS (Pressfix), Fox and Modelmaster.  

 

Others to look out for are Railtec, Cambridge Custom Transfers and Precision Labels, Nairnshire Modelling Supplies and Replica.

 

I prefer the ease of waterslide, but I prefer the look of pressfix

 

No connection other than a satisfied customer

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I ask because in the search history, I found quite a few posts saying that Fox transfers were hard to use and kept breaking.

 

Breaking transfers is usually down to rough handling, or very old stock.

 

Be patient with waterslide - a lot of breaking problems can be caused by trying to "force" the transfer off the backing paper early. Or trying to move them once they're initially in place - I always keep a small brush handy to dampen the transfer if it needs moving

 

Cheers,

Mick

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I use a mixture of HMRS (Pressfix), Fox and Modelmaster.  

 

Others to look out for are Railtec, Cambridge Custom Transfers and Precision Labels, Nairnshire Modelling Supplies and Replica.

 

I prefer the ease of waterslide, but I prefer the look of pressfix

 

No connection other than a satisfied customer

 

Forgive my ignorance but what's the difference?

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I found Fox transfers to be very good. I used them a lot when i did a Number of Hornby A4 and A3 tender drives. At first i used them alone straight on the model, which with them requires a gloss surface to grip too. Also found the use of decalfix important as this reduced the carrier film on the transfers from standing out

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Speaking for 4mm LNER useage only.

 

HMRS.  Very good if you find a sheet that has been printed without being out of line. The original PC Transfer version of the HMRS sheets if you can find them are much better quality printing . I prefer the Pressfix use as Methfix is a lot of flafing around to get a good result.

 

Fox.  Very expensive , fragile and the quality of LNER lettering is about 75% of the HMRS quality.

 

Modelmaster.  I have used their LNER lining quite good but white sections are far too wide compared to HMRS version. Wagon sheets are about 70% of HMRS quality and again fairly fragile.

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Forgive my ignorance but what's the difference?

Pressfix - actually does what it says. You just press the "transfer" onto the model and a sticky material on the back holds it in place until the model is varnished and everything is fixed. This is just like Letraset if you know what that is/was. Problem is that with time the tacky glue on the back stops being tacky.

 

Methfix are like waterslide transfers except that you use methylated spirits to release the transfer from the backing.

 

Pressfix you position the transfer and press hard, Methfix you slide the transfer off the backing and into its place - more room for adjustment - before sucking up the excess meths with the tip of a tissue.

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Pressfix - actually does what it says. You just press the "transfer" onto the model and a sticky material on the back holds it in place until the model is varnished and everything is fixed. This is just like Letraset if you know what that is/was. Problem is that with time the tacky glue on the back stops being tacky.

 

Methfix are like waterslide transfers except that you use methylated spirits to release the transfer from the backing.

 

Pressfix you position the transfer and press hard, Methfix you slide the transfer off the backing and into its place - more room for adjustment - before sucking up the excess meths with the tip of a tissue.

With methfix you position the transfer where it is to go and then wet with Meths/water mix. Gently press into place and leave for 10mins. The backing is then soaked with water to remove leaving the transfer in place. Water slide you have to slide off the backing before positioning. It is the ability to position before wetting that I like and as you need the meths to soften the gum to stick it is not affected when the backing is removed with just water,

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Pressfix - actually does what it says. You just press the "transfer" onto the model and a sticky material on the back holds it in place until the model is varnished and everything is fixed. This is just like Letraset if you know what that is/was. Problem is that with time the tacky glue on the back stops being tacky.

 

Methfix are like waterslide transfers except that you use methylated spirits to release the transfer from the backing.

 

Pressfix you position the transfer and press hard, Methfix you slide the transfer off the backing and into its place - more room for adjustment - before sucking up the excess meths with the tip of a tissue.

 

Andy, I think you have confused Pressfix and rub-on types.

 

The Pressfix ones are applied in similar fashion to the Methfix, except that you use plain water to release them from the backing rather than the methylated spirit/water mixture.

 

Rub-on transfers are applied by placing face down on the model then using something like a pencil to rub the back until the transfer is released and stuck firmly to the model.

 

I like the HMRS sheets for small  jobs like renumbering locomotives or coaches. Waterside are easier to use, generally but often have a carrier film which even varnishing won't hide completely. Pressfix, Methfix and rub-down transfers do not have a carrier film, making for a neater finish. Some of ModelMaster's waterslide transfers actually have a carrier that can be peeled off after application to the model, giving the best of both worlds.

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Pressfix - actually does what it says. You just press the "transfer" onto the model and a sticky material on the back holds it in place until the model is varnished and everything is fixed. This is just like Letraset if you know what that is/was. Problem is that with time the tacky glue on the back stops being tacky.

 

Methfix are like waterslide transfers except that you use methylated spirits to release the transfer from the backing.

 

Pressfix you position the transfer and press hard, Methfix you slide the transfer off the backing and into its place - more room for adjustment - before sucking up the excess meths with the tip of a tissue.

Yes, the methfix transfers do become dried out after a period of time but that is not a problem. Just recoat them using a good quality sable brush or as I do an airbrush. After all the tacky is only a thinned down french polish. wait until it has dried thoughly and use as normal.

 

Use white french polish from Squires and thin 50:50 with meths. (That's why you use meths to fix them to the model)

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For the user I'd say the main difference is that waterslide need to be applied over a gloss surface, otherwise you are very likely to see carrier film, and you then need a matt or satin varnish to take away the rather unnatural shiny look. By contrast Pressfix or Rub-on can go straight on to a satin or matt finish and should stick without any problem. So you've saved possibly two varnish coats, and the potential difficulties that can arise when these misbehave.

 

John.

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I generally use HMRS pressfix, especially for jobs that are painted with acrylics, which meths can cause to soften, leaving a witness mark. My own collection, painted in enamels, will however mostly be lettered with methfix, as these are thinner than the equivalent pressfix types, & are the only transfers which in my opinion really look as if they are painted on, like many of the pre-group & some 'big four' companies applied their insignia. I do occasionally use waterslide types for convenience, but have never found them entirely satisfactory for top-quality work...

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