ENIGMA SIDINGS

[CourthsVeil]

Hi fellow modellers !

 

I thought I would share my latest adventure with you  .

 

It is a “microsaver” called ENIGMA SIDINGS. The idea is “borrowed” from Shortliner, a.k.a. the “Dean of Density”. It was published in Carl’s Scrapbook, page 85a, May 2009.

Jack had condensed the well known timesaver scheme first to 4’4” by 1’. Thereafter he boiled it down to incredible 38” by 12” (here his plans)! Both intended for US-stock, i.e. H0, 1:87 or 3.5mm/ft.
 

By chance I had a piece of foamboard (you know, that pink stuff, also called “styro­dur”, in my case 3cm thick), measuring 95cm by 30cm – nearly exactly what Jack had set for the Microsaver. Quite nice an opportunity to try something else than my previous layouts! (These are in a more inglenookish mode.)

 

The following image is Jack’s 4’4”-proposal, amended by me to fit onto my foamboard (pink shaded areas to be cut away  ). I also inverted it and turned it a few degrees…

 

 

 

I expect to enjoy building this layout, to enjoy leisure time operating it – not just alone, but also with our grandson (just four years old), and to gain more expertise. A layout with barely more than 3 sqft (plus being incre­dibly lightweight, due to its foamboard base) could easily be put on the dining table to “work” for a limited time (and then quickly stored away) – fitting well to entertain a train-mad little boy (and his granddad  +   ).

 

It is by no means intended to be prototypical, me not being a purist  8) . I will use mainly German, perhaps sometimes also U.S. rolling stock (max. 40ft wagons). Control will be plain DC, points by rod-in-trough, electrofrogged.

 

The first steps have been made some time ago: some H0 track bodged together, just to prove that it will be workable. The Better Half had no objections to the project as a whole, but she found the original colour QUITE UGLY. So the baseboard got a generous splash of green primer (PVA + acryl colour):

 

 

 

In the meantime I’m a bit further – having proofed operations for a while and started scenery (a row of industrial buildings plus two bridges as indicated by Jack) – I may come back with a progress report.

 

Watch this space – more to follow soon – comments and suggestions are welcome!
 

  Armin

 

[Jerry1975]

Looks interesting.

Looking forward to seeing more.

[cklammer]

Moin, Armin,

 

 This is looking very nice. It will be very sutable for your existing stock, I believe.

 

 But you really do not have much space for scenery and your industries left - I am looking forward on how you are going to deal with that challenge.

 

Best Regards,

Christian

 

Edited because of missing signature

[CourthsVeil]

… you really do not have much space for scenery and your industries left - I am looking forward on how you are going to deal with that challenge.

 

Hi Jerry and Christian,

thanks for your interest!

 

Christian, no problem with industry etc., these will be just a few LOW relief buildings along the rear rim. Apart from the two bridges nothing else.

 

 

 

Back to the actual build:

 

What makes Jack’s track plan distinct from others is that no less than three points are replaced by sector plates (well: the word “plate” does suggest something larger – in fact here it is more a slim ruler than a plate). It is well known that these things act like points but are much shorter, especially when one sector ‘plate’ replaces more than one point.

 

As usual, I diverted from my source (Shortliner’s proposal): I wanted to put all onto the 95cm board, but keeping the nice curves etc. of his 4’4” Minisaver. How that? Very simple: put each sector’s pivot at the very end of the now shorter board AND let it overhang. (Not my idea – to be found in several sources…) Here a very early mock up on the still unprimed foamboard:

 

 

 

Checking how the left sector thingy might be attached:

 

 

 

The layout will be moved quite often (working table to dining to table in patio… and reverse…). The foamboard stuff being rather vulnerable I gave them edges a simple protection: a piece stripwood plus a hefty splash of PVA on each end:

 

 

 

Progress has been rather slow, but these days it’s speeding up. I will report soon about the sector thingies and points.

 

Would like to see your reactions, comments, suggestions etc.

 

  Armin

[switcher 1]

I think the overhang needs to be equal or less than the supported part of your sector plate or it may 'lift' where it adjoins the trackwork.

(I'd also make them removable to save damaging them.)

[Saddletank]

A very snug fitting swivel mechanism should stop it cantilevering off the track join by virtue of not having any lateral play in the hinge. What sprang to mind straightaway was using a male and female set of patternmakers dowels, the brass ones used for baseboard alignment, in the vertical - this would give a relatively smooth swing and should have very little wiggle room. It also allows the fiddle sticks to be easily removed for storage, or even for swapping them between the ends if necessary.

[CourthsVeil]

I think the overhang needs to be equal or less than the supported part of your sector plate or it may 'lift' where it adjoins the trackwork.

(I'd also make them removable to save damaging them.)

 

fatmac: yes, of course! Well, it’s just a mock up with what I had on hand… And not removable but can be turned into a safe posítion.

 

 

A very snug fitting swivel mechanism should stop it cantilevering off the track join by virtue of not having any lateral play in the hinge. What sprang to mind straightaway was using a male and female set of patternmakers dowels, the brass ones used for baseboard alignment, in the vertical - this would give a relatively smooth swing and should have very little wiggle room. It also allows the fiddle sticks to be easily removed for storage, or even for swapping them between the ends if necessary.

 

saddletank: good idea the patternmakers dowels, but see the following, please…

 

And thank you for your interest and comments!

 

 

 

Now, time for an update!

 

Before attaching the above mentioned stripwood cushions I made the pivots for the sector thingies.

First for each I got a ply piece 1.5 x x1.5cm, 3cm long (i.e. the thickness of the foamboard), drilled lengthwise a 4.5mm hole, widened it at one end to accept a T-nut and had this (lower end with T-nut visible in mirror):

 

 

 

At the position secured by the above sector mock up I cut out respective rebates

 

 

 

Here it is glued into its place – already with 4mm bolt:

 

 

 

Next a piece of standard track kept by the bolt – no possibility of cantilevering, just horizontal swivelling:

 

 

 

An alignment check – overhang no more than 9cm (i.e. one third of track length)

 

 

 

As you can see, I do not use the conventional sector plate. I just use standard track without any support. Believe me or not – it works !

 

Hope you like – then watch! Again your comments and encouragements are welcome.

  Armin

 

 

edit: image replaced

[switcher 1]

That is a very neat solution, I will have to remember your way of doing it. :thumbs_up:

[gjhimages]

Armin

 

this is a great idea and will answer a problem i have been looking at for several weeks , how to move engine from one track to another on a small shelf layout

one question

How do you keep electrical continuity from movable piece of track to fixed track?

 

Gary

[shortliner]

Not Armins method, but I use a sub-mini jackplug as the swivel and the matching submini socket for the hole into which it plugs. I solder a piece of PCB across the rails at the swivel point and screw the jack into it - then I feed the rails via the plug and socket - it also makes the sector track removable - hope that helps - you're doing a good job with this, Armin

Jack (shortliner)

[CourthsVeil]

Gentlemen:

Thanks for your comments – it's always good to get feedback and help!

 

Gary: just a short answer (more with my next post). I wired each siding directly. The sector tracks obtain their power this way:

 

  Armin

[CourthsVeil]

A little bit to report:

 

I became distracted for quite a time by experimenting with various approaches to solutions .

 

My plan was to wire not every siding, just the sectors only and the two points. Thus the sid­ings would be powered by being connected to one of the sector tracks. However, when I tried this, it soon became clear that the electrical connections sector-siding were quite unreliab­le . So I went the conventional way and wired each siding directly. The sector tracks obtain their power the way shown in my last post - and below.

Plus a 1cm piece of L-section at the end of the sector track makes a reliable “buffer”: no “pre­cious” loco shooting over the end.

 

Here the left hand sector track is turned out of the way to make transport of the layout less periculous:

 

 

 

The alignment of sector and siding is provided by small brass sections (L-form) soldered to the siding rails:

 

 

This is an old photo – now I solder the sections to the underside of the rails.

 

 

 

A few technicalities: as already said, the baseboard measures 95x30cm, no fiddle yard inten­ded, but a “trainlift” (longer than just a locolift):

 

 

 

Scale/gauge is H0, 1:87 or 3.5mm/ft, plain DC with homemade controller. Track­work is “Piko A” flex track + Tillig points (the cheaper ones – as they are shorter). Points to be operated by Rod-in-Trough; frogs live and sidings at heels depending on point setting (“stop points”, by German manufacturers called “intelligent points” – wuahaha ).

 

The layout is operated from the viewing side. Wiring not led along the underside of the board but in low grooves directly below the ballast/ sleepers.

When I had done all the carving (grooves for the wiring, for the rods and the uncoupling magnets) it looked like this:

 

 

 

In the back­ground there will be a row of (idle?) plant structures (Auhagen make, card­board), the two bridges scratch built. Very little grasses and brambles, all a bit unkempt…

 

 

Locomotives are short industrial types, and rolling stock are chosen for their easily recognized shapes and colors (transporting wood, oil, fruits, scrap, beer, chalk, etc.). Couplings are Sprat&Winkles, neodymium magnets buried in ballast (see above). Wagons too must be short, so UK ty­pes would be better suited than German ones (however, I don’t own a real­ly short UK loco – need a class 03 or a steamy sentinel…), not to mention US stock. So the two gentlemen oper­a­tors (Grandson no.1 and me) will rely mainly on the well tried German Köf locos and other shun­ters:

 

 

 

 

Again: I’m anything than a purist , so if you search for prototype fidelity, you quite sure won't find it here . In my understanding a timesaver is much less a model of something pro­totypical than simply a switching puzzle. In addition this project serves as field for experi­mentation. And taking into account that often stock desig­ned before WW1 ran well into the 1950s, I don’t mind mixing eras as well as roadnames.

 

As usual I’m looking forward to any feedback, and will update with progress.

  Armin

 

 

 

 

 

[CourthsVeil]

Time for an update, me thinks:

 

As already mentioned I lost some time with experiments, e.g. with points – mech as well as electrics. I’m fond of simple solutions (as can be seen with my sector tracks ), but they must be reliable. Which usually makes them complicated to make, but afterwards… I can feel proud!  :imsohappy:

 

This cramped layout cries for short points as well as short stock, switching needs slow locos. Therefore insulfrogs are out of the question.

Finally I settled down to the well proven method of
–  connecting the switch rails to the resp. stock rails
–  polarizing the frogs and
–  powering the heel tracks via the central switch.

 

The points I use are Tillig no. 82321 and 82322, resp. They are short and not so expensive. The frog is polarized via contact between switch and stock rail. This is known to be less reliab­le (dirt!) and in addition prone to shorts caused by thick pizza wheels. But these points can easily be adap­ted.

On the downside, their frogs are rather crude (see below), causing certain locos (NOT all of them!) to “fall” into wide gaps and thus losing contact.

 

Now the how to do: First the frog is pushed out (nail + light hammer):

 

 

 

Then the little V-formed sheet connecting frog and switch rails is taken out:

 

 

 

After five wires are soldered to their resp. places:

 

 

the frog will be pushed in again.

 

 

Connection between switch and stock rail is made with rather fine wires (only one shown above). The pink wire polarizes the frog, grey and blue power the track chosen.

 

 

 

The intent of another experiment was to secure the alignment between sector and fixed track by way of magnets hidden under the sector track:

 

 

 

A small neodymium magnet glued between the sleepers of the sector track was to hold it down safely.
Quite a silly idea , since most of my wagons became uncoupled when carried over this point.

Ripped all these magnets out again …    Result: alignment still maintained without problems !

 

 

Your comments and suggestions always welcome. Follow this thread - more to come soon!

 

  Armin

 

 

[CourthsVeil]

Further progress made:

 

Still some time was spent regarding the question how to switch my points: mechanically by servo or by wire-in-tube? by DPDT or otherwise? electrically: polarized, yes, no question, but how to prevent shorts arising from a loco arriving from the wrong end (a.k.a. “stop point”)?

 

In the past I had gained favourable experience with servos. My preferred method was to power them by another servo. How? Easy: both had lost their controlling electronics, see here!

 

With this design no switch is needed to change direction (still the generating servo’s crank indicates the setting of the point). Polarization of the frog is provided by a simple home-made switch attached to the point’s servo, 2nd image here!

 

Drawback: there's no protection against shorts… The points being positioned heel to heel it occurred (more than once, and easily done when you have a 4-year-old at the control panel) that I/we cau­sed a short, and, by not reacting immediately, made the cont­roller smell & smoke .

 

By the way: I simplified things much by glueing (CA glue ! ) the servo directly to the underside of the sleepers. So I avoided all those well known positioning problems:

 

 

 

 

This servo-to-servo-method did work well, until I came across another design: instead of a servo as power source it uses two 1.5V batteries to drive the point’s servo: here’s Nile’s description, and here my circuit for two points.

 

This solution utilizes DPDT-switches – one pole for the servo, the other one for the electro­frog; the switch knob indicates the setting of the point. This too did work well, but again I missed the short protection.

 

 

Third try: servos abandoned, return to well tried wire-in-tube – but here I make Rod-in-Trough, already described in detail in an older thread. Here I have everything I want: frog polarized, short prevention, point setting indicated at control panel.

BUT ! Still not really satisfied!

 

The wires protruding through the throw bar more than once caught the three-links which are ess­ential for uncoupling. I tried to shorten the latter, which – of course – resulted in less re­li­able uncoupling . When I shortened the switch wires, the throw bar more than once lost them :girldevil:  (try to push this wire into the hole in the throw bar when you don’t see where the wire happens to be, ‘cause it’s hidden under the track… ^*)).

 

Of course this happened not before I had ballasted the whole lot :fool: .

 

 

So into the fourth trial: shorten the brass rods plus drill another hole into the throw bar – this time outside the rails:

 

 

 

Now this works! No longer does the switch wire slip out of its place (cause it’s long enough) and will never again grab the coupling’s links.

 

Here again I have everything I want: frog polarized, stop points, point setting indicated at control panel AND no more problems with couplings.

 

Pheewww !

 

Still I’m looking forward to any feedback, and will update with progress as it happens.

 

  Armin

 

 

 

^*) Warning! Do not perform this work within earshot of grandson no.1! He will add lots of new and exciting words to his daily speech and will take great delight in expressing them loudly in front of the vicar, elderly ladies, and in public places where they will embarrass his parents!

[switcher 1]

I used to put a Z bend in the end of my wire in tube, that stopped it from being pulled out of the tiebar.

[CourthsVeil]

Thank you, Switcher.

The Z- or Omega-bend is a well proven method – IF you have a WIRE. Here we have a stiff rod…

And the wire is pretty unobtrusive – hard to discern in the flesh.

  Armin

[CourthsVeil]

Ballast

 

Well, time for an update!                   

 

After all this mess (until I was satisfied with the points mechanism) there was time for ballasting.

 

But before that the track had to be rusted a bit. Normally I use Tamiya acryl color (TS-62 NATO-brown 85062). Unfortunately my stock went out before I could finish spraying all my track. And the dealer didn’t have this nato-brown on stock. So – in too much of a hurry – I tried another Tamiya paint: copper (PS-14)…

 

Not so good an idea! See for yourself:

 

 

 

In the background we have NATO-brown, to the right a bit painted with Revell “Leather” (which I use often for weathering wheels etc.), and front left the DISASTER .

 

Whilst reading through pretty much threads here as well as on other forums, I learned that rust is not rust! Somewhere at this parish (sorry, don't remember where) I found a nice picture showing nearly every rust colour you may imagine (just not green or blue ), starting with vivid orange and ending in a rather dark brown. Other examples here and there.

 

That’s the reason why I’m not so sweet-toothed when it comes to the “right” colour of rust.

But what is too much is too much . So I got my brush and the Revell leather colour and let the quite unrusty metallic look vanish. Completely! 

 

 

Then I finally could turn to the lovely task of ballasting:

 

As usual, I deviate from the well trodded ways. I do not lay the cork’n’track and then add ballast + PVA. Instead I provide a trackbed of acryl caulk, lay the track on it and then spread this with ballast.

Much faster than the usual method…

 

Toooo fast?? Now a bit slower :

 

 

I press a bead (thickness: a pretty good thumb) of grey acryl caulk directly onto the foamboard and spread it with a serrated trowel (invalid money card) to the width I want:

 

 

 

(The track in question can be seen laying in the middle – rails down and double sided tape which held it in place until now: up.)

 

 

The “trowel” – can be disposed of when finished:

 

 

 

Ready for laying the track (in this case somewhat irregular):

 

 

 

Then the track is laid onto its caulk bed. Important: it must not be pressed into the stuff, but gently laid on it so that the sleepers do have good contact, but the caulk doesn’t spill up between them.

Yes, the ballast is definitely unkempt and looks bodgy. That’s the look I want it – HERE! In other cases I make a well defined shoulder by firstly laying down masking tape, left & right of the track. Then the acryl stuff will follow, spreading over the tape, the tape ripped off, then the track laid down and ballast. That’s it!

 

When laying plain track all this is quite easy. When ballasting points, however, it may become a bit fiddly and need time. To prevent the caulk from developing a skin (in dry air a matter of a minute) I mist the whole area with plain water.

 

Next I cover it with ballast. I use the stuff from mbc-wilderkaiser.at ^*); it is pretty fine, a neutral grey (here the same could be said as above about rust = I don’t mind all those colour discussions), and it doesn’t change colour when wetted or PVA-ed (as many other brands do). I paid for a bag with 1 kg (article no. 402) 19€ incl. p&p – lasts five four-sqft-layouts, or more…

 

It is not needed to go along millimeter for millimeter with tweezers or the dropper. Instead one can – and should – cover the track-on-caulk quite liberally, the thicker the better, as you can see here – above left:

 

 

 

Then it will be tapped lightly – maybe with a stiff brush. The grains must get good contact with the soft caulk (hopefully without dry skin) to adhere permanently:

 

 

 

Go away and let it cure…

 

Next day the excess is hoovered away (the usual method with stocking on nozzle) and – where needed – treated with a wire bristle:

 

 

 

On the other hand the few bald spots will get a bit of PVA+WW and additional ballast.

 

The magnets are buried under the caulk, and still work fine, the pieces of double-sided tape are left and are hidden under the ballast.

 

A length of track of one meter is done within five minutes, no bodgy back, not boring. The afterwork is not more than the usual way. I like it, quite simply.

 

Discussion?

 

Regards

  Armin

 

^*) usual disclaimer here - just satisfied customer.

[CourthsVeil]

No discussion? Alright then!

 

What makes me wonder, however, is that this thread gets some 200 views every post I do, but (nearly) no response in the form of comments, suggestions, criticism.

Why?

This is not a complaint, just a question .

 

 

Ballasting points

 

To complement my last post: points (and crossings, slips as well) may cause a bit of trouble.

 

I protect the point mechanism by attaching a bit of sello tape (or double sided carpet tape) under the sleepers – only 5 cm, just where the point blades end. Sticky side up! When I lay the points onto the caulk bed, the soft stuff cannot creep up and interfere with the blades, whereas the ballast will adhere to the sticky side of the tape betweeen the sleepers.
 

Simples !

 

In addition I put two strips of cardboard between point blades and stock rails:

 

 

 

I have no problems with my points ballasted this way .

 

 

Which kind of acryl caulk do I use? Well, the cheapest brand I can find. Only proviso I obser­ve is that the stuff is labelled “permanently elastic”; thus I disconnect the track from the ba­se: noise suppressed!

As all styrodur foamboards are quite good resonators (lightweight + closed cell, both BAD), the use of any permanently pliable ma­terial should be of benefit. With this method no cork, rubber or other stuff needed…

(In fact this is not such an issue with short shunting layouts, where locos are generally small and run at low speed. Still, I like this noise-deadening property!)

 

Whilst waiting for several things to dry etc., I began making background buldings: a set of six low relief warehouses. It is an Auhagen kit – quite easy to do and not much to report (usual customer disclaimer).

 

 

Watch this space - more to follow!

 

  Armin

[rodshaw]

I made those very same Auhagen warehouses in TT scale a couple of years ago - very nice too.

[Stubby47]

Armin,

 

My concern would be the weight of a loco on the unsupported end of the sector plate track - would this cause strain on the pivot point / pivot block ?

 

Stu

[CourthsVeil]

Good morning!

 

Thank you for your comments, they are appreciated!

 

Rod, these warehouses are 1:100, i.e. between HO and TT. As such they are well suited as background for 1:87 stock.

 

Stu, the overhang is just 3½ in (i.e. the length of a Köf shunter). By far not enough to seriously cause strain on the pivot (4mm dia bolt in a wooden block glued into a recess – see my post #7  above). And the rails are rigid enough to prevent any bending of the track.

 

Regards

  Armin

[cklammer]

Hallo Armin,

 

 as to being quiet: I always click the like-buttons ... and as I read mostly on the mobile and I blew through my mobile plan's free data volume allotment this month already ...

 

 But really, I am very impressed with your ballasting approach ... very smartly done.

 

Best of Luck,

Christian

[CourthsVeil]

Controlling

 

Afternoon!

 

Today just another shorty:                   

 

The control panel of my Enigma layout can be a rather simple thing. Only two points and at all times just one loco in service, doesn’t require an elaborate design. Especially nothing digital! (I’m well acquain­ted to micro computers etc., digital Angst is not the point. But, as already said, I always prefer simple solutions…) Also I shudder when I think of the squeaky sound my little shunter might emit.

 

So I let the photos speak for themselves:

 

 

 

The controller has been proposed by Frank (Dukedog) in his blog. I didn’t solder it to PCB, rather I used a choc-block – here five terminals. Schematic here:

 

 

 

This unusual solution (not my invention!) works a treat. Main advantage: if some­thing goes wrong, I don’t have to unsolder it but to unscrew. Makes replacement (as well as experimenting) much easier!

   edit 7/2020: BC107 may be replaced by BC337,338

                      TIP126 by TIP145,146,147

   and don't forget to provide the latter with a valid heat sink !!

 

This regulator works exactly as Frank wrote: “… and the slow running is excellent for such a simple circuit. It will put a lot of PWM controllers to shame!” I say: it is a little marvel ^*). Makes my small shunters start slowly creeping – NICE!

 

Next installment will deal with ground cover…

 

  Armin
 

 

 

^*) During the last months I’ve made ten quite different controllers and tested them. None of them was better than this simple back-EMF device – not even the much more complicated ones – only two equal it in allround performance (e.g. soft start with old pancakes too).

 

 

Remark: at the moment I'm unable to upload any images – will try again later!  – done!

 

 

.

[CourthsVeil]

Good evening!

 

Cover Up

 

Yes, it is time to cover up the pink-green styrodur, the grooves etc. and all the mistakes I made in the meantime.

 

Ground is rodent’s sand (Chinchilla etc.), the sand for bird cages is too coarse for 1:87. PVA with 50% (or so) “wetted” water, then liberally spread with the sand. For the next step no drying time needed:

 

This stuff, however, is a lot too light – esp. in a shunting yard. Therefore my old watercolour set with a rather thick brush delivers a well (!!!) thinned wash (black, ochre, blue…) over the sand:

 

 

 

Some variation in hues and saturation is essential; therefore I repeat this several times.

 

Grass: first I sprinkle some (!) areas with Polak Flockdekor 810x; being like dust it makes a nice matte ground cover.

 

Thereafter the mixed 2mm stuff (Silhouette Gras-Flock) over PVA+WW (less diluted) applied with my homebodged grassmaster, then Noch “wildgrass” green and beige.

 

Then follow the bushes: I have several bags with rubber-foam-like stuff (various brands, cal­led “clump-foliage” or “turf”, various colours – sorry have all the labels thrown away…). Drops of (mostly) undiluted PVA are the base for bushes of all kind, even for hedges. The latter may be supported by short strips of card glued vertically to the baseboard.

 

Brambles – in my opinion a must. I would not like to miss Woodland-Noch Foliage no. 95400. Seems to be quite similar to rubberized HH (a thing we don’t know at all in Germany…).

 

The foamy consistency of many of the bushes may be concealed a bit by sprinkling some of the “dusty” flockdekor over them (spray-glued before).

 

Some pictures:

 

Light sand with a streak for watercolour wash (track later to be invisible under bridge, therefore no rust/ballast)

 

 

 

Flockdekor with a bit of short grass:

 

 

 

Wild grass:

 

 

 

Bushes:
 

 

 

Brambles (above: bare card, down: grown up):

 

 

 

Aahhh, a bit of makadam… I found a piece of dark grey sandpaper (grit 1200 !! ). Very con­vincing, if rubbed with my fingertips. Must be glued well, ‘cos the edges tend to curl up!

 

 

And what is this garish pinhead good for (it is not alone, there are 7 more)?

 

 

Well, will eventually be replaced by this sign

 

                     Wuahahahaha!

 

 

 

Hope you enjoy !

 

 

   Armin

 

 

PS: progress of making backscene structures for this layout may be followed at my re-awakened thread Pappendeckel buildings.

 

 

Edit: I knew that SAME is not the same as SOME.

[cklammer]

 

Well, will eventually be replaced by this sign

 

MAGNET 1.jpg                     Wuahahahaha!

 

 

 

Hope you enjoy !

 

 

   Armin

 

 

PS: progress of making backscene structures for this layout may be followed at my re-awakened thread Pappendeckel buildings.

 

 

Edit: I knew that SAME is not the same as SOME.

 

Moin, Armin,

 

 why not a some trackside debris or bushes or other vegetation like a (red) flower?

 

 Or you cloud use the old Märklin H0 decoupler posts 

 

Best Regards,

Christian