RMweb Premium newbryford Posted April 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2014 Newbryford Mechanics have never been my thing. Kal looks after that side of things...I had been going to say the black thing looks like a coiled springs....what is that bit anyway? ? ? The black bits are the cylinders - the fins around them are for air cooling. Gear changing without a clutch cable is becoming a lost art - I do it in front of my pupils and they think it's black magic! Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcredfer Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 A few years Double-de-Clutching an all Crash Box helps ...... Modern Boxes really make changing without the Clutch much easier too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) A few years Double-de-Clutching an all Crash Box helps ...... Modern Boxes really make changing without the Clutch much easier too. Especially true when you drive an automatic Edited April 8, 2014 by Jaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 OK there is some serious quess work here. 1. the front of the building has ended up 15cm wide (4mm per foot) because of the relationship of the door and the windows. 15cm=150mm=150div4mm=37foot give or take. This would give you a main hall of say 6ft and 2 inner walls unto 7ft, with 30ft minus two outer walls say 28ft so about 14ft rooms either side of the main doorway. 2. from the birds eye. There is a relationship between the annexe A and the main house B of A2/B3 therefore if the main house is 150mm the annexe is 105mm give or take. 3. Also from the birds eye view the width of the main house B is basically the same as the length of the annexe A 105mm 4. Also from the birds eye view the annexe is set back as far as the main house roof ridge, and is just slightly wider than the edge of the main house. So in effect half the main house width (and annexe length) and a smidgeon. half 105mm = 52.5mmand a smidgeon 55/60mm 5. The height of the annexe is around half way mark on the updaters windows. N.B. The windows were NOT really the correct shape and this messes slightly with the results (next time IF I want more accurate it's scratch build) And the ridge can be measured and worked out from google maps. (I'll go do that later.) BUT I have a number of measurements to go with. f the picture that was courtesy of mkwolf1877 http://www.rmweb.co....26#entry1176397 google maps http://heartbeat.wikia.com AND UNLESS ANYONE can see the following picture and advise me differently I think the left window seem more or less centrally against the annexe door. BUT the right hand window is tight against the door and has an unequal larger gap on the right. PERHAPS with those smaller window pains it was the lock up room. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 A quick paint... rmweb1412policehouse10 poke the door in place for reference (as it is glue at the back...it stops the sheets sitting flat so won't be fixed until much later. rmweb1413policehouse11 a view with the stones from the side rmweb1414policehouse12 If anyone has any tips please feel free to pop them up....I'll probably need all the help I can get... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I have also been looking at the roof...and have glued two sheets together. Which is actually annoying. On test several sheets (I bought a new pack for spares) The tiles do not align very well so you have to shave the sheets at an angle. Which then makes joining them in a straight-line not so easy. But job done, and I addd some Tamiya smoke on the tiles. This represent colour, gives the appearance of the roof being somewhat damp/wet and starts to hide the rather nasty join. Two sheets are JUST longer than my building, BUT I need an over hang for the main building room, and have to hope I have enough to do a flat roof on the annexe (I decided against the earlier pantiles I mentioned) When I do the roof cut I will find out if the two sheets are enough OR f I need to do another sheet. As I have one spare now it is not much trouble either way. But cost effect IF I can get the lot out of the two sheets. Only time will tell rmweb141policehouse14 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted April 8, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2014 A quick paint... rmweb1412policehouse10 poke the door in place for reference (as it is glue at the back...it stops the sheets sitting flat so won't be fixed until much later. rmweb1413policehouse11 a view with the stones from the side rmweb1414policehouse12 If anyone has any tips please feel free to pop them up....I'll probably need all the help I can get... Jaz, you're making a cracking job, and I hate to mention this... but the door doesn't seem to have a frame at the moment? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 acg_mr thank you for replying Your right. I had to widen the door. for that reason, because it was apparent that technically you would never get your hand to push the door open. And the door had no frame at the top so I cut it a bit taller. I need to make a piece and paint it blue...rmweb1414policehouse12 shows the edge of the stone AND the gap. The door is wide enough has it is built so I assume to be stuck behind the brick sheet. rmweb1418policehouse16 rmweb1419polivehouse17 You can see I removed the door width initially. rmweb1422policehouse20 then widened it a smidgeon rmweb1423policehouse21 Plus the bottom of the door appears to be floating but this is because the ground rises, two steps will need to be added to the annexe, and 4 to the main building. I'm so glad someone is paying attention Any pointers helps me. Because the thing I am nervous of is not noticing the obvious. So when pointers cover ground I am aware of I can think okay good I'm on the right track.. And if pointers point out something I missed then hopefully I can save it. Plus as your are experienced modeller I really value your opinion. You can answer me one question though. I am considering making the main building and a butting the annexe so the wall that they share helps make it stronger. I see no value in making two bikes and setting side by side. As the finished sheets won't sit flat against each other. Does that make sense? As the main building goes around the corner and goes back to the annexe anyway , and the main building is taller than the annexe it seems the main building takes precedence and I attach the annexe. This should also save me a sliver on the roof.And at the moment a sliver might be important. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sasquatch Posted April 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2014 This is going to be superb! The annex roof probably slopes the rear, that would explain the tall wall above the door and windows. The model might look better with a slope even if the prototype is flat! If the back wall is guess work, may I suggest an easy solution of two filled in garage doors on the annex. Add two long lintels and 4 saw cuts suggesting the joins between the original stone work and the new, then paint the stones to reflect this. I rarely model the backs of building unless they are positioned side on! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sasquatch Posted April 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2014 Make the butt ends from foam board or something. Attach with super glue! add stone work to the visible bits after. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I will go for the sloped ...water runneth off the roof affair. And I like the idea of the back view. I tend to move buildings around so I probably need a back view regardless. But the will be sideways on so the back will actually be looked at. I was wondering if an outside toilet might be appropriate as well .....I have a large female black doberman bugging me for a cuddle.....cheeky thing is barking at me!!!!!! modelling will need to stop for a few minutes..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 The main house has a similar door issue rmweb1417policehouse15 rmweb1420policehouse18 Here I need the door frame, BUT also the small window above. rmweb1421policehouse19 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornbyandbf3fan Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I'm liking the doors, is it bits of plasticard to create the 3D effect? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 No it's straight out of the Will Kit packet I just added some paint. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Todd Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 No it's straight out of the Will Kit packet I just added some paint. .....What ?.......buying unpainted stuff now...?............. .............................................( ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweven Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I think your idea of butting the annex up to the main building will be the easiest approach (exactly what I have done with the two parts of my current station building) - you could just fill any gaps where the stone work doesn't join smoothly with model filler or with wall filler (plaster) and paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted April 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2014 Don't forget lintels and sills above and below the windows and doors, the structure (in real life) wouldn't stay a structure for long without them 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted April 8, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2014 Jaz, Looking good, keep going. Butting the annexe against the main wall is a good idea but you might also want to attach at the bottom, or just under the roof, or both, a triangular shaped piece of thick plastic with a 90 degree corner so that you can glue it to the inside of both walls to add extra strength. You could also instead add a bracing bar across the gap where the annexe meets the house, the width of the annexe which again would keep width, add strength and you could use it as an extra to glue it to the house. Lintels. You may need to file down above the windows and add a strip of plastkard. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Sandside thanks for the pointer. Luckily the kit refers to them. So I just need to cut them wider than the windows, and possible sand / file the walls a little so they sit nicely in place. I just got bored and needed a break and could not get the energy to do the platform....so I sat down and watched a chick flick....and gave the dog her throat rub.....which is what she was inching after. Am now considering putting in another hour or so. The instructions also point out the angle at the top of the wall for the roof to sit down flat....that was useful because I had been thinking how do I stop he roof slipping.....I pick them up and read them occasionally because trying to read them all at once makes my eyes glaze over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) Jaz, Looking good, keep going. Butting the annexe against the main wall is a good idea but you might also want to attach at the bottom, or just under the roof, or both, a triangular shaped piece of thick plastic with a 90 degree corner so that you can glue it to the inside of both walls to add extra strength. You could also instead add a bracing bar across the gap where the annexe meets the house, the width of the annexe which again would keep width, add strength and you could use it as an extra to glue it to the house. Lintels. You may need to file down above the windows and add a strip of plastkard. The kit adds small white bits to fix the walls inside at the corners. ( and I think support the ceiling / floor between the ground and first floor) But that sounds a very good idea. As you mention it I think I have seen them around...I just hadn't considered them. Good idea thank you. Your right over the lintels, I think I knew that from looking carefully at some of Sasquatch's pictures. edit= Sasquatch originally recommended the kit as he is a regular user of the kits and Wills products. He noticed the potential for the kit to be adjusted for the police house and at an early stage helped me work out how best to adjust the idea. He has earned major brownie points in my little note book LOL. Edited April 8, 2014 by Jaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted April 8, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) Jaz, I also forgot to say and you may have already done it and it may be in the instructions, firstly you need to mitre the edges of the walls so they meet at the corner and not butt up to each other, and when you stick two pieces together end to end use a very thin piece of plastic behind them. It can be wide if you want. This will stick to the pieces you are joining and you will not have to rely on the butt ends having enough glue on them. If the plastic joiner is thin it will not stop the two pieces bending very much so if you can and want too you could use a thicker piece. The end wall of my cottage on my thread is put together like that. Edited April 8, 2014 by ChrisN Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted April 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2014 Especially true when you drive an automatic That's called cheating! Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 ChrisN thank you The instructions offer up the 45degree join, but it mentions you can do a 90degree as long as you are up for carving the stones or bricks.....I'll check your cottage out as well. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 That's called cheating! Cheers, Mick Hey first one was a Ford Scorpion....great car.....front AND back electric seats.And a massive boot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted April 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2014 Hey first one was a Ford Scorpion....great car.....front AND back electric seats.And a massive boot. Ah - the car that looked like a wide mouth frog! (Scorpio? Just a posh Granada!) Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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