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The Dark Side - Question : Solvent for Skytrex


The Bigbee Line

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Ernie,

 

I have LSWR Carriages vol 1 1838 - 1900 and LSWR Carriages in the 20th Century by G R Weddell.

 

They both have a lot of drawings in 4mm of 4 wheel, 6 wheel, and bogie stock, but as I know next to s*d all about LSWR coaches would need you to be a bit more specific, there are certainly eliptical roof stock drawings in there.

 

If you have specific coaches in mind let me have numbers, or specific types, and I can check it out, otherwise if it's more generic let me know lengths and types you are looking for.

 

Peter

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We will be launching some 28ft LSWR coaches at Telford this year 4 wheel all 3rd, 4 wheel brake 3rd, 4 wheel all 1st and 6 wheel Comp. If these are a success I have already drawn up the 6 wheel saloon and the 4 wheel brake end with birdcage.

 

Marc 

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  • 3 months later...

I've been toying with various layout ideas. One requirement is a mini layout of some kind. In the meantime I need a test track so after a brain wave, got a couple of Tim Horn Lite Boards from the garage and laid a set of points to see what would fit in 64" x 10".....

post-2484-0-06305000-1449258574_thumb.jpg

 

It might add another board to make it 96", enough to be able to do some meaningful shunts.

 

On the subject of shunting I was looking at the various couplings. I have a few Dapol wagons and the link nearest the hook seems to bind when raised to the horizontal. Taking one apart I discovered that the drawhook is metal and a nice shape. Unfortunately the width of the hook is the cause of the bind. I cheated and thinned the hook a little and the links now fall nicely.

 

post-2484-0-20354300-1449258231_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Best wishes for 2016.  Let's hope everybody is pleased with what Santa delivered....

 

Over the holiday I've been braving the cold to continue the project of rationalising the workshop.  I've decided to embrace the traditional O gauge approach to build a test track so I can run things.  Using some 1950's building methods; nothing high tech, just what's available and without additional purchases.  Some ebay pointwork in Copperclad will be used.  Generic track plan...

 

post-2484-0-77375700-1451657546_thumb.jpg

 

5 sets of points should produce a small goods yard, lets see how things pan out....

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I did spend a bit of time yesterday with a little progress.  I had wondered how to create the area for some track and at the same time find some sorting space for the multitude of bits and pieces to get sorted.  I have some Ikea Ivar shelving already fully occupied (and secured to the walls).  I also have a load of brackets for that twin slotted shelving somewhere...  

So a quick trip to 'Myhills' in Watton for a few lengths of support.  This was screwed to the Ivar uprights...

 

post-2484-0-07306300-1451841715_thumb.jpg

 

The using a level the adjacent support was screwed in place.  I know, the use of a level was quite frightening, how I was able to find it was amazing...

 

post-2484-0-61187500-1451841708_thumb.jpg

 

Here a test piece in place..

 

post-2484-0-18496500-1451841702_thumb.jpg

 

Seriously, this type of shelving allows quick erection and removal, plus at the same time it's fairly robust.

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I've been sketching out small layouts of various configurations, I tend to come back to a few old favorites.  In most cases they need to have some prototypical realism i.e. nothing that looks too toy like.

 

At the same time it needed to be simple so it could actually get off the ground.  I struggled to create a suitable yard arrangement with the points available.  The other recent factor was noted during a bit of paper train spotting (looking at the things in the background of pictures in magazines or books), mainly the large number of freight vehicles seen in stations.

 

I am now leaning towards a small terminus station.........  See 'Fag Packet' track plan:

 

post-2484-0-92966900-1451942777_thumb.jpg

 

First let's look at the station throat.  I arranged three turnouts in the selected arrangment..

 

post-2484-0-57870300-1451940972_thumb.jpg

 

This is looking from the run round towards the single line.  A right hand turnout just lead to a 'run off', no buffer stops or sand drag, just a couple of sleepers over the end of the line.

 

post-2484-0-94866000-1451940987_thumb.jpg

 

post-2484-0-14833500-1451940998_thumb.jpg

 

Another view looks towards the station , with the connection to the goods siding on the right.

 

post-2484-0-68141600-1451941004_thumb.jpg

 

These three turnouts are built on PCB with pivoting switch rails, these are soldered at each end, with the pivot point being in the middle of the moving sleeper at the heel end of the points.  I have seen a similar arrangement in OO points, where large gaps between the switch and stock rails made it a bit toy like, with these ones the gap is minimal and the actual degree of movement in the moving sleeper is minimal.  See the two positions below:

 

post-2484-0-00359800-1451941018_thumb.jpg  post-2484-0-51358100-1451941026_thumb.jpg

 

I'm allowing 4 x 2' x 4' boards plus a fiddle yard.  You just been to guess the station now...

 

 

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After 3 days in Dublin (no train spotting :-( ) a bit of modelling time.

 

I've made the decision to just do it, not too much thinking etc.  So into the garage this afternoon and get my ebay points laid.  I knew that there were some minor gauging issues, so after trimming the rails to allow the first 2 points to mate up as a crossover I noted a gauge difference.  I'll just remove the end timber from each set of points and join the rails with half length peco fishplates.  If it's good enough for the finescale boys (the 31.5mm to 32mm transition) it's good enough for me.

 

post-2484-0-65521800-1452370736_thumb.jpg

 

In reality there are rules regarding tightening of gauge.  If the reduction is to severe it can cause the wheel to lift, I can quote one instance where derailment occurred through this cause.  

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The end sleepers have been removed and another half fishplate added, looks OK

 

post-2484-0-87899700-1452449047_thumb.jpg

 

I must remember it's only a test track and not get too bogged down with detail and trivia.

 

I did a trial fit to some peco set track, just need to add a little additional packing under the turnouts to height match them to the plain track.

 

Next step is to add wiring, the PCB sleepers on the ebay turnounts make it easy as I can solder wires to the sleepers

 

post-2484-0-28232000-1452449069_thumb.jpg

 

Then some test running under power.......

 

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  • 7 months later...

A recent purchase of one of the OPC Southern Wagons books showed a wooden framed Single Bolster that could be bashed from a pair of Skytrex Minerals

 

The biggest problem is the wheels, not round....

 

I used a set from a Parkside-Dundas kit as they were handy.  Drilled from outside to allow the brass bearings to fit.  What's nice is how tactile the whole thing is.  If the axle isn't square, the hole can be filed and the bearing re-set.

 

With extra lead weight, rolls really nicely..

 

post-2484-0-46705400-1471276699_thumb.jpg 

 

post-2484-0-34422400-1471276737_thumb.jpg

 

post-2484-0-60943800-1471276759_thumb.jpg

 

post-2484-0-44763600-1471276768_thumb.jpg 

 

post-2484-0-95212000-1471276780_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Ernie,

 

Not sure which wagon it is in the post before last, but, just looked at it again, and there's something that jars - it's the glossy reflections off the plastic. Could you perhaps give it a touch of matt varnish? I think it would make it rather more realistic, even if you don't subsequently weather it.

 

Of course, you are also welcome to say "thanks Simon, but no thanks..." :).

 

Best

Simon

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Ernie,

 

Not sure which wagon it is in the post before last, but, just looked at it again, and there's something that jars - it's the glossy reflections off the plastic. Could you perhaps give it a touch of matt varnish? I think it would make it rather more realistic, even if you don't subsequently weather it.

 

Of course, you are also welcome to say "thanks Simon, but no thanks..." :).

 

Best

Simon

It's a Skytrex chassis that will get weathered to represent a vehicle in the twilight of its working life....

:O :nono: wrong Forum..?? :jester:

 

:mosking:

Luckily I don't have that problem......

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Ernie

 

there are three approaches that I can offer.

 

the first is to tighen the checkrails until something falls off, and then open them out a bit.  Pragmatic, quick, simple, and not hugely confidence inspiring.

 

the second is the Guild check rail maximum for 0F, measured over outer faces of the check rail and the frog cheek rails, which is maximum of 28.5 mm

 

the third is to use the Guild check gauge, which is the distance from the crossing vee to the inside of the check rail and this should be at least 30.25 mm.

 

In an ideal world, all three will conspire to give a window into which you can adjust your checkrails.  Chances are that "a little tighter than they should be" will be ok.

 

good luck

Simon

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Over the last 2 days the painting of the boards has started.  The underside is whatever gloss I can find.  Almost colour coded....

 

The back, sides and end are matt black.

 

post-2484-0-23937400-1471547939_thumb.jpg

 

I am using laminate floor underlay as the track base.  To allow track layouts to be checked out a few scrap pieces have been laid out on the supports.  It wont be this wide, 250mm in reality.

 

post-2484-0-67385600-1471547963_thumb.jpg

 

post-2484-0-64557700-1471547980_thumb.jpg

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Track base cut to width to allow test fitting of the track, the laminate floor underlay used is very easy to cut.  Just a couple of passes with a Stanley knife.

 

post-2484-0-46233300-1471628737_thumb.jpg

 

The 2 left hand Peco points were trimmed to allow a bare 42mm (6 feet) between the 2 tracks.  As well as closing the tracks up, it gets the crossover within the bounds of the middle board.

 

post-2484-0-44255000-1471628759_thumb.jpg

 

View from the other direction showing the lead into what will be a short siding.

 

post-2484-0-14613600-1471628779_thumb.jpg

 

32655 shunts trucks into the short kick back siding.

 

post-2484-0-33044300-1471628828_thumb.jpg

 

A 'sows ear' ebay purchase that should make a cotton if not silk purse of a wagon.

 

post-2484-0-99493900-1471628907_thumb.jpg

 

The kick back siding from the front.

 

post-2484-0-72864300-1471628929_thumb.jpg

 

End view showing an extension is possible, just need to set the layout forward a bit, or move the light switch....

post-2484-0-83766500-1471628950_thumb.jpg

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