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Minehead- Sun, Sea and a Station!


Modelling Martin
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Hi Brian.

I've not actually been there myself! The layout is booked to be exhibited at the Medford show this thanks giving weekend. I usually run GWR on Saturday and British Railways on the Sunday.

It might be run as preservation this time though as no one over here will know what's what!

 

Regards Shaun'

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Hi Gary.

There's nothing wrong with preserved line modeling. Both of my layouts are so and I do run what I like! (when no one's looking of course)  You might like Dunster which one day I aim to extend to Minehead myself.

So I'll be following your project for obvious reasons.

I used Wills sheets to replace the Walls on Dunsters station, they're a bit tough to work with. The RTP version looks more accurate especially around the windows, bare in mind that RTP buildings can be improved upon as I did on my other layout Goathland.  

Please to help with any modeling questions BTW.

 

Regards Shaun.  

 

Just had a look at your thread and can definitely relate to the Wills sheets; i used them on another layout for platforms sides which took a lot of patience and knife blades too as the stuff really doesn't like to be cut. The good news is i won the ebay auction for the station here (apologies for long link!) : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GWR-Skaledale-Model-Station-/251953504708?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=641pQLxnw1yar1Xy7cXPOoBCEtg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nchttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GWR-Skaledale-Model-Station-/251953504708?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=641pQLxnw1yar1Xy7cXPOoBCEtg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nci must admit its strange getting a RTP building for less than the plastic kit but i suppose thats what ebay is for at the end of the day. I like your Dunster layout too although working ground signals won't be a feature on mine!! 

 

Anyway the track has been ordered from marcway so i have the looming prospects of 12 point kits to make- the joys of the hobby!

 

Kind regards,

 

Gary

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Hi Brian.

I've not actually been there myself! The layout is booked to be exhibited at the Medford show this thanks giving weekend. I usually run GWR on Saturday and British Railways on the Sunday.

It might be run as preservation this time though as no one over here will know what's what!

 

Regards Shaun'

 

Know what you mean about the locals, they're not that interested in 'foreign' railways.. :rolleyes:

 

Brian.

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I too am planning on using the old Hornby kit on my GWR BLT 'Kilve'.  My plans revolve around embossed plasticard, an interior and a different canopy to try and make it obvious that it isn't meant to be Dunster!  Would be interested in anyone with a thread about mods to that kit.  Gary, once again being local I can take some photos of Dunster or Minehead station as they stand if you like.

 

The photos of the 'new shed' at Minehead are all done; if there's a kind soul who can talk me through the uploading process I'd be very grateful.  Please use the cardboard big print version with pictures as I'm a bit of a simpleton around my PC!

 

B

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I too am planning on using the old Hornby kit on my GWR BLT 'Kilve'.  My plans revolve around embossed plasticard, an interior and a different canopy to try and make it obvious that it isn't meant to be Dunster!  Would be interested in anyone with a thread about mods to that kit.  Gary, once again being local I can take some photos of Dunster or Minehead station as they stand if you like.

The problem with the building is that it's unique to the Minehead Railway, and isn't quite like anything else I can think of on the GWR. The buildings on the first part of the line as far as the original terminus at Watchet are pretty typical of a style found everywhere, so it's not actually a very good choice for a popular kit/RTP product.

 

Is your Kilve set in the real place? If so, I assume the line would have either followed the coast from a junction at Doniford, or from Bridgwater way, so could have been constructed by the same builders. In which case, I'd be inclined to use the same canopy, as it would give it an attachment to the area. Otherwise you're creating something totally unique that didn't exist anywhere in real life.

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I too am planning on using the old Hornby kit on my GWR BLT 'Kilve'.  My plans revolve around embossed plasticard, an interior and a different canopy to try and make it obvious that it isn't meant to be Dunster!  Would be interested in anyone with a thread about mods to that kit.  Gary, once again being local I can take some photos of Dunster or Minehead station as they stand if you like.

 

The photos of the 'new shed' at Minehead are all done; if there's a kind soul who can talk me through the uploading process I'd be very grateful.  Please use the cardboard big print version with pictures as I'm a bit of a simpleton around my PC!

 

B

 

Hi Ben,

 

Sorry i can't help you with the kit but i aim to adapt my Hornby building too with a canopy extended down the platform albeit much shorter and the red brick on the chimneys really do stand out to me that i need to repaint them. 

 

Thanks for doing the pictures if you click the 'reply with attachments' button at the bottom right of the reply box that should allow you to click the 'choose file' button where you go through your folders to find your pictures which if you click 'open' when they are highlighted they should begin to load at the bottom of your text box. Be aware though that rmweb has a 1MB size limit so you may need to open and export them outside of rmweb to a smaller file size (KB are smaller). Once they have fully loaded you should be able to click 'add to post' to put them in. I notice some people use photobucket but i don't have a clue how to do that. I'm probably not the best person to explain this as i use OSX instead of windows so it may be slightly different for you,

 

Feel free to PM me if you encounter any problems,

 

Gary

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Just found the thread. This is definitely an interesting project and will follow with interest. I like models of preserved locations.

 

Thanks Andy, I to share the same interest in preserved railways, hope you found the track plan you were asking about even though its not very well detailed at all.

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Yes I found the track plan. Do your train lengths assume you are using Mark 1 coaches?

 

Yes they do although the platforms can accommodate a 4ft length train (just coaches) slightly longer than 4 mark 1 coaches just so it doesn't look too cramped as i want the platforms to look longer than they really are. Platform 1 should even be able to take a 5 coach rake although this is too long for my fiddleyard.

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That is quite impressive in such a limited space.

 

Thanks the only downside is the trains don't get much of a run although that wouldn't be much different whatever station i have on a 8' long board. By using the SMP point kits (similar to Peco medium radius points) it also saves the space too. I do aim to extend the layout in the future eastwards as there ain't much in the way of scenery on these two boards.

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Hi Gary

 

If you can finish the layout by 1st August, perhaps we can find space for it at our Exmoor Rail show, at The Minehead Eye - just 100 yards from the actual location!! 

 

Best of luck

 

exmoordave

 

Hi Dave,

 

Sorry the layout isn't that advanced yet (its still in the baseboard / track laying stages). Its first exhibition will be the Blackpool and North Fylde Model Railway Club's in 2016 giving me a year to finish it. Still i'm pretty taken aback by the offer though as it would have been such an appropriate location for it to go,

 

Kind regards,

 

Gary

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Hello all,

 

Considering this is a layout thread there hasn't been much in the way of the layout apart from buying a station building. Over the past few months however i have been building the baseboards which can be seen below:

 

post-16460-0-85897100-1432826125_thumb.jpg

 

post-16460-0-33292300-1432826100_thumb.jpg

 

post-16460-0-35116800-1432826061_thumb.jpg

 

post-16460-0-40154900-1432826080_thumb.jpg

 

As you can see they are made up out of 9mm birch ply frames and tops with the fiddleyard made out of normal 9mm ply because that is what i had left over from another project. The fiddleyard will consist of a traverser which is easy enough saying it but it took days to build annoying a few hours to screw the wood together and a weekend to align the draw runners properly as they seem to always want to hit some piece of wood when they are sliding and jam. Anyway it is running smoothly at the moment so i frantically put loads of screws into it to keep it in the right position.

 

post-16460-0-28856300-1432826138_thumb.jpg

 

Baseboards are aligned with pattern makers dowels i think and bolts to squeeze the boards together. Hopefully i can now crack on with more point building to get some track down and maybe even run a train (woah lets not get too carried away here!),

 

Kind regards,

 

Gary

 

 

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Hello all,

 

Well the layout is finally in its home at last which demonstrated the usefulness of adjustable legs on uneven carpet! Anyway this is how the layout looks now:

 

post-16460-0-28485200-1433180216_thumb.jpg

 

Rough track layout has been placed on the baseboards with buildings too (don't panic i'm not actually going to use that shed! Or water tower either). I think it will be doable in my space constraints whilst still keeping all the operational features.

 

post-16460-0-92238600-1433180233_thumb.jpg 

 

Here is the first 'low down' view of the signal box highlighting all the work needed to be done on it: interior, lighting to show the interior, repainting etc the list goes on and thats on a ready to plonk building too! Anyway i think the Hornby box is a copy of the Dunster one which was later moved to Minehead (don't quote me on this, i'm happy to be corrected!). Anyway next job is taking all the boards back downstairs again to get inspection pit and uncoupling holes cut out.

 

Thanks for reading and the likes and comments so far,

 

Gary

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Hi,

 

Been following your posts for a while as your space, and location, is the kind of layout that I am interested in.

 

I have to say your baseboard work looks excellent - looking forward to seeing your layout progress.

 

Can I ask a question on the point kits - since you say they are similar to peco medium radius ones - was it just a decision based on looks? and are they expensive?

 

Regards,

James

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Hi,

 

Been following your posts for a while as your space, and location, is the kind of layout that I am interested in.

 

I have to say your baseboard work looks excellent - looking forward to seeing your layout progress.

 

Can I ask a question on the point kits - since you say they are similar to peco medium radius ones - was it just a decision based on looks? and are they expensive?

 

Regards,

James

 

Hi James,

 

Thanks for the complements although the baseboards took two days solid of sanding to get them to look presentable as I like the light colour of the birch and don't intend in covering it with paint.

Oh yes the point kits wow where do i start. Size wise they are certainly smaller than large radius turnouts measuring approximately 27cm long. At about 8 quid each they are pretty cheap although you have to solder the vees and file the point blades (unlike the C & L i believe but these go up to £40 i believe) although this isn't really a big problem the main one is fitting the wing rails without breaking the plastic chairs. The only thing i would say is they are quite flimsy compared to the Peco ones and will need gluing down all underneath them to keep them flat. Anyway the reason i chose them was because i couldn't really be bothered to vary the thickness of packing underneath the track, they were cheaper than Peco and looked better too. 

 

To be honest i would just buy one and see how you feel making it. I can do a guide on them if anyone is interested? To be honest i kind of messed my first one up but learnt a lot from it- i think one costs £10 from marcway including postage which i don't think is too bad to see if you like them or not,

 

Feel free to ask more questions and thank you again for the kind words,

 

Gary

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Hi Gary,

 

Thanks for the info - the 'make it yourself' pointwork seems a bit scary to me - from a buying, and making, point of view. But as I progress in the hobby I'd like to have a go.

 

But at around a tenner they seem good value for money - and not too expensive to muck up experimenting. Do you need a lot of extra tools or gauges?

 

If you have time a couple of images might help - but don't let me distract you from the layout build - I'm looking forward to seeing progress on that too!!

 

All the best,

James

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Yes thats a very good point. Modelling pre-2008 means i don't have the two 'Y' points off the upper run-around loop either which means thats 2 less points to make! Operationally though it would be nice perhaps in the future to have a turntable to stop the spotters complaining that the engine is 'tender first' on the gala days,

 

Gary

Meh, not heard complaints on the east lancs railway, no turntable here.

Locos ran tender first more often than photos and books would have us believe as it doesn't make a great photo.

 

As a fellow beach layout builder I'll be following with interest

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Hi Gary,

 

Thanks for the info - the 'make it yourself' pointwork seems a bit scary to me - from a buying, and making, point of view. But as I progress in the hobby I'd like to have a go.

 

But at around a tenner they seem good value for money - and not too expensive to muck up experimenting. Do you need a lot of extra tools or gauges?

 

If you have time a couple of images might help - but don't let me distract you from the layout build - I'm looking forward to seeing progress on that too!!

 

All the best,

James

 

Hi James all the track feeds onto plastic sprews so no soldering to sleepers is necessary and all the track widths are done for you. I will post a guide to them later on. Thank you for your interest in the layout it is really spurring me on to progress on it.

 

Meh, not heard complaints on the east lancs railway, no turntable here.

Locos ran tender first more often than photos and books would have us believe as it doesn't make a great photo.

 

As a fellow beach layout builder I'll be following with interest

 

To be honest i actually think some engines look better travelling tender first  :O . Hopefully i will extend the layout after these boards are done as i really want to model some of the promenade and beach if possible

 

Kind regards,

 

Gary

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Meh, not heard complaints on the east lancs railway, no turntable here.

Locos ran tender first more often than photos and books would have us believe as it doesn't make a great photo.

 

As a fellow beach layout builder I'll be following with interest

I'd love to see a southern pacific cab forward running tender first. Apparently they were built in response to the train crews trying to get their locos running tender first to avoid asphyxiation in the long tunnels and snowsheds on the sp route. I imagine there would have been some huge locos on huge trains running tender first...
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Building an SMP Plastic Point Kit Part 1

 

In this guide i will show you how i made the points for my layout. This is by no means the best way to build them just my way using the tools i have available to me. So lets get on with it...

 

post-16460-0-48600900-1433258508_thumb.jpg

 

Here is the kit in its packaging from Marcway models. 

 

post-16460-0-28619800-1433258526_thumb.jpg

 

Included is: plastic sprue, 4 lengths of bullhead rail, plastic tie-bar, metal strip, point template and instruction manual.

 

post-16460-0-81051800-1433258538_thumb.jpg

 

The first job is to cut the flash between the chair tops. This is imperative otherwise the track will destroy the chair when you try to feed it through as well as make it difficult to feed the track too.

 

post-16460-0-78455700-1433258551_thumb.jpg

 

First stage after clipping the two plastic sprues together is feeding in the stock rail (two outer rails), this is relatively easy especially with thin nosed pliers. Make sure however that you curve the curved stock rail slightly before feeding through the chairs otherwise it may distort the point. 

 

post-16460-0-60747200-1433258571_thumb.jpg

 

After they are fed through they can be snipped off at the end (I use Xuron track cutters although a Dremel would work fine too with a cutting disk). Also note the thick part of the rail is the top whilst the thin part is the bottom of the bullhead rail.

 

post-16460-0-04143900-1433258582_thumb.jpg

 

After this i use a skewer and superglue to secure the sprues tightly; you have to pull them apart gently apply glue then push them back together. I have found this easier to do after the stock rails have been put on as they keep it relatively flat during gluing.

 

post-16460-0-38243100-1433260379_thumb.jpg

 

At this point i will slide the plastic tie-bar between the sleeper webbing and the rail into position. It is important to file down the tie-bar so they are flat as from Marcway the rivets protrude from the plastic resulting in a jerky movement and switch rails being above the stock ones. For this i used a Dremel with sanding attachment but wearing goggles ( mine are from Pound land!) as there is a large amount of debris as you are removing quite a lot of material

 

That is all for part one, hope you have found it interesting / informative,

 

Kind regards,

 

Gary

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