hayfield

John I am surprised the chair jaws broke, with both 4 & 7 mm chairs I prepare the rail ends by filing them to make sliding the chairs on easier. Perhaps the solvent weakens the plastic after its been applied, may sound stupid were you using code 125 or code 145 rail? As for the solvent, most plastic solvents will work with plastic to plastic. Both Butanone and the older formula MEK may be too aggressive and a less aggressive solvent may be preferable. As for plastic to ply joints, Butatone is far superior than many other aggressive solvents, you need to melt the plastic into the grain of the wood. I have no idea if it melts the plastic more or it takes longer to evaporate, what I do know if you are re-sticking a chair back any solvent is fine as the ply has plastic dissolved into the grain of the wood

Had a look in my loft but sadly came up with a blank, I have 4 Terriers but they may not have come in their original boxes. I do have a set of instructions for a K's coal tank, whilst an 0-6-2 with the exception of the rear bogie, the chassis construction is much the same. It is the earlier 70 series which has pre-quartered wheels and a double ended metal motor (mk 2 I think). The 80 series used plastic centred wheels with the axle holes being a D shape (to assist quartering) and all but the earliest kits came with the single ended plastic HMP2 motor.With the exception of fitting the wheels to the axles the construction is similar. In the absence of any other replies happy to scan and send

To be quite honest the instructions as such were just an exploded diagram, and any 6 wheel instruction would surface. Depending on which version (wheels and motor altered) screw the frames together, bolt the motor to the chassis, make the pickups, fit them and solder to the motor. I will have a look in the loft (all models packed away as having a new railway room built) to see what I have Normally if the wheels and motor are the newer plastic versions might be worth swapping them for better quality ones

Tim I converted a Keyser chassis to EM gauge using 40 thou black plasticard, think it was a basic one where the frame was drilled with 1/8 holes rather than bushes I cut the plasticard to size, stuck one side to the side of the chassis, once set I drilled through the plasticard using the holes in the brass chassis as a guide, once done repeated on the other side. Very quick and accurate, 30 thou might give a bit more movement side to side just measure the width of the chassis, then subtract the back to back and a bit for side ways movement Just had a check, an etched EM chassis has a width of 13.7 mm. A K's chassis 11.6 mm. Had no problems with the K's 57xx going through A5's The other trick with a k's loco is to put 2 x 1 mm washers between the frames and spacers But for propriety models a lot of cutting the details off the sides will be required

That's the first English test I have ever passed, Phew!!

Next they will be claiming "as used by Mr Barniar" or "by royal warrant to Mrs Merkel" Or "Buy now and beat the tariffs"

Thanks all, was going to have a look in Poundland type shops and others which may sell cake decorations. There are three of us, the basic structure has been thought of, but the other area is lights and decorations up for discussion

Before I reading a few posts on here, I thought the DJH kits were the top of the range within whitemetal loco kits, the kits being highly detailed scale models. I can understand that going back into the 60's when loco bodies were adapted to fit existing RTR chassis, certain models had the wrong wheelbase, Also the much maligned Keyser kits which in some cases like the 14xx where the footplate was too short, but its a surprise given the reputation of this range to find these issues

I thought the wheels and gear wheel were firmly fitted?

Three of us have been asked by the local Church to have a Christmas tree with trains running through the branches in their decorated Christmas tree weekend, now on the hunt for N, 00 and 0 gauge Father Christmases, likely to be narrow gauge stock

A great bit of kit bashing, like the idea of changing the motor and a Highlevel gear box is so much superior to the old Keyser gears. Looking at the kit it seems you have the older style of wheels, how easy was it changing the gear wheel ? Thankfully Keyser made thousands of kits, many of which were either not made or poorly made. The latter catagory can sometimes be snapped up quite cheaply, normally easy to both strip off the paint and un-stick the parts. With a bit of effort many pleasurable hours can be spent rebuilding ans adding additional detail. One word of warning is the problem with the newer D type wheels (plastic spokes) and HMP2 motors (plastic bodies) Both of which often require replacing You can sometimes pick up a well made items for peanuts, I just bought a very well built Adams Radial tank with Romford wheels but no motor, easy fix to fit a motor and pickups

Gary This put a big smile on my face this morning, how long will it take our friends the other side of the channel take to realise its fake H0 . One thing having cod wars with the Icelantics but track wars with the EU is another game totally. Mr Barnier will go spare that they are getting less sleepers per meter. First fake news from the UK now Fake H0, next we will be making better Champagne (some say we do already)

If the track is being stuck down then the Exactoscale plastic fishplates are fine, as are the metal version, these metal ones are much stronger but do not insulate. In my opinion these look better as they do not have the rail joiner underneath

So we have H0 being H0 Then H0 being H0/00 But now we have 00 But then again we have 00 being H0 So which ones are the Known, and which are the unknown, followed by the known unknown, finally we have the unknown unknown I think I am off to model GN15 which I guess is an unknown known unknown

Where are the chairs?

Simon Which solvent have you used please

Tim it starts off at the tip at 45 degrees and is at 90 degrees at the end of the plaining, just makes the transition of the wheels smoother

Captain The instructions I received from the society stand was to file the backs flat first, then file the heads off, then finish off with a Swiss file (rail in a solid (thick metal) piece. Agree to chamfer the head from the tip at 45 degrees to upright at the end of the plaining, then round the tip, finish off with very fine emery paper. Each to the method that works for them

Just a quick heads up as I have not seen it mentioned, went last year and was a good family show with plenty of nice refreshments available http://chelmsford-and-district-mrc.webs.com/chelmsfordexhibition.htm The Chelmsford and District MRC has a show on today *(21/10/18) We look forward to seeing you at our 34th Annual Exhibition To be held at the St. John Payne School, Patching Hall Lane, Chelmsford , Essex, CM1 4BS, United Kingdom. On the 21st October 2017

Unless you wish to try out scenic techniques, does it need buildings and scenery ?

Tim Good to see some progress, took me a while to fathom out the correct way of using the switch blade jigs ( until told differently I filed the head first) but now they certainly are easier to make

Not only will it be a good practice ground building the trackwork, but will double up a a test track for building and servicing stock

The uni-frog is a great idea which seems to cover both camps of live and dead frogs, plus the switch rails being bonded to the stock rails electrically. Top marks for innovation which saves duplication within the range. I am very interested in the turnouts, but for me the wrong gauge

My daughters youngest step daughter has met(and worked with) with Mr Packham during a charity event, most enlightening for her Plus my wife watched the program which she found very interesting and informative.

Is there not a saying " Do not let the facts ruin a good story" What are we going to do once they are released ?