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Am really impressed by your A4. Despite being a duchess fan I've always fancied Sir Nigel in its preservation garter blue but am put off by the front end. How did you do the parabolic curve? Is it a transfer? If so how did match/mask the black so well?

 

Phil

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Am really impressed by your A4. Despite being a duchess fan I've always fancied Sir Nigel in its preservation garter blue but am put off by the front end. How did you do the parabolic curve? Is it a transfer? If so how did match/mask the black so well?

 

Phil

 

Hi Phil. The transfer is from Fox Transfers and it's actually the worst part of the model due to my own inadequacies! Basically I have shaped it wrongly and to be fair haven't done very well painting the front end. Next time I will apply the transfer first to the body shell, mask off the body shell and spray the black on second as opposed to painting it roughly first, putting on the parabolic curve and then patch painting to make it match. Lesson learned but then it is a prototype after all.

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post-1656-0-82820300-1403888733.jpg

 

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As you can, I have got the shape completely wrong at the bottom - the curve should always go down, not up then down. This may be down to the black area being bigger than it should be, and therefore the curve itself being correspondingly in the wrong location. Like I saw, live and learn and the next one will be better in this area I hope. Cruel close ups here!

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I can assure you it's wrong. I should have studied photographs more closely. A case of modelling what you think you see as opposed what is there.

 

Nevertheless a decent first attempt if somewhat upstaged by the unexpected slipping on Little Bytham. Video to follow when I get a chance.

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The next stage of my descent into madness over building A4 Pacifics for my new layout has arrived. I have taken delivery of a 1935 tender for which I am confident I can now create a mould for a much simplified resin copy. I ideally need eight (!) of these for my future plans and it's worth taking the time now to get it right.

 

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This means that Silver Fox, which as has been correctly observed, has been pulling the wrong tender previously, will now be united with the correct type. This is probably a good moment to show how we can sling any type of Hornby tender behind the Bachmann models - I've standardised on the Hornby Tornado/Railroad Scotsman drawbar, which is extremely useful. 

 

post-1656-0-27141100-1403949218.jpg

 

On a related note, the (practically mint if a tad dusty) A4 locomotive (Golden Plover) which I bought specifically for the tender, has become available for sale. Feel free to PM with an offer, it won't be used in my modelling plans.

 

post-1656-0-18305800-1403949216.jpg

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post-1656-0-93801300-1404078498.jpg

 

no.E22, Mallard

 

Another prototype for my future batches of A4 conversions, this one takes a very different slant. See what you make of it.

 

This will be the last blog I do using my ageing Casio camera. I've invested in a few bits and bobs to improve the quality of my work no end. Wise words from a wise man had me in mind to get something a bit better than the basic point and click this time around.

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post-1656-0-90401500-1404426043.jpg

 

I've just about finished Silver Fox's front end with a coupling (standard Hornby affair) and some lamp irons from etches Peter Harvey designed for me back in 2012. 

 

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A comparison with my second Bachmann/GBL hybrid, which shows how much effort goes into modifying one of these to look like the one on the right. I suspect the colour of the second won't match the first one and will probably be a darker blue. I am still experimenting, and it's all a learning curve. But very much enjoying the A4 journey at present. The second A4 will become no.8 Dwight D. Eisenhower.

 

The third A4 is of course the Mallard conversion, and that will be going to the paint shop very soon too. I intend for both of these latter two A4s to exhibit some improvements to the Silver Fox model, and that will come in both colour and components one suspects.

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I don't want to wade into the debate about that shade of blue, Simon, but have you used Klear on it? I find that it darkens the colour on my teak coaches quite noticeably and wondered if it would have the same effect on blue.

 

Not yet - I tend to use Klear after weathering. That is food for thought though - perhaps a coat of Klear before weathering and one after would darken it enough?

 

I have plans for a bit of a painting experiment over the Sunday coming so will add that to my list of painting experiments. Thanks for raising that point, it's a very good one.

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Shortly to go on my blog in more detail and with more pictures, here is the first glimpse at my latest project…

 

post-1656-0-62690400-1404548514.jpg

 

...a portable, not exhibition standard but something fun for myself, model railway layout on which to pose and run my growing collection of LNER locomotives.

 

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Seems appropriate to pose no.e22 Mallard as the first loco on the as yet unnamed layout...

 

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Two more to go. I said to myself I'd buy three of Tim Horn's laser cut boards, and if I liked them enough I'd buy three more to make up the full length of the layout. I've built one so far and the reviews are spot on: this is a brilliant idea, and very well designed.

 

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 I did woodwork at school and was quite good at it, but have put off baseboard building for some time out of fear of being rather useless at it. These kits work very well and I am in no doubt I will be enjoying putting it all together very soon.

 

The tunnel and track are just to give myself an idea of the space available. The baseboards will squeeze a double track mainline on the bottom level, and a higher level with two tracks criss-crossing the lower level across its length. The idea and the look has been inspired by a number of layouts and I'm in no doubt when all the scenery is done my influences will be instantly recognisable. That said, I do hope I can show off my own haphazard modelling in the process!

 

Until next time.

 

Oh, by the way, new camera. Fujifilm. Good deal. Not going to win awards for photography but I think they are clearer and sharper than the ageing Casio Exilim which has been consigned to the great camera heaven in the sky...

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Just thought I'd drop these here. Semi-successful first casting of a streamlined 1935 corridor tender. I will have another attempt later next month with the mould but for what it is, not bad for a first casting. Better ones will follow...

 

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Interesting.

 

Solid or hollow? What resin did you choose and how evenly and thoroughly has it hardened?

 

Either way, it's a useful test piece revealing the areas where the resin needs help to get in and the air needs help to get out.

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Interesting.

 

Solid or hollow? What resin did you choose and how evenly and thoroughly has it hardened?

 

Either way, it's a useful test piece revealing the areas where the resin needs help to get in and the air needs help to get out.

 

Solid - I am going to try a two piece mould next month to compare methods. The weight of the solid one means I probably won't need to add metal weights to a set of Hornby frames! It is extremely hard. I used Alumilite Graeme. As a first attempt, useful test piece as you say. I can do better but will clean this one up and see how it comes out as a tender.

 

You'll note I left the window moulding on the rear of the tender - will probably just paint the window black and the surround silver. You can't see into the non existent corridor on the Hornby ones anyway...

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I've yet to try Alumilite.

 

Obviously the economics of casting "solid" depend upon how many copies you want. For single copies the solid resin may be cheaper than the extra rubber needed to make a core piece. If you want multiple copies then thin casting becomes more economic. If you don't mind the time and fuss you can also do a hollow casting in some moulds that would normally produce only solid ones. With flat or flattish faces to the mould you can use different orientations of the mould and several successive shallow pours of resin, letting each pour at least stiffen before carrying out the next pour. With untouched surfaces and reasonably short intervals between successive pours the resin all seems to stick together fairly well. Of course you may need a cover on the base of the mould when pouring the sides. In fact, once you have done one hollow cast using this step by step technique, you can then decide whether to leave it in the mould and use a second pour of rubber to form a core piece.

 

If the mould is rounded you can even try your hand at roto-casting rather than using a core piece, but be ready for some unexpected results.....

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I'm working out the economics of solid casting as opposed the hollow one. One way to decrease the material used is to of course mould the actual coal space unlike here were I've left it with the Hornby insert. The advantage of this I think is a lack of potential bowing in the alumilite tender sides. Cleaning up of this piece will be this week and hopefully it'll be in blue paint by the weekend.

 

Thanks for your thoughts Graeme, they are much appreciated from this novice resin caster.

 

One thing I should say about alumilite is that it's not as pliable as the resin you use, being much tougher to fil down or cut. In this respect, less would have been more in terms of the overflow of alumilite with this casting. Easier to add material than to take away...!

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So in addition, to the above, a little work on the tender in question this evening.

 

post-1656-0-32937300-1404859272.jpg

 

Needs more filling, filing and sanding before primer.

 

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Have to be honest though, surprised at how good it looks. I think when painted up and finished it'll look the part.

 

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Silver Fox is close to getting her correct type tender at last!

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Managed to get the tender in a first coat of primer. This will show up any imperfections. Will take some pictures and show them later on. I think the two piece mould is probably showing its superiority in one area at least - the extremely thick tender is a pain to sand down and drill into.

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There's plenty of people who like your modelling too, Simon. You build good looking models and enjoy doing it. That's what it's all about.

 

Regards,

 

Stefan

Not only that, the builds are well documented and photographed, helping out less experienced modellers.

 

And some cracking ideas have come from it. For example, the A4 de-valiencing kit-brilliant!

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I for one enjoy your modelling Simon.

 

The only thing that "should" interest me is your region of choice. Aside from that, we have very little in common. On that basis, I find that if the subject holds my interest, it must be good. I do like to follow your threads as they are informative, to the point and innovative. Your passion is very apparent in the photo's above.

 

Some good work here, keep it up matey.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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