Nile's kitbuilding bench - Midland 1377

[Nile]

My lowering of the axles by 1mm hasn't helped there, but the centre one does look a bit off as well. Not enough to warrant moving them though.

It was after painting the chassis black and reassembling it that I noticed the J65 has outside brake rigging, oh joy!

To avoid any possible shorts I've made it out of 30thou square microstrip, the best compromise I thought between strength and appearance. This was taken during assembly.

 

The cross members were super-glued to the bottom of the brake hangers, the outside rigging was then glued to them.

 

The view from above, after trimming.

 

 

After the addition of some more black paint it was re-united with the body for a test run. The body has had lead weights glued inside the tanks.

 

And very well it runs too.

Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile

[PenrithBeacon]

...

 

And very well it runs too

I'm sure it does, can't possibly imagine that the opposite would be the case. The last photo though (which I didn't manage to reproduce, sorry) does, I think, show one of the issues with 3D Printing. That is that the designers, in their efforts to give their customer a complete kit for ease of assembly, forget that there is a lot of cleaning up to do with a 3D part and all the detail gets in the way of this very necessary process.

 

I can't help but think that if this kit, and others like it, were supplied in bits for the customer to assemble, ie cab, boiler/firebox/smoke box, side tanks etc it would be much easier to clean up the 'bobbles' which seem to be such a feature of the surface texture of 3D Printing.

 

Regards

Edited April 2, 2016 by PenrithBeacon

[Knuckles]

I think it depends on the design on a case by case basis. I supply boiler pipes on some loco's but they are sprued underneith for the reason you mentioned about cleaning. Also some engines would rem9ve it or swap sides through their life.

 

Looking good so far. I might try your compensation method one day.

Edited April 2, 2016 by Knuckles

[PenrithBeacon]

I think it depends on the design on a case by case basis. I supply boiler pipes on some loco's but they are sprued underneith for the reason you mentioned about cleaning. Also some engines would rem9ve it or swap sides through their life.

 

Looking good so far. I might try your compensation method one day.

Just out of interest, could you give your Shapeways webpage, please.

 

Regards

[Knuckles]

Sure...

 

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/sparkshotcustomcreationsscc

 

Although you could just click on my signature!

[PenrithBeacon]

Sure...

 

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/sparkshotcustomcreationsscc

 

Although you could just click on my signature!

Thank you for the gen. I did so click but there was no info there about Shapeways.

 

Took a look at your Shapeways page, there's lots of nice stuff there!

 

Regards

Edited April 3, 2016 by PenrithBeacon

[Knuckles]

Thanks. For loco bodies I have two uploads for each design, basically so the FUD item doesn't have to degrade to the WSF. So the FUD will have finer running plate lips and such like.

 

Also I keep on about it but is there any way to significantly drop the prices (especially FUD) other than buying a good printer myself? Ideally I want them all dropped by £15-25 or more. Maybe I'm asking too much! It is my aim though.

 

Currently working on the Furness J1 as a new Loco.

 

 

 

To Nile: With this compensated loco did you place the plastic shims besides the bushes/bearings by feel thus guaging the amount of clearence or did you measure it somehow? I keep looking back at it and wanting to have a go myself. I know some said the bushes shouldn't be free as they can wear away but if the shims are nickel silver or something I guess they would be fine. It's basically a poor mans hornblock in principle!

Edited April 3, 2016 by Knuckles

[Nile]

When gluing the plastic guides in place I used the bearings as a guide. The bearings were held in place using LRM alignment jigs (axles with pointy ends) and the front coupling rods.

The rotating bearing issue will be dealt with later, I have a cunning plan.

Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile

[PenrithBeacon]

Thank you for the gen. I did so click but there was no info there about Shapeways.

 

Took a look at your Shapeways page, there's lots of nice stuff there!

 

Regards

Now I understand! I normally use the 'mobile' theme because its quicker, but signatures only come up in the 'RMweb 2106' theme. Any way I've given your post a 'like'.

 

Regards

[Nile]

To be able to fit working couplings, usually Kadee for me, I've fitted some NEM362 sockets to the chassis. I have various types that have been removed from wagons, I selected some that best fitted into the space available.

 

 

Close up of the front.

 

 

Close up of the rear. The socket will have to be removed from its mount to access the body securing screw.

 

 

At the front a shorty no.17 is needed.

 

A no.19 works at the rear.

Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile

[Knuckles]

Looking good.

 

Seriously I keep looking at your 'compo' and the more I do the more I want to have a go.

 

You must have inspired me...!

 

What livery will it have?

Edited April 4, 2016 by Knuckles

[Nile]

I don't want to spoil the surprise, but its colour will still be black.

[Nile]

Some additions to the body, handrails and paint that isn't black.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tank and bunker sides have been given a gloss coat of Klear to make them ready for some transfers.

Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile

[N15class]

I like the theory behind 3D printing. But I find the finish even after all the work done lets it down. 1960's Triang for all their faults were at least smooth.

 

You have done a great job with what you had to work with, I would try building with plasticard it gives the right sort of look and is actually quite easy. Brass and nickel are better but I know these can be daunting for some builders.

[Knuckles]

You can tet WSF perfectly smooth in ar3as with filler primer and sanding but it takes a few goings over and takes time.

 

You can get a FUD print and especially an FXD print that is good and maybe this new HDA will be smooth in time (will find out soon) but they cost more than WSF, and that is the issue I guess.

 

When you have fully painted and lined a WSF print they can still look good from most typical angles and distancies, just zooming in reveals the lack.

 

Have you seen my prototype K2 WSF print?

 

-----

 

Good progress with the paint. I see you have hand rails too. Also looks like a brass smokebox dart?

Edited April 7, 2016 by Knuckles

[Nile]

With the addition of some transfers the loco now has an identity.

 

 

It also has another identity. This was one of the last survivors.

 

Two for the price/space/time of one!

 

The cab windows were glazed using the chads produced by a paper hole punch, which happen to be a perfect fit. They were secured with some glue'n'glaze around the edge, which is still wet in the photo.

 

 

Rather than completely fill the bunker with coal, I first glued some in the bottom just poking out of the access hole.

 

 

Then I glued an old bit of wood inside, later painted black.

 

 

A layer of coal was then glued on top.

 

Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile

[PenrithBeacon]

...Have you seen my prototype K2 WSF print?

 

...

From your Shapeways page http://www.shapeways.com/product/XWQZYNU6N/fr-k2-body-wsf?li=shop-results&optionId=56757349 " 'White Strong & Flexible: White nylon plastic with a matte finish and slight grainy feel. ' ".

 

My query is the phrase 'slight grainy feel'. I assume that this is a reference to the surface finish, its sounds like a bit of spin to me.

 

Regards

Edited April 10, 2016 by PenrithBeacon

[Knuckles]

WSF is grainy yeah, if they do a good print then it will be slightly grainy if they do a not so good print it will be clearly grainy, also that description isn't mine but Shapeways auto generate it. Either way for best results I use Halfords filler primer and wet 'n' dry papers and go over it about 3 times. Takes a good bit of effort but there you go - it is the cheapest option.

 

If you look at the completed photographs of the WSF K2 hopefully you will see the surface is mostly smooth but some nooks and cranies and the smokebox door I didn't do so well.

 

-

 

Engine looking good.

I like the idea of a duel livery, will only work in certain configurations though!

Edited April 10, 2016 by Knuckles

[JCL]

I agree with Knuckles. I'm really impressed with his designs, especially the tenders. These look like multiple parts that need to be glued together, and the way he has carved them up means that they would be easier to clean. I'm at the second prototype test stage of a GNR 0-4-4 G1, which I've ordered in FUD. I've separated out the cab insides, condensing gear, chimney and safety valve cover, to a sprue for easier cleaning and painting but there will always be some nooks and crannies which might be a problem. Stirling and Ivatt GNR locos are a challenge with regards to cabs as they are a compound curve with no separate roof, so there is no easy way of removing the top.

 

As with everything, you pays yer money and makes yer choice. If you don't have a lot of cash, but you do have time, WSF could be the better way to go. FUD will keep its detail as less cleanup is required, but it is often twice the price. Yes there are limitations (like there is with any material), but unless you are a proficient scratchbuilder, the great thing about 3D printing is that prototypes of vehicles can be made and bought that one would never have a chance of owning otherwise.

 

I'm not sure about spin as their website photos show the surface texture. If the finish is not as per Shapeways photos, you can email them and ask for a new model to be printed. I've had to do this twice, and although it is frustrating, it was a straightforward process.

 

It'll be interesting to see what you come up with next Knuckles.

Edited April 11, 2016 by JCL

[PenrithBeacon]

...

 

It'll be interesting to see what you come up with next Knuckles.

But perhaps on his own thread in Smaller Suppliers? Edited April 11, 2016 by PenrithBeacon

[Knuckles]

I agree with Knuckles. I'm really impressed with his designs, especially the tenders. These look like multiple parts that need to be glued together, and the way he has carved them up means that they would be easier to clean. I'm at the second prototype test stage of a GNR 0-4-4 G1, which I've ordered in FUD. I've separated out the cab insides, condensing gear, chimney and safety valve cover, to a sprue for easier cleaning and painting but there will always be some nooks and crannies which might be a problem. Stirling and Ivatt GNR locos are a challenge with regards to cabs as they are a compound curve with no separate roof, so there is no easy way of removing the top.

As with everything, you pays yer money and makes yer choice. If you don't have a lot of cash, but you do have time, WSF could be the better way to go. FUD will keep its detail as less cleanup is required, but it is often twice the price. Yes there are limitations (like there is with any material), but unless you are a proficient scratchbuilder, the great thing about 3D printing is that prototypes of vehicles can be made and bought that one would never have a chance of owning otherwise.

I'm not sure about spin as their website photos show the surface texture. If the finish is not as per Shapeways photos, you can email them and ask for a new model to be printed. I've had to do this twice, and although it is frustrating, it was a straightforward process.

It'll be interesting to see what you come up with next Knuckles.

Thanks for the compliments. The tenders are super easy kits with only a few parts. The reason for the inserts (besides cleaning) is so the main tender space can be accessed easily if one wants to add weight, or DCC chips or A motor etc.

 

Couldn't agree more with your comment BTW. I like WSF now I have a nack for brushing it up as it is affordable but FUD is better. The price though....ugh.

 

Also like Penrithbeacon said, you can always follow my threads. I'm doing some improvements here and there tweaking for best results but the major project I'm currently working on is a Furness J1. Once that is fully completed and ready for release I plan to back date it to an E1 and the Cambrian equivalent. So far I have 4 different chimney's! It seems they could never make up their mind what specification to use.

[JCL]

But perhaps on his own thread in Smaller Suppliers?

I'm so sorry, yes that was really off topic.

[Nile]

A minor update this time as it's still not finished. I've added some extra roding/pipework at the front both sides of the boiler. One of them works the sandbox, don't know about the others.

 

 

On the chassis I've come up with a bodge to stop the bearings from rotating while allowing them to move up and down. A piece of plastic card is glued onto the top of the bearing, its lower end was filed concave to match the bearing. Another piece of plastic has been glued across the vertical guides for a bit of extra security. The axle still has enough movement for the compensation to work.

 

 

There are still a few more things to add but it's nearly there.

Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile

[Nile]

Vacuum and air pipes have been added front and rear.

 

These are Romford parts, bent around and glued to the back of the buffer beam.

This created a problem as there was then not enough clearance for the chassis. This was modified by removing a small amount from each end between the frames.

 

This gives enough clearance for the tails of the pipes.

 

 

I've made a removable number plate for use in BR guise. The number was printed in various sizes, 8 looked best to me. after trimming it was glued to a piece of brass strip.

 

 

The 'number board' rests on the brackets originally used for destination boards.

 

Edited December 3, 2022 by Nile

[Knuckles]

I brought Fox-Tranfers for my E2 number board and strugled like heck putting them on black painted plastic card.

 

Your method looks easier!

 

I usually bend the pipes around the buffer beam too but sometimes I bend them then clip them off jusr after the bend - solves the chassis conflict then.