RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 8, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 8, 2016 It had an interesting odour as well, a bit like almond. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 8, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) My experience of small 4 wheeled locos is that they struggle away from perfect plain track. To combat this I thought I'd try to give this loco a bit of compensation by allowing the rear axle to rock. The brass rod thingy I made locates into a hole in a chassis cross member above the axle. It was glued in place with some epoxy glue, resting on the axle until set. This photo shows it after the axle was removed. The axle holes in the chassis were then elongated vertically to allow about 1mm of movement. Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 It had an interesting odour as well, a bit like almond. So does cyanide, apparently.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 8, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 8, 2016 I thought that too, but I'm still here! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 .... I'm still here! Are you sure? Or are you in a parallel universe? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 FUD does smell like almond. It's nice actually. I dunk my FUD models in white spirit for about an how for cleaning. Apparently some love this method and swear by it and others condemn it - worked for me so far. A small amount of cyanide combats cancer, but 'they' don't want you to know that. Eating Peach and Apricot seeds have vitamin B17 in (and cyanide!) and there is a tribe that trade the seeds for currency - they never get cancer. I eat the seeds, they taste like almonds. I eat most fruit seeds too. I did a study on apple seeds and apparently they have cyanide in too but you need to eat about 20 full apples in one go before you die. --- Compensation, is it that simple to compensate on a pin? I haven't tried this method yet but if it is that simple then I might just give it a bash. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 ... I did a study on apple seeds and apparently they have cyanide in too but you need to eat about 20 full apples in one go before you die. Remind me to bring you some of my Swiss aunt's lovely apple seed cake.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 9, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) Meanwhile back on planet Earth* I've made some pick-ups. A piece of single sided PCB with a cut down the middle, some phosphor bronze rods and some wires. All soldered together before gluing to the chassis. After gluing to the chassis I bent the rods to meet the wheel rims. With the wheels fitted final adjustments are made. With the wires soldered to the motor the chassis can now move on its own, on some track. The white thing under the motor is a sticky pad holding it down. * it might not be your Earth. Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brack Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Watching with interest, only 3 or 4 of these have been printed so far. You're not exactly making it easy for yourself with the chassis/wheels/gears combination, but it looks like it should work ok. On mine I used a rather over geared motor (nearly 400:1). It was a bit too slow but ran well and pulled 600g of lead balanced on a 16t mineral wagon. I didn't test it further as I figured it was more than powerful enough. I never had any pickup troubles, but the compensation ought to help. Any questions just ask. I assume you've read the instructions/photos on my website (shapeways don't let you add enough in the of instructions so I put them on my own page). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 10, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) Hi Brack, yes I've used your instructions as well as lots of photos via Google as guidance. I like to experiment and try new ideas sometimes, if it doesn't work I could still use more conventional methods. I would have liked to use a higher gear ratio, I have 60:1 gears but the main gear is as big as the wheels! It seems to run slow enough with these ones. Onto today’s episode, securing the body to the chassis. This is how I've done it. At the rear of the body I've added some bits of micro strip. The chassis locates into the space above them. The front of the chassis will be held in place by a screw. For this I took a small piece of brass strip and drilled a hole in it. This was glued into the chassis inside the sandboxes. The screw will pass up through the hole into the smokebox. Inside the bottom of the smokebox is a piece of scrap wood drilled to accept the screw. A small piece of the chassis broke away while doing this, a hazard of this material. Fortunately there is enough left for this to work. Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brack Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Mine just wedged on. The idea was to put a bit of wire through the little hole in the tab at front and rear to lock it to the chassis, but the friction fit alone was more than solid enough to handle it on mine. You've opted for a more conventional fitting method which should be very solid. I am a little jealous of you fitting a flywheel in. But having seen your other builds and bashes I'm looking forward to the finished model. Will it be a br/lner/NER loco or in private ownership? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 10, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 10, 2016 You're right in that I can just wedge the body on at the moment, but I don't expect that to last forever. I've gone for long term reliability. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 The gears you have used look like "Romford" type 50 or 60:1. "Ultrascale" type gears have a smaller diameter worm with a gear of about they same size, so the worm would be a bit less obtrusive. 50:1 ratio would be good with those diameter wheels and that motor. I've referred to them as Ultrascale type gears as they first introduced a worm/gear of that particulate profile (100DP). However, they are now used by Branchlines, London Road Models, Markits,, etc. as well as Ultrascale. They have the benefit of straight cut gear teeth, so allow for a bit of sideplay, unlike the concave cut teeth of the Romford type. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 This thread is becoming very interesting. I love following a blog build so thanks for keeping us all posted, I'm learning a trick or two here and there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 12, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 12, 2016 (edited) Next - adding details to the chassis. Brake shoes are included in the kit. After cleaning I glued some 0.5mm brass rods to them. These rods will fit into holes in the chassis. Once these were fitted the rest of the brake gear could be installed. This all has to be glued together with superglue gel, solder is not really an option here. Also added were sand pipes and guard irons. I've added triangular reinforcing pieces between the chassis and steps to stop me from breaking them, just in case. A view form the top side. I've filled the hole I accidentally made in the top of the sandbox. Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Looking really good so far. Nice tweaks and additions too. For your compensated axle are your bushes/bearings free to move in downward enlarged frame holes, is that your method or have you fixed the bushes and reamed the brass downwards? Looks like the former based on your picture. It is something I want to try as a quick bodge. Well, I guess some would see it as a bodge but it doesn't have to be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Excellent stuff, I am watching with interest, as I, too, have one of Brack's prints for this loco...... With the enlarged axle bearing hole in the chassis, is there a risk the bearing itself may try to turn in the chassis? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 13, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 13, 2016 In answer to the above questions, it is the hole in the chassis that has been elongated vertically. The bearing is unchanged and free to move up and down ,in what is now a slot. It may also rotate as there is nothing to stop it, will this be a problem? The chassis frames are 1.6mm thick, about the same as the bearings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Neil, the bearing shouldn't rotate, otherwise it may wear the slot in the frames. All the proprietary hornguide/bearing systems have a square hornblock bearing running in the guide (just like the real thing). Jol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 (edited) Neil, the bearing shouldn't rotate, otherwise it may wear the slot in the frames. All the proprietary hornguide/bearing systems have a square hornblock bearing running in the guide (just like the real thing). Jol .... or you could simply solder a piece of thin springy wire to the bearing rim, with the opposite end bent trough 90 degrees and loosely anchored in a hole drilled in the frame. The bearing can't rotate, but it can move up and down. (Do I hear the model engineers amongst us having a fit of the vapours)? Regards, John Isherwood. Edited March 13, 2016 by cctransuk 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 13, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 13, 2016 (edited) Some food for thought there, thanks. I'm not going to worry about the wear issue on this loco at the moment as it's not going to see much (if any) use any time soon, but I shall consider it in future builds. On with this build, and this is where things get a bit weird. As I have no need for a LNER Y7 this will be one of those for industrial use around 1930. Over time it has had a bunker added and a replacement boiler that has a dome. The bunker was made up from 40thou plastic card. Before fitting it a hole was made in the back sheet to let the coal out. Here are the component parts waiting to be glued together. With the bunker in place I tried various domes from the bits box, this one seemed to fit best. I think it's from a Midland 1F. Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 14, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) While it's still nude I've added the handrails and other brass bits. The rim around the cab opening is some 10thou microstrip. There is a big difference in the widths of the boiler and smokebox. This results in odd looking handrails. If they were straight they would foul the filler caps. I can't tell from photos what they do on the real thing. Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brack Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Short/long handrail knobs I think, to give straight handrails. The left hand side has some sort of pipe/rod inside it I suspect. Looking at the two preserved examples plus older photos I came to the conclusion that there were quite a few differences, even the location of the blower pipe on the preserved locos seems to have changed after overhauls. Some of the y7s even had a continuous handrail round both sides and arched over the smoke box. Given your loco is somewhat altered I'd say whatever you choose ought to look fine! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Seems a good enough solution. Though on the 12" to the foot ones, they might have had a couple right angle bends. I wouldnt know. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 If they were straight they would foul the filler caps. I can't tell from photos what they do on the real thing. Does this help? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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