37114

Greatbwork and thanks for taking the time to write up about the FV4 valve, very interesting!

Top job, it is looking very much like a class 26 again, wishing you a merry Xmas! 

Just one question, how will you manage to make the join water tight between the fibreglass dome and the new steal work, is there a particular sealant you use so it is flexible?

1 minute ago, pheaton said:

 

So normally you would rely on the window frame for the exact shape, but 26s dont have the frame anymore, so it would be a case of knowingly building an opening that is too small for the window and then using the glass as a template...but allowing for the panel gap (the gap taken up by the glass and the seal). The problem here comes though in that you cant do this until you know what size you are using, which means you need to adjust the opening for the window to suit, and this because certain sizes are now special order, which mean you need to buy 30m of window seal when you only need 2 or 3m and this has a much inflated cost.

 

The actual positioning we would use No2 as a guide or look at another loco as in our case we have had to cut away the whole section.

 

i knew from my early days of working on 45149 (i only took over 26043 after it blew two traction motors after 10 years ago) that 043 had its dome swapped from a class 33, but i assumed it was the whole dome not just the secondmans side. The reason for this is at some point an impact had seriously damaged the roof dome and it had been patched up, and it was seen as a better prospect to replace the damaged portion, however its a difficult thing to measure accurately even in the best of conditions and as im sure you know life at toddington was extremely basic in the early days.

Thanks for the explanation,  I see the guys in Boness are doing exactly the same window pillar repairs on one of their class 27 as well at the moment. I do indeed recall the early days of Toddington well, I remember being shown round 37215 not long after it arrived in the pouring rain thinking what a tough environment it was to restore a loco in!

That is some work! 

One question if I may, how do you get the windscreen surround the right shape/size/location, is it a case of offering up the window glass every so often to mark around it or do you have a specific template you use please?

I am confused by 1 thing, if the dome is not the one fitted to 26043 when it was in Dutch livery as per the photo which shows it when it was withdrawn, is the dome a preservation era fitment? I used to visit the GWSR a lot when 26043 was being first restored and can never recall seeing the roof dome off it but maybe I missed that.

Great update! Apologies I missed this when you first posted it, that helps, I never realised there was so much too controlling the power. Thanks!

Wow, some serious metal work going on there, great to see a photo of it when new as well.

8 hours ago, pheaton said:

all of you seem to be regular readers :)

 

im keen to not rabbit on about bodywork as it gets a bit repetitive for the readers, so I'm more than up to writing blogs about any particular aspect of 26s....anywhere on the loco just put a request or  question in. mechanical or electrical questions which are 99% applicable to every other loco.

 

@bcnPete @Halvarras @26power @figworthy @Rich Papper @young37215@Gordon A @chris p bacon@Robert Shrives

@JDW@50A55B@stewartingram@41516@Western Star @Mikkel @Tim C@Northroader@37114@Michael Hodgson @figworthy

 

 

 

 

Thanks Pheaton, I follow the blog as a regular visitor to the GWSR diesel galas, really looking forward to seeing 26043 back on the run. I have been fascinated by the amount of collision damage you have had to repair.  Also was interested to see the power unit work, I have rebuilt a few engines but nothing on the scale you are working on.

I would be interested in learning more about the electrical side of things, particularly how things like field diverts work and how you maintain the electrical elements on such an old machine?

Respect to the amount of effort you guys are going to with 26043, will be great to see it back running again. 

This is looking excellent Pete!

Looks a great project Pete, look froward to seeing this develop!

2 hours ago, Tim V said:

 

Don't forget the spillage of diesel out of the filler.

I agree with the J4, The transit in it's day was luxury compared to some of the BMC or Commer vans. Sadly they seem to have fallen behind VW/Mercedes in quality/driver appeal.

On a minor pedantry point the van in the model is a petrol variant, the diesel van had a snout due to a longer Engine. Apparently the diesel MK1 Trasit vans are rare as hen's teeth in the Uk with only a couple of the van variant left.

27 minutes ago, alanbuttler said:

 

Thanks, I'll give that a try.  My airbrush compressor is on the blink at the moment so when I've worked out what is up with it I'll revisit the transit.

 

I've really enjoyed reading about your two layouts, it is such a photogenic subject area.  I found that Bristol archive site particularily inspiring and I'll be creating some new figures based on the guys in those photos.

Look forward to seeing the figures Alan, the guy holding the red flag on Avon Street crossing while the 03 passed over was a classic shot for me and part of the inspiration that made me model the area.

It looks very good, I think all it needs to finish off is toning down with a very fine layer of what is often referred to as "traffic film" basically a fine spray of mud/dust. I use a very diluted mix of thinners/Humbrol 26 as a wash then wiped off while wet. It stays in the crevices but takes the gloss/shine off a vehicle effectively. 

I love the Diarama by the way, I built a 4mm layout inspired by Avon Street a few years ago (Peafore Yard) and am now building a 7mm version (Peasevern Yard) which features the Barton Road crossing gates and features the brick building which stood for years by the Barton Road crossing on the backscene.

My dad owns a sunbeam 90 and I am well acquainted with the rust locations. Key places are bottom of the doors especially, the sills just in front of the wheelarches and under the headlights.

My dad owns a sunbeam 90 and I am well acquainted with the rust locations. Key places are bottom of the doors especially, the sills just in front of the wheelarches and under the headlights.