Whether to Weather with Muz a staged approach

[Graham_Muz]

There are a number of methods that can be used to weather rolling stock and many have been already described previous versions of RMweb. I thought I would post the method that I use.

 

The end result will hopefully be something like this.

 

or

 

 

I break the process into a number of stages:

1) dry brush base colours of brake dust, rusts and water streaks etc

2) a dirty wash from the top down using a highly thinned dirty mix

3) track / dirt colour is finally lightly airbrushed from the bottom upwards, this is sprayed over the dry brushed colours to give depth and means that from a distance a more overall dirt colour is seen however as you get closer the other weathering colours of rust etc show though.

 

Stage 1

I dry brush a number of base colours to highlight various chassis details, rivets, corners and crevices etc. The colours I use are Phoenix Precision paints P963 brake dust, followed by P951 Dark Rust, then P950 light rust. The dark rust should be used first with the light rust on top. Matt white is used to create water streaks etc. Don't worry that the colours look to bright at this stage as they will be toned down by the following two stages. A few examples of this stage follow.

 

[Graham_Muz]

Stage 2

 

This involves a dirty wash of very thinned dirt colour for which I use a mixture of Precision Paints P982 Weathering (sooty deposits) and other colours such as dirty black and leather. I also use dirty thinners from my brush washing jar (but this depends on what main colours I have used recently, although it usually ends up a dirty grey colour once its all mixed up)

I apply using a large soft brush froom the top down to create streaks on tank sides etc. I also dab off excess with a chisel pointed shaped piece of foam and cotton buds. A stipple effect is also used on the boiler tops to create the effect of soot deposits etc from the chimney.

This can be done to varying degrees depending on the level of weathering you require. On the Malachite green locos shown below the effect I wanted is slightly more subtle and I am not sure how well it will show in the pictures.

 

[Graham_Muz]

Job Done..Stage 3

 

This involves the use of an airbrush (or can be done with the bounce spray technique from an aerosol can see post below).

The black locos have a two part process which includes an initial dusting spray of Precision Paints P981 dirty black from the top.

All locos are sprayed from the bottom upwards with a brownish grey track colour. The basis for the colour I use is an old Humbrol colour HS215 that I stocked up on many years ago. I also mix it with Precision Paints P977 track colour and some Railmatch 406 sleeper grime. This combination is quite heavily thinned and I keep the mixed pot between weathering sessions and just add to it.

To a certain extent I bounce the spray from just in front of the loco but some areas are lightly sprayed directly.

When spraying over the wheels and motion I give a first very light coat and then rotate the wheels before a second light coat is added. This ensures no area of the wheels etc is missed by the spray being blocked by the connecting rods etc.

The front and rear of the locos are also lightly sprayed and I also make sure that front faces of items like the cylinders and tank fronts are also included.

 

[Graham_Muz]

Bounce Spray Technique

 

This technique is quite simply really and is useful for those who don't own an airbrush. I use Halfords Vauxhall Brazil Brown.

 

It involves using a normal suitable colour aerosol can and bouncing the spray off a scrap piece of wood or card in front of the model rather than on the model itself. The spray from the can should be aimed a couple of inches in front of the model at an angle of approx 30 degrees. I would stand the model on a spare / scrap piece of ply or mdf and bounce the spray off this. I would also recommend a practice spray with a block of wood to represent the model as the spray pattern from each can is liable to variation.

[Graham_Muz]

Tips and terms

 

Dry brushing

This is where the brush has the majority of the paint wiped off before applying it to the model. It is particularly useful for highlighting raised areas etc. Lightly dip the brush to pick up a small amount of paint, wipe any excess on a tissue until there is very little paint left on the brush (hence the name ???‚¬??drybrush???‚¬?„?). To apply to the model, lightly brush over the model so the paint catches on the raised detail, or dab into corners etc. A soft flat brush is best for this job (although I should warn you it will soon deteriorate the brush!)

 

Thinned wash

A "wash" is basically a mixture of highly thinned paint, the mixture I used with enamels is usually about 80/20 thinner to paint, but this varies depending on the result required. A large soft brush is best used. Excess wash can be dabbed off using a sponge or cotton bud.

 

Airbrushing

The cheaper airbrushes and spray guns work with a single action mechanism where the depression of a single "trigger" and are more than suitable for this weathering technique especially where the bounce spray method (see below) is used.

Double action airbrushes separate the function for air and paint flow so that the user can control the volume of airflow and the concentration of paint. This allows for greater control and a wider variety of effects especially when spraying directly on to the model itself but I have not found it necessary for this process.

 

Bouncing spray

This technique is simply bouncing the spray off a scrap piece of wood or card placed directly in front of the model and gives a lighter mist effect than spraying directly on the model directly. This method would also allow the use of a suitable colour aerosol spray can rather than an airbrush to achieve a similar effect where you can not easily control the density of the paint leaving the spray can.

 

Weathering powders

These are a usually finely ground powder, or coloured chalks intended for brushing onto models to give a weathered and used effect rather than dry brushing or even using an airbrush. There are powders sold especially for modelling, however you can also go to an Art shop and get a selection of coloured chalks. Using a craft blade a little heap of powder can be quickly scraped off and used. Don't go for the oil-based types as they aren't chalk, and won't make powder. Use a flat head paintbrush and gently brush on the powder following the way dust would settle on the real vehicle. Dust thrown up by tracks would be upward from the tracks and angled towards the rear of the vehicle. Settled dust on the top of the footplate, for example, would be slight but plenty in and around the corners and crevices. The advantage with powders is that you can remove the effect if too heavy with more brushing with a clean brush. Some powder types will require some form of ???‚¬??fixing???‚¬?„? after application with a suitable varnish in order to withstand handling.

 

Acrylics

Some acrylics dry too fast to be of any use for dry brushing. You'll end up with an unusable stiff brush. It is possible to obtain Acrylic Retarder to add to your dry brush colour mix; this will slow the drying time down enough to allow for dry brushing. Alternatively I have successfully used artist's tube oil paints instead as these dry much slower.

[bmthtrains - David]

Stuning work, highly inspirational!

 

David

[Andy C]

Your comment about double action v single action airbrushes interested me Graham - I have both a single action and a double action airbrush, but on weathering jobs always opt for the DA badger. I find it easier to control and get the effect i want especially if you are doing the patient build up of grime bit!

 

When its next "grime time" I must do a direct comparison - I will let you know the results!

[Graham_Muz]

Your comment about double action v single action airbrushes interested me Graham - I have both a single action and a double action airbrush, but on weathering jobs always opt for the DA badger. I find it easier to control and get the effect i want especially if you are doing the patient build up of grime bit!

 

When its next "grime time" I must do a direct comparison - I will let you know the results!

 

Hi Andy

 

The origin of the text above was from an article I penned for the Hornby Magazine so was purposely simplified a bit. I myself in fact do use a Double Acting but did/do not want to give the impression that it was totally necessary particularly when doing light weathering.

I would agree that if going for a much heavier and varied grime look then the greater flexibility of a DA airbrush helps, although to some respect the same can be achieved by varying the pressure and or distance from the model with a SA airbrush as accuracy of edges and blends etc. are not generally so critical when weathering.

[Andy C]

Ahh now i follow!!

 

trouble is you now have me a bit curious so I might just try it anyway - have my initial mix up in the SA and the tonal stuff in the DA. Sounds good on paper, but then I think double the cleaning time ??? Hmm maybe not.

 

Impromptu weathering clinic / discussion behind New Hey this weekend? (if Andy gives you time off for good behaviour!!) - I will have a bottle of single malt, just for socialising purposes y'know!!

[Graham_Muz]

Ahh now i follow!!

 

trouble is you now have me a bit curious so I might just try it anyway - have my initial mix up in the SA and the tonal stuff in the DA. Sounds good on paper, but then I think double the cleaning time ??? Hmm maybe not.

 

Well with the DA you should be able to replicate the full mix of the SA without using two brushes.

 

 

Impromptu weathering clinic / discussion behind New Hey this weekend? (if Andy gives you time off for good behaviour!!) - I will have a bottle of single malt, just for socialising purposes y'know!!

 

Sound like a good plan, as I let Andy have time off for a fag I mean fresh air, I am sure I can get over for the discussion over a dram!

[Guest jim s-w]

Hi Graham

 

Good tutorials but you forgot the number 1 rule, in fact probably the 1 rule that is more important than all of the others put together

 

That is - ALWAYS work from a prototype photo.

 

Cheers

 

Jim

[Graham_Muz]

Hi Graham

 

Good tutorials but you forgot the number 1 rule, in fact probably the 1 rule that is more important than all of the others put together

 

That is - ALWAYS work from a prototype photo.

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 

Indeed Jim a very very valid point. Thanks for raising it.

 

regards

[Guest jim s-w]

Hi Graham

 

No problem buddy - you know when you just do something and its so matter of course that you don't even think about it?

 

Cheers

 

Jim

[10800]

But it is a point that seems to need reiterating from time to time, strange though it may seem. I always recall the photo near the beginning of Martyn Welch's book of a utility van that had been just splattered with a cheap airbrush and presented as an example of good weathering. One wonders just what the creator of this had been thinking of.

 

It's like layouts being based on other layouts rather than the real thing - at best you get pastiche and at worst a complete distancing from what should be your source material.

[Metropolitan]

You might like to add how to reverse the process Graham... Turps or Fairy Liquid??

[wiggoforgold]

Hi Graham

I'm planning to follow your staged approach on my next model. One question. At stage 3 you say that when painting the wheels and motion you rotate the wheels between coats. Do you rotate the wheels under power while painting to prevent everything gumming up, or do you simply rotate manually between coats? Do you take any precautions to prevent things gumming up?

Alex

[Graham_Muz]

Hi Graham

I'm planning to follow your staged approach on my next model. One question. At stage 3 you say that when painting the wheels and motion you rotate the wheels between coats. Do you rotate the wheels under power while painting to prevent everything gumming up, or do you simply rotate manually between coats? Do you take any precautions to prevent things gumming up?

Alex

 

Hi Alex

 

I add a drop of oil to all moving parts on the wheels and motion prior to any spraying this prevents any gumming up and also adds a slight sheen to the motion afterwards too.

I do not spray with the wheels under power but between light coats rotate with a little power at least 90 degrees to ensure now shadows of con rods etc occur.

 

A further mix of gunmetal, satin black and leather paints can be brush painted on to the motion and lightly polished once dry to give the grease covered / laden effect that some motions ended with.

 

I hope that helps and look forward to seeing your results.

[mattingleycustom]

Hi Alex

 

I add a drop of oil to all moving parts on the wheels and motion prior to any spraying this prevents any gumming up and also adds a slight sheen to the motion afterwards too.

I do not spray with the wheels under power but between light coats rotate with a little power at least 90 degrees to ensure now shadows of con rods etc occur.

 

A further mix of gunmetal, satin black and leather paints can be brush painted on to the motion and lightly polished once dry to give the grease covered / laden effect that some motions ended with.

 

I hope that helps and look forward to seeing your results.

 

Graham,

 

I remember reading your article on weathering in Hornby Magazine and thinking to myself, 'well, that's roughly how I do it'. The only major difference is that for any weathered loco I like to start with the 'fall of soot' from above; just a light spray of RailMatch 403 roof grey, which helps with keying the paint when going on to the next stage with the paint brush.

 

When weathering the wheels, I use a light spray of either grey or grey/brown aimed towards the lower part of slowly rotating wheels and then less heavily to the wheel centres and motion, applying a little oil to the valve gear joints when I've finished.

 

I agree with Jim that it is always better to work from a prototype photo, but I will say that people's perception of what looks right varies considerably from the photographic truth. For example I've seen many weathered Bachmann 9Fs simply sprayed brown below the running plate and grey above it, sell for stupid money on Ebay. It doesn't look right to me, but it obviously does to many others.

 

Glenn

[Dr.Glum]

Hello Graham,

 

Thank you very much for taking the trouble to put this thread up on the web. IMHO it's exactly the sort of effort that makes the difference between a chat room and a vital resource. It does encourage people like me who have never weathered a piece of rolling stock that maybe after all it is something that they can attempt.

 

Now a question. I always assumed that white limescale water marking occurred when dissolved impurities were deposited from condensing steam as it cooled. You have white water marks from tank filler cap areas e.g. on the tender of No.746 and the side tanks of No.676. I've not noticed (or not been looking for) this in photographs. So do you have a comment please?

 

Cheers, Tony

[Tall Yorkist]

Just found this thread - thanks for such helpful, clear and friendly advice. Your work looks superb. I hadn't been tempted to have a go myself at weathering before, but when I get around to it, this will be my starting point. Thank you for the inspiration.

[RBE]

Indeed Jim a very very valid point. Thanks for raising it.

 

regards

 

Wize words to use reference photos, however also choose a good representative photo. Take a look at a few example photos of the item you are weathering and do a 'typical' scheme. Such is life there are many instances that show wierd or bizarre things that happen in real life from time to time which weather things in a none typical manner. If you inadvertantly copy this on your model then although correct for what you have observed will ultimately not sit right with anyone viewing the model. It may not be 100% apparent to them whats wrong but their brain will tell them it is.

 

Nice work on the tutorial none the less. B)

 

Cheers

Cav

[RBE]

Hello Graham,

 

Thank you very much for taking the trouble to put this thread up on the web. IMHO it's exactly the sort of effort that makes the difference between a chat room and a vital resource. It does encourage people like me who have never weathered a piece of rolling stock that maybe after all it is something that they can attempt.

 

Now a question. I always assumed that white limescale water marking occurred when dissolved impurities were deposited from condensing steam as it cooled. You have white water marks from tank filler cap areas e.g. on the tender of No.746 and the side tanks of No.676. I've not noticed (or not been looking for) this in photographs. So do you have a comment please?

 

Cheers, Tony

 

Also to answer this. White deposits are from dissolved impurities as you say, however not from being deposited by steam, the opposite in fact is true. Steam has no impurities as the action of vapourisation leaves impurities behind. This is how distillation works by evapourating the water and recondensing the pure water vapour in condenser tubes to collect the pure water in a seperate container. White deposits occur when water with its impurities (not steam) runs or pools on a surface and the water is then allowed to evaporate away. This then leaves the dissolved impurities behind on the surface. This occurs more readily on warm or hot surfaces as the water is evaporated into steam more quickly before the water has any chance to run away. It would probably be less prominant on the tender as this is cool. But could certainly occur, especially on a warm day.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Cheers

Cav

[Graham_Muz]

Many thanks for the recent flurry of posts on this topic, it's good to know that it still gets read and is of help and use to some people. I hope it encourages a few people to have a go at weathering, it really isn't a 'Dark Art'.

 

Cav has beaten me to answering the question of the white water deposit marks, and the only thing I would also add is that it also varies from the location in the country and the source of water being used. Also yes although I model the period 1946 to 1949 the service levels and style traffic run (e.g. my Devon Belle set) along with lighting, foliage and ground cover used on my layout implies that it is indeed summer.

 

 

[Isambard Kingdom Brunel]

Good thread, do you use a varnish before weathering? I've read this somewhere and seems sensible to keep the original livery secure.

[Graham_Muz]

Hi Terry

 

I very rarely varnish a whole model unless I have been using waterslide decals, but I generally use the HMRS Pressfix range. Vanishing tends to give the whole of the model the same level of flatness all over whereas some areas such as smokeboxes would more matt than other areas.

 

If I have simply renumbered a loco and have removed factory apllied decals I do just use a satin varnish spray locally to loose the slight gloss area that appears as a result of rubbing the factory decals off.

 

I hope that helps.