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On3 mining layout on a door.


allan downes

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This will be the third On3 layout I have built but never on a door !

 

With only 6'6" x 2'9" to play with and with trestles and mine buildings seemingly being the standard requirements a door might just as well be a postage stamp so this is  going to be all about hammering square pegs into round holes with an oblong  hammer.

 

So, since any kind of plan would just present another  square peg I thought the best way to go about it was to build all the essentials first then juggle them about after and just hope for the best !

 

So first, I tackled the trestle bridge which stands at 3ft wide by 13" high and so far has swallowed up nigh on a hundred quids worth of American Bass Stripwood with more on order to finish it off so, here's how it was built and how far I've got with it.

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

 

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The sun was ablaze here in the North East this morning so I took some much clearer outside sunshine shots of the trestle bridge but I'm still waiting for timber to finish the cross bracing.

 

Hope you like it and I'd like to take this opportunity to wish everyone a happy christmas and a double shot of Gaviscon at the end of it on me !

 

Cheers.

 

Allan

 

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What a superb model.  you say it cost hundreds of pounds in basswood which is not cheap.  I have a friend who has just completed a large Trestle Bridge and he used spruce instead of Basswood, still cost a lot but not as much as Basswood.  He obtained his wood from a local Model Marine shop and found they did all the sizes he needed.

 

Loconuts

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This is the second mining complex finished but with these buildings who knows ? you can go on adding bits for ever.

 

But be advised, one bundle of mahogany planking (10 5mm x 0.5mm x 1 meter lengths ) gets you nowhere!

 

The third complex will be more complex still - when I've sketched out some sort of idea that is.

 

Cheers.

Allan

 

 

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very interesting, certainly a challenge, and is this going to be transportable. Having built a layout on a door many years ago (it gave rise to the online ard artist name I use). I had to give up as it ended up way too heavy to carry, and awkward as well. Might have helped if I had had someone to help me.

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American Narrow Gauge Water Tower.

 

This was built around a cut down cardboard tube and clad with 0.5 x 5mm mahogany strips.

 

The water spout, typical but somehow not looking quite right, was made up using a tapered paint brush handle but I'm going to have to rework it.

 

Cheers.

Allan.

 

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Hi Allan. After the shock of how good your models are, comes the shock of how quickly you build them! Those two latest structures would have taken me a year to build, even with all your experience I really don't know how you manage it. 

 

I like the cardboard tube and paintbrush handle on the water tower. There's nothing quite like looking around your house for "something that could be used for....". I remember looking at our guinea pigs once and thinking: Hmmm.... thatch!

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Hi Allan,  Sorry to be critical but I think the outlet pipe on your water tank is a bit heavy.  I have looked at a number of photos of water tank prototypes and they do not appear to be as heavy in section as yours, not even those on the D&RGW Railroad.  I believe I have drawings in some old Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazettes and will dig them out and copy them for you.  Not a bad idea on how you constructed yours.  Overall the layout is looking good.

 

Loconuts

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Hi Allan,  Sorry to be critical but I think the outlet pipe on your water tank is a bit heavy.  I have looked at a number of photos of water tank prototypes and they do not appear to be as heavy in section as yours, not even those on the D&RGW Railroad.  I believe I have drawings in some old Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazettes and will dig them out and copy them for you.  Not a bad idea on how you constructed yours.  Overall the layout is looking good.

 

Loconuts

Hi Loconuts.

 

You're quite right, it is to heavy but I did mention elsewhere that I was going to re model it.

 

However, any pictures you may find please post them.

 

Many thanks.

 

Cheers.

Allan.

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Hi Loconuts.You're quite right, it is to heavy but I did mention elsewhere that I was going to re model it.However, any pictures you may find please post them.Many thanks.Cheers.Allan.

This is superb modelling. Ref the spout, would drilling it out to make the spout hollow in appearance make it look lighter?

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Hi Allan. A quick question about the rocks. You use tissue paper which is pretty thin so how do you support it? Is it down to you treatment of it or do you use a backing of some sort?

 

Regards

 

Bill

 

Hi Bill, what yer doin' over here mate !

 

After it's been unraveled it's self supporting. Try screwing up a tissue into a tight ball then unravel it and you'll find that all you need to do is to glue just the top to a backing board and let the sheet drop where it can be pushed about to form rock ledges and overhangs crevices and such then when you're happy with it, just glue the bottom edge down to the baseboard - or just leave it to hang.

 

Cheers.

Allan.

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Allan

 

Just managed to get into the loft today to put the decs away, brought the magazines down and started going through them for any water tower models.  Looking at photos of water tanks and I think I have found the problem.  The end of the spout should bend down with an elbow rather than a mitre joint.  The spout end should also be angled so that it is horizontal with the loco filler when it is in the down position.

I have a kit here for Baker Tower off the C&S and that has a cast spout in it, I will photograph it with a ruler along side to give an idea of the size and shape.

 

Also I have a drawing of the Denver Coaling stage here which I can scan.

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