uglykidjoe Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Can't believe that it was 12 years ago that my old layout Chapel Street appeared in BRM. Well I have started its replacement imaginatively called "New Chapel Street" Here are some shots of the main board - 6 feet by 18 inches - light enough to lift with one hand - just needs two to steady it. It has a insulation foam top, and a 6mm ply frame. The back scene is hard board. I will cut out the holes once the track has been layed. The track plan is a copy of one of Hugh Flynn's I just happened to have exactly the correct number of handed points already built. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Great looking boards there and they certainly look light. I can remember this plan from the old forum, a really nice one too, big fan of Hugh's work after how deeping lane turned out from one of his plans. Are you going to scratch build the track n buildings etc?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Great looking boards there and they certainly look light. I can remember this plan from the old forum, a really nice one too, big fan of Hugh's work after how deeping lane turned out from one of his plans. Are you going to scratch build the track n buildings etc?? Thanks for the kind words Mixture of scratch built and kits. It wont be based on a china clay, but general freight. I have some nice Kibri mill type buildings for the background. Bullhead track C&L (with a bit of SMP) C&L points. Flat bottom points copperclad with Peco fittings cut in half and added later. Plain FB Exactoscale fast track. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Sounds good Steve, I'll be following with interest as I have started a similar sized project with c&l track n points so be good to see we're you go with it and hope to pick some tips up on the way as its my first journey into hand built track. If your not doing the pure china clay n just freight u could pop a half platform pop from under the bridge to the left, could give a small variety from freight with the odd dmu. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Hi Neil I have got the Heljan Country Station Kit, so will be tucking that in the right hand side with part of a carpark above and steps down to the platform. Hopefully this will enable me to avoid a bridge on the right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 sounds even better, nice one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Sorry I should have called the station kit "Tackley Halt" I have got a couple to increase the length. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/52369-Heljan-tackley-halt-station-kit-00gauge/ Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Looking forward to watching this develop. I like the look of the baseboard, how deep are the plywood sides and how did you get the curve in the back scene? Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 *I will have to go out to the garage to measure the sides, but suffice to say they clear Blue Point motors. I curved the hardboard by gluing in stages to the glued and screwed uprights, and because it is under tention, prevents the board from being twisted. The backscene is 9" tall to match the ID backscenes I have. Steve *I will add this on my next update. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Looking forward to watching this develop. I like the look of the baseboard, how deep are the plywood sides and how did you get the curve in the back scene? Steve. The sides are 4" / 100mm deep. I am currently putting in the foam some wooden blocks to mount the Blue Point point controls on. The major drawback I have found is mounting items below the board. Once the weather is better I will try and get a picture uploaded to explain how I am doing it. I must admit I did not take into account where the linkage goes, I should have cut out the hole first in the foam. Here you can see that the linkage is almost halfway up the sides (not my pictures) Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Only managed to get two points and motors done/laid over the weekend, however I am quite pleased how they have turned out. I had to put a pieces of tubing over the actual wire supplied with the motors as they were too springy to move the tie bar on the flat bottom points. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D802 FORMIDABLE Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Looks like she's going to be a cracking little layout mate. looking forward to this one developing Cheers Anthony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Here are a couple of snaps ( I say snaps because they're very very poor quality) of the first turnouts in place. The black round the point is permanent marker pen on top of a strip of paper so it does not show through the ballast. The paper covers hole for the point motor and allows for a very small slot. The track is soldered to brass screws as it leaves the main board One of the Blue Point 'motor' in place Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Well it's just stopped raining so I have been able to take the board outside to get some slightly better pictures. I could not resist adding some cosmetic chairs to see how it would look. The paper will be 'painted' with a marker pen. Here it helps cover a couple of gaps was well as the hole for the motor. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Really lookin smart so far mate, how will the motors be operated?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thanks, I will be using the Blue Point control kit - but with the tube coming straight out to the rear. I am also thinking of using bicycle spokes to the front with choc blocks so that I can remove them for exhibitions ie when not operating from the front at home Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 The cork will be cut back to the left of the track in this view. It is only secured just beyond the track, and will form a shoulder for the ballast once all the other track is completed. The track is secured with double sided tape and flooded with cheap super glue so that it can be moved if required. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 I have, at last, got the 4 turnouts down. As a quick break from cutting rail and wiring I have placed some of the building on the layout before the final bits of plain track go down. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 Nothing much to report except I have been removing the webbing from between the bullhead rail sections sleepers. This not only helps give the open look of bullhead rail, but also helps ballasting. Very tedious, but worth it in my opinion. Some suggest that the webbing is removed before the track is put down, I prefer to do it afterwards as the sleepers don't move around so much. You just need a very sharp scapel blade. Hopefully get some more pictures done soon. Flatbottom track seems to be ballasted more deeply so I don't need to do the the FB sections. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 I have finished all the wiring. Not had much time over the last few weeks, but managed to a bit of ballasting today. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 I have made some more progress over the last couple of days. The ballast on the flat bottom track has been done with Klear/IPA. The orange trucking is pasta! Sorry about the very poor quality pictures - very little in the way of natural light today. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 One more.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 Just been out this morning to the garage and the very dark bits of ballast have gone back to a nice dirty brown now they have dried out. It is the first time that I have used the Klear/IPA method, the drying time seems a little longer but there is less disruption of the ballast when dribbled on. The greenery does look better, indeed all the colours do in natural light. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Flynn Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Looking good keep up the good work Hugh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglykidjoe Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 I was so ashamed of the latest pictures and as there was a little more sunlight I have taken some more which hopefully give a better idea of progress. Hopefully I am getting there, quite pleased that the layout still doesn't look too cramped. Thanks ever so much Hugh & thanks for doing the plan in the firts place Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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