RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted November 2, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 2, 2016 I am not sure of the origins (perhaps EMGS?) but the standard UK recommendation used to be 1 ounce for each 3 tonnes of prototype weight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian777999 Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I have never had an Araldite/plastic problem either ! I think I will continue to use Araldite. The problem he had may have been something to do with the enclosed space inside the boiler. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Superglue the Lead on. You can shear it off easily, if needed to be done in the future. Evostick will attack the plastic and is harder to remove. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I am not sure of the origins (perhaps EMGS?) but the standard UK recommendation used to be 1 ounce for each 3 tonnes of prototype weight. I've that as 4gm per ton of prototype weight. But it says nothing about the prototype wagon being loaded or empty. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 A neat solution which I have employed lately is to use some sheet lead to make a representation of a folded wagon sheet, on the floor of an otherwise empty open general merchandise wagon; as I understand that these wagons could be dispatched to collect shipments in this way. Regards post #8 : I have never heard of anybody having a problem fixing lead weights with Araldite... That sounds like an Araldite/plastic problem, rather than an Araldite/lead problem. It was an Araldite/plastic problem, presumably some mobile species from the curing Araldite softened the plastic body shell. There was only a slight external surface depression, easily fiiled and refinished. To put it in context the lead weight block being attached was the best part of a pound in weight, I only did it with the Araldite because I had some mixed for use elsewhere on the same project. (Which was a tender motor shaft driven loco drive A3 model built for maximum traction, for use on my one time outdoor OO line. All this from the days before decent RTR OO was available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 All this talk about how heavy your kit built wagon needs to be and what formula to use has all ways puzzled me ! How come all the RTR stuff can rattle around toy train tracks at high speed with no problems( and I mean modern not old triang Lima pizza cutter wheeled stuff) weighing half the weight needed in a kit built? P S I weigh mine to around 20/25 gram's on four wheeled stock useing the modern Hornby wheels and a bit more if useing finer wheels, because I worry a heavy wagon at the back of a train will pull the train over if at the rear of light weight RTR stock Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I always use a weight per measurement. In 4mm I think it was something like 20gms per centimetre. I do a similar thing for locos etc in 7mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted November 5, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2016 I use roofing lead, cut it to the same size as the wagon floor and then scribe the planks. This brings the wagon up to 50grams or so if it is a plastic kit, ideal weight. Regards, Nick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Downendian Posted November 6, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2016 I'm currently building a rake of Cambrian catfish, dogfish and Herring. I'm now at the stage of fitting the hoppers (dogs & cats) to the chassis, but as I want a rake of empties, any clever ideas of places to put lead so it's not immediately obvious? I must admit I'm stumped on this one at the moment, and can see the only alternative is adding lead in the hopper and cover with ballast. Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 This might be the place for really fine lead shot, which can be painted to represent the ballast which failed to discharge? Any way of embedding a strip of lead in the unseen underside of the hopper? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted November 8, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 8, 2016 I'm currently building a rake of Cambrian catfish, dogfish and Herring. I'm now at the stage of fitting the hoppers (dogs & cats) to the chassis, but as I want a rake of empties, any clever ideas of places to put lead so it's not immediately obvious? I must admit I'm stumped on this one at the moment, and can see the only alternative is adding lead in the hopper and cover with ballast. Neil Strips of lead flashing on the underside between the chutes; good, strong adhesive. Two bits usually enough to give just the right weight and the COG is low too. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted November 8, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 8, 2016 I use roofing lead, cut it to the same size as the wagon floor and then scribe the planks. This brings the wagon up to 50grams or so if it is a plastic kit, ideal weight. Regards, Nick. Yup, that flashing is good. However, I place strips underneath and you can't see it. if you do it in sections you can gauge the weight of the wagon. I have put lead inside vans but that can eventually come loose (adhesive degredation?) so underneath again is easier. Not on N gauge though I should think? Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian777999 Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 I always use lead wheel weights (and Araldite) underneath the wagons. They come in different weights and thicknesses ; the thin ones are the most useful for OO gauge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Yup, that flashing is good. However, I place strips underneath and you can't see it. if you do it in sections you can gauge the weight of the wagon. I have put lead inside vans but that can eventually come loose (adhesive degredation?) so underneath again is easier. Not on N gauge though I should think? Phil I've had lead weights come loose inside vans- I suspect there's some superficial oxidation of the surface that means the adhesive doesn't bond properly. Having spoilt a few roofs in ham-fisted attempts to gain access, I now use epoxy, along with a couple of small self-tapping screws, through the floor and into the lead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted November 8, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 8, 2016 I've had lead weights come loose inside vans- I suspect there's some superficial oxidation of the surface that means the adhesive doesn't bond properly. Having spoilt a few roofs in ham-fisted attempts to gain access, I now use epoxy, along with a couple of small self-tapping screws, through the floor and into the lead. I always add a few plastic blocks/strips inside vans as insurance against the glue letting go. Open wagons get lead flashing underneath and if that isn't enough, 1mm lead sheet (Eileen's Emporium, again) cut to size and scribed as required then stuck on top of the floor. Flashing is OK for this on deeper wagons but tends to be noticed on 1- and 3- plank types. As for weight, 45-50g seems to work well for 9 and 10 ft. wheelbase wagons whatever wheels are fitted. Add a bit more for longer vehicles. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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