BITTON

[Donington Road]

Cor Blimey all thas track stuff does seem confusing.

 

Any how Mr P, I was hoping to give you some good news about the sausage making machine, the one my old mate's dad has in his garden. Well over the weekend we cleared away vast amounts of folage. In the process we were scratched by the blackberry brambles, and stung by the stinging neetles only to find there is problem. Both the RSPCA and the RSPB say the animals and birds that have built their homes in it will need rehousing before we can move it, and that will have to wait until the summer after they have all had their young. Good news the BBC want to film it, as its new potential owner do you want to be on Spring Watch?

 

He's too busy on point duty

 

[Andrew P]

Having just read several pages of this thread that seems like the understatement of the century!

 

Andy,

 

Your point/ turnout looks great and I'm glad to see that you have persevered with it to produce something that looks and works well.  Goodness knows some of us would have given up ages ago.  However, on the up side there is now some really informative posts here that will help many other out I guess.

 

Looking forward to seeing the rest of the layout being built now.

 

Cheers

Lee

Thanks Lee, SO AM I, hahha

[emt_911]

He's too busy on point duty

 

010710bygones2.jpg

I'm just trying to work out which road is clear

[Anotheran]

Andy,

 

Really like the look of that point now. While I'm sticking to Peco for NE and DE your work has convinced me to hand build for whatever comes after (I have some ideas) and I echo Lee in saying that, while it may have been confusing at times, the discussion here has been very informative so thank you for letting it continue (as I'm sure it must have occasionally been frustrating/irritating) and for encouraging it in the first place.

 

Kind regards, Neil

[Donw]

Well done Andy it looks good and it is working for you. Carry on mate. Ps dont tell anyone but if something sticks on a particular point a touch with the iron and mover the check rails out a smidgin may well do the trick.  That is one of the benefis of copper clad construction. If it sticks on all of them adjust the wheels.

 

The problem arises with 00 and 0 gauge because origninally the wheels on models were rather thick and heavy so the track was made to suit them. Over the years the wheels have got finer which is why you can get a slight drop as the wheel goes through the crossing in some cases. All these different standards are attempts to produce better looking track with no bumps. So standards work better than others.

Stick with what you are doing it seems to be ok.

Don

[trustytrev]

Hello,

       Gordon's post showing gauges: I think left and right have been transposed.The view of the image on my pc is, so I am assuming everyone else's is.

The definition of 00FS is simply plug and play OO gauge, or take it out of the box and run it. Including locomotives.

O gauge, N gauge, or any other gauge will not.

Or some ancient antiquity purporting to be OO gauge (Triang or HD?

 

What could be clearer?

trustytrev.

Edited December 2, 2014 by trustytrev

[Andrew P]

Andy,

 

Really like the look of that point now. While I'm sticking to Peco for NE and DE your work has convinced me to hand build for whatever comes after (I have some ideas) and I echo Lee in saying that, while it may have been confusing at times, the discussion here has been very informative so thank you for letting it continue (as I'm sure it must have occasionally been frustrating/irritating) and for encouraging it in the first place.

 

Kind regards, Neil

Thanks Neil, And I think that we've all learned one thing, and that is that there isn't a right or wrong way to go about Point Building, just lots of different ways.

George showed me his way, which was very good, but now I build the same way that Steve, (sp1) put me on to which is the Gordon S (Eastwood Town) way and it suits me. 

I have been re reading the Brian Harrup method of doing the V last night so I may try that on the next one.

 

Cheers

[Andrew P]

Well done Andy it looks good and it is working for you. Carry on mate. Ps dont tell anyone but if something sticks on a particular point a touch with the iron and mover the check rails out a smidgin may well do the trick.  That is one of the benefis of copper clad construction. If it sticks on all of them adjust the wheels.

 

The problem arises with 00 and 0 gauge because origninally the wheels on models were rather thick and heavy so the track was made to suit them. Over the years the wheels have got finer which is why you can get a slight drop as the wheel goes through the crossing in some cases. All these different standards are attempts to produce better looking track with no bumps. So standards work better than others.

Stick with what you are doing it seems to be ok.

Don

Thanks Don.

[georgeT]

Morning Bodgit.

 

Well l am so glad you stayed with the point building, and l can see you are happy with your first point, and it looks the part,  l told you it's 1% skill and 99% confidence, its not hard to do, just use your eyes and the gauges. you will know when its right just by looking at it...looking forward to sunday, maybe you can give me a tip or two ?

 

George

[gordon s]

Hello,

       Gordon's post showing gauges: I think left and right have been transposed.The view of the image on my pc is, so I am assuming everyone else's is.

The definition of 00FS is simply plug and play OO gauge, or take it out of the box and run it. Including locomotives.

O gauge, N gauge, or any other gauge will not.

Or some ancient antiquity purporting to be OO gauge (Triang or HD?

 

What could be clearer?

trustytrev.

 

Thanks Trev, I had put right when I meant left on the first gauge.…:-)

 

Just to clarify, it is 00 Intermediate with 1.3mm check rail gap.  This is similar to Peco and will allow you to run 00 RTR stuff without problem.  It may have a problem with narrower tread wheels such as Ultrascales that will work but may drop into the gap between the crossing nose and wing rail.  This is because the narrow tread is not supported across the gap.

 

The second gauge is 00-Finescale with 1mm gap.  Here you may need to move the B2B out to 14.8mm, but is will accept narrow tread wheels.

 

The last is 00-SF.  16.2mm gauge with 1mm gaps.  Runs all RTR stuff plus narrow tread scale wheels.  No bumping as the wheel is fully supported across the gap. The tread will be supported on the wing rail and the vee crossing at the same time as per my earlier pic.

 

Andy, your last pic of your turnout shows just how far you have come.  It works and looks the part.  The first one is always the hardest and every one you now produce will be better than the last and you will continue to improve.  Even after building over a hundred in the last year, I can still improve techniques and love these threads as they always gives new ideas and encourage positive discussion.  

 

At least we all agree, there are many ways of doing things.  Establish what the critical bits are, get the right gauges, do what feels best for you and gives you an end product that works.

 

Sit back and enjoy it….:-)

[Jock67B]

Morning Andy,

Glad you've now got things straight in your mind, as Neil mentioned, your frustration almost leapt from the pages at times! Jason is right, no more head banging! What you've arrived at seems to work well for you so now it's time to apply rule1 HaHaHa! Having said that, it has been a lively discussion and one full of useful information.

Look forward to lots more images soon, it certainly looks like you have enough space judging by the shots you posted,

Kind regards,

Jock.

[Andrew P]

Morning Bodgit.

 

Well l am so glad you stayed with the point building, and l can see you are happy with your first point, and it looks the part,  l told you it's 1% skill and 99% confidence, its not hard to do, just use your eyes and the gauges. you will know when its right just by looking at it...looking forward to sunday, maybe you can give me a tip or two ?

 

George

Afternoon mate, I've been out there this morning and working out the Warmley end to get the Slip into the right place and avoid the baseboard joins. We will have a chat tonight if you want.

[Andrew P]

Thanks Trev, I had put right when I meant left on the first gauge.…:-)

 

Just to clarify, it is 00 Intermediate with 1.3mm check rail gap.  This is similar to Peco and will allow you to run 00 RTR stuff without problem.  It may have a problem with narrower tread wheels such as Ultrascales that will work but may drop into the gap between the crossing nose and wing rail.  This is because the narrow tread is not supported across the gap.

 

The second gauge is 00-Finescale with 1mm gap.  Here you may need to move the B2B out to 14.8mm, but is will accept narrow tread wheels.

 

The last is 00-SF.  16.2mm gauge with 1mm gaps.  Runs all RTR stuff plus narrow tread scale wheels.  No bumping as the wheel is fully supported across the gap. The tread will be supported on the wing rail and the vee crossing at the same time as per my earlier pic.

 

Andy, your last pic of your turnout shows just how far you have come.  It works and looks the part.  The first one is always the hardest and every one you now produce will be better than the last and you will continue to improve.  Even after building over a hundred in the last year, I can still improve techniques and love these threads as they always gives new ideas and encourage positive discussion.  

 

At least we all agree, there are many ways of doing things.  Establish what the critical bits are, get the right gauges, do what feels best for you and gives you an end product that works.

 

Sit back and enjoy it….:-)

Thanks Gordon, yes Sit back and enjoy it, I am now I have things clear in my mind, I really am enjoying it, I might have to SCRAP BITTON and build a big Marshalling Yard full of pointwork, ahhaha

 

Cheers.

[Andrew P]

Morning Andy,

Glad you've now got things straight in your mind, as Neil mentioned, your frustration almost leapt from the pages at times! Jason is right, no more head banging! What you've arrived at seems to work well for you so now it's time to apply rule1 HaHaHa! Having said that, it has been a lively discussion and one full of useful information.

Look forward to lots more images soon, it certainly looks like you have enough space judging by the shots you posted,

Kind regards,

Jock.

Hahaha Jock, I hop to have some more pics of the next point later, when I can get off this dammed Flip Flop. hahhah

[Andrew P]

Evening all,I've had a good day today and got loads done as you will see in the following Post's.

 

Dee's away and so I thought I make the most of my new found freedom and get on with some more Point Building.

 

Firstly my work station.

 

And the point that I've built for the Goods release Road.

 

More to come soon.

 

[Andrew P]

I had a problem with the Head Shunt Point,

 

A; the angle was a bit shallow to meet up with Jason's Point, now this wasn't Cav's fault as he had to work from guesswork in this area but I have overcome the problem.

 

I photocopied Jason's Point, up side down, this then gave me a template for a Right Hand Curved Point to match his Left Hand Curved Point and more importantly the Slip.

 

Once built, ( in about an Hour) it was offered up to the Slip that Jason Built.

 

 

 

 

 

Then with Cav's templates back in situ I have a nice flow into the Goods Yard again and taking up 9'' less room but without spoiling the flow or effect of that end of the yard.

 

Its my first attempt at a curved Point and I have left the right hand curved section just soldered every other sleeper in case I needed to change the angle slightly, but it looks fine to me as it is, after all, its only a very short head shunt. 

 

EDIT = IGNORE THE TRACK TEMPLATES TO THE BACK OF THE BOARD.

Edited December 2, 2014 by Andrew P

[RBE]

Ooh that next big curved one looks nice. I cant wait to see that one built!!

[Clive Mortimore]

I still like the shower cap the signal box is wearing

[Allegheny1600]

Hi Andy,

Some really nice looking work there buddy, well done! Very glad to see you cracking on with things and that you can sort out exactly the standards that you need to work to, that's why I shied away from sending you my gauge, especially as Jason was sending you his, didn't want you getting frustrated with mixed standards!

Like Cav (RBE), I'm really looking forward to seeing that big curved point built, such an animal was my first point (in P4!!!) but I've still not done it yet! Mainly because I don't need it and my club mates got fed up waiting for me and built a decent one!

Unlike you however, I have yet to build any points, kudos to you.

Cheers,

John.

[Andrew P]

Ooh that next big curved one looks nice. I cant wait to see that one built!!

Cheers Cav, that's next on the workbench, (tomorrow) but it will be built on the long board, as I'm building that along with the one in the Coal Road as one piece to get the flow nice.

[Andrew P]

Ooh that next big curved one looks nice. I cant wait to see that one built!!

That was the length of the Head Shunt one that I had to replace, you can see why now, it looked massive with them back to back, each one was 18'' plus on the Plan there was 4'' in between them so a total of 40'' from Heel to Heel, its now more sensible but I'm looking forward to tackling BIG BERTHA tomorrow.

[gordon s]

If you get stuck Andy, I have loads of curved turnouts sitting here doing nothing from earlier versions of ET.  Not the same as building them yourself, but thought I'd offer just the same...

[Andrew P]

If you get stuck Andy, I have loads of curved turnouts sitting here doing nothing from earlier versions of ET.  Not the same as building them yourself, but thought I'd offer just the same...

Thanks Gordon, that's very kind of you, and to be honest, a week ago I would probably have snatched your hand off, but now I have mastered the DARK ART I'm enjoying the challenge.

 

Thanks again anyway.

[Mrkirtley800]

Just got on the thread after an absence of a few days.  Been beavering away on poor old Canal Road, which is looking a bit more than a bit sorry for itself.  You are really whooping it up now Andy.  Whatever you build especially in our hobby, the first one is always the hardest, and if you can persevere you are home and dry.

Well you've done it.  Great stuff.

Looking forward to your first scratch built loco.

Derek

[Donw]

It nice to see you have got the hang of this. The real plus in building your own is you build one to suit the situation and are not forced into adjusting the situation to suit what is available. The saving in cash is a bonus, a better layout at less cost. Win WIn I think.

Don