Cobalt point motors

[Re6/6]

We are fettling Matford in readyness for the Three Spires Railex (Truro) show next month and have had some point motor problems due to the rough journey to & from Scaleforum last year. Damage was done to some of the Hoffmann motors and we have replaced one of them with a 'Cobalt' that I bought to play with last year. I'm really impressed with slow and realistic action. They do seem to be the 'bees knees'. Anybody out there had any experience of them as I'm now contemplating using them for my next project as an alternative to Tortoises?

Cobalts do score on the size front.

[Danemouth]

Just starting to install them on "Danemouth" - the track is already laid so it's a little bit awkward as their template is more suited to drilling the holes before you permanently fix the track - bought a box of 12 and found one dud so far and powered another 6.

 

I've also tried one of their decoders - works well.

 

It's worth downloading the manuals for both the motors and decoders.

 

Will let you know how I get on,

 

Dave

[Kris]

I use both Cobalt and Tortoise on Avonwick and have had no problems with either. I find the tortoise ones easier to mount as you can move the pin manually when unpowered.

[corax67]

I have one on my shunting puzzle fiddle yard (a kind gift) and it is nice but not really enough of a improvement over the Tortoise to cause me to change from my trusty Tortoise motors.

 

Like Kris I find it useful to be able to move the fulcrum by hand when unpowered if necessary but both are equally quiet and smooth so you should find them perfectly suitable for your next project.

[Kenton]

bought a box of 12 and found one dud so far

Either unfortunate, or a rather worrying failure rate. Any idea of the cause of the failure (switch or dead motor or loose lead) ? Was it replaced without question?

[Danemouth]

Either unfortunate, or a rather worrying failure rate. Any idea of the cause of the failure (switch or dead motor or loose lead) ? Was it replaced without question?

 

It seems stuck at one end - did work just once but stopped. I have a box of 12 and aim to have them installed in the next fortnight. I will then take it up with John at Bromsgrove but don't anticipate any problems

 

Dave

[hoovernut]

I have installed 8 on my current project and have had two failiures but they were replaced without question. Performance wise i cannot fault them but i have found that they can be a little noisy but i have been told via email from down under that its to do witht the point not being exactly center.

[Jol Wilkinson]

I tried out a Tortoise and a Cobalt, and subsequently have installed another eleven Cobalts. I found the only advantage of the Tortoise is that it can be "hand driven". The terminal block on the Cobalt make it easier to install (and put right wiring errors). The smaller size was a benefit too, although the baseboards have plenty of depth.

 

I had a problem with one Cobalt. This was identified by Richard at DCC Concepts as an overlarge moulding pip that kept the two parts of the case slightly too far apart (this applied to one batch only). Richard advised how to fix it (easily done) so I didn't need return it. One of the other benefits of the Cobalt is that you can take them apart for overhaul/repair.

 

I found the noise level varies, some being totally silent. The noisest is about the same as the Tortoise I have. They are quieter on lower voltages and I have found 9 - 10 volts to be an ideal compromise.

 

I hope this helps,

 

Jol

[gwrman]

Hi, not being one to publise another forum but I found this reply from Richard Johnson of DCC Concepts Faulty Cobalt Maker Reply.

 

Nigel B)

[Jol Wilkinson]

I tried out a Tortoise and a Cobalt, and subsequently have installed another eleven Cobalts. The only advantage of the Tortoise is that it can be "hand driven". The terminal block on the Cobalt make it easier to install (and put right wiring errors). The smaller size was a benefit too, although the baseboards have plenty of depth.

 

I had a problem with one Cobalt. This was identified by Richard at DCC Concepts as an overlarge moulding pip that kept the two parts of the case slightly too far apart (this applied to one batch only). Richard advised how to fix it (easily done) so I didn't need return it. One of the other benefits of the Cobalt is that you can take them apart for overhaul/repair.

 

I found the noise level varies, some being totally silent. The noisest is about the same as the Tortoise I have. They are quieter on lower voltages and I have found 9 - 10 volts to be an ideal compromise.

 

I hope this helps,

 

Jol

[Mike Friedman]

I decided to try one of the DCC Concepts point decoders and Cobalt point motor, so ordered the two from Bromsgrove Models.

 

I first connected the decoder to the Cobalt without it being attached to any point work to test how the combo would work and to programme its’ address. I then attached the decoder to my accessory control bus (all my static Lenz point decoders and LDT block detection and signal decoders are controlled from a separate district connected to a Lenz LV101).

 

I moved the micro switch on the decoder to the programming position and fired the desired point number, then powered down, moved the micro switch to the operating position, powered up again and fired the point number I had supposedly programmed, nothing happened except the decoder got very hot to the point of starting to smell.

 

I powered down, disconnected both decoder and Cobalt and called Bromsgrove Models, John suggested testing the Cobalt point motor on its’ own. This I did with the 12v regulated DC supply I use for my Sprog, the motor appeared to work OK although it did give two or three loud clicks before stalling at the end of one direction of travel.

 

I sent the decoder back to Bromsgrove who replaced it with another. On testing the replacement decoder it behaved exactly like the first so I once again contacted Bromsgrove and described the component that appeared to be over heating, John, from Bromsgrove, then remembered he had been told by DCC Concepts that some of the decoders had had an extra component inserted by mistake and advised me to simply snip the component off the circuit board.

 

After the decoder received “the snip†I repeated the programming and running as per before and this time it worked perfectly although the Cobalt motor still gave two or three clicks before stalling properly in one direction.

 

I decided to go ahead with the installation as the clicking might be normal behaviour, so removed the Peco solenoid and PL15 microswitch as well as the spring on the point (this installation is on an existing painted and ballasted point), eventually got the cobalt centred and fixed, this can be quite awkward on an existing installation.

 

With all in place I fired the point and the Cobalt duly moved the blades, however when fired again to move the blades back on reaching the end of travel the Cobalt kept on running with the gears clicking and no sign of stopping.

 

I disconnected the Cobalt from the track as I feared I might not have had the motor centred, but on firing it again the same continuous clicking happened at the end of one direction of travel.

 

So three weekends later I have a non working point, a home modified decoder (that now works properly) and am awaiting a replacement Cobalt from John at Bromsgrove.

 

Ever the optimist I am hoping the new Cobalt will arrive in time to be installed next weekend and I’ll have a working slow action point.

 

Will I use a Cobalt again? Not too sure.

[Jol Wilkinson]

Hi Mike,

 

that's the same problem I had with one of the Cobalts. The easy fix is to reduce the voltage supplied to the Cobalt (I now operate them on 9 - 10 volts).

 

The problem is apparently caused by an excess bit of moulding pip on the pillars inside the casing. The pips hold the case halves slightly too far apart and let the gears slip at the end of their travel. Giving the casing a squeeze stopped it and confirmed the cause. On DCC Concepts advice I dismantled the unit, scraped off the circular pip and reassemble the Cobalt. All was then well.

 

Jol

[Kenton]

This, to my mind, is a disappointment. I know it is early days, for the Cobalt and some of us can remember when the Tortoise didn't have the cast iron reputation that it now has, but entering a mature market place where the Tortoise is the world leader means they have to get it right. User mods to the unit are not the way to go even if they are simple to do. Reliability has to be top of the list no matter what and at this stage perhaps the retailers need to QA test every unit before it leaves their premises?

[melmerby]

For all:

How long are the operating wires on Cobalt and Tortoise?

Will they both reliably operate a point through about 28mm of baseboard & underlay etc?

 

I've found that Seep motors have too much slop to be much use at about this depth and of the two TT300s I tried elsewhere, one has failed after just over a year (doesn't cut-off at end of travel).

 

Cheers

Keith

[N Gauge David]

I have been very happy with the dozen or so Cobalt point motors I have installed on my n gauge layout. However, I do hear an annoying buzzing coming from the AD1 and AD4 DCC stationery decoders. Reading this thread, I am wondering if I am delivering too high a voltage, so I should try and reduce it. I run them from an ECoS 50200 - so I wonder how easy it is to reduce the voltage. From memory there is a dial to turn to adjust the voltage, but I don't think it drops below 14V.

Any other advice or ideas would be welcome.

Thanks

[brossard]

For all:

How long are the operating wires on Cobalt and Tortoise?

Will they both reliably operate a point through about 28mm of baseboard & underlay etc?

 

I've found that Seep motors have too much slop to be much use at about this depth and of the two TT300s I tried elsewhere, one has failed after just over a year (doesn't cut-off at end of travel).

 

Cheers

Keith

 

28mm seems pretty deep to me but the Tortoise should work. My advice is to replace the 0.020" wire with 0.032" steel wire. You can make the operating wire as long as you want in that case. The 0.020" wire is just too flimsy and will bend rather than actually move the tie bar.

 

I haven't actually installed my Cobalts (and they're at the clubhouse so I can't check) but I know they come with pre-bent 0.032" wire.

 

John

[craigwelsh]

For all:

How long are the operating wires on Cobalt and Tortoise?

Will they both reliably operate a point through about 28mm of baseboard & underlay etc?

 

Cheers

Keith

Tortoise wouldn't have an issue and im sure Cobalt would be fine too. You generally have to replace the operating wire Tortoise supply anyway as its rather thin.

[Kenton]

One small word of caution with the Tortoise - for them to operate correctly they do require correct adjustment of the fulcrum position. This is frequently ignored by many whoh think it makes no difference - parially true as the motor will still operate. However, incorrect fulcrum adjustment is one of the most common sources of issues with the Tortoise and can result in excessive noise as the motor "bounces" on the stop.

 

With a larger baseboard thickness you may need a larger hole to avoid creating an artificial fulcrum on the baseboard.

 

I'd certainly echo the change of actuating wire thickness.

 

[thought]

I wonder if the fulcrum issue is the same on Cobalts?

[craigwelsh]

[thought]

I wonder if the fulcrum issue is the same on Cobalts?

I wouldn't call it an issue more a function of the way these machines work. Yes the Cobalt does have the same adjustable slider and needs it to be able to cope with different baseboard thicknesses and track gauges. You don't want to put too much stress on hand build 2mm track say but would want more movement for 4mm throws (probably, its just an example)..