Rob Pulham Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 (edited) Along side lining the A3 I have also taken the plunge and lined Severn - for those that don't remember it, I scratch built it in 2010 and painted it blue but I decided to give it the finish that it really deserves - although I doubt that Colonel Stephens would have splashed out on lining the wheels..... I have gone a bit mad with the photos because I am really pleased with my efforts on this one. All the lining has been done with bow pen and compasses using Humbrol enamels. I made a couple of jigs to assist with the lining and I will take some photos of them tomorrow. Edited March 19, 2014 by Rob Pulham 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rs4 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 VERY impressive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) Beautiful work, absolutely stunning, I'll look forward to seeing the jigs as the lining looks excellent. Edited February 7, 2014 by Nelson Jackson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 As promised these are the pens and jigs that I used to do the lining job on Severn. Although I have a Haff pen and compass they are not as fine as those in the photo, the pen is a Kern head that was attached to a strange compass so I made a new handle from some suitably sized brass tube. The compasses are an unknown German make that I picked up in a mix set with the Kern one fr a few quid on Ebay some time ago. I used one of the emery board type files that you get as a free gift each time you place an order with Scale Hardware - they have four different grades of abrasives and the too finest are perfect for honing the pens and compasses. The flat brass with the washer on the end is for creating the corners The plastic card curve was used to create the lozenge shape around the name plates The wire with the small shoe is a dog legged skate that replaces the straight pin in the bow compass to allow me to do the curves on the splashers fronts etc. by reaching above and beyond the rivets on the edge of the splasher tops. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikks Posted February 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2014 Beautiful workmanship Rob no wonder you're happy with it Rgds....Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 I have done a bit more lining, this time on my A3 chassis. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 I am now getting more confident with my weathering and although I have posted some photos on my workbench I thought that I would add some here too. I have been working on this 7mm Parkside Bolster wagon. All the weathering has been achieved with acrylics and talc. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Hello Rob, What a cracking job, that wagon looks real, and the steel rods are realistic too... George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Thanks George, From being frightened to have a go I have very quickly moved into the what can I try next arena. I suppose it was the same as when I first learned to solder I couldn't get what I had been scared of but I was still reluctant to have a go at weathering...... Hopefully I won't be so reluctant to face my next modelling fear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Continuing the Bolster wagon theme, here is another heavily weathered LNER example. This time a Parkisde LNER 20 ton Hopper wagon. I have a couple of the DJH/Piercy kits for a couple of these too when I get to them. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 I posted the bulk of the shots of the last wagon in the current line up on my workbech but here are a couple of shots that didn't make it over there. 1923...... Some time later...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Moving on from weathering wagons I thought that I would try my hand at a loco using the many photos in "The Art of Weathering" by Martyn Welch. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Still working away on the painting and weathering projects here are a few shots for those that don't frequent the workbench threads. This becomes this: And this. Becomes this. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Beautiful weathering and the detail is fantastic, I wish one day I can be as good as you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 Thanks Nelson, Although I have been building and painting kit's for a few years, I only started to weather stock myself from March this year. So you haven't much catching up to do on that score. In terms of painting, the best advice I took was to buy an air brush with a 0.5mm needle instead of the more usual 0.3mm type that is supplied as standard with many air brushes. The finish quality of my painting has improved tremendously since getting one and I haven't looked back. I prefer to use acrylic paints because I suffer from paint fumes from spirit based paints and the slightly bigger nozzle size seems to cope with the acrylics much better. For those paints that need it, I thin them with Tamiya acrylic thinners until they are a bit like milk in consistency (for spraying where possible I use Vallejo Model Air that come already thinned for spraying - you just need to find colours that suit from their sometime garish names). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 I recently built an LNER Lowmac that featured on my workbench thread it has now been painted and weathered. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Some more weathered wagons roll off the bench - more details on them can be found on my work bench thread. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 As part of my latest build I decided to have a go at making a shunter's pole before I knew it I had painted it too. The photos are cruel close ups but you get the idea. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 I have done a little more weathering this weekend this time on another of the Parkside backlog. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi Rob, Just been reading through your thread and admiring your weathering skills. There was one image which kind of glared out at me though, the bolster wagon with round steel bars. The weathering is excellent but it's a touch overloaded. Excuse the maths, it's just to demonstrate the point, Guesstimating the bars as representing 3" (.25') bars, 20' long. Their volume, in cubic feet, is Pi x Diam x length, so 3.142 x .25 x 20 = 15.71 cubic feet. A cubic foot of steel weighs around 500lbs, so each bar would weigh 7855lbs, or 3.4 tons. There's about 60 bars on your bolster, in excess of 200 tons! If your bars represent 2" bars, that's still a load weight of 140 tons. On the bright side, you've now enough nicely modelled bars for another 10 wagons. I have a particular interest in modelling the steel industry and often see steel carrying models overloaded, people underestimate just how heavy blocks of steel are. Hope you don't mind me pointing it out, seems a pity to spoil an otherwise excellent model by giving it a load which would have crushed it.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi Rob, Just been reading through your thread and admiring your weathering skills. There was one image which kind of glared out at me though, the bolster wagon with round steel bars. The weathering is excellent but it's a touch overloaded. Excuse the maths, it's just to demonstrate the point, Guesstimating the bars as representing 3" (.25') bars, 20' long. Their volume, in cubic feet, is Pi x Diam x length, so 3.142 x .25 x 20 = 15.71 cubic feet. A cubic foot of steel weighs around 500lbs, so each bar would weigh 7855lbs, or 3.4 tons. There's about 60 bars on your bolster, in excess of 200 tons! If your bars represent 2" bars, that's still a load weight of 140 tons. On the bright side, you've now enough nicely modelled bars for another 10 wagons. I have a particular interest in modelling the steel industry and often see steel carrying models overloaded, people underestimate just how heavy blocks of steel are. Hope you don't mind me pointing it out, seems a pity to spoil an otherwise excellent model by giving it a load which would have crushed it.... Hi Arthur, Far from minding I am very grateful for you to take the interest and the time to post the reasoning behind what you suggest. I never thought about what they might actually weigh and I will attempt to modify them - I say attempt because I cannot remember how I fastened them together. In the worst case, I still have the rest of the pack of skewers to make more if they won't separate. Thanks again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Thanks Rob, just pleased that you found the info. of some interest. I did some similar calculations for the steel carrying fleet on the BCB project layout and have done some for steel tube for the forthcoming 4mm Bachmann tube wagon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 Still tinkering with the wagon weathering backlog, the next up is an LMS Steel Bodies vent van. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 I mentioned in one of my threads that I would do a posting showing some of the stages of my weathering processes Starting from this: I started by giving the body work with a coat of Ronseal satin hardglaze the water based variety. A couple of days later I coated the entire body work in a 'grot' coat made up from Vallejo Flat earth, Dark Sea Grey and a hint of black. Once again I left it for a few days- I had done this much while up at the cottage but the rest from this point was done at home. Next I started to remove the 'grot' coat using a flat ended brush dipped in Meths a bit at a time. At this stage I left it for a few more days while I decided if I had finished. I decided that I wasn't, so I did a bit more using the same technique of flat brush and meths. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 With the other van that I built and painted at the same time I tried a different technique. Here is a reminder of what it looked like at the outset. This then had 2 coats of Johnsons Klear (the original variety) brush painted on and left over night. Next I mixed up a mixture of Vallejo 'Dark Fleshtones' which was the colour that I used for the bauxite finish and my mix of 'grot' described in the last post. The body work was liberally coated with it and again it was left to dry while I got home from the cottage. Then I set to with the falt brush and meths.... The eagle eyed amongst you will notice that I managed to knock of the steam pipes while weathering and again no door handles or guard irons...... This has given a completely different look to the vehicle than the other one so I now have a few different techniques under my belt. Now I need to master subtle.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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