sir douglas Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 (edited) some of those little jobs ive been putting off like filling the slots in the soldebars of the skytrex wagons, ive never known what they were supposed to be for but its taken me 4 years to fill them the filled slots seen here, above the right hand wheels to the left of the wheels centres luckily i still have the same green and crimson to paint over the fill but not the grey, that had to be done with a lighter shade darkened down by dry brushing black over it on the North British brake van, since buying a paper back book of wagon drawings including this one, i now know that there should be a bench across the open end, where exactly the stovepipe chimney on the roof should be and the 2 upright support timbers on the closed end just like on the open end chimney on the roof and painted black, the bench painted ready for fitting and 2 pieces of styrene cut or the timbers Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted August 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 13, 2018 Sam, Do you have details of the wagon book that has the drawings in of the NBR brake van please? Thanks, Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 (edited) its a NBR study group publication which bought from a scottish railways stand at scalefour north, i built the van long before having or even knowing about the drawings P332- "NBR wagons some design aspects" by GWM Sewell https://www.nbrstudygroup.co.uk/sales/pdfs/jul_2018_price_list.pdf Edited August 13, 2018 by sir douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted August 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 13, 2018 Thanks Sam, much appreciated. Shall sort out obtaining a copy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted August 13, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 13, 2018 Try theScottish Railways Societies at Guildex? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 (edited) next are the end timbers and lamp hooks.Firstly the bench was glued in and then the timbers were cut and filed to shape, bolt heads glued on, the paint on the body was scratched off just within where the timbers will go for good glue adhesion. The lamp hooks were made up out of scrap strips of brass, the ones in the middle of the van ends (these can just be seen inbetween the top of the timbers) are T section so i found T junctions in scrap etch frets to cut out instead of faffing bout with soldering tiny bits of brass, these were superglued on and again a small area of paint was scratched off for adhesion, 4 other hooks were bent up and glued onto the 4 corners of the van and after painting up the additions, this van is done Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 16, 2018 Author Share Posted August 16, 2018 (edited) made a mistake with the photo uploading in the previous post, uploaded the first one twice, its fixed now The North Eastern brake only needed the steps adding, these were made out of brass. On each step the hanging bars are bent into L's which slot into drilled holes in the solebar with the steps soldered on, as to not damage the vehicle, the soldering was done with 2 holes drilled into a piece of wood which the steps were fabricated on the reason for making the steps like this is because the hangers change from a flat plate on the solebar to circular behind the steps, this is based on a drawing in a book about NER brake vans lent to me back in November by a club friend, so instead of soldering together a strip and a rod of brass together, the hanger rod hangs in the solebar and the flat section will be styrene the steps dont the full length of the van, just under the 2 gates in opposite corners, shown here fitted and painted about 3 years ago when i built my first carriage i thought it would be a quirky feature to have a dropped floor height, but since then i started to dislike it up to a point recently that i want to completely take it apart and rebuild to a conventional appearance carriage in question initial strip down, everything will be reused, wheels, axles boxes leaf springs, body, partitions, benches, roof and foot boards except the floor and sole bars on the left and the axleboxes to the right of that to be thrown away after the bearings and leaf springs have been taken off the body ends have been cleaned up, the old bufferbeams cut down and covered over with new strips of styrene, the framework has been cut out as i now think the planks are too wide so new strips have been glued on for narrower planking the body sides needed attention, these are Port Wynstay resin castings from an O16.5 bogie carriage kit, the door handles and glazing were removed and the 2 breaks in the castings were fixed by removing glue and paint by picking and sanding off from the edges and the inside and the broken sections super glued back together straight, the cleaned up bodywork was then all glued back together on a new floor onto a flat surface such as this piece of MDF the salvaged partitions and benches glued back in and the start of the new chassis with the cutting and pilot hole drilling on the bufferbeams Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 26, 2018 Author Share Posted August 26, 2018 (edited) On carriage No 1, a rolling chassis has been put together with couplings and buffers and on carriage No 3 (the new one) the windows have been glazed just as on the old chassis, i'm going to scratchbuild the axleboxes and springs, the styrene W irons on each side will be cut out as one single piece keep the wheelbase right. before glueing in the bearings, rectangles of styrene were glued on to thicken the irons there for strength axleboxes glued to the soldebars and then glued to the carriage buffers and couplings fitted glazing on carriage No 3, though i forgot about the open window which will just need cutting out Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted August 27, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 27, 2018 Looks good Sam. Think I may have to try your method of cutting out the W-irons - I always struggle to get them lined up accurately first time round. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 27, 2018 Author Share Posted August 27, 2018 (edited) another job started, re motoring the Manning Wardle, The old motor is a cheap 12V which is only reliable at high speed so i built a 3 stage gearbox to convert the high RPM down to a low loco speed but the motor is annoyingly loud so i have replaced with one of the Escaps bought back in May, this was am easy replacement as the screw holes are the same distance apert on both motors, the problem with it is that the shaft is a narrower diameter, i do have a worm gear that fits but its a smaller diameter thus putting it out of mesh with the gear. The motor mounting would need moving down a little bit which couldve meant drilling new holes but the distance was too small so instead i moved the whole motor mounting plate down on the frames spacer tubes. the next problem was that the new motor is good quality and runs well at low speed which makes the loco speed far too slow, so im now rebuilding the gearbox down to a 2 stage by removing the centre gear and moving the axle a few mil to mesh the first and third gears gearbox removed with new motor to the right the axle bearings removed to elongate the holes and the retaining wire arm has been removed to put back on later as by moving the axle on the gearbox the exact position and angle of it inside the body will change, shown below, the lower frame side has had its hole filed out for the bearing to be soldered back in in thew position Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 (edited) After the bearings were soldered in and the retaining pin arm soldered back on, various adjustments and fettling was needed to get it running smoothly and not just in the gearbox, while i was working on the loco, the cylinders were taken off to file back the brass pin heads on the back of the crossheads as they were catching on the front wheel crankpins. I found that one of the slidebars had come off at one end which was easily soldered back on and another was adjusted slightly as the crosshead had a tight spot in its movement. once i got all that running nicely the pickups were playing up so they were replaced with piano wire from a length i have. finished chassis Test run video compared with the loud motor in this video taken back in january Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 After the bearings were soldered in and the retaining pin arm soldered back on, various adjustments and fettling was needed to get it running smoothly and not just in the gearbox, while i was working on the loco, the cylinders were taken off to file back the brass pin heads on the back of the crossheads as they were catching on the front wheel crankpins. I found that one of the slidebars had come off at one end which was easily soldered back on and another was adjusted slightly as the crosshead had a tight spot in its movement. once i got all that running nicely the pickups were playing up so they were replaced with piano wire from a length i have. Hestia (155) by Sam, on Flickr finished chassis Hestia (154) by Sam, on Flickr Test run video compared with the loud motor in this video taken back in january Well, the videos almost make comment redundant other than to say "Well done." 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 submitted an article and photos about my locos to the gazette, they already have plenty of loco articles for November so it'll go into February next year 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted August 30, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30, 2018 Very good news Sam - at last an article that I can look forward to reading! Glad to see that Hestia is up and running very nicely now - a very good job. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 14, 2018 Author Share Posted September 14, 2018 (edited) The article is a summary of each build and not as detailed as this thread More of the to-do list ticked off with detailing of Hestia which includes the cleaning tools on the saddletank racks, sanding rods, sand pipes, reverser reach rod and taps on the cylinder ends, Hestia is just about done now apart from some paint work which only just come to my attention in these photos and i had to take the front wheel valances off while i worked on the cross heads a few weeks ago and didnt get around to re fitting them. Sand pipes fitted and tools made from brass the taps should be brass but their small size would have been awkward to bend the brass rod out of but copper was easier, there is excess length to hold onto to while working on it The excess was cut off and holes drilled in the cylinder, a test run was done to make sure the ends of the cylinder piston rods didnt knock against it, that was fine so the taps were glued in and painted over A problem with the sanding rods has been bothering me for months which is that the pipe manifold gets in the way of fitting the rod on the left hand side so i didnt fit the rod on that side, but yesterday i had the idea of bending the rod to go around the manifold. the rod on the other side was originally fixed to the bunker with superglue which was easily broken free, so this time both rods were soldered on, which meant scraping off an area of paint to do so and then painting back over and re doing the lining in that area. I went over some areas of black with a new coat like the chimney and smoke box door which is apparent in the photos as different to the previous coat, so i'll have to do something about that The right hand side sanding road was also soldered to the bunker and the reverser reach rod was also soldered on, the tools are painted and glued into the hooks on the saddle Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium J. S. Bach Posted September 15, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 15, 2018 Hestis (164) by Sam, on Flickr A question: What is the brass colored conical-shaped item in between the engineer and fireman? I suspect that anything blasting out of that stack would be detrimental to the crew. I ask because (in that form, anyway) it is not something seen on US locomotives. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brack Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 The safety valves? Enclosed in a nice brass bonnet. US locos tend more towards the agricultural than the aesthetic, so such things would often be left sticking up on a length of pipe or on top of the dome. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 its a Salter safety valve spring housing, the same as on midland locos, but these were mounted on the regulator lever mounting, see post 608 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/91456-sirdouglas-o-gauge/?p=3029059 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 19, 2018 Author Share Posted September 19, 2018 (edited) Steps for Skyrack, these are made from bent up brass strip slotted between styrene blocks and superglued in. Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 (edited) i have carriages and wagons still need working on, more buffer were bought from Invertrain but they're all NMRS so in future i'll go straight to them instead. 2 sets of carraige buffers and 1 set of peckett/hudswell for the Peckett. 1 set of the carriage buffers went on the bogie carriage to replace my old scratchbuilt ones that dont quite work properly and the other has been put aside for the NBR 6 wheeler With a fiddleyard filling up with halfbuilt stock i still want to start something else like the next loco. this one i have mentioned in the past (Post 644 here) a peckett M5 which smaller than the W4 as done by Hornby. 2'9" wheels on a 5' wheel base and 16'6" over main frames which would be about 19' over buffers. the drawing is much more complete than it was beck then 2mm black styrene is again used on the chassis, the frames cut the chassis was put together upside down on a good solid flast surface such as this peice of glass and the frames were packed under with styrene offcuts to set the bufferbeam at the right height, the bufferstocks were glued in before assembly bu the heads wont be fitted until after the bufferbeams have been painted buffer beams cut and all assembled clips removed and sat right way up ready for the bearings and wheel fit when they arrive Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 The wheels have arrived and i've ordered a pack of 10ba threaded bushes to try out. as said in the Manning Wardle build that i'd rather use threaded bushes for the coupling rods than the nuts provided because of the tight clearance between the front wheel crankpin and the back of he slidebars & crosshead 10BA threaded bushed on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/O-gauge-threaded-crankpin-bushes-tapped-10ba-set-of-6/223179878658?hash=item33f68eb102:g:iJAAAOSwb1JbZ0dh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted October 9, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 9, 2018 If you get the brass top hat bush that comes behind the side rod, replace it with a plain washer and tap it out 10ba, then replace the 12ba screw with a 10ba screw, and this should help with your clearances. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 A set of 10ba taps can be had for around ten pounds via eBay. You can then replace the one that disappeared on the floor, or you messed up by filing too short. All you need is a stock of Slater's bushes and a pin vice to hold them. On outside cylinder locos, use two bushes where the connecting rod meets the coupling rod. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted October 9, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 9, 2018 It also means you drop the hairy assed approach to modelling and find your gentler, tender, delicate inner yin, or is it yang? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 (edited) Last night the wheels were fitted and i now have a rolling chassis, size comparison below with a RCH 12 ton Edited December 21, 2018 by sir douglas 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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