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John, my own knowledge is limited to the Mk3 couplings (I use the 3mm ones), so I have no practical experience of the difference between Ml1 and Mk3. These photos of Mk1 (left) and Mk3 (right) suggest the only difference is the shape of the hook. As for radius, my layouts are small without much curvature, so it hasn't been an issue for me. Can others help?

I use the 3mm Mk3's as seen above on the right - they are less obtrusive than the 4mm version and have a delayed uncoupling action, so are far more versatile. My curves are 24" with one or two yard ones a bit less and I have no problems with them, with the proviso that my stock are all handed so there is a coupling at one end only.

It is as far as I can see!

Ah yes, another good reason for magnetic sides. I've been looking at this photo and thinking it would make a nice display item in itself, when not in use. Especially if the light could be kept on.

Cheers Mikkel, Might be worth trying the Crafty paper, the stuff I had was about 6 years old if I remember correctly. Getting in to fit passengers is easy with the magnetic sides. I have a few of Andy Staddens seated Edwardians, but I think I will buy some more or try a few other suppliers and paint them over the winter.

Hi Bennybob, I put considerable effort into developing a method which would allow me to work on the coach sides on the flat then simply fit them in place. Then take them on and off again as many times as I want without any difficulty. Clean the insides, move the passengers about, that sort of thing. The simple answer is magnets, have a read of the blog two back ; If you have look through the blog as a whole you will see that it is a continuing theme for me. Causes a wry smile and I do tend to waffle on a bit but there is method in my madness. I try to make models which are easily maintained, probably as a result of spending lifetime trying to sort out things which are a nightmare to maintain due to bad design. So I have buildings and stock with the roofs held on by magnets. Electrical sub assemblies which slot into place. Signals which plug in and couple to the servos magnetically. Compensation beams with screw adjustment for ride height. Baseboards that lift up like a car bonnet so I can get at the gubbins underneath easily. The whole layout on castors. All for ease of maintenance. If I needed to decorate or do serious work to the room I could remove all the delicate stuff and wheel the whole layout into a different room in a few hours. As I said I waffle on a bit, but there some useful ideas in there.

Ok, a very harsh closeup. Not perfect, but better than I could do by hand.

Trying not to start a new thread and this seems relevant. Two queries:- 1) I have a pack of what must be Mk1s bought two, even three, decades ago and not used due to (2) below. What is the difference between these and the Mk3s now being sold? 2) What is the minimum radius they can be used on? I had been told 3ft (which is why the set I bought ages ago have never been used) but recall seeing a recent note somewhere that a newer version exists for tighter radius curves. I have used them before when helping on other people's layouts so it is only the radius issue that is stopping me - no space for 3ft curves, hence the question.

I simply could not resist those sweeping curves! One step at a time - I've not even thought about wheels yet

Aha! That's an interesting technique, Dave, looks very good to me. You can't see that it's double-layered either, which is a little surprising. I also have some old Crafty paper, but it looks like I shouldn't be counting on that. It's a shame they closed, they had some interesting products. Thanks for the tip about Mister decal paper. In the midst of all the excitement about the panels, I think your interior deserve a mention too (the coach interior, not yours!). Looks excellent. Will there be passengers? Always a dilemma, I think.

Looks pretty good to me. I don't think I could achieve that standard even by following your technique, but it does seem to be a practical approach to a very difficult problem and has enabled you to produce excellent results without having to get the hang of those lining pens which I gave up on long ago. Congratulations. The carriage seating is pretty impressive too.

Thanks. Looks good to me!

Might be worth having a go at printing a cream panel with the lining round it.

An excellent solution to the lining problem. I’ll try it on my pre 1900 GWR coaches if I can get cream transfer paper! Duncan