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Marty's O Scale stuff


hartleymartin
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I've been working on acquiring a small fleet of locomotives for a future industrial style layout. I've been particularly looking for locomotives which would have run in NSW, Australia as this is my home territory.

 

I managed one new acquisition recently:

 

10478940_10152519173196251_8954471728922

 

L-R: Hudswell Clarke, undergoing a repaint; Planet Diesel, ex-Coney Hill; and my latest acquisition, the Manning Wardle H Class

 

in absentia: 14" Tower Models Barclay, currently stripped down, awaiting a complete rebuild.

 

I spotted the Manning Wardle in a second-hand display case at my local hobby shop. It had been on display for about 20 minutes before I put down a deposit on it. 6 months of small layby payments later, I brought it home. When the original production run of 100 went on sale, I was hard up for money and by the time I had any money they were all sold out. You can imagine my excitement at the possibility of purchasing one, and 20% off the original Retail price! (WHOO HOOO!) Now to pester Ixion about getting the 1021 decals for it! (Maybe a Fowler Diesel in the future... ?)

 

I have not done much model-building in the past couple of years, but I've taken the opportunity to make acquisitions. After moving house in November last year, I'm settling in and looking to start work on a layout again when the appropriate time arises. My career as a church organist has been slowly taking off doing Sunday services, weddings and funerals. Church music is the hobby which pays for my train habit... I mean hobby.

Edited by hartleymartin
Better thread name.
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And I hope to have the model done up like this before too long. I've had this as my computer desktop background image for about 3 years, hoping to one day acquire an O scale model!

 

10446212_10152521081366251_8360906023697

 

*EDIT* At Broadmeadow Locomotive Depot, January 1969.

Edited by hartleymartin
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Very handsome little loco. I've had the recurring bad idea of building an X200 shunter to go with a few of the O-Aust Kits/Waratah Models wagons that keep tempting me. Problem is, I get an equally strong pull in the QR and VR directions... I may yet end up with a bookshelf with multiple small layouts for different parts of the country!!

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Martin,

You need to pester my Australian Ixion partners Lindsay O'Reilly in Newcastle (the Australian version) or Phil Badger in Sydney for 1021's decals. Meanwhile, I'll keep a Fowler diesel warm for you over here as the Australian stock is sold out.

 

Regards,

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At this stage the Fowler is probably going to be a Christmas purchase. I'm pretty chuffed with my small steam fleet (pun intended) and I'm looking forward to a couple of small diesel locomotives. A Ruston 48DS is potentially on the cards for a scratch-build project. Not sure I want to fork over the 415 British Pounds for an R-T-R one, and I'm not too sure about my abilities with etched brass to build the 200 pound kit.

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Marty,

Nice pick-up. I had a black MW, and it sold off our website before I could put up the "Sold Out" sign. So I posted of my black one (tearfully) and retrained a lined blue one for myself instead. So. I confess to a twinge of jealousy!

 

As Chris has said above, Phil Badger can print you the decals for a black 1021. Just contact him directly, or email me off-list with your address and I'll organise them for you.

 

Cheers, Lindsay.

Lindsay O'Reilly, Ixion Models.

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Hudswell Clarke - bought 1926 for Bunnerong Power Station, ended it's days at Wallarah Colliery, new Newcastle, NSW in 1957

Manning Wardle - bought 1916 for NSW Public Works Department, became NSWGR shunter, did a brief stint at Catherine Hill Bay Colliery Railway, worked until 1970, preserved.

14" Andrew Barclay - became Public Works Department no. 78 (cut up in 1950s)

Planet Diesel - Used to shunt coal hoppers at a Pumping Station in Sydney

 

So, the models I've acquired all have an Australian Connection, and it wouldn't be too much of a stretch to imagine a colliery/industrial railway where they were bought/hired. The interesting thing would be to decide what style of coal hoppers were to be used.

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There are non-air hopper kits available from O-Aust. However, I am wondering about the possibility of doing ones along the lines of either Catherine Hill Bay, which were unique asymmetrical design or something from one of the South Coast Col Railways such as South Bulli or Corrimal.

 

If you look closely, you'll see what I mean about the Catherine Hill Bay Railway having asymmetrical hoppers:

 

101123.jpg

 

 

 

One side of the hoppers was almost vertical, but the other side sloped and is best seen in this picture. In fact, this is the only picture I've ever seen which clearly shows this side of the hoppers:

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/intervene/9566246083

 

When it comes to industrial railways... ah the tyranny of choice!

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I really wish that Peco would do their "Small Radius" points in O gauge. I have several medium radius points handy, but I would really like to use something of smaller radius. At this stage, knowing what the manufacturing world is like, I'll go and hand-build the points then there will be an announcement that the new Peco ones are available.

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I really wish that Peco would do their "Small Radius" points in O gauge. I have several medium radius points handy, but I would really like to use something of smaller radius. At this stage, knowing what the manufacturing world is like, I'll go and hand-build the points then there will be an announcement that the new Peco ones are available.

To be honest, I only use Peco points in off-stage areas because of the ghastly switching box on the tie bar (you can't hide then all with facing point lock covers) and curious geometry. All of my show points are built using PECO Individulay or, latterly, C&L parts. Here is a link to my Cwm Bach layout project showing a handbuilt three-way tandem point: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80426-cwm-bach-a-south-wales-branch-line/page-7  If you intend to use a lighter section flat-bottom rail spiked to the sleepers, you might want to try soldered track using rail and PCB sleepers. It is quick, suprisingly easy and quite realistic.

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I've built several of my own points before using different methods. I'll be honest and say that I'm not a fan of soldering to PCB sleepers. I much prefer to hand-spike to wood sleepers, although one needs to be aware of potential shifts in gauge from using paint and wet ballasting techniques. I had several instances of gauge-tightening on another layout (Stringybark Creek) from this, and just about the entire layout was hand-laid track on timber sleepers. On our next layout we decided to use Code 125 flatbottom RTR track and handbuild just the points as there was little to no visual difference between then RTR stuff and the laboriously-made hand-laid stuff. I made most of the plain track for Stringybark Creek, 4 spikes in every sleeper and the layout was over a scale mile around the mainline circuit.

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I've built several of my own points before using different methods. I'll be honest and say that I'm not a fan of soldering to PCB sleepers. I much prefer to hand-spike to wood sleepers, although one needs to be aware of potential shifts in gauge from using paint and wet ballasting techniques. I had several instances of gauge-tightening on another layout (Stringybark Creek) from this, and just about the entire layout was hand-laid track on timber sleepers. On our next layout we decided to use Code 125 flatbottom RTR track and handbuild just the points as there was little to no visual difference between then RTR stuff and the laboriously-made hand-laid stuff. I made most of the plain track for Stringybark Creek, 4 spikes in every sleeper and the layout was over a scale mile around the mainline circuit.

On small 0 gauge layouts I do think it is worth making a special effort with the track. I'm always a little disappointed when I see PECO points on layouts at shows. Perhaps it's the familiarity that jars, like Superquick buildings. However, I had better be very careful about what I say as the Ixion Hudswell Clarke is now becoming very ubiquitous on 0 gauge layouts up and down the UK.

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Indeed they're probably going to be more ubiquitous than a 14XX and auto coach. But they're a fantastic model for customisation and I'd expect most modellers to do a little work on them. Mine was a black one but has gotten a respray to green.

 

My Manning Wardle is going to be customized too.

Edited by hartleymartin
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  • 2 months later...

Well, the Andrew Barclay has had a bit of a look into this week. I used a small old brass wire brush to remove the last of the stubborn paint that the Mr Muscle Oven cleaner didn't remove. Various other concoctions were put onto the model to release the epoxy resin glue joins to get the smaller parts off, but it seems that nothing could budge the main boiler/tank castings nor the funnel and dome from the top of the saddle tank.

 

I've been fettling the bufferbeams to fit some sprung buffers to the model. They are not correct for a 14" barclay, and I have no providence of these castings except that I think I bought them off ebay a few years ago. The original mountings on the buffers were moved with side cutters and needle files, as I wanted to retain the originals on the bufferbeams. As this is an industrial prototype, it is quite believable that parts got swapped around in the in-house works. Chances are they wanted to fit the larger buffer heads for working around the sharp curves. Lots of work with little files, some epoxy resin and superglue, this is the result:

 

1525103_10152677261221251_79036377500897

 

The buffers are not perfectly aligned, but this can always be put down to damage from a "rough shunt."

 

Other parts have progressed too. The modified cab is currently in grey primer, awaiting some futher work in cleaning up the castings, the footplate is ready to paint, although I made things difficult for myself by re-attaching the sandboxes. I had originally planned to spray the entire footplate casting in Tamiya "Rubber Black," but the sandboxes will need to be painted and then masked off. Whoops! Perhaps a judicious use of some MEK will get them off again.

 

The saddle tank needs some work at the moment. I have removed the side handrails and need to fill the holes and drill new holes to fit the rails into their correct position. Unfortunately, I destroyed one of the turned brass handrail knobs in the removal process. Will need to obtain replacements or cheat by just bending the wire straight into the tank.

 

Backhead will need some modifications. I'll drill open the firebox door and hopefully fit yellow and red LEDs for a firebox flicker. A new cab backsheed is in order, as I cut the original off, with the intention of adding a bunker of some sort. Most likely this will be a small capacity home-made one as found on several prototypes.

 

And the big modification will be the all-new chassis and gearbox! I wasn't happy with the 3/4" Brass U-channel one that Tower models supplied. I have also obtained a new 54:1 ratio gearset (the original was 40:1) and a flywheel which I will attach to the new motor. At the moment I'm not sure if a Mashima 1833 will fit, but There is always the 1824 as an option!

Edited by hartleymartin
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Hello Martin,

 

Some tasty modelling going on there and on for me an interestingly fresh subject. 

Got to recommend the Ixion Fowler too, Chris put one aside for me until I got funds in place from my Birthday.  I've had it chipped and sounded it's a beautiful model.

 

Only trouble is I keep playing with it and not getting on with the building side of my layout.

 

One for me to follow.

 

Regards

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I thought you might be interested to see the state of the 14" Andrew Barclay:

 

10635965_10152677501066251_4468278321306

 

Cab is in primer coat. Primer has shown up a few flaws which I'll have to fix. The boiler/saddle tank needs the handrail holes filled in, new ones drilled and new handrails fitted before this can be primed and painted. Footplate is ready to paint - the two front axle springs will be added AFTER I've painted the front sandboxes (I should have thought to leave these off until after painting). Buffer beams are ready for prime and paint, these will be attached after painting. Aside from making a new cab backsheet/bunker, the body is more-or-less ready for paintshops and final assembly. The major job will be the new chassis.

 

One the topic of the new chassis, there is a distinct groove in the drive axle caused by a slipping grub screw. I think that when I fit the new 54:1 ratio gearset, I'll have to either file a flat onto the axle or perhaps drill a hole and put a split pin through it. Even with the 40:1 ratio gearset, this locomotive had some serious hauling power (probably due to the thing being a giant lump of whitemetal) and I don't doubt that if the gears slipped before, the new higher gear ratio will only make it worse (and possibly result in a 30% increase in power!)

 

I'm thinking of drilling some holes in the bottom of the boiler. This will allow for a possible fitting of a DCC sound chip in the future (at the moment I still run ordinary 12VDC because it's cheaper)

Edited by hartleymartin
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Here's an example of the Australian connection for the 14" Barclay:

No. 1 "JUNO" ex-Commonwealth Steel Company, Newcastle, NSW. Note the non-original cab backsheet with much bigger porthole windows and the coal bunker.

The NSW Public Works Department also owned a similar machine, No. 78, which was used at various locations, and eventually was withdrawn and scrapped in the 1950s.

 

juno.jpg

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As I approach the stage where the locomotive body is ready for painting and final assembly, I'm wondering what colour I should paint it, bearing in mind that I will use a Tamiya Spray Can colour, and I already have a black 0-4-0 (Manning Wardle) and now a Green 0-6-0 (Hudswell Clarke) I could always go for Green, and just ensure that the Green locomotives (The Atlas Planet is also Green) are all different shades of Green.

GREEN?:
In+Steam.jpg

 

BLUE?:
2217_4.jpg

 

MAROON?:
6067382352_4bb8e0e1d0.jpg

Edited by hartleymartin
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