RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 7, 2018 Newton's finest and can I get people to sign this petition to save the old shed please. https://www.change.org/p/save-our-shed-save-our-historic-gwr-shed-from-demolition Done Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndg910 Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 Ditto. As someone in the restoration of historic buildings I will also post to Linkedin and bring about awareness within the heritage building family. It’s no different from St Austell footbridge - one of the last remaining GWR footbridges in Cornwall that Network Rail have just had delisted so it can be removed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steaming_chris Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 Brace yourselves... I've done a relatively clean loco... ... a GWR Star no less 4012_rh.jpg 4012_lhran.jpg It nearly ended up in USAAF/RAF desert camouflage too Great paint job on the Stars James. Did you change the wheel sets, as the wheels look "fine detailed (or I need stronger glasses)Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2018 Great paint job on the Stars James. Did you change the wheel sets, as the wheels look "fine detailed (or I need stronger glasses) Regards No, I didn't change the wheel sets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steaming_chris Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 No, I didn't change the wheel sets. Mmmm that's got me thinking that in the future a castle interloper from Landore may be seen at 87B. I'll start saving my pennies Regards, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 possible contender for best ever... pic edited After having given up all hope of finding either 72000 or 72005 , having sold both of mine in 2012 or thereabouts, both turned up last week at fair prices, one of them brand new at list.... proving that if you don't look very hard for something, it will finds its way to you anyway. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted February 9, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2018 I have to say that Hornby have done a decent job on the Adams Radial, along with the other ex L&SWR locos in their stable. Next up for weathering is a T9 or two. Rob. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 Truly superb photos, nhy581. I like the air and uncluttered simplicity. Meanwhile I have been tempted by a pristine BR black C1 Ivatt Atlantic, the NRM version, and just when I was trying to absorb the cost of that someone offered me a perfect West Country 'Wilton' and I wondered how many of them Hornby made. They seem so common yet at 40 quid it was hard to say no... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 11, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2018 Next blog entry is up http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/135/entry-20485-yet-another-big-build-airfix-124th-scale-supermarine-spitfire-mk-vb-tropical-part-3/ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 (edited) Nice stuff, toboldlygo, but also on the subject of plastic details... I am seriously wondering about Hornby super-detailing. Yesterday I received a new, or 'as new' (old shop stock), Hornby R2846 Clan Buchanan BR 72000, a nice 'find' on an auction site, not Ebay, a local NZ one called Trademe. I noticed that the box had been opened, slight marks on sleeve, a very slight bruising on one end flap,, and that the tissue paper was not perfect, but all looked ok except the windscreen separate piece between the cab windows was flat against the body on the driver's side. Well, being old shop stock it had presumably been opened to show to customers. Fair enough.. I set the model on a clean surface, well-cushioned to keep the whistle assembly safe! and touched the flattened windscreen glass gently to see if it would stay attached if pulled slightly towards a realistic angle.. No, it fell off, so I saved it to the clean surface, turned the model on its side (surely we have ALL been here?) and placed the loose windscreen piece adjacent to the correct spot. I cannot use tweezers to hold or place this tiny part, it is too dangerous, for me anyway, pop, it's gone into the blue yonder, anyway it sat just by the frame between the cab windows, lying on the front window 'glass'. Fine, a tiniest touch of glue o the window frame , then slide it into place with screwdriver tip and it should be very close. Yes! I got it perfect, except it was still flat. I touched it again and it fell into the cab. It was not visible inside the cab. I had great lighting, but no, it would not be seen. It hadn't fallen right through either, I couldn't see it anywhere. It had traces of glue on it, now 'gone off', but no amount of searching could find it. Why had I ever bothered to try! ? Further turning of the model and I was holding it gently with finger grip on rh and lh running boards just ahead of the firebox, then 'crack' the exhaust steam injector pipe fell off. At first it was hard to work out which way this fits, but reference to lovely Hattons photos showed the correct orientation, and there is a tiny pin under the running board to, but it appears that it is connected mostly by prayer, not glue. I have successfully placed the pipe back in what looks like the right place but there was no reassuring click as it went back. It stays there only by the will of the gods. I should mention at this point that I only have a numb claw for a right hand (injuries from accidents) , and a good left hand, but I am 'right-handed', and I don't have the dexterity of many or most modellers. I have nearly given up. I might cut a vertical strip of clear plastic from some packaging to make a new windscreen glass, so I don't have to look at the bare green paint where the lost glass should go. Silver Sidelines I think puts ten such jobs behind him before breakfast, and Coachmann solders door handles onto carriages with apparent ease, but not me. I wouldn't even be able to hold a door handle with fingers or implements without certain mental breakdown. Have other modellers got better techniques or advice about these small parts? The gentleman who has replaced 4 motors in his 30842 S15 is taking a break from modelling, and I'm wondering how to stay sane myself given that just removing an RTR 00 model from its packaging looks to me as if it is beyond all but the most gifted. I'll probably feel better tomorrow. The windscreen glass piece is so small and light (it sticks to a finger by surface tension) that it might turn up in some freak lighting conditions, or on a sock, or three rooms away, in three weeks.... better, I think to try and make a new one, or give up and accept that Hornby RTR models are not capable of ordinary handling by such as shop staff, or reasonably careful buyers. I notice that blue box locos like 5MTs and 9Fs don't have windscreen side-glasses, perhaps wisely! Well, I feel a little better now.... Edited February 14, 2018 by robmcg 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 (edited) Rob. I feel your pain. I am not disabled, but I am officially clumsy. I have an assessment from a work redeployment exercise putting my coordination at the bottom quartile of the range seen in the population, with a file note saying that under no circumstances should I retrain for a manual trade. I can still do finescale modelling, but many operations need planning and low cunning. Not everything is as irreducibly hard as people make out. Those tiny springs in 4mm-scale buffers? I can fit those without problems because I worked out a technique that works for me. Others, who do really dextrous work, won't even try. Tweezers: you lose parts from them, I lose parts from them, because they are the wrong tool for the job. Pointy tweezers are specialised for gripping things that are flat and somewhat resilient, so that the points sink in a little and give grip. They are pants for picking up small, round, hard things. There is probably a better tool somewhere, but I don't have one yet. Self-grip tweezers are slightly better, provided that you get a set with decently-ground gripping bits. Having a constant force holding the part is better than a variable force from fingers. Surgical clamps are an extreme case of self-grip tweezers. I have a tiny set with narrow (~2.5mm) jaws and about 75mm long overall. They were from an el-crappo brand but work perfectly well. There are tools that pick up parts by suction. I haven't tried them, but they may be of use. Small bits are better gripped in pliers (enough grip that the item can't twist in the jaws as it is fitted), but there is often no suitable handle for pilers to grip. Therefore, when I make a small part, I often include some sacrificial material to act as a handle, then cut or file or grind it off afterwards. In general, if a small part is robustly soldered into place, it will be easier to file it to its final shape after fitting. This doesn't typically work with glued parts because the glue is rarely string enough. Speaking of glue, much that is on general sale recently is very bad. It's worth worth trying different makes to find something that works. Currently, I'm using Everbuild "Industrial" cyanoacrylate and Devcon "Home" 5-minute epoxy, both of which I buy on-line. None of the part-holding tactics work if the main assembly is skating about the bench each time you touch it. (Working with one hand this effect is magnified, I guess.) Therefore, it is vital to have some way of clamping the assembly down without harming it. A decent swivel vice is a good start. I sometimes uses an angler's fly-tying vice, which is a small collet vice on a bench stand. I got this in a sale for small money. And the buffer springs? The rule is never, ever try and pick them up with tweezers (or anything else, really) if you value your sanity. Instead, use the tweezers to manoeuvre a spring on its side on a clean, flat surface. Then put the jaws of the tweezers on either side of the length of the spring so that it can't roll or twist away. Then, hold the buffer by its head with the tail pointing slightly down from horizontal, and introduce the tail very gently into the end of the spring, without lifting the spring from the work surface. If the tail goes in cleanly, putting a finger against the free end of the spring it will then slide slide it up the buffer tail and you've won. If it doesn't go in cleanly, then back off and try again. This is, of course, a two-handed technique. If I had to do it one-handed, I would make up a little jig that does the work of the hand holding the tweezers. Edited February 14, 2018 by Guy Rixon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2018 Nice stuff, toboldlygo, but also on the subject of plastic details... I am seriously wondering about Hornby super-detailing. Yesterday I received a new, or 'as new' (old shop stock), Hornby R2846 Clan Buchanan BR 72000, a nice 'find' on an auction site, not Ebay, a local NZ one called Trademe. I noticed that the box had been opened, slight marks on sleeve, a very slight bruising on one end flap,, and that the tissue paper was not perfect, but all looked ok except the windscreen separate piece between the cab windows was flat against the body on the driver's side. Well, being old shop stock it had presumably been opened to show to customers. Fair enough.. I set the model on a clean surface, well-cushioned to keep the whistle assembly safe! and touched the flattened windscreen glass gently to see if it would stay attached if pulled slightly towards a realistic angle.. No, it fell off, so I saved it to the clean surface, turned the model on its side (surely we have ALL been here?) and placed the loose windscreen piece adjacent to the correct spot. I cannot use tweezers to hold or place this tiny part, it is too dangerous, for me anyway, pop, it's gone into the blue yonder, anyway it sat just by the frame between the cab windows, lying on the front window 'glass'. Fine, a tiniest touch of glue o the window frame , then slide it into place with screwdriver tip and it should be very close. Yes! I got it perfect, except it was still flat. I touched it again and it fell into the cab. It was not visible inside the cab. I had great lighting, but no, it would not be seen. It hadn't fallen right through either, I couldn't see it anywhere. It had traces of glue on it, now 'gone off', but no amount of searching could find it. Why had I ever bothered to try! ? Further turning of the model and I was holding it gently with finger grip on rh and lh running boards just ahead of the firebox, then 'crack' the exhaust steam injector pipe fell off. At first it was hard to work out which way this fits, but reference to lovely Hattons photos showed the correct orientation, and there is a tiny pin under the running board to, but it appears that it is connected mostly by prayer, not glue. I have successfully placed the pipe back in what looks like the right place but there was no reassuring click as it went back. It stays there only by the will of the gods. I should mention at this point that I only have a numb claw for a right hand (injuries from accidents) , and a good left hand, but I am 'right-handed', and I don't have the dexterity of many or most modellers. I have nearly given up. I might cut a vertical strip of clear plastic from some packaging to make a new windscreen glass, so I don't have to look at the bare green paint where the lost glass should go. Silver Sidelines I think puts ten such jobs behind him before breakfast, and Coachmann solders door handles onto carriages with apparent ease, but not me. I wouldn't even be able to hold a door handle with fingers or implements without certain mental breakdown. Have other modellers got better techniques or advice about these small parts? The gentleman who has replaced 4 motors in his 30842 S15 is taking a break from modelling, and I'm wondering how to stay sane myself given that just removing an RTR 00 model from its packaging looks to me as if it is beyond all but the most gifted. I'll probably feel better tomorrow. The windscreen glass piece is so small and light (it sticks to a finger by surface tension) that it might turn up in some freak lighting conditions, or on a sock, or three rooms away, in three weeks.... better, I think to try and make a new one, or give up and accept that Hornby RTR models are not capable of ordinary handling by such as shop staff, or reasonably careful buyers. I notice that blue box locos like 5MTs and 9Fs don't have windscreen side-glasses, perhaps wisely! Well, I feel a little better now.... My 'secret weapon' is a cocktail stick with some blu-tack wrapped round one end. I started using it for applying etched shed-code & smoke box number plates, but is equally useful for small plastic components that have a tendency to disappear into the carpet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 Rob. I feel your pain. I am not disabled, but I am officially clumsy. I have an assessment from a work redeployment exercise putting my coordination at the bottom quartile of the range seen in the population, with a file note saying that under no circumstances should I retrain for a manual trade. I can still do finescale modelling, but many operations need planning and low cunning. ... Thank Guy, I love the phrase 'many operations need planning and low cunning'. When before my injuries I had two good hands I fancy that I had quite high skills in coordination and dexterity but not at the very top, but I was severely right-handed, and it has been converting to left hand where the planning and low cunning come in, I have devised ways to remove engines from cars and dismantle and reassemble them from the wheelchair and short periods on the ground, an basically restore them, without assistance even for things like placing an XK Jaguar crankshaft into its bearing-cradle, but I never really got things like fine soldering skills transferred to left hand (gawd I even made a living making small electrical components for a year! back in 1978). I find that even opening an RTR model can have challenges, but the best people here accommodate all levels of skill and experience, so in general it is a good forum, and I really appreciate your ideas, and the toothpick/bluetac idea of toboldlygo. I have never had any success from cyano glues, can't seem to control the fine placement of it and the relevant parts in the right timeframe, and sometimes use epoxy, but usually it's very small amounts of poly glue which although it causes terminal damage to parts like external brake rodding has been my main method. I shall try to cut out a new cab windscreen glass thing from clear plastic when I am feeling bold and reckless sometime soon. btw I look at the new and s/h models for sale and most have bits missing or misaligned, when I do photo editing there are vast numbers of bits which I move or change, even though this is seen as dishonest photography by some. cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 here is a Clan from 1964 and I thought they were green (pic from Wikipedia) and my Clan with a photo-edited cab side screen , it's actually a piece of sellotape. , given the above I wonder if I had needed to bother! Anyway, it gives an idea for weathering! <g> 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2018 here is a Clan from 1964 and I thought they were green (pic from Wikipedia) and my Clan with a photo-edited cab side screen , it's actually a piece of sellotape. , given the above I wonder if I had needed to bother! Anyway, it gives an idea for weathering! <g> 72005_Clan_Chester_General_1ab_r1200.jpg Img_8901abcd_r1200.jpg Weathering? It looks more like an attempt at camouflage Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 Weathering? It looks more like an attempt at camouflage It certainly looks like black possibly lined paint but I don't recall reading that this was done in the 62-65 period that the later 5 or 6 Clans ran. I could try a mix of Humbol satin and matt blacks if the model wasn't so damned rare! (I received 72005 yesterday, yet to open) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 here is weathered 72008 which I used to think maybe a little too grubby but in view of the photo a couple of posts back, maybe the weathering is pretty close. Great model! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railroadbill Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 My 'secret weapon' is a cocktail stick with some blu-tack wrapped round one end. I started using it for applying etched shed-code & smoke box number plates, but is equally useful for small plastic components that have a tendency to disappear into the carpet! I bought a pack of cocktail sticks from Tescos, 50p or something, which have lasted a long while. I've used them for applying drops of cyano glue, filler or spots of touch up paint etc. Also found them useful for scraping odd bits of paint off, or removing some types of printed numbers on stock, since they have a soft tip. Blutack very useful, I've used it with wooden stirrer sticks, available at any coffee shop for the price of a coffee. Some blutack on one end holds a component or model figure or car body etc for painting - I can hold stick for spraying in the garden or garage on a warm day, then stick the other end of the stirrer into some expanded polystyrene to hold the object up while the paint dries. I'm sure t b g has a rather more professional set up for spraying! :-) Re cyno glue, I've used some thick stuff for things like reattaching bits that inevitable fall off model locos. One make that works for me is "Vital Bond" CA thick, which takes 45sec to cure so there is time to adjust the part, and is more like using a normal "filler" type glue. Can be applied with a cocktail stick as it doesn't harden instantly or run everywhere. Helps with my bodges anyway. Great Clan pic, Rob! Very realistic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 16, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2018 Speaking of camouflage (ready for masking up for the Dark Earth Bit) Oh and another 42xx is ready for weathering (not bad considering - I'm on high strength Antibiotics) 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted February 16, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2018 Oh and another 42xx is ready for weathering (not bad considering - I'm on high strength Antibiotics) 4280_SNP.jpg I've got her sister the 72xx on my workbench at the moment. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 I've got her sister the 72xx on my workbench at the moment. I must admit I like the 72XX... A casual bit of GWR shunting, 1,000 tons this way and that... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 18, 2018 Speaking of camouflage... Some serious hand painting required.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 18, 2018 I've got her sister the 72xx on my workbench at the moment. I could of save you a small fortune, with a guide of how to make the bunker doors Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted February 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 18, 2018 I could of save you a small fortune, with a guide of how to make the bunker doors You won't notice them after you've weathered her. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 18, 2018 You won't notice them after you've weathered her. Each heavy tank, I do is unique - I've only used the Brassmaster's detail kit once... (19 heavy tanks later) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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