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Talyllyn Junction. The Station area has been started!


Jintyman
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Had a good look at the M&M kits at Kettering. They looked good and there were a couple of types I fancied. Don't recall for the life of me why I put the box back down but there was one detail that put me off. Can't have been important as I don't remember...

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A little bit more done on the LMS Vent Van, Railtec transfers added, a coat of Testors Dullcote and now awaiting the weathering process.

 

post-14906-0-97322100-1461492529_thumb.jpg

 

I will hopefully get some weathering done later on today, and hopefully an update later on.

 

Jinty ;)

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Guest bri.s

Nice wagon ,did you manage to get down and survey the station buildings and tunnel,or is that still on the todo list jinty

 

Brian

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Guest bri.s

Lovely looking van and your building up a very nice looking rake a few more wagons and they'll look very nice behind one of you kit built steamers

Lovely painting and weathering on them aswell

 

Brian

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Good evening,

 

I've gone a slightly different direction with the 16t mineral. I had some Bill Bedford W-iron etches laying around and I preferred them to the cast one piece units with the kit. Now they're fitted I've been looking through the suppliers of cast (brass) components and I can't seem to find anyone who does separate spring and axlebox castings.

 

Does anyone know of a supplier for these components please?

 

Jinty ;)

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Hi Jinty

Have to agree with the other comments, that van is simply stunning. I have to say your move from 4mm to 7mm was definitely the right choice as I think your talents would have been wasted in the smaller scale. Excellent work indeed.

All the best.

Cheers

Marcus

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Guest Isambarduk

Nice job, Jinty but please close up those links in the three link couplings (my pet hate!); it's so easy to do with solder at the time but quite easy to do with epoxy at this stage, and it will look so much more like the real thing.   David

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Nice job, Jinty but please close up those links in the three link couplings (my pet hate!); it's so easy to do with solder at the time but quite easy to do with epoxy at this stage, and it will look so much more like the real thing.   David

 

I've noticed that some modellers assemble 3-link couplings by opening up the links, like a letter C. That makes it difficult to fully close them afterwards, and maintain the proper U shape end with a straight back.

 

If you twist them open instead (looking a bit like a Pandrol clip), as you twist them back closed you can make sure the open ends come into firm close contact, and won't need any filling -- just a dab of paint.

 

Martin (who spent several years working in a chain factory smile.gif ).

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Guest Isambarduk

Martin - a man of many talents, I see!

 

Yes, I agree: I twist them sideways, clean up the ends with a fine file, fit them, apply a little flux, solder closed and finally wash away the remnants of the flux.  Simple and effective :-)

 

David

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Thank you all for the positive comments.

 

David and Martin, thank you for a simple solution to the mal-formed 'U' at the bottom of my 3-links. It's funny how the answer stares you in the face sometimes, a simple twist is all it will get in the future.

 

Jinty ;)

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Well, after much procrastination, and putting alternate castings together, I've finally made a start on my 8750 Pannier tank. She'll be 9651 of 86C (Hereford), in BR black livery.

I've just received a replacement chimney from Hobbyhorse (as well as a couple of other bits), excellent it is too. Add that casting to the other ones I've already got, and it should look the part (he hopes).

I've got an ABC 3-Stage Gearbox and Cannon motor for it, Premier jointed rods, Premier plunger pick-ups, and many more bits and pieces, so it's all ready to go until it's complete, it's just waiting on me to get my finger out.

 

I started with the frames. They have an outer half etched detail piece that is sweated onto the main frames. I chose to do this before fitting the stretcher pieces to the frames. This allowed me to cut the etched springs off so that the cast ones can be fitted. Also I've cut the frame ready for hornblocks on the front two axles. The rear axle will be fixed and I've drilled out the bearing hole to 5/16" and I've placed the roller bearings where the rear axle goes (I was going to fit roller bearings all round but they're too big for the hornblocks).

 

Here is the four main pieces of the frames before being sweated together. Note the roller bearings in the rear bearing holes.

 

post-14906-0-26181200-1461787884_thumb.jpg

 

After sweating the frame sides together, I then cleaned up and trimmed the stretcher pieces and upturned the chassis on a piece of glass and soldered it all together.

 

post-14906-0-42195900-1461787889_thumb.jpg

 

That's all for this evening, I'm hoping to have the hornguides in place over the next couple of nights.

 

Jinty ;)

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Looking forward to seeing this one come together.

86C would be Canton

 

 

Hi Steve,

 

86C was Canton up to 1961, then Hereford '61 - '65. I don't know why the allocations changed, but my research shows they did. I will be corrected if it's not of course.

 

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_British_Railways_shed_codes#Western_Region (copy and paste into address bar, as I can't get it to become a link!!!)

 

Jinty ;)

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An hour in the garage this morning sees the hornguides, hornblocks, jointed rods and the jig trial fitted into the frames. There needs to be some more checking of measurements and free play before the hornguides are soldered into place.

 

Here is a quick snap of the scene as I leave for work.

 

post-14906-0-26844400-1461829364_thumb.jpg

 

Hopefully a bit more later

 

Jinty ;)

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Hi Jinty.

 

Those vans look really superb, so life like, fantastic workmanship. Great stuff and truly inspirational.

 

Looking forward to seeing your progress on the Panier tank.

 

It seems to me that you are almost back to your high speed modelling which we all enjoyed in the earlier days of this thread.

 

Keep it up.

 

Rod

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Doh of course. Canton changed to 88A at the same time. I really should do my research before posting!!

 

 

Hi Steve,  I very often do the same myself on quite a few occasions.

 

 

You make these things look so easy Jinty!!

 

Cheers

 

 

Thanks Paul, but I can assure you it isn't that easy from this viewpoint. The Pannier has a different kind of method to the construction that I'm used to.

 

 

 

It seems to me that you are almost back to your high speed modelling which we all enjoyed in the earlier days of this thread.

 

 

 

Thank you Rod, as for the speed, it's not quite up there yet, but I'm hoping I can steam through this Pannier as there is another 2 57xx's on the shelf and I need some motive power.

 

Jinty ;)

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Hi,

Very inspirational thread - especially when I'm supposed to be decorating! Apologies for an inexperienced question but when you say you've cut the frames for the hornblocks, what is the best tool to use to cut (and for that matter drill) brass?

Thanks!

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