Nile's kitbuilding bench - Midland 1377

[Spitfire2865]

Hi Guy, I'm unsure if you are addressing me or another but just incase I'll answer. I like them to work and I use functional fouplings mixed with Dingham's. I just don't like the (older apparently) Smiths ones as the middle screw lever is literaly a nail - and it looks like one!

Im not disagreeing. A nail is very clearly a nail and not a turnbuckle. What I interpreted from this conversation is the range of offerings, and possibilities.

Sorry if I offended you.

[MikeTrice]

Out of interest do you have any idea what radius the completed 6 wheel chassis will navigate?

[Nile]

With the Roxey etched couplings, why not solder the links to the central section? If you want your coupling either to hang down or to be taught between vehicles - simulating screwed up - then it doesn't need to flex.

 

That would be fine for use within fixed rakes. You couldn't leave it hanging down because it's too long, it would drag along the track.

 

Mike Trice asked:

Out of interest do you have any idea what radius the completed 6 wheel chassis will navigate?

 

I've only tested them through my 36" radius points with no problems. I've got some set-track but not sure what box it's in.

[Knuckles]

Im not disagreeing. A nail is very clearly a nail and not a turnbuckle. What I interpreted from this conversation is the range of offerings, and possibilities.Sorry if I offended you.

 

Offended?

 

No not in the slightest. Why would you think so?

[Nile]

Moving onto the other coaches I'm building from 'semi-kits', the only bits I don’t have are the S handles. I haven't found a source for these so I decided to make my own. I made a jig with two drill bits, 1.0 and 0.6mm. Some 0.5mm brass rod was bent around them.

 

 

When removed from the jig and another bend added this is the result.

 

 

Comparison with the original.

 

 

A closer view, with the Roxey door handle added.

 

 

Now I just have to make loads more.

Edited December 18, 2022 by Nile

[MikeTrice]

I like them a lot, but they could probably do with being made from thinner brass - say 0.4mm 0r 0.35mm

[Knuckles]

Looking loads better than the moulded ones. Can imagine them being tedius to fit them all.

 

Would you get a better result if using 0.35 or 0.4mm wire instead? That'd give roughly an inch to and inch and a half grab handle thickness in real life.

 

I have no idea what the real ones were though.

 

Looking better either way.

 

 

EDIT - I typed this out, noticed a spelling mistake and edited it then noticed the reply above that wasn't there when I was typing. So I wasn't copying!! Odd timing.

The fact we have both concluded the same may be a bolstering anyway.

Edited February 23, 2016 by Knuckles

[Nile]

You're both right, I think I used 0.5 because I've lots to hand. I've found some 0.4 so will make some with that as well.

[Nile]

Having made and fitted the handles to this coach I've fitted the other bits to its end. These are the long handrails, brake pipe, couplings and buffers.

 

 

I could now see how well the couplings work with two coaches. The gap between the buffers is 5mm, this can be reduced by 2mm by using the shorter centre piece on the etch.

 

 

Another roof made up in the same way as before.

 

 

With the roof stuck on this coach is now finished.

 

The roof needs to be stuck on because it bows up slightly in the middle. I'm only using glue on the central partitions so that I might be able to get it off if need be.

 

Here are the two coaches completed so far.

 

I have another four of these to finish, but there is no hurry. Coming next will be some locos.

Edited December 18, 2022 by Nile

[Knuckles]

They look juicy, even without the lining.

 

A train of about 5 would look swell pottering about.

 

I want to build a few 4 wheelers at some point. I think the older coaches look more interesting than the later bigger ones.

[Nile]

The Ratio kits are good and now come with metal wheels.

[Knuckles]

I got Ratio kits with the metal wheels but I dislike the chassis. I always struggled to get them to run well but I know there is a company that made a brass etched replacement. Can't remember who it was but I'll find it when I look again.

[Guy Rixon]

I got Ratio kits with the metal wheels but I dislike the chassis. I always struggled to get them to run well but I know there is a company that made a brass etched replacement. Can't remember who it was but I'll find it when I look again.

 

If you mean the Ratio kits of GWR 4-wheel coaches, then the replacement chassis was by Mainly Trains so now presumed discontinued. Bill Bedford does suspension suitable for these kits, IIRC, and that includes some brake shoes and hangers, but not all the brake rigging or other underframe fittings.

[Moxy]

If you mean the Ratio kits of GWR 4-wheel coaches, then the replacement chassis was by Mainly Trains so now presumed discontinued.

 

Mainly trains underframe still available, http://www.mainlytrains.co.uk/acatalog/4mm-coa-kit-detailing+underframe.html

 

Regards

 

Moxy

[Nile]

And now for something slightly different. I'll return to these coaches later when I've done some more, but I've also been working on some locos. These use 3D printed parts from Shapeways.

 

First up is a LNER Y7 by Brack Models, printed in Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD).

This is what you get, after a bit of cleaning.

 

 

The chassis is designed to use a gearhead motor and bevel gears that the designer found on ebay. I've modified it so that I can use one of the many motors and gearboxes I've got stashed away. This involved removing the motor mount and a bit of filing of a cross member.

 

 

In theory it would be possible to drive the rear axle using a high-level gearbox and some contortion, but with a 1020 motor there would be no room for a flywheel. I thought this little loco could do with a flywheel so I've gone for another combination, a Romford gearbox and gears (40:1 I think, they weren't labelled).

 

 

The downside of this is that the worm is visible under the boiler.

 

I think I can live with that, and it won't look so bad when everything has been painted.

Edited December 18, 2022 by Nile

[Spitfire2865]

You might even be able to blacken the worm. Or slip a piece of black paper around it to form a shell.

[Nile]

I like the black paper idea Trevor, I'll give that a try later.

Moving onto the wheels and the closest match I found in my stockpile was these.

 

They are the right diameter (14mm) and have the right number of spokes (10) but as you can see they are actually coach wheels with 2mm axles. Bearings are not a problem, but fitting coupling rods to these wheels would be a bit of a challenge (I have a cunning plan).

A test fit of the body, checking wheel clearance.

 

 

Before I went any further I thought I'd test the motor-gearbox-wheel combination.  The motor has some temporary wires attached.

 

 

With some improvised weight on the body the loco was able to run, even with only one axle powered.

 

There is plenty of room inside the tanks for proper weights.

Edited December 18, 2022 by Nile

[Nile]

Out of interest do you have any idea what radius the completed 6 wheel chassis will navigate?

 

I now have a better answer to this question. While digging around in some boxes I found some Hornby 2nd radius track, which I think is 18inches. Both coaches managed to negotiate it ok.

[Spitfire2865]

Id like to see you turn coach wheels into drivers.

A bit of railway alchemy.

Edited March 6, 2016 by Spitfire2865

[Nile]

It's not quite lead into gold but here goes.

First, this loco needs coupling rods. I've made these from the leftovers of the Brassmasters etches used on the coaches, the ends are 14BA washers.

 

Each rod is two layers thick with overlaps at the ends. One washer at each end is cut into a C shape to fit around the longer strip.

 

To convert the coach wheels into drivers they need crankpins. For these I've used 14BA screws, shortened and with the heads filed down.

 

 

These were glued into place between the spokes with superglue gel. The head of the screw is against the centre of the wheel, a washer is added on the front.

 

 

Putting all the bits back together, with some more washers and nuts, this is what you get.

 

I've replaced the pin-point axles with some 2mm silver-steel rod left over from a high-level gearbox kit. It fits the wheels perfectly and is easy to cut. And it does work. It may not be the strongest or most durable set-up, but for light duties it should be fine.

 

In other news I've added lead weights to the side tanks.

 

No more balancing weight on top of the loco.

 

Meanwhile I've made this mysterious thing from some brass rod.

 

It will be going somewhere on the chassis, any ideas?

Edited December 18, 2022 by Nile

[Horsetan]

Interesting.

[Spitfire2865]

3 point suspension?

[Nile]

Correct.

[Knuckles]

Great progress so far! You're really not letting anything stop you here.

I haven't tried the suspension method so I'm interested to see how this will turn out.

 

I was going to guess it is a cylinder drain cock.

[Horsetan]

I rather like the translucent state as delivered. Reminds me of one of those gigantic ice sculptures that you see at some winter festivals.