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T9's (pleural) A brace in fact!


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It's turned out ok. I've got the weight up to 8oz which is not really enough. Could some one let me know what the Hornby T9 weighs?

 

 

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Whether the cost, time and difficulty of these Finney kits is worth it is open to debate. I must say that I much prefer a good old chunky whitemetal job with etched cab and footplate! At the least, I would prefer a nice cast boiler/firebox/smokebox. Still, it's value for money in view of the build time.

 

 

In 00 this kit is not ideal. There are too many parts which require modification. It's a P4 kit.

 

And even in 00 the clearances are prototypically tight so beware!

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Still looks marvelous, great work.

So start to finish, aside from the lunchtime distractions, how mant hours do you think this sucker took?

 

Neil

 

 

Time, when modelling, has no meaning for me. It's my time. The only time when I am truly alone without a care in the world! It's the best time!biggrin.gif

 

The tender is overcomplicated IMHO. Again, there is a fair bit of work to do to get the axleboxes down to fit 00 axles. I've gone for the American system of live loco/live tender.

 

A have enjoyed building it. But whether it represents a better model than the Finecast if you want an engine that can pull all day and all night I am not so sure. Far too expensive and fiddly. Mind you, it will not be the last Finney I build!

 

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It's turned out ok. I've got the weight up to 8oz which is not really enough. Could some one let me know what the Hornby T9 weighs?

Just put my narrow-cab Hornby 729 on the kitchen scales - 5 ozs, loco only.

 

Your model looks admirable, as is your fortitude and pluck (not one for Professor Spooner) in turning that pile of shims into such a fine model.

 

My Hornby one cost me ??60 on ebay, in mint condition with no visible wear on the wheeltreads. It pulls 6 Maunsells and two Vans C with no trouble whatever, as do my two widecab Hornby versions, and few of us have layouts that permit longer trains than that. Your 8 ozs should pull a few coaches, even if they are, like the loco, made of metal rather than Chinese plastic!

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Just put my narrow-cab Hornby 729 on the kitchen scales - 5 ozs, loco only.

 

Your model looks admirable, as is your fortitude and pluck (not one for Professor Spooner) in turning that pile of shims into such a fine model.

 

My Hornby one cost me ??60 on ebay, in mint condition with no visible wear on the wheeltreads. It pulls 6 Maunsells and two Vans C with no trouble whatever, as do my two widecab Hornby versions, and few of us have layouts that permit longer trains than that. Your 8 ozs should pull a few coaches, even if they are, like the loco, made of metal rather than Chinese plastic!

 

 

Unfortunately, my Finney can't even pull it's own tender at the moment!!!angry.gif I'm adding lead but I fear that the compensation system puts too much weight on the bogie rather than the drivers. I dont think I'll be able to get enough weight into it's rear end to match the pulling power of a Hornby.

 

Coaled up and ready to go!

 

 

 

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Unfortunately, my Finney can't even pull it's own tender at the moment!!!angry.gif I'm adding lead but I fear that the compensation system puts too much weight on the bogie rather than the drivers. I dont think I'll be able to get enough weight into it's rear end to match the pulling power of a Hornby.

 

Most tender locos I build now I would put a large motor in the tender with drive to the loco via carden shafts, you can then pop much more weight in the loco where you need it over the driving wheels

 

David

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Most tender locos I build now I would put a large motor in the tender with drive to the loco via carden shafts, you can then pop much more weight in the loco where you need it over the driving wheels

 

David

 

I don't agree Dave IMHO. I pay for a kit that should be, when built, fit for purpose and designed for the job it is supposed to do. I do not expect to have to modify it's drive in order to get it to work as supplied in the box.

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