T9's (pleural) A brace in fact!

[Metropolitan]

I built this cooking Finecast version of a T9 (widecab) a while back:

 

 

Ok, its a bit basic and chunky but it runs fine although it needs more weight for traction. (What' the heaviest base metal available at a reasonable cost????). I like it!! Simple, cheap and fit for purpose. All in cast whitemetal.

 

So what do you get for more than double the cost? This is what:

 

 

 

 

It's a Martin Finney, Thousands of fiddly brass parts. But is it worth the extra cost and effort? We will see.....

[Horsetan]

Think this is what you wanted to show, but the coding was a bit out:

 

[Guest Belgian]

Think this is what you wanted to show, but the coding was a bit out:

 

 

So's the numbering of the model - wide-cab T9s were all numbered in the 300s!

 

JE

[jwealleans]

Never mind the details, it's just nice to see John back and building again. From what I gather regarding MF kits, it may take him until beyond Sunday lunchtime to finish this....

 

Any chnace of a comparison to the new Hornby offering when you've finished, John?

[Horsetan]

.... From what I gather regarding MF kits, it may take him until beyond Sunday lunchtime to finish this....

 

Ah, but which week? (In my case, it would be "which year"?)

[Metropolitan]

Think this is what you wanted to show, but the coding was a bit out:

 

 

Ta VMI for that!!! Editing is tricky cos I am moderated.

 

JE - You say that all wide cabs were numbered in the three hundreds?? Well, not on my layout they ain't!! (I ran out of 3's when transferring it!! )

 

It's taken a month of Sundays just to read all the instructions for the Finney. Even though there are a million parts it shouldn't take too long as there is no outside gear and I may well omit the silly overlay thingys... The best thing about it is the certainty that the parts will fit together without any fettling necessary. What worries me is getting enough weight into it for it to be of any use.

[Metropolitan]

Better make a start. The etches are sublime. Note the very fine half etched nibs making removal from the fret very easy. To my mind the fret could do with being a couple of thou thicker IMHO though.

 

As per most instructions just a few common hand tools are required to assemble ones model:

 

 

 

 

 

 

(No,no!! It's not one of those! It's a Taper Reamer!!!)

[Horsetan]

I would have been concerned if it was more.....bullet-nosed

 

 

D'ye not think the full-size saw is a bit of overkill?

[Rob Pulham]

Good to see you back John, I am sure that you will have this Finney kit finished before I finish my Q7 - even with the head start that I have

[Bruciethefish]

Welcome back! I've particularly enjoyed some of your previous contributions, so am looking forward to following this one!

[Metropolitan]

The dilemma:- It's a weight thing.... The kit is designed for P4 with beam compensation. The front bogie bears directly on the frames with the drivers free to wobble. Previous experience tells me that I am going to have trouble enough getting enough weight onto the drivers short of fitting a rubber band round the tyres! So I would normally go for a sprung bogie and the weight balance on the drivers (ie like an 0-4-0)

 

I, however, model (sensibly) in 00. Flexichas bearings and 00 don't mix too well as its a job to squeeze a gearbox and compensation beams between them..... And in any case, compensation is unnecessary in 00 if you can get enough weight into the engine IMHO.

 

However, I've decided to compensate this model because I doubt if there will be any way to spring the bogie. If I don't like it I can always solder 'em up rigid.

 

So it was out with the trusty 'ol jig and with it's help it's a matter of minutes to set a compensated chassis up:..........

 

 

 

 

 

Now I've got to fettle the bearings carefully inside in order to get the gearbox in whilst leaving some surface for the beams to rest on......

 

 

 

But first I've got to Delia our Sunday lunch!

 

EDIT: Spelling, Grammar and plain English

 

PS: Cool!! Edit's are not moderated!!

[Bernard Lamb]

Nice to see you back with a new project John.

There is a metal called Cerobend that is rather heavy. It's main use is in supporting items like pipes during forming. It's main advantage for using as weight in locos is that it melts at around 70 deg C and thus can be removed by immersing the model in very hot water if you manage to get it in the wrong place.

Bernard

[Ravenser]

I've heaof Cerobend being used as whitemetal solder

[Metropolitan]

Thanks for that Bernard. Double R I think. Is it heavier than lead?

 

 

I've modified the bearings to allow the compensation beams to sit against the frames thus allowing the gearbox to be squeezed in:

 

 

 

 

I've got to make up the bogie next.

 

 

Because the above photo is so awful I thought I would post a photo of my new mistress who is giving me a hand with my chassis :

 

 

 

[ullypug]

As someone who's got a Finney T9 sitting the cupboard (bought a long time before Hornby ever announced theirs), I'll be following this with interest.

[Bernard Lamb]

Thanks for that Bernard. Double R I think. Is it heavier than lead?

 

 

 

 

I think it is a bit lighter than lead but it's much more user friendly.I was thinking that with a 4-4-0 loco there might be a bit of trial and error in getting the weight in the right place to obtain the optimum compromise between balance and adhesion. Hence a material that could easily be removed might have an advantage. The spelling I believe depends on which side of the pond you are located and also in which profession. Better leave it at that.

Bernard

[Metropolitan]

Oh no!! Please, please NO!!

 

 

 

 

Actually it's not so bad. By wasting in the frames at the front It goes round my layout OK. The pivot for the bogie is behind it's centre. The drivers will need washering for no side play as the clearances are so tight.

 

A pleasure to build and not difficult such is the accuracy of the parts. Here is the completed (pre detailing) compensated and levelled chassis ( I did add the overlays in the end because they contain brackets for the pipework):

 

 

 

One thing to watch for is that in 00 the bogie axle boxes are too wide and need considerable alteration (not mentioned in the instructions). I also had this problem with Martins Adams Radial.

[Metropolitan]

Before completing the chassis I need to make sure it fits the body, especially with regards to wheel/coupling rod clearances.

 

Martins design for the footplate with it's jig is exemplary. However, there is a big, big downside to his kits IMHO:

 

1) None of the superstructure parts are tabbed. It is too easy to locate them badly.

2)All the parts requiring forming or rolling are half etched. He uses very thin brass anyway so the half etched parts are like tin foil and liable to damage and denting making the model too delicate for general use.

 

It's geat fun to build though!

 

 

[Metropolitan]

Rolling up the smokebox and boiler.:

 

'Mousemat, Bar. Bar, Mousemat'! :............ Don't use fingers or you will be sure to crease the wafer thin etches which is effectively the end of proceedings!!

 

 

 

 

I've gone for the early Maunsell rebuilt variety of T9.... A few more snap head rivets, large smokebox with wings sawn off, Eastliegh superheater and stovepipe chimey etc etc. Excactly like the Hornby Exclusive Collectors T9 in LSWR Liver in fact.

[Horsetan]

.... I thought I would post a photo of my new mistress who is giving me a hand with my chassis :

 

 

 

 

 

Is that the lovely Samantha from I'm Sorry I Haven't A Clue ?

[Metropolitan]

Is that the lovely Samantha from I'm Sorry I Haven't A Clue ?

 

Could be!! She did mention that she missed being able to blow Humph's whistle?!

 

 

Now that the boiler is fixed to the footplate I can get on with finishing the chassis now that I am satisfied that it fits.

 

 

 

 

 

To be honest, I dont like farting aroung with these flimsy half etched boilers. I'd rather have a nice cast one.

[Captain Kernow]

Still planning on the working inside valve gear, John?

[Metropolitan]

Still planning on the working inside valve gear, John?

 

Sadly, it turns out; there ain't no room for 'em in 00! Anyone want a set of MF inside gear for a T9?? Think I'll make do with just chucking a bit of red plastic between the frames........

[Metropolitan]

And now begins the unequal struggle to get the chassis to fit the body:

 

 

 

And it wouldn't.

 

 

To be fair to the kit it does specify Ultrascale wheels and Portescap with modified gearbox. But I've used Markits wheels and DJH/Mashima gearbox. (I dont think you can still get Portescaps?)

 

First up, I couldn't for the life of me see why the body would not sit down on the body squarely. Hours of head scratching later it dawned on me that this was a P4 kit!!. The answer was simple. The bracket at the rear of the footplate needed filing back to fit between my 00 frames. This is not mentioned in the instructions.

 

Then the fun began.... Of course all the rods and pins were whacking the splashers, valances and everything in site. Patience is a virtue they say!

 

And Lo! After much careful paring and filing down and hacking at the gearbox.... Bingo!!

 

 

 

 

You get some nice lead weights provided in the kit to fill the boiler. Even so the thing is far too light and there is precious little space to add any more weight. I fear that this loco will be lucky just to pull its own weight let alone any stock. It will be a shame if it ends up being no more than an ornament.

[Metropolitan]

It's definitely a P4 Kit!! The cab parts just do not work with the 00 frames. Nothing fits between the frames and the compensating beams. It's a P4 kit period. The cab splashers and backhead and floor are useless in 00.

 

I gave up trying. No doubt a demon solderer and scratch builder could have done better but I have pugged in this hunk of lead instead which gives clearance to the wheels and added weight. Now to tidy and scrub up the body prior to detailing it.

 

 

 

 

Horrid but necessary?