Silver Sidelines Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 An interesting thread. A Google search for COSHH data sheets indicated that Humbrol paints are related to Rustins who are more usually associated with specialised home decorating products. The COSHH data sheets indicate that enamel paints and thinners are a derivative of MEK otherwise known as Butanone as used for disolving plastics, I wouldn't want to use such solvents near plastics. As to the risks and hazards of using such solvents (or paints) in the home (or elsewhere) - they are well detailed on the packaging with the usual precautions - good ventilation, don't drink, must be an adult. The hazards associated with little bottles and tinlets of enamel paint are in a different league to commercial operations involving many litres of materials During an earlier life I was closely involved with hazardous substances "What did you do today dear?" "Oh we set fire to 4 tonnes of LNG." On a more serious note I always like to remind people how much energy there is in a gallon of petrol (5 litre). There was a supposed major gas explosion in the '70s where it eventually transpired that the owner of a restaurant had dowsed the carpets of his establishment with one gallon of petrol with the aim of claiming on his fire insurance. He didn't have the courage to strike the match - instead the restaurant and flats above were demolished later that evening when the petrol vapour was ignited by a spark from a thermostat. Just think - the energy in one gallon of petrol will propel one tonne of automobile at around 40 mph for one hour. Just a thought Regards Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted January 12, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 12, 2015 the energy in one gallon of petrol will propel one tonne of automobile at around 40 mph for one hour. Or perhaps a bit longer if you strive for greater fuel efficiency like Horsetan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I guess 40 mpg might be a bit low these days - especially when travelling down to England. RayOur only petrol fuelled car Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 An interesting and relevant reply from Peco on an associated topic. I am not a fan of solvents and Peco would seem to confirm that not all proprietary track cleaners are compatible with Peco 'set track'. Regards Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
70021 Morning Star Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 A little bit off topic, but 'wheel cleaning' related... I've been getting a degree of 'valve gear lock-up' on a tender-driven locomotive. Checking the valve gear, it appears it could do with just a smidgen more friction on the track, to assist the rods to overcam. (And she needs a thorough clean, after running her on my dad's kitchen tiles over Christmas. Well, he wanted to see one of my locomotives, and I couldn't really refuse.) Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone has a way of improving the wheel friction on tender-driven locomotives? I'm thinking that something like fitting traction tyres would be good, although not sure if that's even possible on a Britannia class? Ideally, the wheels need more friction on the track. Rick P.S. Nice car, Ray. I used to have its kid brother, a Triumph 'Toledo'. Of course, times have gone backwards since then: I now run a thoroughly classic ex-military Land Rover 'Ninety' (a 1st 'gulf war' veteran, that's actually haunted !). You can't best 1950s design icons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hello Rick, I'd say give it a good clean and a full strip down and then re-lub. But don't use 3 in one. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
70021 Morning Star Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 That's my first thought, Ozzyo, Expect it doesn't take much additional friction to cause the wheels to skid on the track. I'll probably find some hairs are tightening their grip on the axles. But my trusty Swan-Morton will soon clean things up. Why not 3-in-1 ? I've been using it for years. Presumably some tale of horror and woe... Recently, I've been using 'dry lubes'. They pick up almost zero dust and dirt. But you do need to test compatibility to plastics. (I'm using, "Muc-Off dry*lube", from Halfords.) They deposit a coat of non-stick P.T.F.E., but you need to do a few applications to build up the thickness of layering of non-stick. Graphite powder works well too; and deposits a lot of black graphite dust that looks quite realistic, but can get all over everything, if you're not careful. Thanks, Rick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold halsey Posted January 16, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2016 Hi all, I'm very new to all this - as you will see from my own posts - so please be gentle - I have got lots of new newly laid (95% new Peco 100) track and a stable of eBay wagons and 3 "Rails of Sheffield" used Bachmann locos to start me off. Generally everything is running and electrically sound BUT its not smooth so I guess a good clean/service is needed across everything. Reading this topic it seems that the consensus points me towards IPA and cotton buds along with a brass brush attachment on a mini drill as being my best starting point - do you agree and what is this about getting loco wheels to run whilst cleaning them - budget wont stretch to any fancy cradles to please keep suggestions simple and cheap. Waiting with interest for your comments at this end - thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BR60103 Posted January 17, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2016 You might be able to improvise a cradle with a section of old sheet and a couple of encyclopedia volumes with the spines 2" apart. You will still need 3 hands to hold every thing. Non-powered wheels can usually be cleaned with a paper towel over a section of track, but check them visually for any stubborn gunk; I attack this with a piece of wood about the size of a sleeper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted January 17, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2016 Hi Callum I use Goo Gone, which is available from dcc supplies. Removes all sorts of gunk including tar and chewing gum, I use it in my CMX cleaner tanker. Cheers Bob Perhaps you shouldn't smoke or chew gum, when working on/operating your layout! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted January 17, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2016 Could this be down to them selling fluid for their motorised track cleaner? I also use IPA, it also has another use. A friend's son had a dead Play Station console and brought it back to life by pouring IPA over the circuitboard. Has to be more to it than that. Couldn't understand what he said, though, like some teenagers who grunt... A lot of electronic equipment can be fixed, merely by unplugging circuits boards from each other i.e. daughter boards from mother boards. The problem is caused by components holding their charge, even when the power is disconnected - not to mention the fact, that much equipment never shuts down, it just goes into 'standby' mode. Probably by pouring IPA over the circuit board, fully discharged it too. If something is dead, probably not much to risk by dismantling, if you can figure out how to dismantle it. I tried that on a TV remote & couldn't get it open. I looked in Google & found a solution for that model, from a professional authorised repairer. For this one throw it hard against a plaster board wall and the clips will pop! It worked, without damage to the case - so apart from the damage I'd already caused, by trying to prise it off, it was perfect. Google comes up with the most unlikely of solutions at times. In this case the repairer had been 'repairing' them for ages (the buttons had dirt under them - a common problem, which they all knew about, but it was opening the case that presented problems without damage) and his colleagues couldn't figure out how he did it. He apparently waited until they went to lunch & then 'fixed' a batch of them! Eventually he lost a bet with them & his penalty was to tell them how! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted January 17, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2016 For the record I have found that with all metal wheels build up of 'carbon' is much reduced. As a result track cleaning is rarely needed. Interestingly the black deposits when they do appear always appear at the same locations - frequently towards the bottom of gradients and are removed by rubbing with scraps of fabric As to wheel cleaning I use dry pieces of toilet roll. I am puzzled by the thought of cleaning engine wheels - presumably not the driving wheels but the 'truck' wheels and tender. My engine driving wheels seem to stay remarkably clean. Other wheels only get cleaned if I suspect a problem and then I remove say a whole rake of coaches and clean all the wheels in one operation. Ray At lot depends on what this 'carbon' is. If its graphite or similar, it ought to conduct well. I suspect what it actually is, is a small amount of liquid, such as oil or moisture, which then attracts dust and thus is definitely not a conductor. Unless you've been using diamond dust! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanbomber Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Running on my layout has been much improved since I replaced all plastic wheels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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