wasdavetheroad

The variable ESC acceleration implementation is better than the Deltang version because it has seperate settings for braking,not important for me as I don't use the Tx inertia knob either. I notice the M601 does not have the 3rd Selecta option allowing change to a different Tx controlling that locomotive. I think it was used for passing locos between operators on a big layout. By following the correct setup procedure you could have a TRUE consist, I think only one per Tx . I tried it and it worked. For example I had 2 speed matched locos on selecta 4 and 5 and position 6 controlled them both. The locos could operate independently or combined. I did not use it much and decided that having a 12 loco Tx capacity was better. I have bought 2 Micron M601 receivers, both of which are still in the testing stage and a M603 receiver used to control a tiny locomotive via track power. Micron confirmed the M603 has short circuit protection on the motor output so the Rx won't fry when you short out the rails!. I must get round to providing a description of why and how I did it.

My experience of Deltang receivers, Micron may be similar, is when idle the Rx consumes about 15mA per hour, there may be an auto shutdown after 1 hour idle but that is adjustable

A few years ago I tried out a receiver board from BlueRail Trains that switched automatically from track power to an onboard battery if the track power failed. I only tested it on the rolling road but the change either way appeared seamless. Unfortunately it was too big to fit in any loco and used a smart phone app. No way, I much prefer knobs, switches and buttons with tactile feedback allowing you to look at the loco while controlling it. I did calculate that all the 'fiddly' bits of my layout 'dead' were about 1/3 of the length which would extend the battery life by 3x. No need for a stay alive!

Thanks for the inspiration. Now i have a use for the 100+ spare Zeiss lens wipes I bought by mistake . 150mm x 130mm when flat and the alchohol has evaporated.

If you decide to have a dehumidifier buy the dessicating type, they work well down to low temperatures. Mine mantains a steady 40% humidity and contributes a little toward frost protection.

Thanks

What is the purpose of this pipework forward of the tank? I tried searching online with no success, obviously because I did not use the correct search terms.

I think waiting 3 minutes for a model turntable to rotate 180 degrees would drive me crazy. I want to turn the loco, not stand there waiting, 30 seconds seems a long time to me. I remember admiring a beautiful BLT at an exhibition. No trains moving so I asked when the next one was due. He looked at his watch and said '3 quarters of an hour, I am running the Saturday timetable.' It was Saturday. I replied, i like the trees and backed off rapidly. If i ran a real Sunday service on my layout there would be a couple of excursion trains and a curtailed local passenger service. No pickup goods, no shunting in the exchange sidings etc.

Nice, yesterday I Hannibal Lectered Thomas' face as someone had used polystyrene cement to weld his visage into the smoke box. I presume the same person used the same stuff to add coal to the bunker. If they had used PVA I could have just dumped him in a glass of warm water for an hour or so. I got the gunge off after several hours with some slight damage, the coal rails had to go. The good news is Peters spares have Smokebox doors and Phoenix Precision Paints have the Ramsbottom safety valve /whistle but only post on Friday. ,I am not going to bother with the chimney. The doors were posted today. Shapeways have them as well. The chassis was interesting, something called a super strong pulling power jobbie with TRACTION TYRES and a compensated rear axle. Luckily I have a newer normal chassis bought as a spare a number of years ago. The next job is to run it in without the body followed by an endurance test with normall full load to determine the power requirements of the loco. Talking of coal rails i have updated my Bachmann Hughes Crab from LMS livery to BR black. The replacement body and tender body cost £60 from Bachmann spares-ouch!. No coal rails for the tender though. Did the Crabs ever have railless tenders or for that matter run with a different tender. They would look a lot nicer with a BR B1 tender (not my idea but I agree and rule 1 might apply, the excuse is the famous Scalesgill accident when a black 5 ran into the back of a Crab, destroying its tender and derailing itself. Luckily the crew and tender managed to detach themselves before the 5 went over the edge of the Whin Sill - Oops, totall write off. Thinks - did I use PVA when coaling the LMS version, maybe not as it was second hand.

Please translate 🙂

I am planning to convert a Thomas E2 'inspired' loco to battery power and radio control. Despite it's shortcomings this model has one advantage, you can disassemble the body, removing the cab and boiler top which allows for easier fitting of the batteries and receiver. I don't plan to change the cab windows but may consider lowering the bunker. The loco will end up in a simple black livery. I am happy for rule 1 to apply as it will run on a far North West inspired layout. Questions - 1. The smokebox is 20mm dia, is there any alternative door available 2. Is a shorter funnel available 3. where can i source a replacement safety valve?

Thanks for reminding me. I had a flat warm roof fitted to my garage over 10 years ago and I think it probably needs re-proofing. I can't remember the name of the process used but it involves painting on a water proof resin based paint? I have a Dimplex fan heater plugged into a socket mounted thermostat. The heater is set at 1Kw and the thermostat at 10 degrees. For humidity control I have a dessicating de-humidifier ( they work well at low temeratures) and I empty the reseroir every 2-3 days. I decided on a fan heater as it distributes the warm air around the room rather than it pooling at ceiling level with an oil filled radiator. For additional heating there is a second fan heater which combined with the original one , just turn the thermostat up, soon gets the temperature to a comfortable level. The walls and floor are also insulated and I calculated that a 1Kw heater could maintain a temperature 16 degrees above ambient, The de-humidifier maintains a steady 40% humidity.

A online search reveals PVA is Poly Vinyl Acetate and Glue n Glaze is Ethylene Vinyl Acetate (EVA). Both are adhesives.

In my experience copydex will eventually become translucent light brown rather than clear

Johnsons Klear was discontinued some time ago but there MAY be alternatives such as Pledge Multisurface Floor Polish? There is a lot of discussion online about an alternative