hartleymartin Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) And the model is slowing marching towards completion. I found that the supplied door handles in the kit were incorrect, so I substituted Slaters 7202 MR T-shaped Coach door handles, which are much closer to the prototype. I only used 4 castings out of the 12 supplied, so I have enough to do another model in the future. The various handrails/grabrails are made from 0.5mm brass rod, bent to shape with pliers and pushed into 0.5mm holes. Most of the handrails are not glued into place, but held by friction. I'm hoping that a final coat of primer and then the colour coat of paint will hold them in place. If not, I can always take the body off the floor (it is held in place with two machine screws) and dribble a little superglue onto the backs of the handrails inside the body. Oh, and as I now have sufficient information to make them, I will be doing the steps on the passenger compartment end wall and the long curved handrails. They will be strips of brass bent to an L shape with styrene squares glued on top. Of course, I'll also glue the joint between the styrene and the end wall to ensure that these don't go AWOL! Again, I can only say that being online and having access to the wealth of information, knowledge and experience of other modellers has been an immense help. As far as I am aware there are no preserved SHGs/BHGs within reasonable travel of where I live. I suspect that the only survivors are out in regional museums or depots which would require a few days worth of travel to get to, especially now since I don't have a car! Edited February 7, 2015 by hartleymartin 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) One unexpected problem with doing the back-date of the BHG to an SHG was that the SHG had longer turton or bottle-shaped buffers. The built up van no longer fits into the cardboard box it originally came in! To be fair, I have not used sprung buffers, and I will probably later re-fit the chassis with the sprung variety. At the moment I'm in two minds about sprung buffers. I do a lot of shunting and the sprung buffers often result in wagons flying down sidings. I've also stopped lubricating the bearings on the wheels because the wagons have all rolled a little too freely for their own good! I might go to using a small drop of heavy grease. When it's cold it provides a bit more sticktion and after a few laps of a continuous run layout it'll warm up and become more free-running. Thoughts? Edited February 8, 2015 by hartleymartin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 The SHG is now 99% complete. I have to do something about the sliding door window frames and a slight modification to the bufferbeams, but it is otherwise ready for the paint shop! The steps on the end wall of the passenger compartment are made from scraps of brass etch and 0.5mm styrene sheet cut to size and super-glued to the ends. It has just occured to me that I also need to find the lamp irons I have hidden away somewhere (one is hiding the in the carpet under my desk) but like I say, 99% complete. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Just after posting this pictures, I found the prodigal lamp iron in the carpet so I promptly glued all 8 of them in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 I decided that I didn't like the moulded-on door handles on the Planot Diseasel. So she got cast brass ones, as well as some handrails. In fact the handrail mounts come from a 48 class diesel! I also added a little lead sheet to the nose to reduce it's tendency to do wheelies on my test track. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMR CHRIS Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 The SHG looks great Martin look forward to seeing it in March For any modellers in OZ esp Sydney region see this link for details of the Sydney O scale forum in March. You may even see Marty's models on display no pressure Martin. http://aus7.org/forum/march-2015-forum/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) I just need to do something about the SHG's window frames on the sliding door then it'll be painted and lettered. Whilst I am at it, two pictures of an NSWR LV Louvred Van (yes, we got really creative with our goods vehicle codes). The upper picture shows a cast brass dummy knuckle coupling with a transition link for coupling to hook drawgear, and the second picture shows the other end of the vehicle fitted with a San Juan Car Company knuckle coupling. The plan is to fit quite a few of my vehicles so that I can have some magnetic uncoupling capabilities on the future layout. Edited February 10, 2015 by hartleymartin 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 I don't know how the magnetic uncoupling compares with the kadee couplers, but I think that with the more realistic head shape and the fact that the coupling mounts directly to the chassis instead of a self-centering spring which also adds slack to the couplers, it would make a better option for coupling rakes of coaches which would have prototypically had a knuckle coupler - more modern era stuff, but they do have about 1mm of coupling slack which I think is what you are looking for. I find that with kadee couplings on longer rakes of goods wagons, particularly of four-wheelers, that you end up with a lot of catching and bumping of goods wagons by the time you reach the guard's van. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMR CHRIS Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I don't know how the magnetic uncoupling compares with the kadee couplers, but I think that with the more realistic head shape and the fact that the coupling mounts directly to the chassis instead of a self-centering spring which also adds slack to the couplers, it would make a better option for coupling rakes of coaches which would have prototypically had a knuckle coupler - more modern era stuff, but they do have about 1mm of coupling slack which I think is what you are looking for. I find that with kadee couplings on longer rakes of goods wagons, particularly of four-wheelers, that you end up with a lot of catching and bumping of goods wagons by the time you reach the guard's van.Martin you are spot on re the Kadee slack due to the spring's. A little of my experance and the coupler's in use now In just a 5 car train of coaches it becomes very annoying (catching and bumping as you said) about an inch of extension in just 5 cars! Not realy acceptable? I am in the process of changing to some other style of coupling and am considering the Dinghams that Paul from Aus7 tried as most of the car sets have corridor's and at least I can adjust the spring tension on the hook just like can be done with a 3 link coupler spring to be as Required to stop the expressive extension on take up. Going to end up being a big job but I will be much more satisfied when the cars don't clunk and bang down the line Just some of the cars sets in the 3 rear yard tracks that need doing I have tried the San Juan coupler's and found them just a little light construction wise when when longer heavier trains are involved but I have them between a set of LCH hoppers however the trip pins don't work with the traditional track level uncoupler magnets due to the hight of the coupler when set to NSWGR specification I trimed them off and use a shunter's twissel stick to uncouple. What I use on my current build wagons and locos are the Procraft coupler and have also been retro fitting I am very happy with these, as for it's spring it is at the rear "compresses" only when pushed in but solid on the pull, but is not intended for this more as a centring action (see photo) but not a good option for between the corridor connections. They should be in most cases in car sets a permanent link and pin arrangement anyway. So the Dinghams go part way there. These also accept fitting of a transition link without to much work This is a good photo for reference re transition coupler NSWGR S truck with transition knuckle and link coupler hight to buffer line etc. I have tried mounting forward of the locking pin also when requiring extra lenght in the link as with this one used standard links also not scale ones. sorry about the poor quality photo cropped out a general photo. Martin, Hope this gives you another option that is also a very operational one and will couple to other brand coupler's no problem in my experance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 If these are permanently coypled sets I would go with a brass bar for the coupling. The bar is screwed into one coach and there is a pin in rhe second coach which locates into the hole in the other end of the bar. Much in the same manner as many tender couplings on other standard models. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMR CHRIS Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 (edited) If these are permanently coypled sets I would go with a brass bar for the coupling. The bar is screwed into one coach and there is a pin in rhe second coach which locates into the hole in the other end of the bar. Much in the same manner as many tender couplings on other standard models.That's what I originally did a solid bar and pin but the gap between the cars needs to be at what is required by your smallest curve the gap was ok on my layout then when visiting another layout found it was to small to negotiated the curves So what I need is some thing that is sprung so have tried a sprung bar and pin arrangement like I use between my loco's and tenders no big gaps but will put out on curves as required. This works fine but the first one you couple is easy, ok then you to try and manipulate the second coupling and then the third it becomes quite difficult as you form this long snake of a train The main issue is the corridor connections are only just above the buffer beam and this leaves no room for easy connection of dropping the pin in the bar, I tried the pin going up and was not effective as not enough lenght avalable for the pin to ensure it would stay coupled. The next problem is that like you, I don't have room for a big layout at home so my layout is in a garage about 35 K's from home and I dont leave the stock on the layout so need a quick coupling soloution or would spend all day coupling stock when I just wanted to run some trains. That's why I am looking at the Dingham type "put car on he track and just roll up and couple", to uncouple just roll over a magnet and it un links and with the springing being similar to a 3 link it will be nice and close at the corridors and still pull out when rounding corners hopfully a fix for all the issues fingers crossed. Edited February 13, 2015 by SMR CHRIS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 So it seems all a bit quoet from me after a comparative flurry of model building. I had to wait until another trip to the hobby shop for some paints and some more plasticard to make up the final few touches of the SHG. I even tracked down the original decals for it! A few more jobs need doing. I'm replacing the styrene footboards with scale timber ones and making some adjustments to the bufferbeams as they are not quite correct. I've also rediscovered a wagon I built nearly 10 years ago which is still awaiting it's couplings and decals. This will need to be sorted out soon! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Made up the new window frames by cutting out two small panels of 30 thou plasticard, marking out the windows with a pencil and then taking the drill, scalpel and microfiles to the openings until they looked about right. The panels are almost the full height of the carbody side as the doors were a bit thin and I wanted to brace them up to make them a little less delicate. The chassis has now gone to the paint shop (a piece of foamcore board out the back verandah and a can on Tamiya Spray Primer) and is drying. The body will get a coat of primer later today and if all goes well, the final colour coat may go on this afternoon. The great thing about the Tamiya sprays is that they dry quite quickly in comparison to brushing with enamels and if one starts early enough on a warm day you can get all coats onto a model before the end of the day. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) 1021 (Manning Wardle H Class), a "non-air coal hopper", and an SHG Guard's Van. I have to get around to harassing the Australian partner of Ixion for the NSWGR 1021 decals. Much to my frustration, it seems that none of my local hobby shops have 2mm brass angle in stock. I need a length of it to complete the coal hopper before it goes into the paint shop. SHG has been through the paint shops for the grey primer undercoat. I'm having second thoughts about Tamiya "Rubber Black" and think perhaps I should go for "German Grey" to represent a somewhat faded paintjob. After final coat, it's just windows and decals! Edited February 19, 2015 by hartleymartin 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 SHG has been through the paint shops for the grey primer undercoat. I'm having second thoughts about Tamiya "Rubber Black" and think perhaps I should go for "German Grey" to represent a somewhat faded paintjob. After final coat, it's just windows and decals! Smart move on starting with a lighter shade. We love the harsh Australian sunshine, and it loves attacking paint - if you're imagining your SHG has been in service for more than 10 years, it's all fair game as to how light you take it. You could get away with a grey/brown too, as the fade and rubbed-in grime will be quite uniform. Great looking little train! Quite jealous. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 1021 (Manning Wardle H Class), a "non-air coal hopper", and an SHG Guard's Van. I have to get around to harassing the Australian partner of Ixion for the NSWGR 1021 decals. Much to my frustration, it seems that none of my local hobby shops have 2mm brass angle in stock. I need a length of it to complete the coal hopper before it goes into the paint shop. SHG has been through the paint shops for the grey primer undercoat. I'm having second thoughts about Tamiya "Rubber Black" and think perhaps I should go for "German Grey" to represent a somewhat faded paintjob. After final coat, it's just windows and decals! That non-air hopper is very tempting. I find the colliery railways around Newcastle NSW, especially the Richmond Vale, to be fascinating. On my annual business trips visits to Australia, sadly over now, I always spent a long weekend with my Ixion partner Lindsay O'Reilly at Lambton, NSW. A trip up to Maitland was a regular feature. The loco is rather nice too. Regards, 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) As a rule of thumb, Australian kits are 1.5x to 2x the price of an equivalent UK prototype kit. It's because of the relatively small market which can only be viable with short production runs. A rake of 10 of these kits would buy me about 3-4 Hudswell Clarkes! Another problem is that many kits are more scratch builder's aides. On this one I threw away all the brake components and dug up some stuff out of my supply of bits and pieces. Edited February 19, 2015 by hartleymartin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mike Bellamy Posted February 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 19, 2015 The loco is rather nice too. The famous quote by Mandy Rice-Davies comes to mind . . . . . . . . . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 When Ixion does the second run, I hope that they use a better shade of red for the bufferbeams. It's all just a bit too pinkish for my liking. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 When Ixion does the second run, I hope that they use a better shade of red for the bufferbeams. It's all just a bit too pinkish for my liking. Agree. Unfortunately, it was a fait accompli on the MWs. When I opened the boxes, the shade was very different to that which we had agreed and approved. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 I'm rather interested in perhaps having one or two of these to decorate the layout: http://www.traintroll.com/ofishhandcartcrateskit.html I'm looking with interest to some of the 1/48 scale military kits for their possible use in an O gauge layout: http://modelingmadness.com/scott/misc/military/russian/gazmm.htm Whilst it represents a Russian-built truck, the Russian truck was based on the Ford Model AA Truck. Being a plastic kit it would be easier to modify a Ford AA truck, even if not too many of these were seen around England. A few did end up in Australia, so it would be able to do duties as a yard ornament for either my Australian or British collections. http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/apm/apm48105.htmand http://www.hobbylinc.com/ace-soviet-gaz-m1-emka-staff-car-plastic-model-military-staff-car-kit-1:48-scale-48104 These two are also Russian Cars, but they are copies of the Ford Model B. Again, 1/48 scale, but if they are behind the trains it helps with a little bit of forced perspective. I usually model background items in a smaller scale for this effect, in fact some of my background buildings have been 1/50 scale just to really force the perspective. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 (edited) And the start I am making on the LK709 Signal Box kit: And this is what you get in the kit - not shown is the piece of clear plastic for glazing the windows - I forgot to put it into the shot, but it probably wouldn't be visible anyway! Looking more closely at the floor panel there is a recess underneath which suggests to me that Peco planning an interior detailing kit, which has not come about yet. I really want to detail the interior as so much would be visible through those large windows. I think that some lighting may also be a requirement. It is indeed a very small signal box - perfect for a light railway or a narrow gauge layout (perhaps that is what Peco were thinking with the Terrier and other items coming out?) Edited February 22, 2015 by hartleymartin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted February 22, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2015 Skytrex & Springside both do signal box detailing kits. Skytrex is cheaper. You get what you pay for! Dava Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I lit a couple of resin buildings on the Greater Windowledge Railway - it was mildly frustrating to get an ethereal glow through the roof - an application of aluminium kitchen foil on the inside, subsequently painted over, solved the problem HTH Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 From Skytrex's website the kit looks okay. I just need to add a stove, desk and a comfortable chair... maybe a small cupboard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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