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Dave's Workbench- Porthole Coach


drgj
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 I flush glazed the front windscreens on this class 47 by removing the glazing and simply cutting the parts that form the windscreens out. I then fixed them flush to the outer body with varnish. I left the side windows as they are.

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Edited by drgj
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Answers in the OP. "By removing the glazing and simply cutting the parts that form the windscreens out" from that. He used the original glazing but cut it away from the retaining plastic.

 

Rob

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  • 7 months later...

This is a Lima CCT I detailed. I ended up rebuilding the main chassis from scratch out of plasticard with brass steps. I saved the brake cylinders and battery boxes from the original Lima model. The springs, axleguards and brake shoes are ABS  (very nice castings) and the wheels 14mm. I added nem couplings to this one so I could run it with my other ready to run stuff. I sealed the roof to the body and added a new rainstrip.  I thinned the body sides to give a near brass sides look. I  used comet BR ridged dome ventilators on the roof which may not be correct. Finished with an airbrush with weathering but marred by curling transfers!  I am doing another one at the moment but in a different way and I will post some pictures at some time.

 

 

Edited by drgj
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I have recently inherited some of these CCT's from my father which I plan on doing the same thing as you so will watch this thread with interest, looks great so far!

How did you obtain the parts from ABS? Do they have a website or anything? Do you know if they attend any shows such as warley coming up?

With mine I had planned on getting some flush glazing, I think shawplan do some, and possibly fit some sprung w irons, if I could figure out which type to use, and fit new axle guards/springs. Maybe also fit some cast buffers, again if I knew which ones to get!

 

And of course a repaint into BR blue.

 

Keep up the good work!

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Very nice. I've had one of these on the go for a while and you have inspired me to dig it out and get it finished. I've already done the roof details and fitted SEF Flushglaze with home made grilles inside. Lazerglaze hadn't been invented when I started it! 

 

The new chassis on mine is based on Parkside bits from their LNER CCT (floor and solebar units) with most of the fittings cut from the Lima chassis and reused. I still have to do the brake gear but have just had a look through my 'leftovers' box and seem to have almost everything I need.

 

The fun bit will be reinstating the the solebar gussets, which is probably why I put it away in the first place!

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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I don't really know why I do this as they all look the same when they are racing round my track! Here is what I have done for the next one. I retained the Lima chassis but cut away the brake shoes. I made up these contraptions with scrap brass, inside bearings, comet brake shoes and solder. Please ignore the rusty axle! They fit over the central raised area that run down the centre of the chassis underneath. I may solder some wire between each pair of brake shoes. Because the original wheel bearing points are set low in the axle boxes the van sits with the buffers at the right height  and  the axles in about the right position behind the axle boxes with 14mm wheels and these things.

 

I have sold the maroon one at the start of the thread but I  keep pics of some of my creations. There are plenty I have sold that I wish I had kept. 

Dave

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Edited by drgj
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I like this, nice work on the Lima van. I converted one to P4 a couple of years ago, and revamped the body, with flush glazing (home-made from Cobex) etc. There were some photos on an earlier version of the forum. I also did a similar job on an OO one, although for that used the SE Finecast flush glazing, as the Laserglaze product wasn't available at the time and I didn't fancy cutting out a load of Cobex again (might replace with Laserglaze in due course).

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  • 8 months later...

I finally finished this CCT. It was made up from a badly damaged Tarton Arrow Lima model plus some old Maygib 14mm wheels mounted on the brass inside bearing / brake block things I made up. These you can see earlier in this thread. I cut out some flush glazing from some old plastic packaging and fitted this after removing the raised edge around the window apertures and painting, etc .I  just cut the old brake blocks off   (very carefullybecause the plastic is brittle all over this model) before fitting my made up parts. The couplings I made up and they swivel like the originals but are smaller. The humbrol enamel I weathered it with seems to rub off a bit easily compared with Railmatch enamel I used before. The blue is acrylic Railmatch Rail Blue. The model actually looks better in the flesh!

 

Those brass inside bearing contraptions were a pain to make. If I were to do another one I would just drill through the axle boxes from the outside and fit brass bearings. The little pip on the axle box is the right place for 14mm wheels if you want the buffers at the right height. It would be easy enough  then to fill in the holes on the outside and replace the detail or just use some other axle boxes.

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A funny thing happened to this blue cct. I was looking at it and thought a little more weathering just with a little matt varnish might just finish it nicely. Famous last words! My airbrush went splattery and ruined it! Also the varnish dried frosty and white. I have had to strip it and start again. It took ages to apply those individual pressfix numbers! I had previously applied some railmatch satin varnish and that was fine. The matt stuff was a different make. The search for perfection can be destructive. Beware!

 

dave

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Heartbreaking.  I've been trying to do a Dapol Stove R and had much the same issue.  I finally gave up on it and did a Comet body for it.  I always get anxious at the painting stage because it doesn't take much to ruin weeks of work.

 

John

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Dave, sorry to hear about the livery failure :( just wanted to say thanks for the tip with drilling through to fit 14mm wheels, very useful to know. I could do with one to act as tail traffic for a DMU, you've shown how good it can be. Cheers!

Edited by Ramblin Rich
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