ThePurplePrimer Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Next up - Sandboxes Due to the need to box the Kato chassis in the bit below the saddle tank is a bit - iffy I decided to put a long low sand box at the front - does this look about ok ? ( it's not glued yet ) Also I have this area I have marked in purple ( what else ) where I will need some gubbins - what do you think I should be suggesting here - pictures would be great please as my knowledge is limited Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 This might give you some ideas - there would be a water injector with associated pipework. Perhaps a toolbox, and an operating rod from the cab to the sand box. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePurplePrimer Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 My Target weight for this body based on my tests with the bare Kato chassis ballasted with some lead weight was 33g and I have been popping in weight were I can. I have just test fitted the crew figures and popped it on my accurate scales and I am currently at 22.8g - that will be almost spot on when I am finished I also threw a quick coat of primer so I could see where I needed attention at the tank skinning joints Back to the dome. I wanted a flange on it and I wanted a small radius and I wondered if there was an easy way to get this. I had noticed an effect ( usually not wanted ) when using thick superglue so I tried to put this to my advantage. I made an elliptical ring or collar that you saw a few pictures back - I glued this down over the dome. When it was dry I run a bead of thick superglue ( Zap-a-Gap ) and hope that the meniscus that it created would act as a radius fillet - I think for a small radius like this its worked well enough ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePurplePrimer Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 If you can remember right at the beginning I wanted to retain the Kato tab and slot idea to hold the body on. I cut the slots to match the chassis in the footplate and used a small quarter round strip to act as a retainer - it slides back over the curved face and then clips into place and is held. To remove the chassis it needs only to be lifted slightly to be able to ride over the curved strip and be slid forward - great - but ... As the skirts are now fitted it was getting really difficult to remove the body from the chassis. I needed a tool - after all if you are going into loco production you will be expected to produce servicing tools I drilled two 1mm holes in the front of the Kato chassis and bent up a paper clip - hopefully the pictures will explain the rest. Also started work on a simple retainer for the roof - needs a little work at the top of the cab for a neater fit This is the current state of the build Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePurplePrimer Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 An idea of context and scale Seen here with a Tralee & Dingle van and the man from the bank to see what the money is being spent on Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Spoons Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Hi Rob, I'm liking the look of this greatly; just wondering if you got a reply from Archers about the fuzzy rivets - I used their louvres on my trolley and they were crisp and clearly printed..... from the picture you posted those rivets look a bit out of register. Best regards David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePurplePrimer Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Hi Rob, I'm liking the look of this greatly; just wondering if you got a reply from Archers about the fuzzy rivets - I used their louvres on my trolley and they were crisp and clearly printed..... from the picture you posted those rivets look a bit out of register. Best regards David Hi David Thanks for the nice comment Yes it appears these are out of register but I have had very good service from Archer in the USA who have promised to post out some hand picked replacements. Cannot ask for more than that can you ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePurplePrimer Posted June 27, 2014 Author Share Posted June 27, 2014 I Managed to get quite a bit done last night and at last I think I can see this coming together and I am happy enough I think. I have added some sandboxes at the front and some toolboxes near the cab ( I am hoping one toolbox gets used mainly for putting sarnies in and is not a sign of poor reliability ). I added a reversing rod ( this needs a rivet added ) and on the other side some pipework gubbins. I have been using a mild solvent glue on all the thin styrene but wanted the skirt inspection hatches to look battered, so I tried a very aggressive solvent to try and make them a bit wrinkly - like they are well used and worn - I think I have overdone it though, but I wont know for sure until I get some primer on it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePurplePrimer Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 It now is all one colour even if that is just grey and I can see what I have got even with the cab roof loose like it is - that will do for me. I feel it has captured the basic proportions I was after. I am supposed to be cutting the grass now - maybe I should start on the handrails instead ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePurplePrimer Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Well the handrails are done but not fitted yet ( ie not glued ) . I am not sure when I will fit them. It will be hard to spray I think with them in place and I am worried about scratching the paint if I add them after and of course the risk of glue marks. I am thinking I might fit them before paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted June 29, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29, 2014 Hi I attach things like this using varnish then you don't get glue marks. Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGRL Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 I do not like Pug bashes but well done, this is a good one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePurplePrimer Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 I spent a few hours on this again last night. The small parts seems to be taking a long time - I suspect every loco build is like that. I blackened the brass bits in case they get chipped once painted. I decided to fit it all now except for the side handrails - this is loose but the knobs are glued. I set out not to buy bits and bobs if I could avoid it and where I did use bought in parts to limit the range of them as much as I can. To this aim I used a handrail knob, some styrene for a disc and some 0.45mm brass rod soldered to make a smokebox dart - I squished the brass rod to give the handles a tapered shape - happy enough with this. Not as happy with the rivets I used for the front and rear buffer beams. I thought larger ones would look fine but decided to start on the rear just in case - once prime these looked HUGE - but it was too late to easily fixed so I sanded them back a little and used smaller ones for the inner rows - I used the same smaller ones on both rows on the front - still unsure on these. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Rob - looking really good, rivets are ok, still like to see a sheet metal roof on it though...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyJH Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Nice looking loco Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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