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Little Midland


Chrislock

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Hi Chris smile.gif

 

That is comming along really well. There arent many people around who would tackle such a project like that so its to your credit. I love the little ramp too, a fantastic bit of modelling.

 

This is my kind of modelling for sure.

 

Missy smile.gif

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Hi Chris smile.gif

 

That is comming along really well. There arent many people around who would tackle such a project like that so its to your credit. I love the little ramp too, a fantastic bit of modelling.

 

This is my kind of modelling for sure.

 

Missy smile.gif

 

 

Nice of you to stop by again Missy! :)

 

Here is the ramp with the wheels sorted out, thanks to Kevin's suggestion of using a little etch from Taylor precision models:

 

post-5408-128014890932.jpg

 

 

FWIW the etches were a little thin to use alone, so I decided to compromise on the daylight- showing- through factor, and stick them directly to the surface of the little brass discs.

The tiny spokes will show up better once it painted ( I hope!).

 

Chris

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the only downside is, I can't find them on the current NGS or Ultima Models lists, so it doesn't look like they're available at present. :unsure:

 

We have the artwork and masks - it's just on the pile of stuff that has yet to be re-run

 

Alan

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We have the artwork and masks - it's just on the pile of stuff that has yet to be re-run

 

Alan

 

Alan, they are available from Bernard Taylor at TP models.

You can see the wheels on the completed ramp above.

Cheers,

Chris

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Class 2 more or less ready to roll:

 

post-5408-002718500 1283895161_thumb.jpg

 

And the 1F as finished as it is ever going to be:

 

post-5408-007210900 1283895573_thumb.jpg

 

I think I am going to take a break from loco building for a while, before I tackle my fourth, which will be quite demanding. I really have to up the ante considerably on the accuracy, finish and motorisation aspects.

I don't actually think these two examples ( or the Spinner)are good enough to give a public airing to, having seen some work out there.

Maybe the 2mm association will run a seminar which would help me greatly. Working in a vacuum, even with a forum such as this, is hard.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Greetings.

I thought I would post a couple of pics of my latest 2mm toe in the water, a Matthew Kirtley outside framed 2-4-0 passenger engine.

By 1910 these would be found on secondary lines as well as on mainlines still.

I have gone for the 6'2" wheels, double splasher version ( 150 class I believe).

Many thanks to Steve Rabone for help with the drawing.

 

Here is the beginning, showing boiler, with fixtures and Speccie plate not as yet attached:

 

post-5408-079854200 1286040080_thumb.jpg

 

I have been pondering how to accurately extend the drive axles of the association wheels. I was going to ask Gordon Solloway to help, but decided in the end to try it myself.. well you've got to just give it a go sometimes! Not owning a lathe, I had to improvise, putting the wheel axle into the chuck of my minidrill, and using a 0.65mm drill bit held in my pin vice. The first wheel went perfectly and spins true enough for a crank to later be added:

 

post-5408-022130800 1286040096_thumb.jpg

 

I am hoping that the wheel will be concealed enough behid the frames for the centre crank not to show too much.

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That looks very nice. Interesting thoughts about adding the cranks.

 

Well one advantage of posting a picture after you've finished a spell of work is that it shows graphically what you need to change, so I have today straightened the front boiler band and relaid some of the splasher covers to neaten them up!

Can't really do much more at present, apart from a cleanup, so its back in the box for a while.

Well until the order from EE of new drills arrives, I can finish the other wheels and then begin on the chassis. I've got that more or less worked out now, though I'm still deciding whether to use a Union Mills or scratchbuild a tender/ drive.

The UM is great ( and a simpler solution :rolleyes: ) but a little overscale at 1/148. However the Class 2 above looks ok with one, and the two locos have to work side by side in the end.

Question : does this mean I am not a genuine 2mmFS modeller, but merely working in fiNescale?

:blink:

 

Regards,

Chris

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The UM is great ( and a simpler solution :rolleyes: ) but a little overscale at 1/148. However the Class 2 above looks ok with one, and the two locos have to work side by side in the end.

Question : does this mean I am not a genuine 2mmFS modeller, but merely working in fiNescale?

:blink:

 

Regards,

Chris

 

If it means that you're a fiNescaler then most 2mm'lers are laugh.gif

 

 

 

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If it means that you're a fiNescaler then most 2mm'lers are laugh.gif

 

Well it is interesting to note that a few modellers on the VAG seem to be happy with regauged and detailed Farish etc, which are built to 1/148; while others scratchbuild to the absolute scale.

It brought it home to me when I scaled down the Kirtley drawing so that the boiler diameter was correct (9mm) and then matched it with a UM tender.

Dilemma : scale the engine accurately, or increase its size ( significantly width) to match the UM tender, which would stretch the boiler width to 9.5mm?

I decided the latter, as I would like to get a railway running running in the not too distant future, and scratching a tender would add significantly to the build time/ complexity, at a time when point building is my priority.

 

By the way Kris, I have been following your own work with interest. I saw Avonwick at the Expo.

 

Regards,

Chris

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Well it is interesting to note that a few modellers on the VAG seem to be happy with regauged and detailed Farish etc, which are built to 1/148; while others scratchbuild to the absolute scale.

 

At the risk of being ostracised as a heretic - I would suggest that there has to be a pragmatic balance...

 

Absolute perfection is an understandable target - BUT - it comes a cost; this is usually time. I see no justifiable objection to finely 'improved' RTR models; these can fettled and detailed to an equivalent standard, and whilst the dimensions may not be 100% perfect, they are generally close enough to 'deceive' the Mk1 eyeball! A half mm discrepancy in boiler diameter is virtually undetectable and only represents 3 inches, but if taken to extremes, could significantly delay the project...

 

...the bottom line is this - is it better to actually produce something that captures the essence of the prototype in a reasonable time/expense (at the cost of slight imperfections) or to produce an absolute 100% accurate masterpiece, which will eventually be completed perfectly... ... in this balance between the 'engineer' and the 'artist', I have to side with the 80% solution.

 

There is of course the added bonus, a layout with enhanced RTR stock can be operated and appreciated, whist the idealised stock is produced slow time...

 

post-6085-076493700 1286220302_thumb.gif

(I've brought my own noose for the anticipated lynch-mob...)

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Chris

 

It may of been said many times before but it's your hobby go with what you want. Like you say, you would like to get something running and like Steve says what's half a mil between freinds ,you could all ways scratch build a new one at a later date when you feel you have more time. My 1p is on its second bodie and chassis to get more weight into it but at the time of the original build I was very happy with it and still am proud of that first attempt.It is looking an excelent little engine and looks like your beat me to an outside frame loco must admit one would look good on Witney any chance of a set of drawings ;)

 

Mark

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Some cracking work there Chris.

 

If the UM tender drive option works for you, then that's the way to go - after all, this hobby is supposed to be fun! Some of the best models on show at the 2mm Scale Association AGM on Saturday were conversions/adaptions of N gauge RTR, so no-one is going to get ostracised as a heretic for anything like that.

 

Incidentally, do you know if Union Mills sell the bits of their locos separately?

 

Andy

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Hi Steve :

"At the risk of being ostracised as a heretic - I would suggest that there has to be a pragmatic balance... "

I must admit I posted this rather tongue-in-cheek and would probably have incurred the lynch mob myself if I'd done it on the VAG ( although it did cross my mind to, if only because it might trigger an interesting discussion ;) ).

I only wish I could aspire to the standards of , say, Tim Watson, but I recognise I am more the artist than the engineer, so working at the level I am is taxing me enough!

For me the finished picture will be the important thing, but having said that I want to try to be as true as I can to things like scale and accuracy, within reason!

Actually, the boiler diameter was closer to .7mm - the measurements I gave were approximate- which is visibly different on the complete overall engine size.

Nice to met you at TINGS by the way.

 

Chris

 

It is looking an excelent little engine and looks like your beat me to an outside frame loco must admit one would look good on Witney any chance of a set of drawings ;)

 

Mark

 

Hi Mark.

 

I wasn't going to start another engine but I had some 12mm wheels knocking around, some spare brass..and have come to a grinding halt with points ( boring) and 6-wheelers ( gonna have to find some different chassis - those Stoves too long! Which did you recommend again?) :lol:

 

Can't say I will beat you to anything because I have yet to order some bits and pieces and to complete those tricky axle extensions.

 

One reason I chose a 2-4-0 is because I thought you were working on one of those equally lovely 0-6-0 outside frames... for me they are both great little engines.

 

Chris

ps Check your email soon regarding future WE engine roster... ;)

 

What I'm trying to build:

 

post-5408-029419100 1286225666_thumb.jpg

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Some cracking work there Chris.

 

If the UM tender drive option works for you, then that's the way to go - after all, this hobby is supposed to be fun! Some of the best models on show at the 2mm Scale Association AGM on Saturday were conversions/adaptions of N gauge RTR, so no-one is going to get ostracised as a heretic for anything like that.

 

Incidentally, do you know if Union Mills sell the bits of their locos separately?

 

Andy

 

Thanks Andy. It look better now the splashers and boiler has been tidied.

I can't really help with your UM question, because I have only asked about the tenders.

Colin seems a helpful chap though so worth giving him a ring. He is away until Wednesday I think.

What were you after?

Cheers

Chris

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Hi Chris,

 

I was wondering if UM sell the cast bodies separately (specifically the GCR D11 Director). I will drop Colin Heard a line and ask.

 

thanks,

 

Andy

 

Andy, as Nick says, ring Colin - but his answerphone says away until tomorrow.

 

Do you know if Gordon actually custom builds wheels?

Cheers

Chris

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the chassis are 6 wheel clemison chassis

 

Thanks Mark. I've printed off the list and will email Bob to see if they still have any.

Alas Aldershot would be stretching " popping over" for me. Good luck with it.

Chris

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Totally inspiring stuff. Really.

 

As an absolute imbecile in these matters: Is this a kit or completely scratch-built? And if the latter, how do you (broadly in outline) go about it?

 

Southernboy,

Totally inspiring or Sometimes frustrating - I'm not sure ! :blink:

 

I assume you mean the latest venture which will have a scratchbuilt brass body and a Union Mills cut down and detailed tender ( which will still be a tad overscale unfortunately).

 

I too am still finding my way with this area of modelling and so am probably not the best equipped to offer expert advice.

The 2mm FS Association VAG can seem a little intimidating for newcomers. However, the guys I've met in person, including the officials, are fantastic so maybe its just that the VAG is not necessarily the best place to seek advice as a novice.The advice is generally just to have a go - which can prove costly in wasted materials!

 

The wheels, rods,jigs etc are purchased from the 2mm Association shopkeepers - you need to be a member to have access - worth the membership fee manifold over in my opinion. The boiler fittings, buffers and handrail knobs are from Nick at N-Brass who you can google - and find at various 2mm exhibitions.

 

If you genuinely don't know where to start feel free to send me a private email.

 

Regards,

Chris

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Hello Chris,

 

My question was probably too broad and I'd be better posting more specific queries elsewhere as and when.

I do belong to the 2mm Association and subscribe to the VAG.

 

Thanks for your kind offer to PM, and if necessary at some point I'll take you up on it :)

 

Mark

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