sir douglas Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) i'm thinking about doing another one of my gearbox jobs for the manning wardle since the running quality isnt good enough and will be much greater than the current set up but i currently dont have a suitable sized motor, the new gearbox will have to be the most compact ive built yet and i cant use the current motor with it because of the type it is means it wont screw to the gear box in the usual way, 5050 has suggested i use a compact gearbox assembly featured in the judith edge thread which i duly went to find the for a gander, they do look nice but at 6V im not sure, there is a 12V version though. it was suggested that this drives through a pair of bevel gears onto the axle https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-100RPM-N20-Mini-Gear-Motor-Miniature-High-Torque-Gear-Box-Motor-Wheel/252351562996?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49129%26meid%3D8b22dff5ace64b2cb9f71e505c0dc148%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D122497726750&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 in the meantime more progress on the NB brake, sides and end cut out with inserts for the window frames and door box made up with a floor body sat on the chassis and a rejected side cut down for the balcony floor Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 (edited) building up the framework on the drawing Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 (edited) another job to do is replacing solid buffers for sprung ones, on the 2 cattle and the 2 G&SW. i used invertrain and bought 4 packs, 1 pack of LNWR 3 bolt and 3 of the generic LNWR LTSR one of the G&SWR there is something wrong with the last set of buffers, one of them is too slack and another is too strong, and also i lost one of the springs, replacing it with a spare parkside hasnt helped, and ive also tried cleaning up the inside of the stock, at some point i was going to order a another set of buffers for the Jolly pinder wagon and for future wagons so i'll get a replacement set for the G&SWR Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) progress so far, both side frames, the body shell and the balcony floor stuck together onto the chassis and the framing for the balcony end being built up Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) another distraction, this time the NER brake. about a month ago i was doing some work on the buffers and lost a nut and put it away till i got a replacement, luckily the nuts on the new buffers 2 posts up are the same size so i took one from the rejected set. While the van was out i made a start on the column that should be on the end just to the left of the whitemetal wheel are 2 little brackets shaped outy of brass strip they were soldered onto a length of brass wire, a hole was drilled into the bottom of the wheel and stuck on with superglue, the assembly then stuck onto the end of the van i was looking through my collection of figures for one that looked about right to stand in the van, one looked about right but only if i messed with his arms to fit the position. his left arm was cut at the shoulder to sit it on the wheel and his right arm cut at the elbow to rest it on the side. the joints still need cleaning and filling and his head will be cut off to turn it to the right and will be tilted to the right and back a bit as if he's looking down the side of the van Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 (edited) planking in the balcony and plying up styrene to make the end support timbers hand wheel, brackets and rod painted matt black Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 i was thinking, yesterday that since i know its a NER brake van, so is should repaint it terracotta Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kirk Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 Hi Sam, Good work as always. You could re paint the NER brake or not since you are modelling a light railway the brake vans would be bought secondhand from mainline use and could be in the colour of your light railway company but they could also still be in the original paint.( It depends how well off your LR Company is). Goods wagons on the other hand will mostly have worked through from the " real" railway and would be in the colours of their owners. My only experience of a "Private" Railway was the Wemyss system which linked some of the collieries in Fife with the Harbour at Methil. This was fairly close to where I was brought up and as it remained steam hauled after BR steam had mostly gone I visited it regularly as a teenager. I think that there was a paperwork problem at Nationalisation and the collieries were Nationalised and the "real" Railway was but the little WPR fell through the net and remained independently owned (by the Wemyss family) until closure. Me rambling on but I was going to point out that the WPR had second hand Brake vans and there are (somewhere) photographs of them in use both before and after re-paint. best wishes, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted January 21, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 21, 2018 Ian is right about the Wemyss Private Railway brake vans, covered in Alan Brotchie's 1998 Oakwood Press book. They had 2nd hand GSWR, Midland [the 10 ton, as in the Slaters kit], NER, LNER and NBR vans for example. Not all at the same time. I will be including some of these in my Scottish light railway project but that is looking like one for next year now. It is interesting that Sam has some Ian Kirk GSWR coal wagons. I bought one of those kits from Ian back in 1976-7 when I was a teenager. I couldn't afford the wheels and wasn't modelling gauge 0 for another few decades so I sold it. I'd like to get one now! Dava 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 (edited) im painting over the van but will paint in rectangles of a different colour where i guess the lettering and numbers would have been to show them painted over. i think ill go over it next with brick red and it should be about right the figure has had his head turned and painted the end timbers on the NB brake have been filed down and glued on Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) i would like to say that the NE brake is now finished but ive just got the footboards to do on the NB brake, putting on the iron work and making the foot boards Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) switching over again back to Hestia, my problem is that i dont have any more reasonable motors to go with my usual 2 stage gearbox anymore that are small enough for this loco but i do have lesser quality motors that like to run at a higher RPM so why not make a 3 stage gearbox for a higher gear ratio to cancel out it out, before any drawing or cutting, a test mock up was made to see what the outcome rpm is like. i free hand held the motor into mesh on the 1st gear and the red marker pen line showed me how fast the 3rd gear was going. im happy with the output so i can start building it side view, i used the first gears to hand out of the gear box to lock the gears onto the brass on the other side this is roughly the arrangement, gear 1 is top to gear 3 on the axle, this arrangement makes the gearbox as compact as possible and there is a 1mm gap between gears 1 and 3 so they dont mesh starting the drawing. to bring the width down i swapped gear 1 to the other side of the others, shown on the end view Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 25, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2018 Great stuff Sir Douglas. I have modified existing gearboxes, but I really like your approach. I have never even attempted to build my own gearbox. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) gearbox went together quite well with just a few tweaks to make to remove slop, this time instead of styrene stretchers i'm using 8BA bolts and copper tube as spacing, to ease assembly, the bolt heads have been soldered to the gearbox plate next is the motor mounting, i had a bit of a shock this morning while walking the dog as i thought that the motor wouldnt fit into the saddle tank as i didnt check when i chose it but its fine theres about 1mm gap either side Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 all the motor is fitted and running, the gearbox has been installed into the chassis, no photos as i didnt have my camera on me and was too busy building to go get it. no progress for now as im going to Pontefract show today 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 all the motor is fitted and running, the gearbox has been installed into the chassis, no photos as i didnt have my camera on me and was too busy building to go get it. no progress for now as im going to Pontefract show today I'm impressed with your work. Could you set up the motor and gearbox and film it in action? I'm building a kit at the moment and the chassis is abit of a dog so I may replace it with a homemade version. I may also have a crack at building a gearbox like yours. Regards, Chris K Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 (edited) last night, the retaining pin was fitted and the wiring soldered on, it runs really well but quite loud because of the cheap motor had to chop a lot out of the firebox and a bit out of the saddle to fit Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) bought a pack of buffers at the weekend to finish off the Jolly pinder wagon, it is a whitemetal GW wagon bought at ally pally last year On Hestia, making the cab back sheet, i was going to do it with styrene but worried about strength so did out of brass and nickel instead, its the first time ive done anything substantial with brass or nickel rather than brackets or details Edited December 31, 2018 by sir douglas 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 (edited) a little mistake meant that i had to rebuild the back sheet before i could move onto the bunkers the side sheet height is 3ft / 21mm and the back sheet is shorter because it sits on the bufferbeam but i cut the sheet at 21 and only realised when i was marking to cut the side sheets, so the back sheet had to be rebuilt with a new lower sheet side sheets cut and bent the strip along the top was cut from an empty etch fret some other bits in progress, the block on the left will be cut up for the sand pots, the right hand block will be the tool box on the right hand side of the smokebox and the circle on the right will be the saddletank filler lid Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted January 30, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 30, 2018 Sometimes the back sheet in a small cab had a large hole, square, D, or round shaped, in the middle, so that fireirons, etc., could be got through into the firebox. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Hi Sam, It was good to meet you at Pontefract show over the weekend. My appologies if I seemed a little startled, you look different in person to the image that I had built in my mind from your avatar. I hope that you enjoyed the show and my models in the flesh rather than photos. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 (edited) i had thought of it but all the photos that ive got of MW 0-4-0's that you can see the middle of the back sheet dont have them which is 20 loco photos out of a total collection of 400 MW photos edit, it was nice to see you too rob Edited January 30, 2018 by sir douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Hi Sam. What class of MW is this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 vaguely around D to F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 vaguely around D to F That'll be an E then As always, nice work Sam. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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