sir douglas Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 (edited) I was going to start on the backhead but wasnt sure how and exactly where the bottom of the salter safety valve was mounted, none of the photos or drawings that ive got helped so i headed into town this morning to consult the Fred Harman books in the library and came out with printouts of works drawings i had scanned. it at least looks like its mounted on the base of the brass arc that the regulator lever slides in here is a close up on the drawing of MW No 485 of 1874 a metre gauge 0-6-0 the reversing lever and brake column have been made, its not clear because of the flash shine but there are coal hatches on the bunkers, i wasnt sure about these either so i copied the ones on the Lynton & Barnstaple MW's from the measured & drawn book that my dad has all the current parts sat together on the loco 2 coats of black have been given to the cylinders, smokebox, firebox, sand pots, bunkers, back sheet, lever, brake column and tool box andthen the cylinders, bunkers and backsheet have been painted a coat of olive green, i have 2 safety valves but only need 1, the right hand one has been cut down to be fitted Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 3, 2018 Author Share Posted February 3, 2018 (edited) the safety valve planted and some brass painting the column handle was painted silver and the lever dry brushed over afterwards, the tool box painted with sleeper grime brown Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) the backhead is just about done now except for the pressure gauge which im not sure how to mount it without a cab sheet or even just a spectacle plate all but i have some photos of spectacle-less MW's but most of them are either bad quality or the gauge is on the other side, only 1 shows me what i want 235 of 1867 " General Flores" for Uruguay close up of pressure gauge showing the stand it sits on the reversing lever and brake column have now been fitted permanantly, the whistle and handrail knobs are from a plastic vulcan kit i bought a few years ago for the carriages. a handle was soldered up out of brass wire and superglued into a hole drill into the base of the whistle, the whistle itself has a lug on it for assembly on the kit so a hole was drilled on the side of the safety valve housing to glue it into i was contemplating whether to have the front hand rail or not but it looks better with Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 (edited) with the cab just bout done i could glue on the backsheet and bunkers and start setting the figure positions, a second hand un opened pack of slaters engine crew bought about 2 years ago at narrow gauge north, they came with detached arms but no instructions as to which arms on which figure so by trail and error made them fit the position, the shovel is from the S&D packs. a styrene stand was made for the pressure gauge and copper wire bent up for the pipe, its dam fiddly work to get that wire shaped just right, the prototype photos show the pipe coming out of the bottom of the whistle manifold so i just made it disappear under the whistle Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted February 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2018 with the cab just bout done i could glue on the backsheet and bunkers and start setting the figure positions, a second hand un opened pack of slaters engine crew bought about 2 years ago at narrow gauge north, they came with detached arms but no instructions as to which arms on which figure so by trail and error made them fit the position, the shovel is from the S&D packs. a styrene stand was made for the pressure gauge and copper wire bent up for the pipe, its dam fiddly work to get that wire shaped just right, the prototype photos show the pipe coming out of the bottom of the whistle manifold so i just made it disappear under the whistle hestia (113) by Sam, on Flickr hestia (114) by Sam, on Flickr Looking forward to seeing it run tonight Sam. With the low gearing it should have good tractive effort. Jamie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 It's starting to look the part now, Sam. Shouldn't there be a pair of safety valves? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 some had 1 and some had 2, dont know why though, i have many photos of D, E & F's with 1 and other photos with 2 but at the same time smaller locos like the 18 inch gauge MW's for woolwhich & chatham had 2, theres no size correlation 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) a run at the club last night wasnt smooth, the pick ups werent quite picking up fully, the wheels were a bit dirty and the loco isnt yet up to weight the drain cock rodding on the tank side crew in base colours modified springs from the vulcan kit Roscoe lubricator mounted on the front of the saddle after being painted Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 (edited) before i add anymore rodding and pipe work, i should do the lining and fit the plates Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 (edited) since building it, ive only today worked out the ratio of the gearbox, it took 70 turns of the worm gear to give a quarter turn on the wheels so the ratio is 280:1 and at the slowest i could get on my controller was 28 wheel RPM which gives 7840 motor RPM, as ive said before about why i built a 3 stage gearbox was because of a fast motor. i was also thinking of what the scale speeds would be but since speed is a measurement of distance and time you would have to assume a scale time to go with the scale distance which im not going to bother with anyway, lets have a side shot to show the lining on the wheels better and the springs have been painted and fitted this assembly will be fitted into the chassis under the firebox for a screw to pass through into that block of styrene in the firebox to hold the chassis and body together Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldgate Box Boy Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 since building it, ive only today worked out the ratio of the gearbox, it took 70 turns of the worm gear to give a quarter turn on the wheels so the ratio is 280:1 and at the slowest i could get on my controller was 28 wheel RPM which gives 7840 motor RPM, as ive said before about why i built a 3 stage gearbox was because of a fast motor. Untitled 1.png i was also thinking of what the scale speeds would be but since speed is a measurement of distance and time you would have to assume a scale time to go with the scale distance which im not going to bother with anyway, lets have a side shot to show the lining on the wheels better and the springs have been painted and fitted hestia (122) by Sam, on Flickr this assembly will be fitted into the chassis under the firebox for a screw to pass through into that block of styrene in the firebox to hold the chassis and body together hestia (123) by Sam, on Flickr Hi Sam great job could you tell me the shade/ manufacturer of that green you have used? Best Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Tamiya olive green XF-58 and the cream lining is XF-60 dark yellow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 (edited) the bracket fitted into the chassis and the screw hole drilled on a lot of outside cylindered manning wardle irrespective of gauge had what i can only see as a decorative sheet inbetween the slidebars and the front wheel with a curved cut out to match the wheel, the feature stuck at least into the great war from the very beginning Little Eastern of 1865 Felspar of 1914 they are currently being painted before fitting Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted February 9, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2018 the bracket fitted into the chassis and the screw hole drilled Hestia (125) by Sam, on Flickr on a lot of outside cylindered manning wardle irrespective of gauge had what i can only see as a decorative sheet inbetween the slidebars and the front wheel with a curved cut out to match the wheel, the feature stuck at least into the great war from the very beginning Little Eastern of 1865 MW 143 - 1865 little eastern E.jpg Felspar of 1914 MW 1846 - 1914 FELSPAR APCM HOLBOROUGH SNODLAND KENT H.jpg Hestia (124) by Sam, on Flickr Hestia (126) by Sam, on Flickr they are currently being painted before fitting That may well have been a sort of mudguard to stop muck and crud being thrown onto the slidebars when working on industrial trackage. It would be interesting to see if there was another one on the inside of the wheel to protect the valve gear. Jamie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted February 9, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2018 A very impressive scratch building project and should be an excellent slow runner! More successful and robust than the part built Slaters kits I and others have acquired and never completed. Dava 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) yesterday at the Doncaster show i got a second hand wagon half built. there were others but they had things like ceased buffers bent stocks, fixed hooks and the odd broken or missing part, this one cost a little more but had everything in it to complete and nothing was broken Slaters Gloucester 12 ton Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 (edited) feeling a little off so havent done much on Hestia, and i currently dont feel like doing the pipework, but the other day the figures were painted up this morning was spent making up the railings on the NB rake Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 16, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 16, 2018 (edited) A run at the club last night wasnt smooth, the pick ups werent quite picking up fully, the wheels were a bit dirty and the loco isnt yet up to weight You mention the weight, I suggest this is the biggest issue with the running. I would be packing as much lead as possible into every conceivable space, nook & cranny. The more weight, the better its going to pickup; especially on a loco with the minimum number of wheels. All the best, Dave. Edited February 16, 2018 by DLT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Excellent scratch building, very nice... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 (edited) Brakegear and bolt heads a set of brake shoes being prepared for fitting, they are the same as on the NER brake which were made by the late tony Bond. wooden shoes on brass arms and brackets And fitted, with V hangers which were spare form the Gloucester Side view showing the brakes and the various bolt heads added and the "C" plates on the solebars Edited December 22, 2018 by sir douglas 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turin 60 Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 A very impressive scratch building project and should be an excellent slow runner! More successful and robust than the part built Slaters kits I and others have acquired and never completed. Dava One of these Slaters loco's was my first O gauge loco kit and was very sucessful even with a 40:1 single stage gearbox! I do wish I'd not let it go. If you want to get rid of your abandoned project.......????? Regards John. ps in my opinion it is best not to build the chassis exactly as the instructions suggest and move the cylinders out a touch! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) its surprising how much material you can use in one project, i bought a 3ft length of brass wire at doncaster show the other week and ive only used it on this brake van with the hand rails and brakes cross shaft and with wastage only about 1/4 inch now theres only now about 3 inch left. it was was some what similar with a pack of 2 x 2mm styrene strip i once bought for this brake van but was doing the LNWR cattle instead and thought "ill just use some of this" and ended up using all the pack, which meant buying another pack one of the V hangers broke while handling it so i cut both off and made new ones out of brass and drew another template on paper, this one to get the V at the correct angle and file the ends at the correct length and angle. strips of brass cut and filed for the arms, the cranks were drilled and fed onto the shaft before that was soldered onto the V hangers and then the arms soldered between the shoe arms and the cranks Edited December 22, 2018 by sir douglas 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 (edited) used up the last of the grey pot doing some base coat, filed down the axleboxes and added styrene rectangles to make them more north british-ish cutting the footboards Edited December 22, 2018 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 (edited) continuing the footboard all 8 of the hangers cut and drilled, a template drawing to solder them together pinned down the hangers through the holes with track pins and the L section soldered on both done and cleaned up, still need to file out the slots to fir the axle boxes Also, painting the red ends on the body, a base coat of brick red and a top coat of tamiya flat red but its turned darker because of the grey underneath which wasnt intentional but looks better, styrene strip has been glued to the footboards to give the full plank width and thickness Edited December 22, 2018 by sir douglas 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted February 21, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2018 The brakevan is looking great so far! Really like the scratchbuilt MW 0-4-0 as well - what thickness of plasticard did you use for the frames please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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