hayfield

A truly sorry state of affairs which everyone is a looser

Not had a chance to speak with Phil recently, and it seems he has his hands full so distractions may interrupt resolving them. Just a case of bearing with him a bit as he gets a grip on what,s happening. Knowing Phil he will iron out these teething problems

Thanks very much, had a look on their website and it looks like theirs. Someones bound to want to have a go and several options re the chassis available

I bought a lot off eBay which was a loco and some parts, in said lot is an etched LMS 4F with a resin firebox, boiler and smoke box, the etched chassis has inside motion within the frames. The tender looks to be etched brass, the cab may be nickle silver Please can anyone tell me the maker of the kit please, the previous owner has written Midland Fowler, but my knowledge of things LMS is very limited. The previous owner tried to refurbish the loco, but several parts have come un-soldered and they managed to break one of the frames, I bought it for the motor, gearbox and wheels, so intend to sell the kit as a restoration project and wish to give an accurate description Thanks

On the two or three times I have had an issue with an eBay purchase paid by Paypal the problems were all resolved within days, this was when eBay owned Paypal though

Are the remaining moulds any good? if so and the business folds might be an opportunity for someone

Giz Our roof has a 12 degree pitch, we had a single story extension built 3 meters out and needed this shallow pitch to keep the top of the roof below the windows. The building inspector explained the importance of smooth tiles to stop such ingress when its blowing a gale and raining at the same time. Our roof faces south and the prevailing weather is from the south west. Good to know the building regs are there for a reason and work As I said, wrong tiles and may be not overlapping each other enough. I could be wrong but I think a local builder said these tiles will work on shallower roofs than ours

You are quite right about paying the correct money for the job, on the other hand if you can employ the tradesman directly this can be beneficial. But that does not mean using the cheapest person as this can end up being the costliest route

Giz May not be the roof pitch but the wrong tiles, our errant builder who quoted for smooth tiles then started to put cheaper ones on the roof. And or they do not overlap sufficiently. Happily for us it got sorted out and the roof is dry

One thing that may shake up both trading standards and Worldpay is if all those affected joined together and contacted both groups with their complaints against this person. An RMWeb Group in what I think is called a Class Action

How did you pay for the items ? There is a thing you can use on both debit and credit cards (under £100) called charge back. It will be worth while contacting the company which you used to paid for the item, I would expect the likes of Visa and Mastercard to be a bit concerned about possible future issues Another avenue is trading standards may be interested, especially about abusing the distance trading rules Did you pay him as a sole trader or a limited company

And according to the Sheriffs are coming program, the sheriffs cannot enter a domestic property by force, either by going through an open door or being invited. Can make forcible entry only on business premises. No idea if he is going to shows now, if so inform the bailiffs of where and when

Saw a lot on eBay, 4F I think, seemed of etched brass (been stripper of paint) construction but had been dismantled and the chassis had been damaged. Anyway there were a set of (20 mm) Romfords, a Mashima motor and a Highlevel gearbox. The owner said he tried to refurbish the loco. Well at £30 inc postage thought the parts were well worth it and could sell the loco. Then remembered I have a compensated EM gauge chassis with a Mashima motor and gears Then as just a passing thought there was a K's Terrier, sadly an older version with the better motor and wheels as I want to EM one but feel the chassis is far more valuable to some one else with a more modern chassis with knackered wheels and motor. Still only £24 inc postage and I do have a spare Nucast chassis, I do have some Romfords in the wheel box and K's mk 1 & 2 motors in the spares box, the loco is too badly built and painted as is but I find its better to build around the chassis. As for paint stripping, find either paint stripper or caustic soda work well, but the American restorers seem to freeze metal which shrinks and sheds the paint, anybody tried this or is it just harder metal that shrinks enough

This happened to a friend of mine, so he somehow took a charge over the property. This meant the owner could do nothing (sell, re-mortgage etc)unless with the agreement of my friend, got his money back eventually.

Having done this at my last house, do not scrimp on the insulation. My garage was attached to the house and had the boiler in it, had I been staying I would have fitted a radiator in the room running off the central heating, so much cheaper to run than electric heaters. Having said this it is also a great selling point for a usable outside space. One other aspect is security, again do not scrimp

Thinking aloud, if a problem occurs just keep the door in place (perhaps sealing it up) and build an internal wall. Providing you do not make it habitable I cannot see its a problem. Many people torn their garages/outbuildings into workshops. The only issue being changing the door to a wall.

Chris if the garage is an older one and has no damp course, what is the procedure ?

Probably me miss-reading the post as usual. I can totally accept the reasoning behind the enthusiast wanting to run their layout in a prototypical manner, I cannot argue against this on any grounds However having been involved in a finescale show where the general public attended in as many numbers as the finescale modelling brigade, the show manager (of many years standing) would ask exhibitors to where possible to keep locos running, also one layout which was a fiddle yard to fiddle yard format several years later returned as an oval. When asked about the change replied, easier to operate (especially for 2 day shows), less operators required, and that the paying public seemed to prefer it. In fact a non scenic bend which was clearly visible had as many viewers as the scenic side, as a perfect place to observe (and photo) and admire the stock

Dinner followed by a trip to the local for some scrumpy !!

Same here, always been treated exceptionally well by those on duty.

Firstly I thought the layout was not at a show but at the preserved railway, run by the volunteers Secondly at most shows (especially local ones) the paying public like to see trains moving, modellers quite often like seeing the same loco pass several times as they wish to absorb the model making, rather than see a glancing glimpse of the train go by. Or ask for the train to stop so a photo can be taken Other layouts where operators are few often have a train running round a few times, whilst they prepare something else or just have a break I accept that there are those who like to see everything as it was, or run in a prototypical manor. The skill of the layout operator is to please all

It depends on who the layout is aimed at plus operators available, if the timetable was adhered to how many trains/movements per day, not many I would guess. If you are looking at the casual visitor and or children then trains moving is what they want to see, They are stuck between a rock and hard place especially if operators are scarce, or not model railway enthusiasts .

Tim I find that the crossings either go together first time or you spend ages adjusting I made a simple jig from some scrap ply and a piece of straight Ali, which holds the Vee (with 2 pieces of shim soldered under it) against the bar so the first wing rail can be soldered in line with the crossing Hope these photos may assist, a simple jug from bits which were in the scrap box

Back to my earlier question, what is the safest solvent to use on the Peco 7 mm timbers so not to affect a curl once the solvent has dried. What about Humbrol Liquid Poly ?

Not being a chemist I am not in a position to argue about the finer points, other than pass on others thoughts/observations/knowledge from other threads. Never used what was/is sold as MEK-PAK in the old days for track building, apparently the new version of MEK-PAK is not as good as Butanone for sticking plastic chairs to plywood timbers and sleepers Perhaps where the difference is not MEK that we were/are using but MEK-PAK ?