coachmann Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Edited Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Larry What type of Loctitie you use. I presume it gives a better bond than superglue ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted February 1, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 1, 2014 Hi Larry, good to see you doing a bit of bashing a loco for a change, I think your last tutorial was the conversion of the Bachy MR compound to a standard LMS one? Then Bachy brought out the LMS version! You wait and see, you'll get your LHD 4F done and Bachy will bring out their version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 As ever Larry, simply awesome modelling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted February 3, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2014 Hi Larry, it's good to see you're going to have a Rowsley engine on your layout, it makes me feel quite at home. I have three 4fs, two old Airfix/Dapol ones which I have converted to loco driven ones and a Bachy one, which is due a Peak line makeover. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Good work, Larry. It looks like you also tackled the tender brake gear as it doesn't appear to be in line with the frames on your photos. What did you use to do this? Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocp Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 The 4F with the Johnson/Deeley tender has the brake gear tender chassis, it's good to see that the J11 and the fowler tender have them in line with the wheels. With the Fowler tender, Bachmann must have changed the tooling as on my Compound and Patriot, the brake gear is not in line with the wheels, so top marks for Bachmann with that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocp Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Boy, they do jump around on those Bachmann tenders! All my Deeley/Johnson tenders, moulded on side frames Patriot & Compound, moulded on side frames. Jubilee, in line with wheels Crab, in line with wheels. This has actually surprised me, two different fowler tender chassis toolings? And lovely work on the 4f's and J11, as usual Larry. I have just been reqding through your other great thread with the Compounds and B1 etc, lovely stuff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 ...Didn't need touching Nick, as the brakes are in line on the J11 and 4F tenders... All very strange. I obviously went for the wrong tenders as both my 3F and 4F with Johnson tenders have the brakes in line with the frames. At least the 7F has them in the right place. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 You're right. This prompted me to look at my Bachmann Fowler locos :- LMS Compound, brakes in line with wheels. Patriot, Brakes moulded in side-frames. LMS 2P (Hornby) ..Tender bought from Bachmann... Brakes in line with wheels. LMS Patriot, brakes moulded in side-frames Fowler 7F 0-8-0, Tender bought from Bachmann... Brakes in line with wheels. Bachmann Crab, brakes in line with wheels. Until you want to convert them to EM or P4! Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I think you will find that EM wheels (uppermost set) are still in line with the brake shoes. Tenders with shoes moulded as part of the side frames are a different kettle of fish of course, though I would expect anyone working in EM or P4 would remedy the latter situation no bother. P4 & EM are about 22 mm over the outer wheel faces, in OO it's 19mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocp Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Brilliant Coach! The Duke's face already looks a ton better. A quick question, where are you getting the etched deflectors for the Duke from? I can't seem to get any anywhere sadly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
92220 Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Interesting to see your progress with this one Larry. I've stockpiled an old Crownline conversion kit that includes these bespoke DoG deflectors ready to use when the time comes. I used some Regency III (old Jackson Evans) Brit deflectors carefully trimmed for my Golden Arrow Duke, but I'm hopeful I can make a better fist of it second time around. There are also some nice BR1J etched sides: Look forward to seeing how you get on. Iain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocp Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Thanks for that Coach, I appreciate it, will fire an email off now. If not and you are planning on selling those surplus etches, let us all know! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edcayton Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 I will be interested to see this one finished Larry, to me there is something "not right" about the look of the Hornby model as it comes. Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 I think you will find that EM wheels (uppermost set) are still in line with the brake shoes. ... There's not a lot of room for the wheelset to slide even in EM. I think you might be surprised just how mods are needed to change a simple thing like this, although a tender might be easier than the loco. I've just finished converting two Bachmann Cl108 dmus to P4 - no compensation, not needed. But the brakegear stopped the wheels from turning and there isn't enough room on the Bachmann bogies to move the brakes. The units are running without! I like the model, very nice. Have you ever thought of using EM wheelsets set to an OO back to back? They would look a lot nicer and they would still stay on your track. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 I wonder if you could shave a bit off the brake shoes if they touch the wheel rims? ...There's not a lot you can do when the brakes are interfering with the flanges! Best to leave it for now, the units are ready to go for Watford Finescale, after that I'm going to look again at the bogies; the Black Beetles arrived yesterday for a future rebuild. I'm not happy with the Bachmann power train or the extraordinarily complex pick-up arrangements. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted February 8, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2014 An inspiring master-class for anybody wanting to improve their DoG. A bit late for my period though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 For buffers S A C Martin mentioned ; >> I have used thus far X9599 (coupling rods), and will be using X6592 (rear pony truck wheels), X9313R (class 31 buffers), X9609 (Brit detail pack) and am debating using X9602 (tender frames). << but I'm not sure if these are the oval front versions, nor his supplier. I'm very impressed by your work with scalpel, drill and wire. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted February 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2014 I do like those smokebox door handles Coach - I got some similar ones many years ago but they seem to be impossible to find nowadays and the modern ones all look as if they've been on a forced diet although they might well be more to scale. This is one of those areas where I suspect impression counts over exact scale fidelity. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 For buffers S A C Martin mentioned ; >> I have used thus far X9599 (coupling rods), and will be using X6592 (rear pony truck wheels), X9313R (class 31 buffers), X9609 (Brit detail pack) and am debating using X9602 (tender frames). << but I'm not sure if these are the oval front versions, nor his supplier. I'm very impressed by your work with scalpel, drill and wire. Rob They are the oval front version, my supplier was Peter's Spares. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 It is only through doing this minor upgrading job on the 'Duke' that it comes home just how things have changed in the hobby. Funny you should say that coach. I was reading your post last night and thinking that very thing. What you're doing reminded me of hacking about Hornby Brits, Patriots etc., from the '80s to put right some pretty gross errors. At least with the Duke it seems to be a pretty good starting point. I'm enjoying the thread, great stuff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Funny you should say that coach. I was reading your post last night and thinking that very thing. What you're doing reminded me of hacking about Hornby Brits, Patriots etc., from the '80s to put right some pretty gross errors. At least with the Duke it seems to be a pretty good starting point. I'm enjoying the thread, great stuff. Bodywise, it's definitely the best starting point one could hope for. It's excellent shape wise, with agreeably few errors (though if the smkoebox overhang is counted as an "error" it's not a fixable one and for me at any rate, not a deal breaker). The chassis is the concern for me though I must put up my hands and say that everyone else's experience of their Duke models running is very different to mine. I may have "as built" Duke as opposed the excellent performer from preservation I suspect…! Larry, thank you for sharing your work with us. Those bogie wheels really are a significant improvement, I will have to look out for a set. Are they a straight fit into the bogie frames? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted February 10, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2014 Removing that coupling pocket has made a world of a difference to the front end and bogie. Any chance on being able to say where you got the replacement tender from Coach? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 That tender is brilliant! Beautiful. When are you going to scratch-build MN 35002 sorry 21C2 which would be nice in wartime black or Malachite...? As a challenge I might photo-edit a version in wartime black and announce it somewhere.... Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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