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3D printed models in N


Revolution Ben

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  • RMweb Gold

Hello all,

 

I have been building some of the various 3D printed models I have purchased recently.

 

There are more to follow, including IWA ferry vans and IQA nuclear flask wagons, but first up is this Network Rail RHTT train, produced by Russ H and other modellers on the N Gauge Forum.  The prints are supplied in FUD with etched handrails and decals are available from Railtec.  As supplied the prints are very fine; I cleaned them with oven cleaner, then sprayed with Halford's grey car primer.  This revealed some striation on the tanks which was fairly easy to sand smooth for another coat of primer.

 

So far the model has been painted, varnished (with Klear) and the decals have been added.  Etched handrails (supplied) still need to be fitted, some final detail painting of handles, lights etc and then the models mounted on the FEA-F wagons.

 

Shown L-R are the Sandite module, Water tank and (I think) Water Jetting module.   Apologies for the poor quality photos but they were snapped quickly on a phone and I didn't notice the glare until too late!

 

post-420-0-90226400-1399499372_thumb.jpg

 

 

These were painted with a acrylic aerosol I found at Halfords; not car paint but it seems to produce a finish of a comparable quality.  I am loathe to paint 3D printed models with enamels as they never seem to dry; yet I hate putting acrylic through the airbrush so these aerosols seem like a good "lazy boy" option.

 

The kit is also supplied with ends to allow a pair of Dapol FEA-B wagons to be converted to the correct single unit FEA-Fs.  These were cleaned and fixed in place with Evostick before the whole thing was given a coat of Matt black.

 

 

post-420-0-34195700-1399499565_thumb.jpg

 

The conversion isn't strictly accurate (in part due to errors in the donor Dapol models) but it certainly looks the part, and once the containers are loaded on the slight mismatch in spars will be almost impossible to see.  The decal sheet includes made up TOPS panels for four wagons.

 

Once the containers are fitted to the wagons the whole lot will be weathered (not too much, though these trains can get very dirty I don't want to hide all the detail!) and run top and tailed with appropriate traction.

 

I'm planning to give this train its first outing on Horseley Fields at this Saturday's South West Herts MRC show at Watford.

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hello all,

 

Yes, these models are really nice, but I think I had been holding off finishing them because of a bad experience with the first 3D print I had where it took weeks and weeks for the paint to dry.

 

Now I feel more confident:  the oven cleaner is rather nasty stuff but does seem to be effective at thoroughly cleaning off any of the waxy residue which seems to cause the problems with painting, while the Halford's car paints (and their other colours) are ideal for finishing.

 

This does seem to be an area where N can really lead the way:  the small size of 1:148 or 1:160 scale models makes them financially acceptable and printable in a way that larger models are not, at least at the moment.

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

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I have had problems with waxy residues spoiling the paint finish too. Thanks for the tip about oven cleaner, I shall try that in future. Alas I think it may be too late for my 128. :(

 

Unless anyone knows a good way to strip halfords car paint off without destroying the FUD?

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  • RMweb Gold

For FUD there is no need to use oven cleaner.  An ultrasonic bath with a few drops of washing up liquid (first rinse) and then just water.  I find the first couple of goes the water goes cloudy, then after 2nd or 3rd run it is clear (and no more problems with paint).

 

I suspect a similar process with a toothbrush will work.

 

Cheers, Mike

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For FUD there is no need to use oven cleaner.  An ultrasonic bath with a few drops of washing up liquid (first rinse) and then just water.  I find the first couple of goes the water goes cloudy, then after 2nd or 3rd run it is clear (and no more problems with paint).

 

I suspect a similar process with a toothbrush will work.

A toothbrush and washing up liquid is how I cleaned it in the first place. I gave it 2 or 3 goes and removed all the residue I could see. But apparently I missed all the stuff I couldn't. :(
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  • RMweb Gold

 

Hi Mike,

 

With the first 3D print I used Cif and IPA and cleaned very thoroughly several times. It still didn't work.

 

The ultrasonic bath is an interesting idea but I don't have access to one of these, unfortunately. Then again, like an airbrush or soldering iron, perhaps it will become an essential as 3D modelling takes off?

 

Cheers

 

Ben A.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

The painted modules and tanks have now had decals and etched handrails added, and been mounted in the wagons. They're a good interference fit in the Dapol spigot holes.

 

post-420-0-34077400-1399568184_thumb.jpg

 

Only thing that needs doing is the Network a Rail sign adding to the handrails on the Generator/jetting unit module. I hadn't noticed this but will add decals to thin plasticard then fix in place.

 

The trickiest parts were the orange cant-rail stripes on the tanks - it's very hard to get them the same height on all three tanks. If i do any more I may fit the modules to the wagon while I carry out this part of the process.

 

They still need weathering (later, if I have time) but I'm rather impressed with them. Hats off again to Russell H at 3DR models on the n gauge forum for designing these.

 

Cheers

 

Ben A.

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Looking very good Ben...  I've not tried the Oven Cleaner trick on FUD, but do get good results with Swarfega... One point to make to those using washing up liquid to clean FUD is ensure it doesnt contain any moisturisers or Lanolin as that will just make paint adhesion even worse.....

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I use it liberally neat with one of Jessicas old toothbrushes !! I Find the baby ones suitable as they have extremely soft bristles and not hugely long, then just rinse off in warm water..  I do it two or three times. rinsing between each clean...

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Paul,

 

Swarfega is an interesting idea. I think I may have an old tin lying about in the garage somewhere! Do you use it neat or make a solution?

 

Cheers

 

Ben A.

Ben

 

I use it neat. Scrub it in with the tooth brush then scrub off under running water being careful that no delicate bits break off and go down the plug hole. I repeat a cople more times.

 

So far its turned out to be the best method of those that I have used.

 

The only one I could lay my hands on was the orange one which I think came from Tescos. I thought that I could find some on one of our sites but they dont use it any more.

 

Ian

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  • RMweb Gold

 

Hi all,

 

I'll try the Swarfega on some other bits I've got to do.

 

And yes Paul, bring your pair of 20s along. I have prepared two maroon 66s - one powered, one dummy, but we can certainly try the 20s as long as the powered rear loco doesn't lead to derailments. The RHTT wagons are surprisingly heavy as the castings have a reasonable amount of weight.

 

Cheers

 

Ben A.

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  • 3 months later...

For de waxing FUD I use "Tableau" brand spot remover dry cleaning fluid in an aerosol (Robert Dyas sell this).  I spray the parts then bag them for about ten minutes.  The wax turns to powder which can be brushed off.  Then they go in a soapy ultrasonic bath for 6 minutes and after another lite brush they are good to go.

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For de waxing FUD I use "Tableau" brand spot remover dry cleaning fluid in an aerosol (Robert Dyas sell this).  I spray the parts then bag them for about ten minutes.  The wax turns to powder which can be brushed off.  Then they go in a soapy ultrasonic bath for 6 minutes and after another lite brush they are good to go.

 

Would you post an image of the "Spot Remover" that you use please?

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