Jump to content
 

Archers Transfers - Rivets


Bristol_Rich

Recommended Posts

I "think" these may have been mentioned in the past however I just thought I'd reiterate...

 

Rivet Transfers

 

For those of us who enjoy modifying/ improving/ scratchbuild and "wonder what to do about the rivets" as the thought of punching thousands of rivets only to find that 20 are usable turns you off at the thought...

 

I'm currently undertaking a bit of scratch building and thought I'd give Archer transfers a shot. These are effectively accurate resin dots on clear transfer paper which you cut and position just as you would a water slide transfer. The link above is the example I used and would be fine for 4mm/7mm however other examples are available.

 

Although I could only find sources for the transfers in the States, they accept Paypal so payment via UK debit card is possible, if you don't have a cc card.. Ordered Monday 2 Nov arrived from the states on Friday 6th Nov, no customs as small orders are sent in a standard envelope.

 

Well worth a shot if your wondering about your rivets!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I "think" these may have been mentioned in the past however I just thought I'd reiterate...

 

Rivet Transfers

 

For those of us who enjoy modifying/ improving/ scratchbuild and "wonder what to do about the rivets" as the thought of punching thousands of rivets only to find that 20 are usable turns you off at the thought...

 

I'm currently undertaking a bit of scratch building and thought I'd give Archer transfers a shot. These are effectively accurate resin dots on clear transfer paper which you cut and position just as you would a water slide transfer. The link above is the example I used and would be fine for 4mm/7mm however other examples are available.

 

Although I could only find sources for the transfers in the States, they accept Paypal so payment via UK debit card is possible, if you don't have a cc card.. Ordered Monday 2 Nov arrived from the states on Friday 6th Nov, no customs as small orders are sent in a standard envelope.

 

Well worth a shot if your wondering about your rivets!

 

 

Yes,I will be using these on my bridge when I get around to it.Can we have a photo of them in use please Rich.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I found they behaved when I used Klear when positioning them. There is a mild sense of rip-off when they arrive in the post because they aren't cheap but when you start using them they are worth their weight. I've smothered a few things in them now and consider myself a fan.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes,I will be using these on my bridge when I get around to it.Can we have a photo of them in use please Rich.

 

I've not yet got a pic as a finished article, however the attached pic should illustrate their use. They are the small black dots....

 

4084769981_2f5f1ee547.jpg

 

There is a mild sense of rip-off when they arrive in the post because they aren't cheap but when you start using them they are worth their weight.

 

I'd agree looking at them you think..."hmm just a load of black dots" but as you run your finger over them you appreciate the texture. Its much like the feeling of braille.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is where I used them. A mixture of whole runs of rivets straight off the sheet and individually added ones. Not got to painting the model yet even though it looks quite good like this, i.e. I have yet to discover if they start to disappear with paint on top.

 

4086163703_d6b47dbf2a_o.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a point to bear in mind with these transfer rivets, the size is small, and heavy undercoating and painting will tend to cover them. This applies less with airbrushing, so keep in mind the coats of paint should be light, no more than you would do if painting correctly, but we do sometimes over do the paint thickness, and details suffer a bit.

 

I have used these quite often, they work well, but as others say use microsol or equivalent to get them to settle.

 

One point not often made is that refinishing is impossible, stripping paint will remove all and it's back to square one.

 

Stephen.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used these transfers recently on a couple of wagons, and can confirm they are easy to use, but are delicate and require careful handling once applied. They react well to setting solutions and the film is invisible under a coat of paint. The well-known (in military modelling circles) firm of Historex Agents in Dover carry at least some of the range, at about ??11.50 a sheet they are not cheap, but well worth the money.

 

Email: sales@historex-agents.co.uk

 

Telephone Number: 01304 206720

 

Fax Number: 01304 204528

 

Address: Wellington House

157 Snargate Street

Dover, Kent CT17 9BZ

 

Pic of a rectangular tank wagon attached, built recently for "Burntisland 1883"

 

Ray Nolton

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Hello all,

 

I'm doing a turntable in O gauge that will have a lot of rivets on it. So I do have a couple of questions about these transfer rivets.

1] can you apply them directly to bare metal, or do you have to have a primer on it first?

2] can you over paint them with an acid based primer if they are on the base metal?

 

Thanks for any help,

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you can and I find (mainly on plastic) that primer after transfers is the best way to go. It hides the carrier film better. Priming after putting them on is recommended as it helps stop them falling off.

 

Acid based primer - well, they're resin. I'd test that one first.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all,

 

well I ordered my Archer's rivets, about five days from the U.S.A. (some of the British suppliers should take note!). The sheets are not that big (the size is given on their site) but they look to have a lot on them. The order was over $50 so no P&P (some thing else for the British suppliers to think about?).

I want to have a play with them but am undecided about before the primer or after it? The top coat will be cellulose paint, but there are some bits that I can try on, on the outside of the sheet.

post-8920-0-82326800-1345113475_thumb.jpg

 

All will be shown in my build thread, in time.

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ozzy, I put mine on over satin car paint, it's quite shiny for satin though. You don't have to worry about silvering as you will be overpainting them anyway ;)

 

You should be okay to put them straight onto the metal.

 

The thing is I use an acid etch primer, I have done for all my work for a good number of years now, so that may attack the transfer film?

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...